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Need some opinions on the ballast that I'm hoping to use on my JD 1025r with loader. There is no fluid in the tires at this time.
I was planning on using only a iMatch hitch along with a Heavy Hitch with suitcase weights. My question is will this work and if so, how much weight should I use? Will there be any reason to put fluid in the rear tires?
 

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Please read the manual that came with your loader. That probably will not be enough ballast. For the H120 loader JD recommends a minimum of 601 lbs. of rear ballast along WITH fluid filled rear tires.
 

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Why not just buy the JD ballast box for $150? The suitcase weights will be over $65 each, and you would need a whole lot of them to equal a ballast box filled with sand or concrete. Plus with an Imatch you can back right up to it and pick it up without getting off the seat. If storing it is an issue, you can leave it sit outside. Nobody will even try to pick it up and take it, and there are no moving parts that would be bothered by the weather.

Filling the rear tires does nothing for ballast because the added weight is on the axle (pivot point). It only helps bring the center of gravity lower on the tractor when driving on slopes.

Hope this helps.
 

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Well I'm using just the Heavy Hitch. I however have eight 70 pound weights and eight 42 pound weights. My Heavy Hitch holds 16 weights. So with all 16 weights I can have 896 pounds on the Heavy Hitch. Since my 1025r is used for mowing lawn I didn't want the extra weight of fluid filled tires.


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Discussion Starter #5
Why not just buy the JD ballast box for $150? The suitcase weights will be over $65 each, and you would need a whole lot of them to equal a ballast box filled with sand or concrete. Plus with an Imatch you can back right up to it and pick it up without getting off the seat.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figured the ballast box would sick out the back a good bit more then if I went with the heavy hitch.
I was given a imatch that I reconditioned and need to decide how I want to gain ballast before spending any money on one or the other.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figured the ballast box would sick out the back a good bit more then if I went with the heavy hitch.
I was given a imatch that I reconditioned and need to decide how I want to gain ballast before spending any money on one or the other.
The ballast box doesn't stick out all that far, it's more compact than the backhoe, that's for sure. The ballast box is less than 20" from the lower links I believe. The heavy hitch might save about 6" or so... if 6-8" makes that much of a difference, you are operating in some very tight quarters. Additionally you want the weight as far behind you as possible.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figured the ballast box would sick out the back a good bit more then if I went with the heavy hitch.
I was given a imatch that I reconditioned and need to decide how I want to gain ballast before spending any money on one or the other.
Well, in all reality the ballast box being further out beyond the rear axle is actually a benefit. The farther out from the pivot point the more counter leverage you produce. The difference will be about 6 or so inches of extra length with the ballast box vs the Heavy Hitch and weights. BTW, you can weld a 2-1/2" square tube to the top of a ballast box, drill a 1/2" hole through it, and you have yourself a receiver.
 

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Well, in all reality the ballast box being further out beyond the rear axle is actually a benefit. The farther out from the pivot point the more counter leverage you produce. The difference will be about 6 or so inches of extra length with the ballast box vs the Heavy Hitch and weights. BTW, you can weld a 2-1/2" square tube to the top of a ballast box, drill a 1/2" hole through it, and you have yourself a receiver.
Exactly! My dealer here and I had this very same conversation this summer. Anyway, thought I would pass this along. ...oh, and, instead of filling my box with concrete, I opted to use patio pavers. That way I can increase or decrease the weight as it applies. "If" I need to store or move it to a tight location it maneuvers quite well with a little off loading of the weight and no tractor needed. Contemplating the addition of a receiver hitch to the box now.
 

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In reality, the Heavy Hitch sticks out only 6" from the iMatch with the weights and can be reversed to not stick out at all. I also run starter weights on my 1026R and work in some extremely hilly terrain and have had no problems whatsoever moving over 450 yards of gravel. Another benefit of the HH versus the ballast box is it will not drag on the ground. The ballast box must be raised creating a higher center of gravity, where the HH can be left low. Yes, the weights are expensive, but they never wear out and can be used in other places on the tractor. One last thing regarding the receiver, it is visible from the tractor so you can easily back and pick up a trailer without leaving the seat. A receiver welded to a ballast box would be pretty difficult to see. I needed something compact for tight spaces and the HH with weights is over 14" shorter with the receiver out and over 20" shorter with the hitch reversed then a regular ballast box. I wasn't worried about the additional leverage, I just needed a compact design while still providing ballast.
 

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Good post Heavy Hitch.:thumbup1gif:
I agree with you on all points. I was reluctant to buy a ballast box but lack of nothing else I did. Not sure Heavy Hitch was around at the time and if it was I didn't know about it.
I had a weight for our 650 that I used for 20 years but it just wasn't heavy enough. To this day I am still backing into things with the ballast box, especially our fence when snow plowing.
I still do not have a trailer hitch for the very reasons you mentioned.
 

