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Discussion Starter #1
For my new 1025, I want to get a rear/back blade to use for some light grading, but moreso for snow.

I figured a 5'...maaaaaybe 6'.....max?

Anything I need to look for/watch out to avoid? They seem pretty simple, but figured I'd ask.

I plan to shop used.

Thanks!
 

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You will want left/ right angle, every blade has that, and I personally wouldn't buy a blade without tilt as well, especially if you are wanting to do grading. I'm not sure if pulling an offset blade is something the 1025 can do, but if so, having offset really completes the adjustability and gives you the most flexibility in use.

Since you will also be doing snow removal, get one with a replaceable cutting edge, so that you can mount a snow removal edge in the winter without having to modify the blade.

I have a 5 foot for my 2032R that I inherited, it's heavy when it's loaded. Im not sure if your 1025 will handle that , or if you might need to go a little smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I looked at getting one with the tractor, they spec'ed a 5' Frontier model at the JD dealer.

Since I'm not doing miles of dragging, a 4' wouldn't be terrible. I was just staying in the same ballpark of what the dealer was going to spec if I bought from them.
 

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I believe the width on a 1025 is around 47+ inches. If you swivel a 4' blade, it's going to end up narrower than your wheels which will leave you 2 hard packed tracks! I'd stay with the 5' and at least you stand a chance of scraping/cleaning up your tracks. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I probably should have just kept the Frontier blade in the purchase....oh well.

Worst case is I just buy it separately.
 

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I also recommend a 60" blade minimum, to cover the tire tracks when angled. I got mine used from my dealer for $300. If you're patient, you'll find a used one for a good price.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I've seen mention that the Frontier "L" models are for SCUT's to lift with more clearance when mounted on the SCUTs' limited Cat 1 hitches.

When shopping used, I'm guessing I'm looking for a somewhat shorter moldboard height/mast height?
 

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Meh... not sure that's a big deal. Of course you don't want one too big. My box blade is not an 'L' and I don't have any problems lifting that high enough. My back blade is an 'L' only because it was used. Had it not been an 'L' I probably would have bought it anyways, because of the price. I could always sell it if it didn't work out.
 

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I have a 5 ft woods blade that tilts and swivels. If I had to replace it, I would get the same thing. 4 foot would be to narrow when swiveled, 6 foot would be too wide when tilted because the low side of the tilt would be too close to the ground and dig in when I don’t want it to.
 
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740552


This is a Woods RBC 60 that I redid to John Deere theme and cleaned up. It works perfect with my 1025.
 

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When it snows up here around Boston it's very seldom that we see a snowfall where a rear blade would be practical. Why not a front quick attach blade with hydraulic angle??? And I never could figure out why people would want to either drive over the snow before moving it, or driving backwards. Makes no sense to us northern guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’m in southeastern PA.

90% (or more) of our snow events are 1-6”. Seems it’d be easy to move with a rear blade, and a hunting buddy of mine can’t tell me enough how much he loves his on his SCUT.

He runs that with the loader and when he does the parking areas he loves moving snow both forward and backward.

I do have a small amount of grading to do as well.

I thought about a loader mounted blade with hydraulic tilt. For snow it’ll be cool... but I’m pretty confident that a rear blade can do the vast majority of my snow clearing. What it can’t do I can do with the FEL. Yeah, I know that will go slower than a proper front blade.

I work in a school. If we have a ton of snow I don’t need to be in a rush to remove it because work will be from home or delayed.
 

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I have a 60" king kutter that I got a good deal on. I use it primarily for scraping the snow that the blower doesn't get off of the apron in front of the attached garage and sometimes my whole 180' driveway if it's a light snowfall. I actually wish it were a little heavier to help break through hardpack snow. I think for the 1025, a 66" which no one makes would be perfect. With a little angle on the 60" it barely covers the wheels. I sure wouldn't want to go any narrower.
 

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I had a 60 inch on the 1025R that I had and that would be the proper size for it. It was not an L model. Anything narrower and it would not wipe out your tracks when angled and you will normally have it angled for snow. Anything bigger than 60 inch is probably not a good idea. I have an 8ft hyd angle rear blade for my 4066R which is 6ft wide and it barely clears the tracks with a good angle.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm going to an estate auction on Friday (Jul 3). There's a 6' Leinbach Line back blade there that looks in really nice shape.

Not much, if any, rust. Blade looks good. Bolts holding on the cutting edge (removable) should come off without any heroic measures.

Thoughts on how high to bid on it?
 

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I have one like this
744976


It does everything..including...Sliding L or RIght.
Tilt angle all of it..everything the others don't do without UNbolting the blade.
This one is on CL..300$
They suk in that they are NOT I Match compatable but can be converted.
 

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I have a 6 ft rear blade(dearborn unit from an old ford 8n I no longer have) on my 1025,, It works great in snow, will pull 7" of snow with blade angled with no problem,,have never used it for dirt or gravel.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So for iMatch use with these older blades, is it a matter if making them a stand to hold them in place for hook up? Or is there something else that is needed?
 

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There is often a brace or some obstruction that gets in the way of the top hook when you raise the 3 point to try to pick up the implement.
 
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