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I have a front end loader and a 47" snowblower for my recently purchased 1025R and want to ensure that I have the proper counter-weight to be within John Deere spec - and provable, should anything happen to the 4WD hubs down the road where JD might require proof of proper ballast.

I have really only used the front end loader once for a brief job of moving 4 yards of sifted, black topsoil around my yard... and would probably use the FEL just occasionally for an odd yard/property task. So, mostly it will be detached from my tractor. The snowblower, would obviously be attached the duration of a Michigan winter.

Ballast box weight currently consists of 'tubes' of sand - - -I had them in the trunk of my daughters rear wheel drive Mustang to give her better snow traction. Probably not quite enough weight for the ballast box though.

I can't find specs on what John Deere actually require for ballast box weight - in total - when using a front end loader or a snow-blower. The FEL owners manual did show a few charts that merely specified what 'sand' and 'concrete' weight would add when the ballast box was filled either material... something like 274# using sand and 374# when using concrete.

Concrete would be permanent. Is there any reason why I *wouldn't* want to use concrete?

And, is the weight of a ballast box filled with concrete enough weight in the rear when using a Front End Loader? If not, what is the solution??

I hesitate filling my rear tires with 'beat juice', because I don't want tire ruts in my yard when mowing soft ground in the spring / late fall.

So - can anyone tell me what the recommended ballast weight should be when using a front end loader/snow blower.... and what I might do to achieve this with the JD Ballast Box I have?

Thanks.
 

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All the ballast specs are shown in the loader owners manual.


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I have 54" snowblower and use the JD ballast box full of gravel. I also have 50 lb. wheel weights. That works well on a sloping 200' driveway asphalt for me. I use chains on the turf tires.
 

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Fill your ballast box, assuming it is the JD box, full of sand and you will be fine. Mine has had sand in it now through 4 tractors and I never had a problem with the FEL carrying gravel or anything else I wanted. I now have the box on a 2032r and it is still ok for weight. If you think you need more through a few blocks on top of the box or something else heavy. I never liked the idea of concreting in my weight box. While it works for many on here and there has been some great ideas in what they have done. I am just not one to permanently seal a box for just one purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fill your ballast box, assuming it is the JD box, full of sand and you will be fine. Mine has had sand in it now through 4 tractors and I never had a problem with the FEL carrying gravel or anything else I wanted. I now have the box on a 2032r and it is still ok for weight. If you think you need more through a few blocks on top of the box or something else heavy. I never liked the idea of concreting in my weight box. While it works for many on here and there has been some great ideas in what they have done. I am just not one to permanently seal a box for just one purpose.
I do have the JD Ballast Box.... my one question with sand is; sand might absorb and store moisture - wouldn't that work to rust out the metal ballast box? I did buy some Herculiner Roll-on Truck Bed Coating, which seems to be highly rate.... and I think if I applied that *first* to the inside of the ballast box before putting sand in it.... I would be golden with no worries of interior rust?

https://www.amazon.com/Herculiner-HCL0B7-Brush-Bed-Liner/dp/B0002TDUXS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476989656&sr=8-2&keywords=herculiner+truck+bed+liner&th=1
 

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I do have the JD Ballast Box.... my one question with sand is; sand might absorb and store moisture - wouldn't that work to rust out the metal ballast box? I did buy some Herculiner Roll-on Truck Bed Coating, which seems to be highly rate.... and I think if I applied that *first* to the inside of the ballast box before putting sand in it.... I would be golden with no worries of interior rust?

https://www.amazon.com/Herculiner-HCL0B7-Brush-Bed-Liner/dp/B0002TDUXS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476989656&sr=8-2&keywords=herculiner+truck+bed+liner&th=1
I have had sand in mine four 10 years now. It has not rusted through nd mine sets outside in the open rain, snow what ever mother nature through at it. But that would be a good idea to paint something inside of it.
 

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I filled mine with tube sand also. I got a great deal on the open and damaged tubes at the end of season. I filled it to within 2 inches of the top. All I did to prep mine was to tape up the corners inside the box so the sand didn't leak out. I also put in 2 pieces of 4" PVC pipe with caps and another piece of 2" that I had in the garage. I use them for holding tools.

I just happen to have it hooked up, I've been pulling a fallen oak out of the woods behind me...

DSCF7625.jpg


If you search this site, you'll find some really nice looking ballast box builds!


There's 8+ gallons of -25 degree window washer fluid in each rear tire too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I filled mine with tube sand also. I got a great deal on the open and damaged tubes at the end of season. I filled it to within 2 inches of the top. All I did to prep mine was to tape up the corners inside the box so the sand didn't leak out. I also put in 2 pieces of 4" PVC pipe with caps and another piece of 2" that I had in the garage. I use them for holding tools.

I just happen to have it hooked up, I've been pulling a fallen oak out of the woods behind me...

View attachment 255745


If you search this site, you'll find some really nice looking ballast box builds!


There's 8+ gallons of -25 degree window washer fluid in each rear tire too.
Cool! Thanks for the picture - always helps to see a photo. I like the idea of incorporating a tube to store a carry-along tool!
 

