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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for info as to what guys have found as the best affordable ballast box.

I've been kicking this around and doing some research, but figured you all would be a good indicator as far as quality and value.

I've kicked around building one and have seen some awesome designs, but with as busy as I am that's going to be hard to get done. I could really use one months ago, but haven't pulled the trigger.

I've also debated weights, but at $1/lb, it's hard to justify that expense.

The one that's caught my eye is the Titan. I like the looks of having the tool pipes and receiver built into it. However, I've seen where there's been some grumbling about quality of the build.

What other options are out there that you guys have been impressed with?
 

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I picked mine up off CL, only took a couple years to find one! I prefer to fill mine with lead & scrap iron I had on hand, left about 8" in the top for chains & tools. Pipes & chainsaw holder on the outside, Railroad rails & receiver underneath: HPIM1260.jpg 1072.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I picked mine up off CL, only took a couple years to find one! I prefer to fill mine with lead & scrap iron I had on hand, left about 8" in the top for chains & tools. Pipes & chainsaw holder on the outside, Railroad rails & receiver underneath:
Yeah, I've been watching CL. Nothing even regionally that I can find.

I like the rails and receiver you've added, though. Gives it a nice look.
 

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I've also debated weights, but at $1/lb, it's hard to justify that expense.
Just throwing this out there.

It may be $1/lb or a little more. However, I see them for sale all the time at the same price as new. All it takes is a bit of spray paint and an old weight looks new. So while you will have money tied up in them you can always get your money out of them when they are no longer needed.

I will say there are some nice things with the box like being able to haul tools around but the suitcase weights are much smaller, easier to move around by had if not on the machine.

It really comes down to what will work best for you but if the only thing discouraging you from weights is the $1/lb, isn't that big of a deal in the end. 15 years from now the weights will still have the same value or more. A box might be dented, rusted out or in rough shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just throwing this out there.

It may be $1/lb or a little more. However, I see them for sale all the time at the same price as new. All it takes is a bit of spray paint and an old weight looks new. So while you will have money tied up in them you can always get your money out of them when they are no longer needed.

I will say there are some nice things with the box like being able to haul tools around but the suitcase weights are much smaller, easier to move around by had if not on the machine.

It really comes down to what will work best for you but if the only thing discouraging you from weights is the $1/lb, isn't that big of a deal in the end. 15 years from now the weights will still have the same value or more. A box might be dented, rusted out or in rough shape.
I get what you're saying and have thought about that aspect. Budget is more of a factor than anything. For a weight setup I'm looking at $6-700 or more, but a ballast box is half.

I like the versatility of a box, too. The ability, like you say, to haul tools and such is worth something.
 

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I get what you're saying and have thought about that aspect. Budget is more of a factor than anything. For a weight setup I'm looking at $6-700 or more, but a ballast box is half.

I like the versatility of a box, too. The ability, like you say, to haul tools and such is worth something.
Yeah, like I said if you want it for the versatility of hauling stuff by all means. It just sounded a bit like the cost factor was the only reason so I thought I would toss that out there.

There is more than one option for a reason. One options ends up being better than the other in certain use cases.
 
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I have the Deere ballast box. When I bought my 1025 I think it was 250$ I filled it with 500 lbs concrete and put in 2 3" pic tubes with caps on the bottoms that I have chain in one and one for a rank/ shovel. One thing I recommend is to silicone the inside seams first because it keeps the moisture in the concrete from seeping out and staining the box
 

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I have the Deere ballast box filled with sand. On the rare occasions that I've used the tractor for snow removal; having a ballast box full of sand is a quick source of traction grit on slippery surfaces.
 

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Looking for info as to what guys have found as the best affordable ballast box.

I've also debated weights, but at $1/lb, it's hard to justify that expense.
If comparing weights to a ballast box, what method are you looking at for hanging 600 lbs. of weights off the back of the tractor?

