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Looking for a new implement. I'd buy a frontier but can't foot that bill right now. I have a 50 horse tractor and would use the blade to fill in holes in the driveway and keep it level. Also to grade away grass and topsoil to level the ground. Is there a king kutter or other brand that is a few hundred dollars that I won't trash?
 

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I would defiantly check Craig's list. I would look every night and sure enough, I found a good deal on a 60" woods blade for $250
 

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You can get a CountyLine 6-foot blade from TSC for $380 that is rated for 45HP. It should work fine if you do not abuse it. I second what the other poster mentioned, keep an eye on Craig's list. There are some deals once in a while. Be aware you will also see a lot of rusted hulks that look like they've been salvaged from the Titanic for ridiculously high prices.
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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For any 50hp tractor that I am aware of, you need to have at a minimum of a 500lb rear blade to do ANYTHING worth while. Anything lighter and besides that it won't do much, your tractor will end up destroying it. You aren't going to find a new one that would be a good match for your tractor for a few hundred $$$.

To be perfectly honest with you, you should have a nice 8' wide blade that weighs 800lbs or more and that is going to cost upwards of $2000.

I know that that is not what you wanted to hear, but it is what it is. :empathy:
 

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For any 50hp tractor that I am aware of, you need to have at a minimum of a 500lb rear blade to do ANYTHING worth while. Anything lighter and besides that it won't do much, your tractor will end up destroying it. You aren't going to find a new one that would be a good match for your tractor for a few hundred $$$.

To be perfectly honest with you, you should have a nice 8' wide blade that weighs 800lbs or more and that is going to cost upwards of $2000.

I know that that is not what you wanted to hear, but it is what it is. :empathy:
Listen to this ^^^.

I bought one of those Tractor Supply blades for my 2010 (47HP) and destroyed it in a matter of months fixing and plowing my road.

Buy it right - buy it once.
 

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For a 50HP tractor, you are going to need an 8ft blade. Is it cat 1 or cat 2. Cat 2 blades are heavier. You may need to hang some weights off of it to make it dig better. Do you have any rear remotes? You might want to consider a hydraulic angle rear blade. I have a Frontier 8ft hydraulic angle blade and the hydraulics come pretty handy at times. Check Craigs List daily. That is where I get most of my stuff. Not all blades are created equal. Last year I bought a 8ft tandem disk at an auction. It came with a very light duty 8ft rear blade that I could nearly pick up myself. I can't do that with my Frontier blade and it probably is only classified as medium duty. Remember that when you angle the blade it becomes more narrow. My tractor is 6ft wide and with the blade fully angled, it barely covers the width of the tractor.

You might want to also consider a box blade.

Dave
 

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I agree with everyone who has said to go used and get something as heavy duty as your budget will allow.

I had (had being the key word in this situation) an 82" tractor supply back blade I had been using to grade my driveway with my little old model M (2750 pounds and barely 20 horsepower. For just skimming gravel topcoat, it worked great. One day I got the bright idea to switch out the pins to Cat 2, put the thing on my big old model G (double the weight and double the horsepower), and use it to push back the snow banks along the driveway. I should have snapped a few photos of the carnage because it was spectacular. I simultaneously snagged a stump and hit a really dense pack of snow which bent or broke everything except the 3pt pins and the bolts holding on the cutting edge. It probably didn't help that the reverse gear in a G is really fast, but I think momentum would have done the trick even if I had managed to get to the clutch before impact.

Ground engaging equipment should always have a certain degree of overkill built into it. I got a heavy duty rhino brand blade, removed the stump, and never had another issue. Yes, you could argue that the stump was the real culprit, but 'obstacles' happen.
 

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Years ago my older brother bought 2 cat1 rear blades. After wrecking them in less than 2 yrs he finally bought a cat2 it is now guessing 25 maybe 30 yrs old. Yes he has broken a few welds on it ,unlike bending the 6' blade on one and totally destroying the frame of the other .
 

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I bought a J- Bar 7-ft class 2 blade and have had to do repair on the diagonal brace to keep it from bending under load. Not sure I would recommend J-Bar. This was about $650. Tilting feature is nice.

I have an old 2440 and it's rated at 60hp, I believe.

