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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't loaded the BH up all summer. I've been watching it settle all summer also, but I didn't let it bother me....

The boom extended and has angled the deck forward. This in turn puts the hydraulic connections too far away from the tractor. I used the forks to lift it out of the ground and try to push back a little on the boom.

I got it into a position where I could get it hooked up, and I assumed I would have to re hook a couple of times while I got the deck plane with the tractor....

The controls were very close to the bracket between the ROPS, but not touching. I tweaked it just a bit, and the controls landed on the bracket. By the time I got to the key to turn it off, it had rolled itself around lifting the wheel off the ground. Of course I'm in a tight spot watching this thing move slowly out of control. I was wedged between another implement and the tractor. I had a way out if it had gone further, but still a stupid, unprepared course of action.

Started to rain, so I got the hydraulic disconnected, cleaned my shorts, and grabbed a cold one. This is going to take more planning and another day...


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Oops! :banghead:

Good to hear that nothing including you were hurt. :thumbup1gif:

This is going to be interesting to watch. :munch:
 

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I think I would pull the quick connects off the power beyond hoses to let the cylinders move. Maybe hang it by the joint between the boom and the stick and up front by the frame attach points. Going to take a couple helpers for sure.
 

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Maybe you could use the 3 pt, or the loader to lift the base of the backhoe up about a foot then use the boom controls to "relieve pressure" and letting gravity do the work allow the base to pivot back down. Once base is level with ground, put blocks under it and lower it back onto the blocks, then back up to it and hook up to it like you normally would
 
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Can you couple the male and female BH connectors together? (I would think you could) Then move boom down lever to get the boom cylinder to retract (in theory).
 

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Use a strap to lift the backhoe mainframe with your front end loader. Block it in place at the approximate installation height. Connect the tractor hydraulics and set up the stabilizers. Move the boom, dipper stick and bucket to setup the installation attitude and reinstall the BH.

In the future make sure you block the mainframe so it won't hit the deck when the stabilizers leak down. :good2:
 

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Hi FredHickory
I agree with Superglidesport
In the future make sure you block the mainframe so it won't hit the deck when the stabilizers leak down.
Also install the boom transport pins it will stop the boom moving.:thumbup1gif:
Regards John
 

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Once you get it on using the above methods, when you drop it don't use the stabilizers, keep them up, tied or whatever, they shouldn't be down. That should keep it from turning into a "Taco". Quite a few of us have built dollies for $30 or so. Most have casters for rolling it around the garage, but you could use a stationary one as well. Its easier to roll the BH to the tractor then back the tractor to the hoe...I changed this a bit but it's basically just scrap lumber and can be built with whatever you have laying around and $20 worth of casters.

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Use a strap to lift the backhoe mainframe with your front end loader. Block it in place at the approximate installation height. Connect the tractor hydraulics and set up the stabilizers. Move the boom, dipper stick and bucket to setup the installation attitude and reinstall the BH.

In the future make sure you block the mainframe so it won't hit the deck when the stabilizers leak down. :good2:
Bingo!

AND, one does not want the stabilizers DOWN during storage, hence blocking is the best idea. I left mine down for a couple of months the first time off and they RUSTED ! Keep 'em sucked up into the cylinders with chain or heavy bungees and the pivot blocked at the height of disconnect (soft ground = plenty wide blocking). The stabilizer pistons have the cheapest chrome of all JD's hydro stuff plus they tell in the manual to grease them up during storage.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Once you get it on using the above methods, when you drop it don't use the stabilizers, keep them up, tied or whatever, they shouldn't be down. That should keep it from turning into a "Taco". Quite a few of us have built dollies for $30 or so. Most have casters for rolling it around the garage, but you could use a stationary one as well. Its easier to roll the BH to the tractor then back the tractor to the hoe...I changed this a bit but it's basically just scrap lumber and can be built with whatever you have laying around and $20 worth of casters.

View attachment 225394
...You know, that was one of my projects this summer. I left the stabilizers up so I could experiment with an all-terrain cradle. But obviously I never got to it.
 

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Use a strap to lift the backhoe mainframe with your front end loader. Block it in place at the approximate installation height. Connect the tractor hydraulics and set up the stabilizers. Move the boom, dipper stick and bucket to setup the installation attitude and reinstall the BH.

In the future make sure you block the mainframe so it won't hit the deck when the stabilizers leak down. :good2:
this^^^^ is what I did. my Bh sits on gravel chips and if I don't use it enough it starts to sink. I just lift it up with the bucket an put a concrete block under the frame skids. then, if its not level enough, I hook up the hydraulics and hook it up like you would on a 2 series.
 

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this^^^^ is what I did. my Bh sits on gravel chips and if I don't use it enough it starts to sink. I just lift it up with the bucket an put a concrete block under the frame skids. then, if its not level enough, I hook up the hydraulics and hook it up like you would on a 2 series.
I ran into this problem after exactly two days of ownership. I came to the same conclusion which was to lift the BH with straps and block it up at the right height, two hours later I had it sorted out. I went very slowly as I was by myself. What would have made this a LOT easier would have been to have extension hoses for the power beyond lines so I could keep the tractor a bit away from the BH while re-orienting it to the right position for installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
We had a little calm in the rain and a little calm-down time for me. I took the process much more serious this time and didn't try to rush.

The deck was still at the forward angle position, but I tried coming in off-center to keep the controls away from the tractor when I hooked up the hydraulics. Worked out OK this time. The big problem, as it always is, is the alignment of the tractor to the BH frame. The 6-8" of forward travel you have when connected is a challenge when you have to move over side-ways an 1" or so. Coming up with a dolly that would allow me to move the BH instead of the tractor and be all-terrain is what got me in this pickle to begin with. Still haven't designed anything yet. But it's on the list.

I will, though, store the unit properly this time. I do have the bracket to repair at the tool box from the initial loading excitement. This should be motivation enough to just do things right the first time.

A few take-away's from this for me:

1. The BH is not a toy. While some will say the 1025R is a glorified lawn tractor, the BH is a serious piece of equipment. Loading it is not drive over and click. It is a physics experiment in action and reaction. If you don't know what action to take, don't get one. I can load the BH in 5-8 minutes when everything is right. When it's wrong, you had better step back and have a plan.

2. This thing will kill you in a heartbeat. Couple of missteps, no retreat path, and it will chew you up.

Everything turned out alright this time, except for the dues I have to pay repairing the toolbox bracket. Could have been much worse.

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Glad to see you figured it out. Hydraulics sometimes have a mind of their own and yes it is a physics problem all the way through. Sometime I go through what I call the Kabuki dance with my FEL on my 2210. I can only imagine what BH is like to mount/dismount. Sometimes having a Swiss Army knife for a tractor is more pain than it worth. If you learned something then the damage is just the cost of experience gained. Good luck and be safe. :greentractorride:
 

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There actually IS an easy way to align the tractor to the BH for hooking up quicker. Just before you drive away from the disconnected hoe lay a short 2X? each side of the rear wheels and drive away. When you come back for a reinstall it's a guide for alignment. (Of course you DID block the hoe up before you disconnected negating the OP's original problem.):laugh:

(Disclosure: Not MY idea, just passing it along.):bigthumb:
 

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I ran into this problem after exactly two days of ownership. I came to the same conclusion which was to lift the BH with straps and block it up at the right height, two hours later I had it sorted out. I went very slowly as I was by myself. What would have made this a LOT easier would have been to have extension hoses for the power beyond lines so I could keep the tractor a bit away from the BH while re-orienting it to the right position for installation.
On top of the other suggestions here I am going to have some extension hoses made up for the power beyond. Anyone have a guess what they should cost? Probably 3 feet would make the whole exercise a non-issue as the hoses would allow me to use the BH itself to aid in alignment/orientation.
 
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On top of the other suggestions here I am going to have some extension hoses made up for the power beyond. Anyone have a guess what they should cost? Probably 3 feet would make the whole exercise a non-issue as the hoses would allow me to use the BH itself to aid in alignment/orientation.
My guess is $100-$150 for the two 3/8" hoses and the 4 QD's required.
 
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My guess is $100-$150 for the two 3/8" hoses and the 4 QD's required.

Thanks Kenny and thanks BTW the bolt on hooks arrived in Canada very quickly and have been extremely useful.
 
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