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Had my first experience detaching / attaching implements today without an iMatch (these implements are not iMatch compatible). Just curious if anyone is aware of a video and or other instruction method with pictures that shows the process for attaching? Adjusted, removed about 10 things before I could get a correct fit. Also dealt with the PTO arm never being positioned correctly as I was swinging (having my shins broken) the implement into place. Does anyone ever use an engine hoist or something like that to make things easier?
 

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I am not sure what you are trying to attach but I have my non QH compatible equipment on dolly carts. My box blade and ballast box, although set up for QH, are not fully back up and go. Having them on wheels just makes it easier to move around and line up. I have found before I had a QH, opening up the arms as wide as possible made it easier, then I would tighten them back down to limit the side to side action.
I fought my 3pt blower for 4 years before I got a QH.
 

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There really is no easy way if the implement is heavy and on the ground. A long pry bar (5' or 6' long) is about the most useful tool I have found. Also if you could set the implement on a pallet(s) or logs can help.

This is a good reason to make all your implement iMatch compatable. Even if you are like me and have no metal fabrication skills or tools it can usually be done if taken to a welding shop. If you start a thread with an impliment and your goal I'm sure you will get some help/direction to modify them.

I struggled with these things for years but just bulled things into place. Now no longer able to bull anything the iMatch has been a gift of sorts.
 

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I find with these little tractors there's a very small amount of wiggle room between the implement and tractor. You have to be pretty much spot on with the alignment.

IF you are in a safe level location, leave the tractor in neutral and rock it forwards and back when attaching the implement. Also while I LOVE the lower arm stabilizers, they are a PITA if one need additional room to move an arm in or out, it's not a bad system, just really slow to adjust.

I HATE sore shins....
 
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There really is no easy way if the implement is heavy and on the ground. A long pry bar (5' or 6' long) is about the most useful tool I have found. Also if you could set the implement on a pallet(s) or logs can help.

This is a good reason to make all your implement iMatch compatable. Even if you are like me and have no metal fabrication skills or tools it can usually be done if taken to a welding shop. If you start a thread with an impliment and your goal I'm sure you will get some help/direction to modify them.

I struggled with these things for years but just bulled things into place. Now no longer able to bull anything the iMatch has been a gift of sorts.
Another thing you could try is obtain some telescopic draft links. That way, it makes it way easier to hook up when the i match is off.
 

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Another thing you could try is obtain some telescopic draft links. That way, it makes it way easier to hook up when the i match is off.
It should be against the law to sell a tractor without extendable draft arms,,, :flag_of_truce:

I can hook up this mower in under 5 minutes, by myself,,, because the arms extend.



That mower CAN NOT be moved with a 5 foot bar,,, period.

I thought I died and went to heaven the first time I extended the lower arms,,, WOW!! :thumbup1gif:
 

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This might not be the right way or the wrong way, but it's my way. This works for stuff like my disc and box scraper, but might not be the best idea for all implements. I back the tractor up as even as I can and hook up the top link first. I then shorten or extend it until the non adjustable lift arm (or which ever one is lowest) is on the pin. I then keep adjusting the top link back and forth as needed while I keep steady inward pressure on the lift arm and it slide right on and pin it. The top link will then move the implement where it's even on the other arm and then I repeat the process. I hardly ever need to adjust the tilt and can just lift the arm to height if needed unless it's on really uneven ground. I never had anything bend or break doing it this way and I've been doing it for years, but I also keep a hammer on the tractor. Most important is keep a cool head and be safe, machines are very unforgiving.

Check out Tractor Mike on youtube, he has some pretty good videos.
 

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I line up the draft arm holes and pins and always attach the low side implement pin first then raise the 3PTH until the implement high side pin is lined up. Hope this makes sense.
 

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Slight variation

This might not be the right way or the wrong way, but it's my way. This works for stuff like my disc and box scraper, but might not be the best idea for all implements. I back the tractor up as even as I can and hook up the top link first. I then shorten or extend it until the non adjustable lift arm (or which ever one is lowest) is on the pin. I then keep adjusting the top link back and forth as needed while I keep steady inward pressure on the lift arm and it slide right on and pin it. The top link will then move the implement where it's even on the other arm and then I repeat the process. I hardly ever need to adjust the tilt and can just lift the arm to height if needed unless it's on really uneven ground. I never had anything bend or break doing it this way and I've been doing it for years, but I also keep a hammer on the tractor. Most important is keep a cool head and be safe, machines are very unforgiving.