Really, when it comes to ballast boxes I wouldn't get too hung up on the quality. I mean, it's just a steel box that you are going to fill with concrete, sand, bricks, etc. It will probably sit outside when you are not using it. As long as it stays attached to the 3PH arms and top-link you are good to go.
 
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If comparing weights to a ballast box, what method are you looking at for hanging 600 lbs. of weights off the back of the tractor?

Really, when it comes to ballast boxes I wouldn't get too hung up on the quality. I mean, it's just a steel box that you are going to fill with concrete, sand, bricks, etc. It will probably sit outside when you are not using it. As long as it stays attached to the 3PH arms and top-link you are good to go.
I would agree. Even if it isn't the right color, if the price is right that can be fixed...

If set on a box the things I would focus on is really going to come down to use.

Lets say this is the only thing that you have that will ever connect to the 3pt. You are going to hang it back there and it is never going to come off and you don't have an iMatch or any other quick hitch. It really doesn't matter much get whatever is the best deal and paint it if needed mount it to the back and go.

If you are taking it on/off because maybe you have or are thinking at some point you want some 3pt attachment, well I would strongly recommend getting an iMatch if you don't have one or some other quick hitch. Keep in mind that the position of those hooks are not 100% universal so get that part now and make sure it is compatible with the box or the box or hitch can be modified to make them compatible. You will thank yourself later. Also there is the photo above about someone that attached were they old rail tracks or I beams to the bottom. Something like this would be nice. Some designs need to be held up off the ground a bit so you can get an iMatch or other quick hitch under the side mounting posts. You can set it down on something but if it was integrated to the base it would be easier. There are plenty of threads on here about modifications to ballast boxes that people have done over the years.

Then for fill you have to make up your mind on what you want to do there. There are all kinds of options and just like the suitcase weight or ballast box there isn't a right answer. Some like cement. Others like sand. No right answer. Whatever you go with I would make some plans for water management. You may plan on parking indoors all the time but if you get caught out in the rain during a massive storm or for some reason something changes where you have to store it outside for a while and it fills with water, I would want to have someway to deal with that. Personally I love the idea of cement with pvc or other pipes sunk into it so I can store rakes, shovels and such. I would probably also kind of give the cement a bit of a crown in the middle and drill some drain holes through the side of the box so water can escape. Maybe even drill a small hole through the endcaps on the pipe and through the bottom of the box so they can drain out. The idea of lining it with something. Silicon was mentioned or maybe a bit of scrap insulation board might help with condensation. The thought is to try and battle corrosion.

Some of these things are going to be much easier or have to be done before the box is filled. More so with cement. If you went sand, worst case you could remove the sand and then just put it back in. I would say that is the one big benefit with sand. You can later reconfigure it. Maybe you have 4 tool holders sunk in the cement and you are kicking your self that you didn't add a 5th before filling it with cement. Not a problem with sand. Got a free afternoon and some beer, it is and easy project.
 
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I bought a JD ballast box with the top extension. The local dealer had some sort of sale going on so it wasn't much more expensive than buying a Titan. Used ones seem to be few and far between around here.

Mine comes on and off on a regular basis. Because of that, I have a QuickHitch (Speeco) and the appropriate bushings are on the BB - as well as the rest of my 3PH attachments.

I was going to fill my with concrete. My original plan was that I was going to drive my tractor about 3 miles up the road to where the local concrete plant's trucks dump the left over material at the end of their runs. They said I could wait in the dump area and have the drivers just dump until my BB was full. Some odd circumstances popped up and that didn't work out, so instead I drove the tractor around the corner from the concrete plant to the local gravel pit and they let me have (for free) enough pea gravel to fill the BB. I weighed the tractor before and after and, if I remember correctly, I have somewhere around 900 lbs in the BB. I also put a couple of lengths of PVC in the BB before I filled it up. They just drain out the bottom.

