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Discussion Starter #1
Well I been slowly building a ballast box/basket for my 1025R with discarded rebar I bring home from the jobsite. I will be slapping together a brush fork and rippers later but first I need some ballast. Started Sunday cutting some up for the frame


Really slow with the saw I got ( I plan on getting a band saw or something more committed to cutting steel)



Went through some abrasive blades, but got the frame cut, and started grinding and welding yesterday. Rebar has raised ribs on it, so for the points of connection, I ground those down and filled in the gaps with the welder. Got part of it welded and went in for dinner.
I still need to finish the frame and then get it mounted, then weld on smaller sticks to the bottom and sides.

I AM NOT A VERY GOOD WELDER!
I haven’t touched a welder in 10 years so go ahead and laugh. It’s ugly but it’ll hold



I’ll make some headway this weekend. This is all being done in my spare time, but I have a lot to tackle with this little guy and I want to have ballast before I grenade my front end.




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When you make the things you need it is more satisfying than just buying something. And the way "One Size Fits All" has taken over, making it yourself will meet your needs better.

Oh, your welding is way better than mine.
 

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Looks good so far. I love to tinker in my shop and build stuff too. Sometimes I probably spend a lot more time and maybe more money doing it myself instead of just buying it, but I get a lot of satisfaction building it with my own hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I give out crappy advice and tell even crappier jokes but I can build a crate. I think...Thanks guys



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Thanks for making a thread for this. As someone who uses rebar regularly (for setting property corner stakes), I am really interested to see your use of them and the finished product.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I got the frame kinda done.



I had to Macguyver the crap out of it to get the corners to line up and weld.



Looks too damn big! I wanted a good sized tote for tools and other crap. It’s 36x21x28. It’s already really heavy and now I can weld the cross sections while on the machine.



Still have to attach the lower bar. It’s just sitting in the imatch. This was intentional though and now I can weld it in the proper position. Hope it’s not too big. Go big or go home I guess




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Nice, props on the repurposing. Go big or go home, is right!

So what ya gonna fill it with?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice, props on the repurposing. Go big or go home, is right!

So what ya gonna fill it with?
I figure after I weld some more bar on the bottom and sides, it’ll be around 350. I will still have plenty more to put in the bottom and have room for tools and what not. I don’t want to go to far over the 600 mark per the recommendations with fluid filled tires.
 

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Still have to attach the lower bar. It’s just sitting in the imatch. This was intentional though and now I can weld it in the proper position.
Good idea. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #13
The link doesn't work for me.

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I edited it. It didn’t work the first time. All good now


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601 lbs is the desired ballast weight for safe loader operation when you have liquid filled tires as added ballast.

What is "Rear Ballast"? And why do you need it?

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Right, but that is a minimum. No worries if you exceed that weight, as long as you don't exceed the capacity of the 3pt.

The manual for the 120r loader recommends 772lbs 3pt weight with loaded tires.



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Discussion Starter #15
Right, but that is a minimum. No worries if you exceed that weight, as long as you don't exceed the capacity of the 3pt.

The manual for the 120r loader recommends 772lbs 3pt weight with loaded tires.



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Thank you. No manual came w loader. Just my tractor manual. Didn’t even get the book on my rear blade. So, I do have an obnoxious amount of rebar and can throw some more in there. There’s also the imatch which I gotta look into the weight but it’s like 80 lbs or so.


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I'd recommend that you put the lifting pins lower down. It'll complicate your build a little bit but it'll also keep your ballast from bottoming out on inclines or going up ramps or going through a ditch etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
They’re as far down as I dare. Top hook of imatch clears it by about an inch when bottomed out and hooking it on and off. I don’t like it that low riding either but that’s what I got to work with. I’m up for more advice if you see
something I don’t






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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Clears the ground about 14”



Only option I can see to get more clearance is putting it on bocks...and to me that’s lame.


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Put a pair of bars 4-6" further down than the one's you have now, then you have two height options.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Put a pair of bars 4-6" further down than the one's you have now, then you have two height options.
That’s a great idea.


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