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Evening everyone. Been a lurker for over a year and an owner for 8 or so months. Bought a 2017 1025r 60d h120. Loved this thing! And the forum! Read a lot here enjoy the info I have gathered especially the threads with implement building. Also a TTWT watcher(if any of you three see this thread, I enjoy your videos).

So to cut to the chase. 3-4 months into ownership, I had my loader on to move a fuel tank in my driveway to position it for fuel storage. Well I noticed my loader was dropping. Quick. Like 5+”/minute. So I had the dumb idea to remove the loader. Next day it’s practically on the floor with a puddle under one lift cylinder. Tried to put loader on could not get it. I called dealership told them and they said they would come and get it to fix it. Well they ended up forcing the loader on, somehow??? Tractor came home week later all fixed. 1000$ cylinder if anyone wonders

So now a couple months later. I put loader on first time to use. No problem. A month ago I need to do 50 hour service, take loader off in the yard and as I lift it off, it pops and jumps real quick at the last second. Well I think nothing of it(it’s in my yard witch is how level???). Fast forward to later time to put it away and the loader won’t go on quickly. It is lined up on one side not the other. I have to drive forward crooked to force the other side down into the mount so I could latch the loader on.

Yesterday I decide to take loader off in my barn, solid flat concrete floor. Loader lifts right off. I feel pleased, so I lower it back to the mounts and same scenario as before. In fact I decided to leave it off and move the tractor. I measured from ground to the mounting point of each side and sure enough I get an inch of difference. So...I feel like it could be bent and I don’t see it my fault given the wear obviously used when I wasn’t here.

Does this seem feasible ? Am I in the wrong ? How would any of you approach this ? What other testing should I do?

I love this tractor and loader but this is frustrating.

Thanks for reading this huge post.
 

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Evening everyone. Been a lurker for over a year and an owner for 8 or so months. Bought a 2017 1025r 60d h120. Loved this thing! And the forum! Read a lot here enjoy the info I have gathered especially the threads with implement building. Also a TTWT watcher(if any of you three see this thread, I enjoy your videos).

So to cut to the chase. 3-4 months into ownership, I had my loader on to move a fuel tank in my driveway to position it for fuel storage. Well I noticed my loader was dropping. Quick. Like 5+”/minute. So I had the dumb idea to remove the loader. Next day it’s practically on the floor with a puddle under one lift cylinder. Tried to put loader on could not get it. I called dealership told them and they said they would come and get it to fix it. Well they ended up forcing the loader on, somehow??? Tractor came home week later all fixed. 1000$ cylinder if anyone wonders

So now a couple months later. I put loader on first time to use. No problem. A month ago I need to do 50 hour service, take loader off in the yard and as I lift it off, it pops and jumps real quick at the last second. Well I think nothing of it(it’s in my yard witch is how level???). Fast forward to later time to put it away and the loader won’t go on quickly. It is lined up on one side not the other. I have to drive forward crooked to force the other side down into the mount so I could latch the loader on.

Yesterday I decide to take loader off in my barn, solid flat concrete floor. Loader lifts right off. I feel pleased, so I lower it back to the mounts and same scenario as before. In fact I decided to leave it off and move the tractor. I measured from ground to the mounting point of each side and sure enough I get an inch of difference. So...I feel like it could be bent and I don’t see it my fault given the wear obviously used when I wasn’t here.

Does this seem feasible ? Am I in the wrong ? How would any of you approach this ? What other testing should I do?

I love this tractor and loader but this is frustrating.

Thanks for reading this huge post.
If I read correctly, you are measuring while the loader is OFF the tractor. If this is what you are seeing, I wouldn't worry about that at all. Who cares what it is like when OFF the tractor :)

Instead, put the loader on the tractor, find a perfectly level/flat place for measurement. I use my shed floor.
Make sure that front wheels facing directly forward, set bucket cutting edge approximate 1" off the floor. See if it is the same distance on left and right sides.

Here is a video of me doing the exact test I describe.

[video]https://youtu.be/rllqQlfOWVk?t=9m8s[/video]

Make sure you have consistent air pressure (in the tires) from left to right side.

Let us know how the tests go...

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tim. I will try that tomorrow and report back.

Again. Nice videos. I believe in a video you said you bought your backhoe second hand?...if so any tips? The finance committee who is actually more me than wife couldn’t see it fitting into the budget when I bought the tractor but man after watching your videos I have so many projects I could use one for!


