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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

The problem:
I have several implements such as a cart, an aerator and a dethatcher. These were left over from my 445 and did not fit onto my 1026R after I installed an Imatch onto the 3 point hitch. I love the Imatch, by the way. The problem with the cart is the tongue is too short to reach the tractor towplate. The problem with the aerator is its hydraulic cylinder would hit the Imatch in a tight turn. The problem with the dethatcher is the adjusting lever would hit the Imatch in a turn and pop it into the deepest setting.

The solution:
I found a 26" drawbar (catagory 2) that fits onto the Imatch almost perfectly and does not work off. It will be a perfect fit once I add a bushing to each pin that fits into the 2 lower hooks of the Imatch.

The test:
Yesterday, I hooked up my dethatcher to the drawbar and set the lever to the deepest setting. That way, I can control the depth of the tines by raising or lowering the Imatch. Raising the Imatch all the way up lifts the tines completely off the grass and the dethatcher roles on its wheels in this "transport" mode. No need to monkey with that manual lever on the dethatcher anymore. I'm considering cutting the lever off and putting a bolt and nut where the locking pin is. An interesting side-benefit of the drawbar is that it pivits so when I raise the Imatch all the way up, the tongue of the dethatcher remains square in the drawbar even at that sharp, upward angle.

My plug aerator was converted to hydraulic operation many years ago so, for that implement, I'll just hook it up to the drawbar and continue to use the hydraulic cylinder (via the SCV joystick) to control depth.

When I try hooking up my JD cart to the drawbar, I'm assuming that I will be able to actually dump the cart by raising the 3 point hitch all the way up. So my cart's dump feature will now be mechanical instead of manual.

Drawbar details:
I found the 26" drawbar at a local farm and home supply store. It cost about $40. The 26" is the length minus the pin on either end so the overall length is more like 31" but it's called a 26" drawbar. It's a catagory 2 but a catagory 1 would work even better as it would have smaller holes for hooking up the implements to it. Like I said, I'm going to buy a couple of bushings to make the pins fit a little nicer on the Imatch hooks.

Summary:
If you have a new 1023E/1026R with Imatch and you're trying to figure out the best way to attach your tow-behind implements; I strongly recommend considering the 26" drawbar added to the Imatch.
 
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I do the same thing for my trailer plow. The nice part about the drawbar for the plow is the ability to move the plow to the left or right of center instead of adjusting the tires to the plow. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Are you guys talking about the thing that looks like a big piece of flat metal with a bunch of holes in it and a pin on each end to fit into the iMatch hooks? I think I've seen them as TSC and I was wondering what they would be a good use for. I am working on a wagon to tow behind my 2520 and I was wondering how I would handle going up and down hills with it and not wrecking the tongue. It sounds like one of these drawbars would be the ideal solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you guys talking about the thing that looks like a big piece of flat metal with a bunch of holes in it and a pin on each end to fit into the iMatch hooks? I think I've seen them as TSC and I was wondering what they would be a good use for. I am working on a wagon to tow behind my 2520 and I was wondering how I would handle going up and down hills with it and not wrecking the tongue. It sounds like one of these drawbars would be the ideal solution.
Andy,

Yes, it's a heavy bar with a series of holes across it and it has a round pin at each end for setting it on the Imatch hooks. The bar will pivot on the Imatch so the relative position of the wagon tongue to the drawbar would never change ... even when you go up a sharp incline.
 
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I think I'm going to pick one up. I have been wondering how I'm going to prevent the tongue from bending for a week now and this should solve that problem.
Thanks for the tip!!
 

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5 posts and not one picture?

:ttiwwp:
 

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I already have one of the 26" bars the OP recommends. Now when I finally get my Imatch next week, I'll have another use for it!

Thanks!
 

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thanks for the info. I have similar attachments that I was wondering how I was going to use with my 1026R. My IMatch quick hitch just came in today at my dealer, so I guess I'll go looking for that 26" drawbar at the TSC store.

pics would be great...
 

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Brian,

TSC has a Cat 1 drawbar (the one you show) and a Cat 2 drawbar that is a bit beefier. Any reason to go with the Cat 2 version, or is the Cat 1 plenty strong enough for use on a 2520?
 

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If the Cat 2 drawbar is the same legnth, I would go Cat 2 and get Cat 2 to Cat 3 bushings for the end. But with that said, I am pulling a 3/14 plow with this and its all my 4520 with weights and 4wd can do to keep it going 3.5 mph when it burried in the ground. I think this is strong enough, but I know you probably could bend it if you were to jerk on it with a truck trying to pull the tractor out of a mud hole (not its intended purpose). So if you use it as intended, it more than enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Guys,

Okay, I'm a little slow to the draw when it comes to shooting pictures but I finally attached a few to this thread. Notice the bushing that adapts the catagory 2 drawbar to the hook of the Imatch. This bushing is catagory 2 inside diameter and 1 and 7/16" outside diameter.