Check out Tractor Mike on youtube, he has some pretty good videos.
I do something similar except I hook up one lift pin first, always the one closest to the tractor. Then the top link. Then I can shorten the top link to slide the implement or tractor together for the other lift pin. That works pretty well except for the Bush Hog when the tail wheel isn't straight. Then instead of sliding, it wants to pivot. If I'm thinking, I'll straighten out the tail wheel first. . .

I absolutely agree that extendable lift arms are great. The 790 is the first tractor in a very long time that I've had without them. I may convert one to extend before it's all over.

Treefarmer
 

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I keep my box blade on a home made dolly.. Just an old skid and I screwed swivel wheels to the bottom.. When I need it I just wheel it over to the back of the tractor and hook it up.. Used to do the same with my ballast box till I got a quick hitch.. But honestly.. Any impement I get I'm just gonna make a dolly for it.. Incidentally.. I thought I was gonna hate hooking up my new 60" finish mower every time I did loader work and needed to switch over for mowing, but it's actually really easy.. I have the quick hitch adapter that came with the mower, but now that I've done it a few times.. I don't need it.. It takes all of 5 mins..
 

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I'm new to this whole tractor thing and the only implement I have hitched up to my 3 pt is a 74" flail mower. It weighs about 900-100lbs. I back up to the implement, raise or lower the lower lift arms and get at least one lined up pretty good. I put a pin in that one and raise or lower the arms again or move tractor if required to put in the 2nd pin. Once those pins are in I raise or lower the implement till I can get the top link in. It has taken me no more than 2-3 minutes at this point. Then I slide in the PTO shaft. That is the hardest part. The shaft is relatively heavy. I have found the I just keep trying to shove it on the shaft. If it does not go I turn it about 10-15 degrees and try again. I keep doing that till it goes. All in all about 5 minutes at most. No hammers or pry bars. Same for taking it off.
It helps to do very small adjustments lower or raising the arms and being able to move the tractor very slightly forward or back. Finesse is the name of the game.
 

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Do I have to start making,,, and marketing these bars to you guys?? :dunno:

The shipping would be the killer,,,, :lol:

 

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Do I have to start making,,, and marketing these bars to you guys?? :dunno:

The shipping would be the killer,,,, :lol:

:lolol:Albert--best thing u can do for urself is buy a quick hitch, once all ur attachments are i-match-ur never gonna look back. cadplans-i bet u could sell them to some guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A big hammer and a crow bar. Don't be afraid to use them. I used to struggle with the pins in my non iMatch compatible tiller. A hammer was the solution. No more sore hands, I just pop them out now.

Many thanks for the responses. I think that modifying to make the implements iMatch compatible is the way to go. Also, I like the idea of having the implements on some type of palette with casters.
 

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Do I have to start making,,, and marketing these bars to you guys?? :dunno:

The shipping would be the killer,,,, :lol:

Great idea but with open pins like that I don't have a problem, it's the tiller that's the problem and that bar won't work. :banghead: On the tiller the lift arms have to go between 2 steel plates and the pin slid through 1 plate, then the lift arm and then the other steel plate. All this and to make it even better I have a spacer that has to go on it too in between there. Lots of fun. :nunu:
 

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I happened to get a pic of my extendable 3 point hitch arms yesterday,,,
while taking pics of my new tires,,,

Lift the lever and the arm will extend up to 6 inches;



After connecting,, just back up the tractor, the extension will slide back into locked position. :yahoo:
 

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Wish they were green

I happened to get a pic of my extendable 3 point hitch arms yesterday,,,
while taking pics of my new tires,,,

Lift the lever and the arm will extend up to 6 inches;



After connecting,, just back up the tractor, the extension will slide back into locked position. :yahoo:
I wish they were green and on my 790. We have basically the same arms on the 784 and 986. Life is much better when you can slide them a few inches as necessary. IMO, they should be standard on all tractors especially smaller ones due to the minimal space available with the smaller tractors. On the other hand, I can move the smaller implements by hand. Not an option with the bigger stuff.

Treefarmer
 

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I happened to get a pic of my extendable 3 point hitch arms yesterday,,,
while taking pics of my new tires,,,

Lift the lever and the arm will extend up to 6 inches;



After connecting,, just back up the tractor, the extension will slide back into locked position. :yahoo:
Wish they made them for the 1 series. :bigthumb:
 
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