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Yesterday I decide to take loader off in my barn, solid flat concrete floor. Loader lifts right off. I feel pleased, so I lower it back to the mounts and same scenario as before. In fact I decided to leave it off and move the tractor. I measured from ground to the mounting point of each side and sure enough I get an inch of difference. So...I feel like it could be bent and I don’t see it my fault given the wear obviously used when I wasn’t here.
Hiya,

The bolded text above, did you measure the masts on the loader when it was parked or did you measure from the concrete floor to the mounting pads on the tractor? If you haven't, you should verify that the tractor is sitting level and the air pressure is correct in all 4 tires then measure from a flat surface to the mounting pads to make sure they are at the same height.

Tom
 

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Hiya,

The bolded text above, did you measure the masts on the loader when it was parked or did you measure from the concrete floor to the mounting pads on the tractor? If you haven't, you should verify that the tractor is sitting level and the air pressure is correct in all 4 tires then measure from a flat surface to the mounting pads to make sure they are at the same height.

Tom
Tom,

Good question. I measured in several different places. When I first tried this, the bucket cutting edge was off by an inch. I immediately panicked! Then, I realized that I had the backhoe attached, and leaned all the way to one side. I found that straightening the backhoe leveled it up. I also found that steering the front wheels made a difference.

Back to the measurements...I measured at the main loader masts (3 vertical bolts), I also measured at the round 'pipe' down near the 'curl hinge'.
During my panic stage, I was measuring the tractor frame, etc...anything I could find to diagnose what I was convinced was a major problem!

Truth is, I think the only thing that matters is that the cutting edge contacts the ground in a level fashion. If this is accurate, then everything else will be fine.

Just my opinion.

Again, everything was fine with my loader. Once I got everything 'symmetrical' on the tractor, it was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s been a while since I checked tire pressure. Big weather change since then. I’ll be looking at that first.


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Thanks Tim. I will try that tomorrow and report back.

Again. Nice videos. I believe in a video you said you bought your backhoe second hand?...if so any tips? The finance committee who is actually more me than wife couldn’t see it fitting into the budget when I bought the tractor but man after watching your videos I have so many projects I could use one for!


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I do have some advice. Be sure to do the transaction for used (but nearly new) Deere equipment at a Deere dealer. Even if the dealer charges $100 or so to make the transaction, you need to know that there is not a lien on the unit you are buying. I have always been nervous about that. Also, you'll know if it is stolen. Similar situation. If you take a stolen unit, or a lien defaulted unit to a Deere dealer for service, they will repossess that unit and leave you holding the proverbial bag.

It will likely be hard to find a 260 backhoe. You won't see many of them for sale, and when you do, you'll have the hassle of getting the subframe assembly, seat assembly, power beyond, etc installed on your tractor.

I am so thankful that we found this backhoe, because like you, I would not have bought one at full price. ...now that I have one, I would definitely buy one again.

"It beats a shovel" ...by a MILE!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Evening everyone. Spent some time on the tractor today shuffling the barn around. First thing was to put the loader on. It went on...”ok” kinda drove crooked into it and it went on ok.

So. I aired all 4 tires. Found a flat spot in my barn. And started measuring. Unfortunately the bad news is holding true. She is definitely “off”. I will post several pics. Again looking for feedback on any type of improvement I can make to my checking. I don’t want to cry wolf or storm to the dealership for no reason. I absolutely want my tractor to be right and my head crooked.

After I was done. I was reading my manual for h120. I realized I forgot my 50 hour “re-torque” on my mounting bolts. So that will be coming as I have to get to my parents tomorrow and borrow my dads large socket set. If my mount was loose I could see that causing a problem but it feels snug.

Keep in mind I sit behind a keyboard all week and farming is mostly in my blood. I am FAR from an expert but have done my share of work on machines big and small.

First pic is placement of level in bucket, second picture is result, third picture is proof of concrete level ness.

IMG_0405.jpg IMG_0406.jpg IMG_0408.jpg


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Discussion Starter #9
IMG_0414.jpg IMG_0418.jpg

Tractor was not moved at any time.


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Discussion Starter #10
IMG_0431.jpg IMG_0427.jpg IMG_0428.jpg IMG_0429.jpg

4x tire pressure.

Then an alternative gauge.
IMG_0422.jpg


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Discussion Starter #11
Last post.

