Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
38,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know I may not be the sharpest tool here (keep the comments to yourself :lol:) but does anyone else have excessive ballast box free play, left to right? How do ya stop it.

IMG_0465.JPG _ _ _ IMG_0464.JPG

I moved two piles of wood-chips today and the slapping drove me nuts, as usual. Not to mention the large amount of weight moving around back there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,091 Posts
Yes... the bushing clearance on all my implements looks exactly as yours. Is it causing a problem of some kind?
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
38,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The ballast box is sliding within the imatch (Harbor Freight).
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55 and Levi

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,091 Posts
The ballast box is sliding within the imatch (Harbor Freight).
Yep, mine does the same thing with a Land Pride QH15 quick hitch. I'm using the same bushings as you are.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,147 Posts
My ballast box on my 1025r does the same thing. There is allot of space between the top link pin area inside the ballast box frame work and the hook on the I-match. Mine slides back and forth until the hook contacts the inside top pin frame work on the ballast box. If you can shim the top link bushing so there isn't so much clearance between the I-match hook and the inside of the top link frame on the box, I think that would solve the problem. I have looked at mine but just haven't taken the time to come up with a shim. 1-1/4" flat washers will fit the bushing although the OD of a 1-1/4" flat washer is 3". This will not clear the I-match frame where the top hook mounts.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
38,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The hook connection looks similar to Ray_PA's. The space on mine my even be a bit more. I'm certain the hook connection is what I hear slapping really loud. I would think shimming it would make hook up a lot harder.

Ya know what? It just came to me. Do ya think my ballast box modification has amplified the issue somewhat?

IMG_0289_1.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,147 Posts
The hook connection looks similar to Ray_PA's. The space on mine my even be a bit more. I'm certain the hook connection is what I hear slapping really loud. I would think shimming it would make hook up a lot harder.

Ya know what? It just came to me. Do ya think my ballast box modification has amplified the issue somewhat?

View attachment 204681
I know mine slides back and forth on the top link pin until the hook contacts (slams against) the inside of the ballast box top link frame work. I kind of got used to hearing it slam back and forth so I haven't taken the time to come up with a fix. I do think shimming it will make it harder to hook up, although, on mine, when it slides to one side, and I try to take the box off with the hook to one side, the hook does not want to unhook out of the box. I usually have to use some persuasion to get it unhooked. So, I am thinking maybe the shims might make it easier to get off even though it might take a little more effort to align it to put it on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55 and Gizmo2

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Me too

I thought I am the only have this problem until I saw this point and other'sr reply.:laugh: Wow, I am not alone.

I am using iMatch at back and I thought it maybe my ballast box a little bit heavier.


I know I may not be the sharpest tool here (keep the comments to yourself :lol:) but does anyone else have excessive ballast box free play, left to right? How do ya stop it.

View attachment 204649 _ _ _ View attachment 204657

I moved two piles of wood-chips today and the slapping drove me nuts, as usual. Not to mention the large amount of weight moving around back there.
 

·
Bonehead Club Lackey
Joined
·
10,286 Posts
The hook connection looks similar to Ray_PA's. The space on mine my even be a bit more. I'm certain the hook connection is what I hear slapping really loud. I would think shimming it would make hook up a lot harder.

Ya know what? It just came to me. Do ya think my ballast box modification has amplified the issue somewhat?

View attachment 204681
I'd say all that black paint didn't help it any. :laugh:
Seriously, I would use some washers on the bottom pins. A few on each side should do it. You should see all that I use on my drawbar. If you have a welder and do some welding you could make it easier for hook up by welding them in place where you need them. I don't do the welder bit as I'm no welder nor do I have one. Don't have an iMatch either so I may be just blowing smoke. :dunno:
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55 and Gizmo2

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,660 Posts
The hook connection looks similar to Ray_PA's. The space on mine my even be a bit more. I'm certain the hook connection is what I hear slapping really loud. I would think shimming it would make hook up a lot harder.

Ya know what? It just came to me. Do ya think my ballast box modification has amplified the issue somewhat?

View attachment 204681
gizmo2-i know this is gonna sound like a lot of work and measuring:dunno:but why couldn't u take a peice of pipe larger than the side pin, u have to knock ur pins back out, to get the correct size, and u have to measure the inside amount of slop that u have with the box hooked up first too. then slide peice of pipe onto the first pin, reinstall the press pin, with that piece of pipe spacer to the inside(here's where ur welder would come in handy) ur quick hitch should then just slide right into pin, cause of the bigger size of inside spacer pipe.. that's what gonna do for my subsoiler, just used mine over the weekend, and i got slop out of it too.

and some one mentioned about tightening the turn buckles, i even copied RandyM's idea of using zip ties around the turn buckles, plus my rings. and for some reason, they(turn buckles) have backed just enough to cause some slop now. so when i bring my tractor home from my sons, i have to do some inspecting, as to why that has occurred! good luck gizmo2!:thumbup1gif:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Levi and Gizmo2

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
519 Posts
BigJim's suggestion is the way to go, but if you want to try a temp quick fix, cut several pieces of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood into squares, maybe 3 or 4" square; (round would be nicer looking, if you have a 3 or 4" holesaw). Then drill holes in the center of the plywood spacers, to match the diameter of your hitch pins. Put as many spacers on the pins, as needed, to take up the side play, and see how it goes. Shouldn't take long, and it should solve the problem, but something metal would be more of a permanent fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,221 Posts
Since you do not have an iMatch, you will need to control the side to side movement with your stabilizer chains/bars/rods on the lower links. When looking at the pic, I see that the lower links are set out too far. Note the gap between the link and the box. Move them in closer to the ballast box to cure this problem. I do not have this problem on my iMatch as the width fits perfectly and my stabilizers are set to a fixed position.

Dave
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,542 Posts
Since you do not have an iMatch, you will need to control the side to side movement with your stabilizer chains/bars/rods on the lower links. When looking at the pic, I see that the lower links are set out too far. Note the gap between the link and the box. Move them in closer to the ballast box to cure this problem. I do not have this problem on my iMatch as the width fits perfectly and my stabilizers are set to a fixed position.

Dave
Dave, he has the Horrible Fright quick hitch, just not the JD "iMatch" one.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,983 Posts
Why not glue a small strip of rubber into the bottom of the hooks? It could work, it could get wiped out the first time you use it too....
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
38,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Ok, BigJim55's then JD-4100's posts sort of rang a bell.

What would happen it I took the pins s-l225.jpg off and made them shorter? Say cut off 1/2" on both or what ever it would take?

BTW, I have the same issue with our chipper.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,202 Posts
There are a couple of pin hole positions on the QH bushings. IF the rear draft arm sway chains are snug and the ballast box is sliding between the bushing stops, you may be able to limit movement by moving the bushings inward. Use the alternate set of pin holes in the bushings. Tightening the top link connection at the Quick Hitch isn't going to make much difference.
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
38,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
There are a couple of pin hole positions on the QH bushings. IF the rear draft arm sway chains are snug and the ballast box is sliding between the bushing stops, you may be able to limit movement by moving the bushings inward. Use the alternate set of pin holes in the bushings. Tightening the top link connection at the Quick Hitch isn't going to make much difference.
I saw that when I installed them. I put them on as far as they will go.
I agree, making the top link/hook tighter is not really the way to go, IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigJim55 and Levi

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
38,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Ok, BigJim55's then JD-4100's posts sort of rang a bell.

What would happen it I took the pins View attachment 204873 off and made them shorter? Say cut off 1/2" on both or what ever it would take?
Scratch that! What a dumba$$ I am. :lol:
I would still need to use the same pin holes.:banghead::banghead:
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top