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Discussion Starter #1
Last year I acquired a Landpride Quick Hitch for my 3 Point and had to modify my older Befco rear mount finish mower to make it compatible with the QH.

While Version 1 worked... I did not like how it looked and I really wasn't satisfied with it.

Here is the original hitch on the mower which had floating top and bottom links.

Original Hitch.jpg

With version 1 I made the lower lift arm pins and top link fixed points and modified the rear lift arms to float.

QH Version 1.jpg

While the deck would still float, it didn't cut the same and I wasn't really impressed with my finished product.

I returned the deck to the original condition and finished the mowing season with the intention of going back to the drawing board for a new solution.

What I've done with Version 2 is to copy the floating top link that is used on my Landpride Rotary Cutter and retain the original floating lower connections.

20160227_133251.jpg

20160227_165527.jpg

20160308_215802.jpg

Now all I have to do is wait for it to dry out so that I can take it for a test run.

Perhaps tonight I will get out the floor jack and do some testing in the dry shop...:lol:
 

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:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Used a floor jack and some blocks to test the float last night.

Rear rise / front drop are good.

Not sure about rear drop though.

I really need to test it out in the yard but right now it is just a tad too wet...:rain:

Got the grinder out and cleaned off the mill scale and it is ready for primer.

I'll have plenty of drying time between coats while we dry out. :laugh:
 

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Did you check if Befco has a conversion kit? I bought a 10+yr old Buhler/Farmking mower last summer and a quick hitch conversion kit for was only about $100 and was still available.

Also on my mower the long arms going to the back part of the mower from the top link are slotted at bottom/rear bolt and this is where its able to slide/pivot for uneven terrian. That might work better than in the middle of the arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you check if Befco has a conversion kit? I bought a 10+yr old Buhler/Farmking mower last summer and a quick hitch conversion kit for was only about $100 and was still available.

Also on my mower the long arms going to the back part of the mower from the top link are slotted at bottom/rear bolt and this is where its able to slide/pivot for uneven terrian. That might work better than in the middle of the arm.
I think Befco does have a conversion kit but I am having fun playing with the modifications myself...:kidw_truck_smiley: :lol:

Version 1 had the slide in the middle....

I'm thinking of adding a slide to the arms at the bottom/rear of the deck like yours has. I just need to test drive it to see if it is needed and if so, how much. :munch:

If you get a chance, could you post a picture of yours?
 

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When I got my mower the previous owner had tightened up the rear bolts at the slide so much that the mower couldn't pivot. Good thing he had a perfectly flat yard!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got everything assembled last night and when I put the PTO shaft on it was pretty close to the QH when the hitch was fully lowered. :banghead:

The factory bottom pins float also.

Decided to give it a test before turning on the PTO. Good thing. I didn't even make it out of the shop. There is a decline going out of the shop and as the front wheels went down the PTO shaft got too close to the QH. :banghead:

In my last version, I put pins in place of the bolts that hold the A frame on. Since I wanted the A frame to float/tilt, I welded the pins in.

I cut the pins off at the base because they interfered with the original factory floating pins that I put back on last year after I abandoned my version 1 mods.

I cut the welds off close with a saw and then ground them down. Finally got them loose. I guess the positive thing is my welds were good!

I need to pick up a couple new pins on the way home and I should be able to get a chance to test it out in the field tonight. I'm not going to weld these in. :laugh:

Pictures to follow when I have some time to post them.
 

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I got everything assembled last night and when I put the PTO shaft on it was pretty close to the QH when the hitch was fully lowered. :banghead:

The factory bottom pins float also.

Decided to give it a test before turning on the PTO. Good thing. I didn't even make it out of the shop. There is a decline going out of the shop and as the front wheels went down the PTO shaft got too close to the QH. :banghead:

In my last version, I put pins in place of the bolts that hold the A frame on. Since I wanted the A frame to float/tilt, I welded the pins in.

I cut the pins off at the base because they interfered with the original factory floating pins that I put back on last year after I abandoned my version 1 mods.

I cut the welds off close with a saw and then ground them down. Finally got them loose. I guess the positive thing is my welds were good!

I need to pick up a couple new pins on the way home and I should be able to get a chance to test it out in the field tonight. I'm not going to weld these in.
Pictures to follow when I have some time to post them.
I have the same issue on the pro shaft with my Befco optional quick hitch adapter. I extend the hyd top link which gives me the clearance I need. Then when I raise the mower I have to retract the hyd top link in order to raise the rear of the mower.

Sent from my Sprint HTC One
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have the same issue on the pro shaft with my Befco optional quick hitch adapter. I extend the hyd top link which gives me the clearance I need. Then when I raise the mower I have to retract the hyd top link in order to raise the rear of the mower.

