Haul it back to TSC and see if you'll get lucky. You already know the worste that can happen. :good2:
Wayne- The caps were on, but I believe they're vented. I know it's "My Bad" that I left it connected. I guess that I was just used to all the other chargers (Craftsmen) that drop back to trickle mode when the battery is "Up"! If I eff'ed it up, I'll man-up and buy a replacement. This is the only piece of equipment that I have with 6V, and Negetive Ground, to boot! That's why I went with that Schumaker Charger. The case doesn't leak, so it apparently didn't Freeze/crack, But God only knows what I did to the cell plates!I'd see if it would take a charge and try again. If not, then do as RandyM advised. Do (did) you leave the caps off the cells when charging it over the winter?
If you know how to use your meter, then you should be checking for the parasitic draw/drain in the current mode. Disconnect the + battery lead and place the meter in the circuit buy placing one lead on the battery and the other on the cable. DO NOT try to start it! Read the current draw, if there is any you start troubleshooting by pulling fuses till the goes away.Scotty370;28744 Another Question: I don't understand electric circuits that much. I've got two pieces of equipment said:Or should I hook up one cable, and meter between the alternate post and alternate lead? Looks like I might be buying a battery, don't want to have to buy a meter!!!!! ~S
Thick as a stump over here! First of all I don't think the [6V JD "M" has fuse 'one' that I can find] I just opened up my meter and fould that I never put in the 9V battery that I need for resistance testing. I'll do that tomorrow. I guess that what I'm worried about is, if I do what you suggest, that the meter is in 'series', IE any drain current is streaming through the meter with a possible 'cooking factor'! And what would I set it at? Dc max scale, and then back it down? Clueless on this end!If you know how to use your meter, then you should be checking for the parasitic draw/drain in the current mode. Disconnect the + battery lead and place the meter in the circuit buy placing one lead on the battery and the other on the cable. DO NOT try to start it! Read the current draw, if there is any you start troubleshooting by pulling fuses till the goes away.
Very Helpful Wayne (and Ken)! And thanks! I did have a slight '[email protected]' in that it is a positive ground system! I'll proceed as instructed........TNX! ~ScottyScotty,
I'm thinking the current draw will be so low that it won't "cook" your meter connected as Kenny suggested. I'd set it on the highest scale and work my way down. On that old a tractor, you won't have the electronics involved as the newer tractors do today. Look for the unusual; water in the starter, water / rust across the lamp terminals inside the light enclosure, etc. If it is a drain, something is completing a (probably) high resistive circuit between the positive and negative terminals on the battery.
One sure test I do when I suspect a parasitic drain is to disconnect the positive cable from the battery. (You said the tractor has a negative ground and I'm not doubting you but a lot of older tractors had a positive ground. My '41 LA JD has a 6 volt positive ground system.) I disconnect the cable not grounded but either one would work. Turn the building lights off if you're inside or cover the battery with a tarp, etc so you'll be in a dark enough area to see a spark when you touch the cable you removed back to the terminal. If you see a spark, you have a drain on the battery. Next, you have to eliminate each electrical item one by one which is what Kenny's suggestion of removing the fuses accomplishes. I doubt if there are any fuses on that old a tractor but I don't know for sure. If no fuses, unwire the lights, try again for a spark, remove the wire to the starter etc until you have no spark when you touch the cable to the battery terminal.
This worked for me on my LA when I had a similar battery drain issue. Water had gotten inside the rear light enclosure and was shorting / grounding out the lamp just enough to pull current from the battery. Cleaned out and repaired the light enclosure to keep out the water and solved my problem.
Clear as mud? My explanations usually are. Hope this helps.
I took the old Battery back, and with a couple of TSC staff members 'Hub-Bubbing' (if that's a word) about it, I came out with a new replacement, no charge! Brought her home, and the "Popper" is 'Popping' again!! Crap! I never get that luccky! ~Scotty:laugh:Haul it back to TSC and see if you'll get lucky. You already know the worste that can happen. :good2: