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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I figured I would post on GTT my lawn shed project I have started a few weeks ago. My goal is to construct a 10x12 lawn shed on a stone area where the previous home owners had a shed prior to us moving in. Since this house/property is temporary, I decided to put the shed on skids so I could take it with me if I choose to when I eventually move. This project is an addition to my full-time job and parenting so updates may be somewhat infrequent, however, my goal is to have it done by May 19th.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are some photos of progress. 10x12 footprint. Stone base in the background. Walls are constructed and laying in front of base. Will be building trusses this week, and looking forward to raising it this weekend, weather permitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So the second image I would submit would preview/save upside down, so I decided to submit the second image in another post.
 

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Lookin' good Boar! You may already have this in your plans, but one suggestion I'd like to make is to put a second "sacrificial" floor on top of your plywood. Eventually, your floor is going to wear...out or through! 1 by's or 2 by's on top of the plywood can easily be replaced...or even a second layer of plywood. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's a good suggestion. I was thinking about that while putting the primary floor down. I am thinking of putting the second layer down once the thing is constructed, that way, when I need to rip it up it will be easier. Then this came to mind!

TechFloor - Home and Business Flooring | WeatherTech
 

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Boar, That stuff looks pretty good. Not knowing what you'll be doing in your shed, I do have a couple of comments for you to think about.

1. Anything you move on that floor will need to be on wheels or carried. I don't think the raised squares will allow you to slide or drag anything across it.

2. If you're going to be working in there on your knees, you're going to feel those raised squares after a few hours.

3. Spills. Gasoline spills will void your warrantee, and I'm thinking any petroleum based product will deteriorate the product. Also, liquids can seep between the joints on your tiles and damage your plywood subfloor. Poly sheeting placed on top of your plywood can prevent this though and a few strategically placed screws will hold the tiles in place.

Just my thoughts, Bob
 

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That's looking good so far! I'm looking forward to seeing the progress and seeing it finished. I'm hoping to put in something similar, but bigger, to house my implements. I'm tired of them being outside and Sweetie is tired of looking at them! :laugh:

One question - you mentioned that you're wanting to be able to move this once it's done. I think that's a good idea, but... are you sure your truck is big enough to do the job??? :unknown:

you_are_going_to_need_a_bigger_truck.jpg

:laugh:
 

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Mark, GREAT point about moving the building! Max over the road width is 8.5' (102") so a permit would be required!

Boar, Back to the drawing board! If you're intent on moving this later, don't use any nails, screw or lag bolt your sides together. Same with roof trusses and roofing. Trusses can be nail together, but attach the to your top plates with screws. Build it with a PLAN on dismantling it for moving! You may have to leave the base there, but the rest should be a legal load for a flatbed trailer. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for the feedback. Probably should of consulted GTT beforehand.

The property it will eventually be moved to is about 5 miles away (all country side roads with plenty of shoulder). Pretty laid back around here, so we'll have to see about a permit. I will have to ask around about moving buildings this size. There is a guy down the road that sells and delivers pre-constructed buildings, a lot of which are 10 ft wide. I will have to pay attention how he does it. I know he has a tilt-flatbed too to do it, but no details. I have about five years to figure it out, before we intend on moving. Worse case scenario, if I have to leave the shed, I guess I will have to leave it. I will consider bolting it together though. Likely pay off later, knowing I can disassemble it.

I think the secondary flooring is a good idea. Plywood will be the cheapest, maybe painted beforehand in an attempt to prevent liquid absorption. In my enclosed trailer, I painted the floor and ramp with deck paint with a bit a grit to it, to limit slip when wet. I have thanked myself several times for doing that, as I have seen a couple people bite it on their slick trailer ramps.

I see what your saying about the weathertechs. Good information.

As for updates, I finished three trusses yesterday and made majority of the truss 2x4 cuts. Headed to Menards this morning for more connector plates, and a few more 2x4s, as a couple of the 2x4x10s were not in an acceptable condition. I should get a few more trusses made after work today - I need 10 total. I will upload pictures of the trusses when complete.
 

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One question - you mentioned that you're wanting to be able to move this once it's done. I think that's a good idea, but... are you sure your truck is big enough to do the job??? :unknown:

View attachment 681674

:laugh:
Mark, GREAT point about moving the building! Max over the road width is 8.5' (102") so a permit would be required!
I was actually trying to make a joke about the little plastic truck in the picture being big enough to move the shed. :hide: :laugh:


BUT.... let's talk about moving the shed in 5 years. remeyer is right about the permit. I looked into this a couple of years ago when we were in the process of cleaning out my folks place. I was going to move Dad's shed to my place. In that process, I called one of the ready made shed places close to me and found out that they have what amounts to a "permanent permit" - so they don't have to jump through any hoops, but there still was a limit to how wide they could go. This guy also gave me a price of $300 to move Dad's shed (8' x 16') to my place and locate it where I wanted it. Considering that was about a 20 mile drive, I thought it was a good price! And for $300, I wasn't going to try and do it myself. Those guys have the equipment and the experience to make it look easy.

I would suggest that you contact the local shed guy to make sure that the "runners" on the bottom of your shed are spaced where his equipment can handle it. He may suggest 4 runners instead of the 3 that you have. Or, 3 may be fine for the width. But, look into that now - before you put the walls on it.
 

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I did very much the same thing a few years ago. Even with almost 5 gal. of water seal (off brand left by previous owner, but still decent stuff) on the subfloor and joists, plus paint on the floor and outside edges, I still had water rot after 3 years on the edges of the plywood. I would suggest 1x3's to cover the face (vertical) edges of the plywood. Seal and paint that; maybe even caulk.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh, yeah, I see. My son's plastic truck - yeah, not gonna cut it, lol. He loves the "construction site" I made. You will likely see more of his involvement in photos (wood pieces scattered every where, plastic toys, bikes, etc.)

I made a call to the guy who moves lawn sheds in the area. In terms of size, 10x12 was not going to be a problem to move. Price was $350 today, which I understand will likely increase when I eventually move. He did indicate I will need to add two runners 4 ft apart from the center runner in order to rest on the trailer. He also mentioned to make sure I have my top plates overlapping, which I do.

So I guess I will make another trip to Menards to grab two more 4x4s for skids. LOL, I was just THERE! At least I figured it out now rather than later. Thanks for the advice.

I do plan on putting trim over the ends to cover the plywood and I do plan on caulking.
 

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9mm, Waterseal is a good idea, BUT, I've found that it never really dries and keeps seeping into the wood fibers. Eventually, it looks like it was never treated! I've gad good luck with a sandable, primer filler...brand's not important, but Rustoleum was available. I sprayed the edges and let it sit 2 or 3 days, then spray again. I'd repeat this as much as necessary until I saw the primer staying on the surface of the wood grain. Up to this point, you can see the primer soaking in. One or 2 top coats and it stays sealed...or it has in my case(s)! If Boar does this before putting the side framing on, a couple of pieces of scrap lumber can be attached to the vertical 2x8's (??) on the base...verses masking. Once the framing is raised and the sheathing attached (overhanging the floor & 2x8's (??), The final siding can be attached...overhanging the sheathing. From the greenish appearance of the flooring on the base, it "appears" to be a weather treated plywood, but a couple of $$ of paint will make it MORE weather proof.

OK, let me bore y'all with a story to PROVE my method of treating the ends of plywood really works! Some time in the early 90's...let's say '93...I build a bird feeder with a plywood floor and treated the end grain as explained above. The side rails attached to the floor where cut so they'd overhang the floor. The finished feeder was mounted on a pole in my backyard and subject to all weather. I lived in Connecticut at that time. 25+/- years later, I now live in Tennessee and that same feeder is mounted on my rear deck! I've sprayed the outside surfaces over the years, but have never dismantled & re-treated the plywood end grain...and the floor is still rock-solid. I realize a feeder isn't a building, but the process works.

Boar, You've got a great start, but anything you do now will preserve your building. Siding, trim, doors & windows can be replaced, but you want your framing to stay solid. And since your plywood floor is underneath your side framing, I consider that part of the framing! Bob
 

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I'm going to use deep fryer oil on my next shed (for the frame, anyways). It's not like the building is heated or will suffer from condensation. It'll be a pole-and-beam arrangement, so the dirt floor negates any worries about plywood. Roof will be constructed of strapping supporting corrugated metal sheets.
 

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I'm going to use deep fryer oil on my next shed (for the frame, anyways). It's not like the building is heated or will suffer from condensation. It'll be a pole-and-beam arrangement, so the dirt floor negates any worries about plywood. Roof will be constructed of strapping supporting corrugated metal sheets.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I completed the trusses today as shown in the image. Tomorrow I will be heading back to Menards/Lowes and getting two extra 4x4 runners and paint. I am attempting to get a paint to match my red 30x45 building on the property where this lawn shed will hopefully end up. Otherwise it will stay here and be known as the little red lawn shed. Next owners will think "why did he paint that shed red". Maybe I will write the address to this forum on one of the beams so they can find out.

We are supposed to get rain tomorrow and Friday. If Saturday is nice, this thing will get erected. Good ole fashioned barn raising.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's been cold and really wet here in Ohio. Irritating. I may be working the rain this weekend.... or skipping Easter parties. The forecast is rainy and a chance of not getting a whole lot done outside.
 

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Unless I'm missing something, I don't see why you can't just run your exterior plywood or siding over the plywood floor's edges, rather than treat the edges? I've never done anything other than that to protect my shed floors. Painting/treating the BOTTOM of the floor before laying it would have been better, in terms of protecting it from rot. However, I wouldn't be overly worried about it. In my opinion, that treated plywood will last as long off the ground as your 4x4s will on the ground. Today's ACQ/AC2 treated "ground contact" posts are nothing like the old CCA stuff that could be buried for 20 years and be fine.

I had a 12x16 shed moved once. A local towing company did it. They hooked their chains around the 4x4 runners and drug it up onto the truck. Worked fine. May be something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I had a few hours where it wasn't raining yesterday. I was able to get my brother over here and help raise the barn. We were only going to attach the runners in the weather window we had, but as the weather cooperated, so we decided to proceed further.

1. Note the extra two 4x4 runners assembled to the bottom of the joists

2. It took some time to get the foundation "level". I probably have more shims than required

3. The wall frames are up and more even than I expected. Good work Boar!

4. The trusses were toe-nailed and supported

This is where we stopped, as before the siding goes on I need to paint them. I got the paint, and supplies, just need to find a place to paint them easily, as the weather is not cooperating at all to paint them outside. I was hoping to go lay them outside on a tarp and go to town painting them, but my plan needs revised for the sake of time. Tomorrow supposed to be nice, and I may have some time before we go to Easter parties. We'll see.

Once the walls are painted, I will begin hanging the siding. The trusses need braced on the edges, and finally the outriggers installed. Once the outriggers are up and the siding is on, I will put the sheeting, paper, shingles and ridge vent on. Then finally make a door. That's the high level plan, we'll see what changes, lol.

For folks paying attention to this thread, I will not be posting updates next week after Monday, as I will be traveling for work until Saturday.
 

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