Sent from my Sprint HTC One
The joys of a hydraulic top link.

It is "on the list". :laugh:

Here is a picture of the way it was connected last night to the floating pins. Just above them where the A frame mounts is where I drilled out what was left of the welded pin.

20160308_215823.jpg


Once I get the new pins in I should not have any clearance issues with the PTO shaft.

The top link float "should" still be enough....... I'll know for sure in a few hours. :laugh:

The good thing is my property is fairly flat so I don't need a lot of float. If I need to change the length of the top connection I can do it without having to race the grass.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Picked up the new lift pins one the way home and put them on.

The higher location of the lift pins changes the geometry and the floating top link doesn't float very much...... but at least the PTO shaft has good clearance.

Fiddled around and found a happy medium. My place is flat enough that I really don't need that much float.

Decided to mow a little bit and thing about plan B.

Halfway through the back field a chain fell off of the tractor and trashed all three blades and one spindle. (and 5' of a 10' chain)



I have concluded this: Quick Hitches are an are a double oxymoron. They aren't quick and they don't hitch.

If the grass gets too tall, I've got a bush hog.

I'm gonna sell the not so quick hitch and what is left of the RMFM to help fund the purchase of the GT262 that I found last weekend.

I may however use the money to just buy mass quantities of Jack and screw the grass.

My glass is empty.
 

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Those blades look ok to me, unless they are bent they are fine to use. I commercial cut grass for industrial/rural properties and am always hitting stuff. My blades look way worse than those when I sharpen them up.

The spindle "might" be salvageable if you can find a die that goes large enough to re-thread the spindle. Something like this would work as well.

Amazon.com: OTC 7402 Universal Outside Thread Chaser: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Those blades look ok to me, unless they are bent they are fine to use. I commercial cut grass for industrial/rural properties and am always hitting stuff. My blades look way worse than those when I sharpen them up.

The spindle "might" be salvageable if you can find a die that goes large enough to re-thread the spindle. Something like this would work as well.

Amazon.com: OTC 7402 Universal Outside Thread Chaser: Automotive
It is hard to tell in the picture, but the spindle thread is hour glass shaped now.

Apparently the chain wrapped around this blade and stopped the blade. The spindle continued to turn, tightening the nut to the point that it stripped the threads off of the center of the spindle.

There isn't enough material left to re-thread.
 

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You not only lost a mower, but you lost a chain too. I had a 7/16 inch rope get caught up in my Befco RFM and it bent one of the swinging blades, but fortunately, there was no damage to the spindle. Some $20 for a new half blade, so I bought two so I could have a spare. Since I have a spare, I will likely never need it.

Dave
 

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It is hard to tell in the picture, but the spindle thread is hour glass shaped now.

Apparently the chain wrapped around this blade and stopped the blade. The spindle continued to turn, tightening the nut to the point that it stripped the threads off of the center of the spindle.

There isn't enough material left to re-thread.
That sucks.....

If you do fix it you may want to back off the tension on the belts. If I hit an obstacle that stops the blades my belts will slip.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That sucks.....

If you do fix it you may want to back off the tension on the belts. If I hit an obstacle that stops the blades my belts will slip.
Good idea. I might want to check that. The belts will have to come off when I take the spindle off........

IIRC, the threads on that spindle were not the greatest to start with, and taking the blades off a few times to sharpen has put some wear on them as well. I might not have taken much to strip it out.


I am going to replace the spindle regardless if I keep it or not. It isn't worth anything the way it is. Just a little frustrated right now.

Once the spindle is done, I am just going to sharpen the blades as best I can and go from there. One of them has a pretty good notch really close to the end. Not sure if it will work very well, since that is where most of the cutting happens. Not going to worry about the blades till I have it back together.
 

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When you sharpen the blades don't worry about trying to grind the nicks right out. Just pass the grinder along the bevel edge to smooth it out. There is a fair bit of overlap in the blades so a bit off one end of one blade won't be a big deal. Whatever you do don't go crazy trying to "fix" those blades, just a few passes with a grinder should do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
When you sharpen the blades don't worry about trying to grind the nicks right out. Just pass the grinder along the bevel edge to smooth it out. There is a fair bit of overlap in the blades so a bit off one end of one blade won't be a big deal. Whatever you do don't go crazy trying to "fix" those blades, just a few passes with a grinder should do it.
That is kinda what I figured on doing if I even try at all. One of them looks like an old rip saw that someone used to cut steel!

The mower may just become a "field mower" and not a finish mower if I keep it.

The tractor is really too big for lawn work and the plan has always been to get a dedicated lawnmower, either a sit and spin or garden tractor. I'm thinking that the GT262 is going to get the nod and I'll put this deck up till I don't have anything better to do with my time or money....
 
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