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When using rear ballast for FEL operation, do you just set up your ballast for maximum loader capacity and leave it? Do you change ballast amount based on what you’re working with? (Think mulch vs. gravel). I see a few ballast mounting options including a ballast box from Deere and a Heavy Hitch. I can see that with the ballast box, you could fill with varying amounts of gravel and the Heavy Hitch you could add or remove weight, but how often do you need to adjust ballast?
 

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I change my ballast weight for snow plow work and FEL work, that's it.
 

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Think for most of us it's a case of filling it to the recommend weight for maximum lift and then leaving it. It's ok to work with more rear ballast then needed, but if course not ok to try and work with less.

Considering a lot of people fill their boxes with concrete it's pretty hard to adjust.
 

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Snowplowing with the recommend weight for FEL work is a down right PITA. IMO!
 

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I change out between the HeavyHitch and ballast box. For 95% of the time our HeavyHitch is on. This works for me since that loader work is limited to hauling mulch and cleaning horse apples. I also leave it on for blowing snow. For those limited chores involving dirt work, I change it out for the ballast box.

Honestly, I wouldn't even consider this exchange if I didn't have the iMatch.
 

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Keep in mind that there is no magic formula for determining the correct amount of ballast relative to what you have in the bucket. You will only know you are drastically under ballasted when the rear wheels lift off the ground. You will NOT know you are under ballasted resulting in excessive stress being applied to the front axle yet the rear wheels remain on the ground.

The JD manuals for the loaders specify the "Minimum Recommended Ballast". And that minimum amount is typically more weight than most folks put in their ballast box.

They also specify that even more Minimum Ballast is required the moment you attach a set of forks to the loader.
 

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As I side note - with the FEL off and ballast box on - my 1025R does a nice controllable wheelie when I give it a little gas:lol:
 

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I think i have too much ballast in the back at times.. I have the John Deere box. .I put about 450 pounds of concrete in the it. Sometimes it feels like my front is off the ground some because when the FEL is empty I can't turn as quickly because the front wheels are sliding more than when I just have the box blade on the back for ballast.

I'm glad I just dumped dry concrete in.. because I'm going to dump some of the weight I think.
 

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I think i have too much ballast in the back at times.. I have the John Deere box. .I put about 450 pounds of concrete in the it. Sometimes it feels like my front is off the ground some because when the FEL is empty I can't turn as quickly because the front wheels are sliding more than when I just have the box blade on the back for ballast.

I'm glad I just dumped dry concrete in.. because I'm going to dump some of the weight I think.
This is what happens with too much weight when snow plowing.
 

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I think i have too much ballast in the back at times.. I have the John Deere box. .I put about 450 pounds of concrete in the it. Sometimes it feels like my front is off the ground some because when the FEL is empty I can't turn as quickly because the front wheels are sliding more than when I just have the box blade on the back for ballast.

I'm glad I just dumped dry concrete in.. because I'm going to dump some of the weight I think.
I've got a ton of extra landscaping bricks that I use for ballast. If I need to increase/decrease I just add/remove the bricks. no mess, no fuss.
 

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I use my ballast box when doing FEL work, and my homemade Heavy Hitch copy with 8 weights when plowing.
 

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I don't have a ballast box and I can tell you there is a little bit of pucker factor when lifting my 4' rotary cutter on the forks, with the backhoe on the back that is! The 260 backhoe is about 610# of useable ballast! :thumbup1gif:


Mr. Moose
 

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I don't have a ballast box and I can tell you there is a little bit of pucker factor when lifting my 4' rotary cutter on the forks, with the backhoe on the back that is! The 260 backhoe is about 610# of useable ballast! :thumbup1gif:
For the H120 JD recommends a minimum of 601 lbs. of rear ballast WITH fluid filled rear tires.
 

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I've got a ton of extra landscaping bricks that I use for ballast. If I need to increase/decrease I just add/remove the bricks. no mess, no fuss.

That is what I do also. No mess, no fuss, no excuses. Works perfect.
 

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I have about 8 pieces of 6-8" wide cutting edge off a D9-10 bulldozer the width of the ballast box plus a 50-75# anvil which I can take out when not needed. Plus I keep 2- 15' tow chains, and I think at present time I have several large rocks, stones all for fel use.
For snowblowing or plowing using my lift weights on the the 3pt seems to be the right amount weight.
 

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Personal ballast

Roughly 30 years ago, my JD dealer pointed out that I wouldn't need as much rear ballast if I would just eat more meat and potatoes. A humorous way to point out that the amount of ballast you need will vary with the weight of the operator.
 

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Roughly 30 years ago, my JD dealer pointed out that I wouldn't need as much rear ballast if I would just eat more meat and potatoes. A humorous way to point out that the amount of ballast you need will vary with the weight of the operator.
Au contraire my meat&potatoes friend........that's the full extent of my bilingualism....... impressed???

Although 'personal ballast' may seem like a good idea, and is certainly a tasty way to keep warmer in winter, the weight needs to be behind the rear axle to off-load the front axle. More weight in the yellow seat actually adds a wee bit more weight to the front axle, although most will go to the rear, but none will off-load the front.

-J.

(jjjhay, in french....)
 
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