Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Wondering what people are running for ballast on 2025r's. What amount of weight is considered enough? would 6-700lbs be sufficient for loader work and traction in the winter running the blower? The tractor will have a cab and rear wheel weights. I know I need more weight out on the 3 point to balance I just want to lock down how much.

Looking at going with a weight bracket that would carry 100lb suitcase weights, would give me some flexibility and opportunity to increase in the future if I ever upsize to a bigger tractor. I don't like the ballast boxes because of how low they are carried. I will trailer the tractor a fair bit and I want the weights to not hit the trailer when loading and unloading.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,002 Posts
Wondering what people are running for ballast on 2025r's. What amount of weight is considered enough? would 6-700lbs be sufficient for loader work and traction in the winter running the blower? The tractor will have a cab and rear wheel weights. I know I need more weight out on the 3 point to balance I just want to lock down how much.
I strongly urge you to consult the Operator's Manual for your loader. It lists the specific minimum ballast requirements for your tractor/loader combination. Follow what is listed in the manual and you'll have no worries.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I strongly urge you to consult the Operator's Manual for your loader. It lists the specific minimum ballast requirements for your tractor/loader combination. Follow what is listed in the manual and you'll have no worries.
According to the online 2r part for the 120r loader it requires rear wheel weights and loaded tires. No other information was given that I found.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,002 Posts
According to the online 2r part for the 120r loader it requires rear wheel weights and loaded tires. No other information was given that I found.
You have to read further back in the manual. JD, in their infinite wisdom put the ballast requirements in the "specifications" section rather than in the "preparing the tractor" section. Yeah, go figure. :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You have to read further back in the manual. JD, in their infinite wisdom put the ballast requirements in the "specifications" section rather than in the "preparing the tractor" section. Yeah, go figure. :)
800lbs for a 2R? good lord.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,002 Posts
800lbs for a 2R? good lord.
Why does that surprise you? The 120R has a lot of lift capacity.

Lift Capacity
To Maximum Height (A) at Pivot Point
364 kg (803 lb)
To Maximum Height (A) at 500 mm (19.7 in) (I) Forward of Pivot Point
251 kg (553 lb)
To 1500 mm (59 in) (J) at Pivot Pin
434 kg (957 lb)



If you want to really blow your mind back up a few pages and note this tidbit:

"If the loader is equipped with a pallet fork, an additional 85 kg (187 lb) of ballast is required."


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
417 Posts
I have a ballast box and I don't know the exact amount of weight in it, but about 400 to 500 lbs. 800 lbs seems like overkill to me but I didn't write the manual. My tires are loaded too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
You may want to consider dropping some weight for the winter when using the blower. Keep in mind that when you set the blower down and are using it, the weight isn't on the front end anymore. With too much ballast in the back when blowing you may find it hard to steer as too much weight comes off the front wheels. I would try it with just fluid filled rear tires and your rear wheel weights for that use and drop your 3pt weight. While my X585 is a lot smaller but I find if I put a couple weights up on the quick hitch on the front of the tractor when blowing and it works a lot better for weight on the front axle. If I don't have that weight, with fluid filled tires and my Heavy Hitch with 6 x 42# weights, it goes straight just fine but unless I pick up the blower, my front wheels slide more trying to turn than they are effective at doing their job. Besides with 4wd, the front wheels do help drive the machine.

For FEL work, go with as much as you can. I agree with your assessment of the ballast box when you have a tractor with a limited CAT1 3pt. Less of an issue when you get into the bigger machines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,570 Posts
I like the idea of weights for adjustment. I usually use my box blade with suitcase weights hung on it, for heavy FEL you will want a lot of weight. When I'm moving round bales (600#) I run with the box blade, 4-70 lb and 4-42 lb weights, plus the weight of my iMATCH it adds up to 800 lbs +/- a few pounds. But it also takes some common sense, not all of my FEL requires 800 lbs of ballast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Loaded tires and an implement like a box blade is all I have ever used. And I use on some steep terrain. On level ground the loaded tires will be fine as long as your not maxing your loader. I know the manual calls for a lot more weight but I have not had any problems. I use box blade when using forks since weight is so much further in front of Tractor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You may want to consider dropping some weight for the winter when using the blower. Keep in mind that when you set the blower down and are using it, the weight isn't on the front end anymore. With too much ballast in the back when blowing you may find it hard to steer as too much weight comes off the front wheels. I would try it with just fluid filled rear tires and your rear wheel weights for that use and drop your 3pt weight. While my X585 is a lot smaller but I find if I put a couple weights up on the quick hitch on the front of the tractor when blowing and it works a lot better for weight on the front axle. If I don't have that weight, with fluid filled tires and my Heavy Hitch with 6 x 42# weights, it goes straight just fine but unless I pick up the blower, my front wheels slide more trying to turn than they are effective at doing their job. Besides with 4wd, the front wheels do help drive the machine.

For FEL work, go with as much as you can. I agree with your assessment of the ballast box when you have a tractor with a limited CAT1 3pt. Less of an issue when you get into the bigger machines.
I would agree with the blower counter balance. I doubt I would run more than 2-300lbs in the winter, and that would be just for rear tire traction. I like being able to adjust the weight down for tasks as needed. It also happens to be about as expensive a way to add weight as possible but that's how these things go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
I use my backhoe for ballast because it’s all I have. Very rarely, I’ll go without if just doing little stuff like taking out the trash or carrying tools around my land. I do intend to make some kind of 3pt ballast for if a time comes when I won’t need the backhoe as regularly. I’m still debating on weights or loaded tires, I’d prefer not to make the tractor heavier for mowing.

At work I’ve been lifting things without ballast for years. No one else ever puts the ballast box on, I never understand why. Try to keep it on there but it never stays on for long. I’ve learned what to do when the rear picks up off the ground. We’ve ruined the front axle on the 4520 by doing such things. I’d like to keep that to a minimum with my personal tractor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
I would agree with the blower counter balance. I doubt I would run more than 2-300lbs in the winter, and that would be just for rear tire traction. I like being able to adjust the weight down for tasks as needed. It also happens to be about as expensive a way to add weight as possible but that's how these things go.
Actually the weight in the wheels (fluid filled tires and wheel weights) won't impact front weight because it isn't pulling down on the frame at all. It is just the weight hanging off the 3pt that acts like a lever and unloads the weight on the front wheels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Back blade in winter when doing FEL snow work. Nary a problem with loaded rear tires on 4010, 1025R and 2025R.

Light Mac chipper/shredder or bush hog on rear when doing FEL work. Think I had the bush hog on the 4010 when moving the 22 tons of gravel right after I first got the 4010, as I did not have the Mac then. No problems, and the 4010 and 2025R have huge buckets up front.

Just don't be an idiot. Always move slowly with bucket very low.

Ralph
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Wondering what people are running for ballast on 2025r's. What amount of weight is considered enough? would 6-700lbs be sufficient for loader work and traction in the winter running the blower? The tractor will have a cab and rear wheel weights. I know I need more weight out on the 3 point to balance I just want to lock down how much.
I strongly urge you to consult the Operator's Manual for your loader. It lists the specific minimum ballast requirements for your tractor/loader combination. Follow what is listed in the manual and you'll have no worries.
This is the correct answer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
This is some good info, thank you. Still waiting on my tractor, but my dealer told me the ballast box would be enough and seemed to think Me insisting on loaded tires was overkill. Haha. We’ll see how she does. 🙂
According to the online 2r part for the 120r loader it requires rear wheel weights and loaded tires. No other information was given that I found.
You have to read further back in the manual. JD, in their infinite wisdom put the ballast requirements in the "specifications" section rather than in the "preparing the tractor" section. Yeah, go figure. :)
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top