[Cmpeter1]

I took my deck off a few months ago to use the tractor at the hunting club. Had all the parts lifted up and in the locked position. Go to reconnect it today, and everything lines up except the autoconnect coupler.

The only thing I can figure is the rod the auto connect coupler connects to is bent, and its aimed the connector a little to the right, and it needs to be a little to the left. If I try to move the deck over to line up the coupler, then one of the lift arms ends up outside the tabs on the deck.

Basically the auto connect coupler misses the connector on the deck and then rides up over it.

I was going to see if I could look at the part online, however I don't see it.....

Thoughts or suggestions?

I honestly believe I should be employed as a product durability tester. If there is a way to break something, I will find it. And its not that I am rough, I just use my stuff....

 

[ClydeLogan]

Which part is bent?

 

[Cmpeter1]

I think the back rod on the arm of part 28. The tabs on the coupler that have the 3 bolts in them have a hole in them and the rod goes though that hole and then it goes out and has a nut on each side. Either way, if its that one or the one above it, those are straight and mine is not.

I really do not remember hitting anything either. And there isn't any junk stuck up in the coupler that would tend to indicate I have.

 

[ClydeLogan]

Part #28 is BLV10736, the lift arm. If it is bent you could remove it and try to straighten it. It is among the easier things on the tractor to remove and replace, in my opinion. I had to replace mine because the 4 straps LVU29616 had almost worn through the lift arm. The 4 straps and the lift arm together were approximately $400. I ordered them from GreenFarmParts with the 5% GTT discount code.

This is what mine looked like. Not bent, but worn enough so things didn't line up properly.

The lift arm current price from GreenFarmParts is $302.50. Unfortunately it is only sold as a kit which includes a pair of draft arm brackets, which I didn't need, but now own a spare set.

My tractor is a 1025R. I am thinking they are likely the same parts for a 1026R, since I think the 1025R was a 1026R basically downgraded by 1 HP to meet emissions standards.

 

[Cmpeter1]

I think that is it. Does that rod come out? There is a machine shop in town that can true it back for me. He did the adjuster on a jackplate for me one time that was bent.

 

[Cmpeter1]

I went and looked, and that is the part and its bent. I guess I can try to pull it off tomorrow and see if I can straighten it.

 

[kylew]

I think that is it. Does that rod come out? There is a machine shop in town that can true it back for me. He did the adjuster on a jackplate for me one time that was bent.

The rod does not come out. It's welded in. But you might still be able to get it in a vise or a press and straighten it.

 

[TomG]

Take a look at this older topic, I think it will answer some of your questions.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=37868&share_type=t&link_source=app

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Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk

 

[bpop]

Take a look at this older topic, I think it will answer some of your questions.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=37868&share_type=t&link_source=app

[/URL]


Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk

No joy, Maverick.

 

[ejb69]

They have made a few changes to the lift arms from when the one series first came out. I have a early 1026r , I noticed have quite a bit of wear on some of the lift parts. I’m somewhat surprised at this as I only put 25 to 30 or so hours a year on the mower. I may get by for a anther season or 2 , but it looks like I will have to replace a few parts in the not so distant future.

 

[ClydeLogan]

They have made a few changes to the lift arms from when the one series first came out. I have a early 1026r , I noticed have quite a bit of wear on some of the lift parts. I’m somewhat surprised at this as I only put 25 to 30 or so hours a year on the mower. I may get by for a anther season or 2 , but it looks like I will have to replace a few parts in the not so distant future.

I believe that the wear in my case (2015 1025R) came largely from leaving the 60D MMM on when not needed, added to by the lack of bushings to separate the lift arm from the straps. For many years I had problems re-attaching my mower (finally solved) so I seldom removed it. So when I was doing loader work or dragging my fields and riding arena the mower was just hanging there bouncing around, with metal on metal contact. The later developed plastic bushings (R276819) came out too late to help me, since the metal wear had already progressed enough so the two plastic bushings would not stay in place.

Now with the new lift arms and straps, the plastic bushings have not moved in more than a year, and there is no metal wear that I can see.

 

[Cmpeter1]

I very rarely use the mower deck. That's the problem. I think if I can fix it myself, I need to "engineer" a skid plate to protect the auto coupler. And really that just seems like a good idea anyways.

This past weekend was a church wide serve day, and with the torn disk I have in my back, I am limited, but I can mow grass. So I ended up just going with my flail mower, but I give up a foot with every pass compared to the mower deck.

I did, however, cut some dang grass. Even got to use the cruise control.......