The only difference between the cat 1 and cat 2 drawbars is the diameter of the ends and the thickness of the bar itself. The implement holes are the same size in both drawbars. The cat 2 costs a little more but you only need to buy one set of bushings whereas with the cat 1 drawbar, you'll likely need 2 sets of bushings.
 

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Guys,

Okay, I'm a little slow to the draw when it comes to shooting pictures but I finally attached a few to this thread. Notice the bushing that adapts the catagory 2 drawbar to the hook of the Imatch. This bushing is catagory 2 inside diameter and 1 and 7/16" outside diameter.

The only difference between the cat 1 and cat 2 drawbars is the diameter of the ends and the thickness of the bar itself. The implement holes are the same size in both drawbars. The cat 2 costs a little more but you only need to buy one set of bushings whereas with the cat 1 drawbar, you'll likely need 2 sets of bushings.

I want to copy your drawbar idea for the imatch. I love this idea. I'm new to the 1025r family so looking for nice ways to pull things and I have found it from your post. Looks like stuff I could buy at any tractor supply store. What all did you use here to make this work if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks for your help.
Travis
 

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Guys,

Okay, I'm a little slow to the draw when it comes to shooting pictures but I finally attached a few to this thread. Notice the bushing that adapts the catagory 2 drawbar to the hook of the Imatch. This bushing is catagory 2 inside diameter and 1 and 7/16" outside diameter.

The only difference between the cat 1 and cat 2 drawbars is the diameter of the ends and the thickness of the bar itself. The implement holes are the same size in both drawbars. The cat 2 costs a little more but you only need to buy one set of bushings whereas with the cat 1 drawbar, you'll likely need 2 sets of bushings.
I did much of the same thing but added washers on each end to reduce the 'free-play'. I have wondered if it's thoroughly safe to tow my trailer since the drawbar tilts, but I've had no issues with a 5'x8' trailer loaded w/firewood. I always connect the safety chains just in case.
iMatch w:DrawBar.jpg
 
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I did much of the same thing but added washers on each end to reduce the 'free-play'. I have wondered if it's thoroughly safe to tow my trailer since the drawbar tilts, but I've had no issues with a 5'x8' trailer loaded w/firewood. I always connect the safety chains just in case.
View attachment 51282

Marlin, if you have issues with the draw bar rotating, add the top link mount such as this one. I use this to move a 30' travel trailer around my property. It weighs around 6500 lbs. I bought this one from Ballard Fabrication . It works great.
 

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Guys,

Okay, I'm a little slow to the draw when it comes to shooting pictures but I finally attached a few to this thread. Notice the bushing that adapts the catagory 2 drawbar to the hook of the Imatch. This bushing is catagory 2 inside diameter and 1 and 7/16" outside diameter.

The only difference between the cat 1 and cat 2 drawbars is the diameter of the ends and the thickness of the bar itself. The implement holes are the same size in both drawbars. The cat 2 costs a little more but you only need to buy one set of bushings whereas with the cat 1 drawbar, you'll likely need 2 sets of bushings.
You are probably not going to be happy with those snap lock retainers. I'd get roll pins instead. I've had those snap locks fail on 3 pt implements with the quick hitch.
 

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I did much of the same thing but added washers on each end to reduce the 'free-play'. I have wondered if it's thoroughly safe to tow my trailer since the drawbar tilts, but I've had no issues with a 5'x8' trailer loaded w/firewood. I always connect the safety chains just in case.
View attachment 51282
I purchased a drawbar at TSC for pulling my landscape trailer and boat around the yard before my tractor was delivered. While going over the setup upon delivery, the tech seen the drawbar and asked what I was using it for. He said not to use that for any ball'ed trailer tongues due to it having a history of bending and/or damaging the tongues. Never tried it and instead took it back and settled on http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1X6F9Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 instead. That so far has done what I needed when used with a 2" receiver.
 

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Marlin, if you have issues with the draw bar rotating, add the top link mount such as this one. I use this to move a 30' travel trailer around my property. It weighs around 6500 lbs. I bought this one from Ballard Fabrication . It works great.
Does your Ballard Fabrication vertical support have enough clearance to pass the iMatch top hook?
 
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Does your Ballard Fabrication vertical support have enough clearance to pass the iMatch top hook?
I'm afraid I don't know "J", I only use mine on the three point hitch.
 

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I afraid I don't know "J", I only use mine on the three point hitch.
I was asking because I purchased a similar support that looks identical and the opening is too small for the iMatch top hook. I have to manually lift it up, drop it over the hook, and then wiggle the bottom bushings into place.
 
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