No ballast. No extras. Empty tool box even.
IMG_0412.jpg IMG_0413.jpg

Level concrete.
Front
IMG_0409.jpg

Rear
IMG_0410.jpg

Thanks for anyone who views this and adds any thing to the conversation. Happy holidays to everyone out there.


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Personally I think you're worrying about something you don't need to worry about. Seriously. I don't say that to be mean or hurtful in any way. :flag_of_truce:

You won't notice that during operations even if you are final grading dirt. You'll never be perfect anyway, that's the nature of the beast.


However, if you are anal, like I am, you can tweak this. It's painful and not really worth the effort IMHO. You simply need to loosen the loader upright on the offending side(s), sit the loader level or as close as possible, then re-torque the bolts. No guarantees you can even make it perfect. It wouldn't surprise me if you came back and said you did this and made zero difference.

Several owners have reported this and have tried with varying levels of success. Good luck to you my friend. :good2:
 

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I have owned 7 John Deere loader tractors. None of the buckets were parallel with a flat floor including the 2025R I currently have.
I never saw it as a problem. Even if they came from the dealer perfectly parallel with the floor, as soon as I lift something that has more weight or lift on one side of the bucket, it will not be parallel any more.
 

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I have owned 7 John Deere loader tractors. None of the buckets were parallel with a flat floor including the 2025R I currently have.
I never saw it as a problem. Even if they came from the dealer perfectly parallel with the floor, as soon as I lift something that has more weight or lift on one side of the bucket, it will not be parallel any more.

This.


It's almost impossible for the loader to maintain perfect pressure across both cylinders when you factor in the hydraulic system design by JD.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Perhaps I’m being too anal about this. Just frustrated that my machine is under a year old and from the seat with the bucket in the air I can see a definite lean from side to side. Even if I’m not happy I’ll have to live with it. I would imagine since it’s been 6 months the dealership won’t help me.


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Perhaps I’m being too anal about this. Just frustrated that my machine is under a year old and from the seat with the bucket in the air I can see a definite lean from side to side. Even if I’m not happy I’ll have to live with it. I would imagine since it’s been 6 months the dealership won’t help me.
If it's possible, I think there are varying degrees of analness Before I get dog piled, let me explain.

To expect the loader to be perfectly square with the earth, I mean to the the point of using a feeler gauge to check is being anal. To expect the bucket to remove move snow from concrete without leaving 1.5 inches on the right and .75 on the left is NOT anal.

IMHO, it should be closer than that. My bucket had quite a bow noticeable in the cutting edge, with the center being .25" lower in the center than the ends (nothing as as bad as yours); I added a replaceable cutter from Deere and the bucket is straight from edge to edge that fixed my problems, but not all of yours. I did not want the center of the cutting edge to be gone before the ends. Here's the thread/post - http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/general-tractor-operation-ownership/29233-what-upgrades-have-you-done-like-2.html#post369746 about the process.

I think you can rule out points where errors may be hiding with a few more measurementst. I'm sure there are more places to measure but this list may help get you started:
  • measure the height from the floor to each cylinder pin or a frame location,
  • measure the length between the pins, e.g. curl cylinders, lift cylinders,
  • measure connection points at the mounting brackets, compare with the floor and tractor
  • measure various points on the loader itself, e.g. from the curl pin to the rear lift pivot
You're in virgin territory and are hunting for differences. Differences convert to information, with additional information then it may be possible to come up with solutions.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good evening everyone. I wanted to follow up with you all. Especially Those who supported.

I contacted JD and sent them the pictures got a response. They were behind schedule. They scheduled me in. Took tractor. They analyzed the loader confirmed it was a bent lower arm. They cut and re-welded from my observation which is no where near expert. They told me the bucket was bent and took no responsibility but I was fine with that. Brought it home. And it has been much better. Goes on and off much easier

Thanks for all the input guys. Appreciate everyone’s time. Got my first paying job this weekend with it. Looking forward to that!


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Good evening everyone. I wanted to follow up with you all. Especially Those who supported.

I contacted JD and sent them the pictures got a response. They were behind schedule. They scheduled me in. Took tractor. They analyzed the loader confirmed it was a bent lower arm. They cut and re-welded from my observation which is no where near expert. They told me the bucket was bent and took no responsibility but I was fine with that. Brought it home. And it has been much better. Goes on and off much easier

Thanks for all the input guys. Appreciate everyone’s time. Got my first paying job this weekend with it. Looking forward to that!


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Great news!
 

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