As I'm typing this, I remember what happened with the "concrete idea". I wanted to seal the bottom and drill holes where I was going to mount the PVC and didn't have the time to do it before I needed the BB. Hence, Plan-B with the gravel. I don't think I gave up too much weight going with the gravel instead of the concrete.

I also have some old wheel weights off my Grandpa's old Farmall Cub that I can stick in the BB if I want to.


At the risk of sounding like the "Safety Police", I think the most important priority is to get some sort of ballast on your tractor if you're doing any serious FEL work. I've had the rear end of my tractor lift up one too many times, so I'm a little more cognizant of it now!
 

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At the risk of sounding like the "Safety Police", I think the most important priority is to get some sort of ballast on your tractor if you're doing any serious FEL work. I've had the rear end of my tractor lift up one too many times, so I'm a little more cognizant of it now!
This is a very good point. Everyone wants to use their ballast box as a tool box which is fine BUT - - it FIRST needs to be BALLAST. So FIRST get it to the factory recommended weight that will make your tractor safe and then use whatever space is leftover for tool storage.
 

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I have a Heavy Hitch and two of their rear pallet forks. I cut down lots of trees so I just use a 500 pound log or a 300 pound log as I need them. The bases of Oaks or Maples work nicely.
 
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I've posted this before. I have a ballast box for my 1025R. I wish that I had gone with a weight bracket and weights. Many times I've had the weight box hang me up while bucking snow up, or trying to pile up dirt, or trying enter/exit an area that I was excavating. The limited 3pt just doesn't lift high enough. I've since spent enough money on things like a 2nd adjustable link for the 3pt lift arms, a bracket for the IMatch to move trailers, etc that had I gone the weight bracket direction in the beginning it wouldn't have cost that much more.
 

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I've posted this before. I have a ballast box for my 1025R. I wish that I had gone with a weight bracket and weights. Many times I've had the weight box hang me up while bucking snow up, or trying to pile up dirt, or trying enter/exit an area that I was excavating. The limited 3pt just doesn't lift high enough. I've since spent enough money on things like a 2nd adjustable link for the 3pt lift arms, a bracket for the IMatch to move trailers, etc that had I gone the weight bracket direction in the beginning it wouldn't have cost that much more.
Note the bolt in lower pins on mine above! This way I can adjust the height where I need it to keep from dragging!

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I weighed the scrap for mine as I put it in, with the RR rails, I have a little more than the recommended weight for my 790, plus anything I put in the top 8".
 
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Note the bolt in lower pins on mine above! This way I can adjust the height where I need it to keep from dragging!

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I bought pins to lower mine but decided not to do so because I have an older style IMatch with the fixed top hook. It looked to me like I wouldn't be able to lower the top pin hole enough to make it worth the effort.
I will always feel that a weight rack/trailer hitch unit such as the one sold by Heavy Hitch would have been a better option for me. Sure, the satchel weights are expensive but they can be used in a multitude of places...hung on the front for ballast while using a rear mounted implement/hung on a rear mounted implement for down pressure/etc. About the only extra function a ballast box has is carrying a few tools...maybe.
 

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It is easy to get 650 lbs on the back end using the Heavy Hitch products. The same products can then be used on the front as well, when needed.

Please see this thread.
 

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I have my ballast box on a furniture dolly in the garage. That makes it easy to position for connection to the tractor and the dolly raises the box up high enough to work with my Land Pride quick hitch.
 

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I bought the JD ballast box with my 1025R TLB last year, but I have yet to use it. I have the hoe on whenever I have the FEL on, don't have any 3-point attachments yet. I take off the hoe and the FEL to mow, and that's about it lol. I've tossed around selling the ballast box, but not sure yet.
 
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Note the bolt in lower pins on mine above! This way I can adjust the height where I need it to keep from dragging!
I just bought a JD ballast box. I used the promo code 73062 which is good until the end of April for 15% off. Anyway, I was looking at doing the same thing as uyou did so I could have different heights. I assume you just drilled the angle iron in the top link bracket as well?
 
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