[Marlin]

We are 'rebuilding' the rear deck. Boards are removed and sorted. I now have cedar 2 x 4's once again for misc project builds.

This is the only shot I have so far . . .

Rich will be reframing for 12" OC support and then putting down 17x 12' Trex deck boards.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Looks good. We are doing the same, but went with galvanized CFS framing placed 12" OC.

Project is delayed due to finding significant structural damage (rot) to the sill and subfloor in one wall section. Working on a repair plan.

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[Gizmo2]

went with galvanized CFS framing

Do you have link to this framing?

 

[coaltrain]

Nice project Marlin!

We built our deck some years ago. Mrs. C’s father was the lead and I was just a helper. When we laid the deck boards (pressure treated ) I asked if we should space them. He said no, that they would shrink and give plenty of spacing.

Now I have some rotten boards. They never did shrink and water lays on the deck. Plus the fact no air can get between them so in our humid environment they just rot. The rest of the deck - all uprights and railings etc. are still like new.

I’ve been replacing a couple boards each year. Am having a heck of a time to jam the new boards in.

I would love to just use synthetic decking boards and be done with it but would be over $1k the last time I checked a couple years ago. Can’t imagine the price today…and it’s only 15) 16’ boards or 30) 8’ boards.

But now I know that I can’t just replace the boards I guess as you guys say the synthetic boards need joists at 12” centers. Mine are 16”.

So I guess I will continue replacing boards as needed.

 

[j. white]

Do you have link to this framing?

I would like to know more about these too. I have had three different wood decks at the last three homes and finding straight floor joist material in treated wood around here just ain't happening anymore. My last deck work was redoing part of a multi-level thing at the last house. Had the original trex decking boards which were fine but in order to get the joists flat and straight enough for my liking, I had to mount them with the high side up and plane them flat. It did work out great but was extra work. I swore that if I built another deck, I would use steel "C" channel for joists but haven't looked too far into it yet.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Just google cold formed steel framing. I got it from a local commercial drywall and foundation supply house (Foundation Building Materials). I used 14ga (.068") for the girders and 16ga (0.54") for the joists.

Girders are 2pcs 2x12 studs capped with 4" track to make a 4x12 box beam.

All pieces are cut to exact length, and you pay by the lb ( lb/lf is defined). No culls. Screwed together with brackets and clips.

The framing bill for the deck was a little over $5k in 2018 for 1600sqft of deck, 12" OC. This included 2 sets of stairs as well.

Used the same technique to site build the Howe trusses for an existing pole barn to support a sagging roof. Tension member is a full 2x6 box beam made from 1ea stud and 1ea track. IIRC, each truss wound up being about $200 material cost. Impervious to the carpenter bees that ate up the previous king truss (not really a truss).

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[jthibodeau89]

We are going with 5/4 Lumberock for the decking. Mineral fiber based composite deck boards. Went to 12"OC frame so we could use the 5/4 decking. Saved $6k in decking cost for $600 in additional framing by using the 5/4 vs 2x deck boards. The advantage of mineral fiber is no organic food for mildew.

Decking is sloped 1/8" per foot away from house for drainage. Plan to collect runnoff for garden irrigation

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[jthibodeau89]

BTW, did i mention that hate wood rot? I will start a new thread with my deck construction. Didn't mean to highjack this one

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[jthibodeau89]

I purchased ftom FBMsales.com

IIRC, my studs and track were MBA, but they could have been Clark-Dietrich. Most of the clips were StrongTie. I went to their catalog and sized up the beams.

Used the same box beam structure for the 21' span for my shop mezzanine. Planned to use 2x6x8' wood joists to save some cost, but may need to reevaluate. For large span you can pre-arch the beam a little when attaching the caps.

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[Gizmo2]

I've never really understood using composite decking boards that are attached to a wood joist.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Forgot to mention that i am installing the deck boards perpendicular to the wall and sealing the gap between boards with a rubber spine inserted into edge grooves. Hence the slope away from the house.

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[Marlin]

Looks good. We are doing the same, but went with galvanized CFS framing placed 12" OC.

Project is delayed due to finding significant structural damage (rot) to the sill and subfloor in one wall section. Working on a repair plan.

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Lots of post here to comment on but I'm just too tired right now to do that. I will later. Your deck redo is incredible and expensive, but if you plan to be there another 20 years or so if will be well worth it I am sure.

I don't think we will be here that long so we took the easy way out. PT lumber and Trex deck boards. It will last long enough and look great when we sell.

So far . . .

Our starter board needs more screws from the top to secure it properly which we'll do. Otherwise, it's coming round
nicely.

We have around $600 into this so far.

More later . . .

 

[jthibodeau89]

Thank you. We do not plan to move again. I want my ashes scattered to the wind from the top of the roof.

We have 48 acres with the house on the top of one of the highest hills in the area. We knew this property was going to need some expensive repairs when we bought it as an estate sale. The 5/4 Lumberrock was about $8/sqft when i last priced it. We also plan to have stainless steel cable railing to maximize the view.

Your deck is coming along very well.


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[Marlin]

The deck is done!!

 

[jthibodeau89]

Looks great! Congratulations. Excellent job.

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[DRobinson]

Nice job, Marlin.

 

[Gizmo2]

The deck is done!!

Looks Good!

 

[Treefarmer]

Looks good. We are doing the same, but went with galvanized CFS framing placed 12" OC.

Project is delayed due to finding significant structural damage (rot) to the sill and subfloor in one wall section. Working on a repair plan.

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I personally do not like framing a deck tight to the house. When we replaced the siding on our house a few years ago, I had the contractor cut the deck loose and add posts so it's free standing with about an inch gap between the house and deck.

We've got to start thinking about replacing the deck now. Trex is tempting except for getting slick when wet. Maybe the new versions are better but the initial versions were so slick it was like ice.

 

[JDLTG]

Looks great Marlin!

@Treefarmer, our Trex deck does not get slick at all when wet. We installed it in 2016, so it’s not that old.

 

[j. white]

Marlin, I bet it feels good to walk out and see that new decking all fresh and clean. Time and money well spent.

On the trex, I installed the original trex in 2005 at my old house and mine does not get slick either. I do clean it about twice a year with deck cleaner like the Trex folk say. It keeps the mold under control since the deck is on the north side of the house. Trex and all the composite decking brands have come a long way since '05 but I have to say that the original trex still looks good after a cleaning and will look good for several months before needing another cleaning.