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I have a set of slip on forks I built for my garden tractor. I was using them on my new to me 53" bucket on the 2320 and later realized the cutter edge now droops down about 3/4" of an inch in the middle....awesome.

I would guess some sort of porta power/ come along with a stiff beam etc could straighten it?
 

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I have a set of slip on forks I built for my garden tractor. I was using them on my new to me 53" bucket on the 2320 and later realized the cutter edge now droops down about 3/4" of an inch in the middle....awesome.

I would guess some sort of porta power/ come along with a stiff beam etc could straighten it?
Sorry, I am a bit confused. Why can you not straighten it the same way you bent it? Use the forks and curl the bucket down instead of up? :unknown:
 

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I had a pallet of sod on the front. I think it bouncing as I drove bent the bucket.

Oh, and my home made forks (made out of c channel) are bent too...

But the way they slide on and attach, they are only effective with downforce, if trying to use them the other way they would just swing up.
 

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I had a pallet of sod on the front. I think it bouncing as I drove bent the bucket.

Oh, and my home made forks (made out of c channel) are bent too...

But the way they slide on and attach, they are only effective with downforce, if trying to use them the other way they would just swing up.
Can you mount them upside down?
 
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Put the bottom of the bucket on a block of wood and push down with the loader. :good2:

This is one of many downsides to bucket forks, but at least it should be easily corrected.
I really doubt that will work.
 
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I really doubt that will work.
^^^^^^^
X2

I tried using the bucket on my 2720 to crush some cardboard boxes. It didn't work very well. Reminded me that these are not 50,000 lb Excavators. :)
 

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I really doubt that will work.
Granted a 2 series is smaller than what I'm used to, but with the edge of the bucket on a 4x4 it seems like the tractor should be heavy enough to unbend it. If not, mounting a fork upside down like was mentioned should give enough leverage.
 

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I would hope the bucket and cutting edge would be strong enough to lift the front wheels off the ground from a point load without (permanently, of course it will deflect) bending something.

I think the beam and force at the points the fork things attached is the way to go. If there is an overhead strong horizontal member around some verticals up to that from the bucket corners and jacks under the places the forks attached would most likely get it close. From the description it really was a rotational force that bent it not a straight line one.
 

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Take the bucket off, flip it upside down, find the the highest spot on the edge, lay a short piece of 4X4 (2-3ft) on the high spot and hit it with an 8/10 pound sledge hammer. Reinstall bucket.
 

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If you had a short length of I-Beam you could clamp it under the bucket. Use ~ 2" spacer in the middle to push up on the bowed area. No spacers on the sides. Use HD C-clamps to keep everything in place. Once you've got the jig in place and the lower bucket edge in tension you can strike the bucket as Gizmo mentioned. This should take care of the distortion. I tweaked a bucket and repaired it using this method many moons ago.
 

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That is 3/4 inch? Looks hardly bent to me. Might be able to curl it back and apply some horizontal force. I will suggest cutting that stuff off the "forks" and making it different so a stiffening piece going horizontal can be used at the same time. At least the fork will bend before the bucket is seriously hurt.
 

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Flip the bucket over, prop it it up so the cutting edge is relatively horizontal. Wrap your heaviest log chain around the ends of the bucket, looping in a hydraulic jack at the deepest bend. Jack it beyond straight, release the jack pressure and check. Lather, rinse and repeat. All normal precautions apply of course given the amount of tension you'll be working with.

My bucket came from the factory bowed, (thread post) but only about 1/4 - 3/8". I opted for a replaceable cutting edge that removed the bow and now it's PERFECTLY straight. The bigger reason I added the replaceable edge was that I push snow on concrete and wanted the extra wear surface. Now that I've had it on for a while, it also does an amazing job in soil, (I have no rocks).
 
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Flip the bucket over, prop it it up so the cutting edge is relatively horizontal. Wrap your heaviest log chain around the ends of the bucket, looping in a hydraulic jack at the deepest bend. Jack it beyond straight, release the jack pressure and check. Lather, rinse and repeat. All normal precautions apply of course given the amount of tension you'll be working with.

My bucket came from the factory bowed, (thread post) but only about 1/4 - 3/8". I opted for a replaceable cutting edge that removed the bow and now it's PERFECTLY straight. The bigger reason I added the replaceable edge was that I push snow on concrete and wanted the extra wear surface. Now that I've had it on for a while, it also does an amazing job in soil, (I have no rocks).
This approach would the safest in my opinion. I have done this to straighten buckets and other things in the past. I did make a cradle with a piece of round tubing that would slip over the piston on the jack and welded a piece of channel iron to the pipe to serve as a cradle for the log chain so it couldn't slip off.

Best of luck to you.
Dave
 
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