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Exactly! My dealer here and I had this very same conversation this summer. Anyway, thought I would pass this along. ...oh, and, instead of filling my box with concrete, I opted to use patio pavers. That way I can increase or decrease the weight as it applies. "If" I need to store or move it to a tight location it maneuvers quite well with a little off loading of the weight and no tractor needed. Contemplating the addition of a receiver hitch to the box now.
This is how I added the receiver to my box: HPIM2240.JPG I had the RR rail laying around anyway!

The box is filled with scrap iron to a total of 620# with a tray in the top to carry chains, drawbar, etc. HPIM2242.JPG

Tool holders & chainsaw holders on the outside: HPIM2246 (640x478).jpg

Later, I put a pair of bolt-on pins 5" lower than the original ones so it will lift higher when loading on the trailer & not dig into the ground. ~~ Lowell
 

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Between the Heavy Hitch, JD Ballast Box or some other form of a Ballast arrangement for a tractor.... It's like the old Ford, Chevrolet or Dodge. It boils down to user preference. Each makes a quality product and a reasonable price to be determined by the consumer to meet their needs or expectations of performance. One out performs another on different aspects or price etc. Enjoy no matter what your choice is. I still like quality over price and they still got to meet somewhere in the middle. :usa (Buy American too!)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In reality, the Heavy Hitch sticks out only 6" from the iMatch with the weights and can be reversed to not stick out at all. I also run starter weights on my 1026R and work in some extremely hilly terrain and have had no problems whatsoever moving over 450 yards of gravel. Another benefit of the HH versus the ballast box is it will not drag on the ground. The ballast box must be raised creating a higher center of gravity, where the HH can be left low. Yes, the weights are expensive, but they never wear out and can be used in other places on the tractor. One last thing regarding the receiver, it is visible from the tractor so you can easily back and pick up a trailer without leaving the seat. A receiver welded to a ballast box would be pretty difficult to see. I needed something compact for tight spaces and the HH with weights is over 14" shorter with the receiver out and over 20" shorter with the hitch reversed then a regular ballast box. I wasn't worried about the additional leverage, I just needed a compact design while still providing ballast.
Heavy Hitch, you just sold me on doing it your way! Thanks to everyone else that took the time to respond.
Now, I see on the Heavy Hitch order page that there might be a "Coupon Code" out there. Can anybody tell me where to find it?
 

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This is how I added the receiver to my box: View attachment 34271 I had the RR rail laying around anyway!

The box is filled with scrap iron to a total of 620# with a tray in the top to carry chains, drawbar, etc. View attachment 34272

Tool holders & chainsaw holders on the outside: View attachment 34273

Later, I put a pair of bolt-on pins 5" lower than the original ones so it will lift higher when loading on the trailer & not dig into the ground. ~~ Lowell

Now my gears are turning! Kool! How about a photo of the Bolt-on Pins configuration that lower it 5"?
 

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Filling the rear tires does nothing for ballast because the added weight is on the axle (pivot point). It only helps bring the center of gravity lower on the tractor when driving on slopes.
GEE.... I guess my Father and I have ballasted our loader tractors WRONG for... Ohhh over SIXTY YEARS. So ME putting 900 pounds of cast iron wheel weights on the rear wheels of my one antique tractor did NOTHING to counter balance the loads lifted by the loader? And the CaCl fluid in the other tractor... same thing?

Would you like a few minutes to reconsider your answer?
 

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Wish I could get a BB for $150. My dealer wants $275. Still looking for a used one.
Mine did as well


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GEE.... I guess my Father and I have ballasted our loader tractors WRONG for... Ohhh over SIXTY YEARS. So ME putting 900 pounds of cast iron wheel weights on the rear wheels of my one antique tractor did NOTHING to counter balance the loads lifted by the loader? And the CaCl fluid in the other tractor... same thing?

Would you like a few minutes to reconsider your answer?
While I personally won't say it did "nothing", I will agree that it is not proper ballast to offset a loader-adding traction absolutely but not ballast for the loader. There is no reason to get so defensive here either, everyone is entitled to their opinion.

One thing to consider here when comparing your 60 years of experience to this discussion is the type of equipment involved. It a simply not possible to place 900lbs of wheel weights on a 1-series tractor, and filling those small tires doesn't add that much either in the big picture. It's very clear what JD recommends as ballast on these smaller machine, and if you have the documentation for your older equipment you may be surprised what it recommends also.

Here is a there I statred on this very topic, backed up with some facts and figures to help show why it's important to have weight behind the rear axle for ballast, and not on the rear axle.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/implements-attachments/4363-what-rear-ballast-why-do-you-need.html
 

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Exactly! My dealer here and I had this very same conversation this summer. Anyway, thought I would pass this along. ...oh, and, instead of filling my box with concrete, I opted to use patio pavers. That way I can increase or decrease the weight as it applies. "If" I need to store or move it to a tight location it maneuvers quite well with a little off loading of the weight and no tractor needed. Contemplating the addition of a receiver hitch to the box now.
Wait a minute....I spot an outboard on that boat behind the buggie. Clearly it should be a "paddle only" type craft (or maybe should be towed by a seahorse?):laugh:
 
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