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Filled mine with pavers; they fit in nice and tight and provided just over 530 pounds. I have a heavy hitch with weights which I can add as needed. After a while you can feel if the tractor needs more weight and adjust accordingly.
 
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Hello all. So i know this is an old thread but I still have some questions after reading the manual and a bunch of posts.
I bought a 1025 TLB back in August. Really love the thing.
The ground is frozen now so backhoe season is over. I finally mounted the 3 point and imatch quick hitch and filled the ballast box I bought with 5- 80lb bags of cement. (400lbs + the weight of the box, imatch etc)
So my questions concern operating the tractor with the ballast box. The manual for the loader calls for a lot of ballast weight. More than I put in the BB, but my loaded box sure feels heavier than when I was driving around with the backhoe on. I never felt unstable doing loader work with the BH on. Does anybody know how much the 260b backhoe alone weighs? It is not listed in the manual. It would seem that the weight I have is plenty. I'm afraid to put 600-700lbs back there if I don't need to.
My other question concerns the operating position of the BB. Do you guys drive around with the box in the highest position or should I use it lower to the ground, like using the front end loader, keeping the mass lower.
Last question concerns the turnbuckles on the 3 pt hitch. How tight or loose do you run them.
Thank you for your time. G
 

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Hello all. So i know this is an old thread but I still have some questions after reading the manual and a bunch of posts.
I bought a 1025 TLB back in August. Really love the thing.
The ground is frozen now so backhoe season is over. I finally mounted the 3 point and imatch quick hitch and filled the ballast box I bought with 5- 80lb bags of cement. (400lbs + the weight of the box, imatch etc)
So my questions concern operating the tractor with the ballast box. The manual for the loader calls for a lot of ballast weight. More than I put in the BB, but my loaded box sure feels heavier than when I was driving around with the backhoe on. I never felt unstable doing loader work with the BH on. Does anybody know how much the 260b backhoe alone weighs? It is not listed in the manual. It would seem that the weight I have is plenty. I'm afraid to put 600-700lbs back there if I don't need to.
My other question concerns the operating position of the BB. Do you guys drive around with the box in the highest position or should I use it lower to the ground, like using the front end loader, keeping the mass lower.
Last question concerns the turnbuckles on the 3 pt hitch. How tight or loose do you run them.
Thank you for your time. G
Deere website lists 260B weight as 610 lbs.
 

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Thank You. So my box is approximately equal.
To answer your other question. Tighten the buckles incrementaly while raising and lowering the 3pt in different positions as it does not need to be “tight” with the Imatch you don’t have to worry about taking that off atleast until you need the backhoe again.

If you find your weight is more than your needs you can always remove some. I fill my ballast box with dumbbells and carry around 500#. Odly I know the length adds leverage but it feel more stable using my frontier rear blade at 250#
 

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...but my loaded box sure feels heavier than when I was driving around with the backhoe on. I never felt unstable doing loader work with the BH on.
The main purpose of ballast is to move the CG of the tractor rearward - away from the pivoting front axle and closer to the solid rear axle. Without proper ballast you will have too much weight on the front axle, which makes it much easier to tip over sideways.

Similarly, a ballast box is better for stability than the backhoe because the center of gravity will be lower with the ballast box.

For safe loader work you should ballast at least as much as the manual recommends. To do otherwise is to increase the already present risk of a turnover.

My other question concerns the operating position of the BB. Do you guys drive around with the box in the highest position or should I use it lower to the ground, like using the front end loader, keeping the mass lower.
Lower is better. There is nothing to be gained by carrying it higher, aside from not scraping the ground.
 

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Thank You. So my box is approximately equal.
Its about a 60lb difference. However, you would need to know where the center of the weight of the backhoe is compared to the center of the weight of an equally heavy ballast box, in order to determine if they provided the same amount of stability. Strictly based upon my imperfect memory of how easy it was to tilt (by hand) the detached backhoe I would say that the backhoe's center of gravity is carried somewhat closer to the tractor than a ballast box.

In other words, simply knowing that the two weights are equal does not mean that you are properly ballasted.

 

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So it would seem that the minimum ballast requirements for the loader exceed the weight of the backhoe. I've done plenty of loader work with the backhoe on and it always felt very stable.
 

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So it would seem that the minimum ballast requirements for the loader exceed the weight of the backhoe. I've done plenty of loader work with the backhoe on and it always felt very stable.
Mathematically, physically, the backhoe equipped tractor is less stable than with a ballasted box as according to the manual. I can't comment on why it would feel more stable to someone, probably just feels different.

I have not yet found ballast recommendations for when the backhoe is attached. Perhaps they expect fluid filled tires or wheel weights to be equipped on any tractor with a backhoe since that is specified for all ballast box options (all backhoe tractors have FELs). IMO, it is a failing on Deere's part not to properly communicate this.

I am sure if you asked several dealers you would get different answers. Most will probably say that the backhoe alone is sufficient ballast. Math does not support this, or rather it conflicts with the minimum recommendations for ballast in the manual.
 
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