View attachment j-bar blade.pdf
 

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One bit of advice, if possible try to avoid blades which have the mounting A-frame constructed of steel flat bars. Those styles will bend into a pretzel very easily. The first blade on my 9N was built this way and all it took to destroy it was catching a piece of ice while plowing snow.
The then purchased a blade with the mounting frame made out of a solid section of steel. In my case it was a Land Pride but others are built the same way. That blade is now 25 years old and still straight and true.


a-framea.jpg VS. triangle.jpg
 

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For any 50hp tractor that I am aware of, you need to have at a minimum of a 500lb rear blade to do ANYTHING worth while. Anything lighter and besides that it won't do much, your tractor will end up destroying it. You aren't going to find a new one that would be a good match for your tractor for a few hundred $$$.

To be perfectly honest with you, you should have a nice 8' wide blade that weighs 800lbs or more and that is going to cost upwards of $2000.

I know that that is not what you wanted to hear, but it is what it is. :empathy:
I agree, I bought a Land Pride RB3796 for my 5055E, and it's perfect. It was just under $2k, with hydraulic angle and the skid shoes. I had to shop around to find that deal, but they are out there. I'd had plenty of rear blades before, but never one with hydraulic angle. I did not know what I was missing, it wakes it 10 times more useful for leveling and everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What tractor are you using, and what class hitch does it have? I'd agree with the others, keep an eye on Craigslist and buy used.
5200. Cat. One and two.

For any 50hp tractor that I am aware of, you need to have at a minimum of a 500lb rear blade to do ANYTHING worth while. Anything lighter and besides that it won't do much, your tractor will end up destroying it. You aren't going to find a new one that would be a good match for your tractor for a few hundred $$$.

To be perfectly honest with you, you should have a nice 8' wide blade that weighs 800lbs or more and that is going to cost upwards of $2000.

I know that that is not what you wanted to hear, but it is what it is.
Right. I'll get a frontier just not right now. The driveways is a mess and it needs to be brought back under control. So a low cost one will do for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have two remotes. My boss has a frontier and so does my grandma's farm but borrowing things gets old when family ties are tense at the moment. So is the consensus that even with a king kutter blade with the solid frame not A frame I'd destroy it no matter what? I also want a single shank subsoiler so was planning on buying both at the same time. Anyone bought anything from Everything Attachments?
 

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Anyone bought anything from Everything Attachments?
I have dealt with them. They are reputable and very easy to deal with. The only negative I can think of is some of their pricing is a bit on the high side. They offer free shipping in some cases but if you check prices you will sometimes find the shipping cost is just built in to the price.

Definitely shop around. You may be able to do better with a local dealer. But, at the end of the day if you find that EA has what you need at a decent price you should find dealing with them to be a pleasant experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I found a Land Pride 5' back blade locally for $300. It's almost new. Only has one or two spots of surface rust. We run the frontier with duals on a tractor so the tractor is alot wider than the blade. Would my machine play well with this blade or would it turn it into twisted steel?
 

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Without knowing what tractor you have it's hard to say. I'd bet most machines with 50 hp at the pto will turn a 5' blade to junk.
Granted, most smaller blades are rated for less HP but there are shorter blades that can handle a decent amount of power. It's all about the mount. Land Pride and Bush Hog make a 5' blade rated for 40HP. Woods has a 5' rated for 45HP and Frontier makes a 5' blade that is rated for 60HP.

There's really no point in making a high HP 5' blade as most tractors above 40HP will have a rear tire width that is wider than that.

I always figured that given the same mount/turntable a longer blade is easier to damage as if you catch something with the end there is a lot more leverage force trying to bend/twist the mounting frame.
 

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For your tractor, you will need nothing less than a 8ft blade and it will need to be cat2. Anything cat1, you will tear up. Here is an example of what I found on Craigs List to give you an idea of what can be found there. $800 I would not go with anything less than something like this one.

Dave

https://kansascity.craigslist.org/grd/6001032033.html

8ft rear blade.jpg
 

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Without knowing what tractor you have it's hard to say. I'd bet most machines with 50 hp at the pto will turn a 5' blade to junk.
Totally agree with that, have an old 6 foot Ford blade for my 30HP IH 274.
Had to really beef up the frame and everything about it to do deep digging, pushing large logs around, etc.
Added 300lbs weight to it also.

Even with just 30HP, it's easy to overload flimsy stuff in low range, posi traction on in heavy work.
In one little screw up you got a twisted bunch of metal that you catch hell trying to straighten out.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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