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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I got a CTC loader on the way. Just wondered what ballast I should do for it. I also use a snowblower, my property is ‘relatively’ flat for the most part.

I have the rear Click N Go bracket. And CTC day you can keep the deck on when you use the FEL, I don’t know how much use that is or if people prefer not to use.

If people suggest iMatch can you let me know what I’d need to get in terms of parts with that ie bushings 8 suitcase weights or whatever

Anyways,,,let the suggestions begin!
 

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Got any pics? Loader specs, weight etc. would help. I know they make weight brackets for the 7 series.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’ve the x758
And the FEL is the CTC loader
I know I’ve the do some work it it on the loader side, but wanted some suggestions on the ballast part
 

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I made my own ballast

99A1117A-EE17-47DD-9EBF-C6CB917190F0.jpeg

Or perhaps the fine people here can show you how to spend your money on boxes, or weights. There’s lots of threads related to ballast. Check them out, and I hope you find the right setup that works for you
 

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If you don't have a 3 pt hitch there's the click and go weight bracket that holds six 42 lb suitcase weights and you could also add wheel weights as well. I think there's a click and go ballast box but have no idea how much it could hold plus it might be a hassle taking it off with weight in it.

The ideal setup would be a 3 pt hitch, I-match and a heavy implement or weight bracket that could hold more than 6 weights.
 

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Based On the Older X700 series with 45 Loader You should Have Minimum of 750Ls of rear Ballast and that Can be a combination such as two 70LBs rear Cast Iron weight Plus the addition of 4 50Lbs cast Iron weights, Even liquid filled tires with Rim Guard and a Ballast Box with 450Lbs of Material. You Can get away with Less But to get the Best Performance Try to get 750LBs I usually run 2 72LBs Cast Iron weight(new weights are 70Lb) and at least 10 suitcase weight In a Ballast Box Plus about 2 40Lb Bags of sand so I have about 644Lbs. For Lite Material such as Mulch or snow You Can get away with 6 suitcase weights and two 50Lb wheel weight or even 6 suitcase weights alone But for Sand, Gravel and dirt, 600 Plus will really get You Great Performance and You Can shim You Valve to Get greater Lift https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/813130-shimming-more-psi.html I wouldn't exceed 1300 PSI thought the trans is rated for 1500PSI You Can then Get almost as Much Lift as a 120R Loader with a 49inch Bucket On a 1025R But You will need that 600Lbs Plus Ballast to Lift something That heavy. The 45 Loader On a X700 series with Out shimming Can Lift about 700Lbs to 36inches High With shimming You Can reach those Loads of 700 Plus to Max Height. BTW Deere does Make a Click N Go Ballast Box if You don't want to Invest In a Limited Cat 1 3 point Hitch :bigthumb:
 

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Main thing to think about with ballast are;

1. How easy is it to remove and put back on the tractor? This is where many ballast boxes have a real disadvantage as they are a lot of concentrated weight in a small, very heavy unit and very difficult to handle without either assistance or a hydraulic floor jack, etc. A 3ph with I Match is the best way to use a dedicated ballast box.

2. Does the ballast have other uses such as on implements, on the front of the tractor, etc? Suitcase weights are very handy to use on a variety of projects and ballast needs. They only weigh 42 pounds each, so they are easy to handle and add to individual implements to enhance their operations, such as thatch rakes, core aerators, etc.

3. If your machine was mine, I would add the cast iron rear wheel weights and the click and go rear weight bracket. Use suitcase weights to max out the weight bar's capacity.

4. If your budget permits, I would add the rear 3 point hitch kit to your tractor and then the Heavy Hitch rear 3 point weight bar and the suitcase weights. Heavy Hitch also makes a dolly cart with casters to make putting on and taking off the 3 point hitch weight bar as easy as could be.

5. You can add a 2" rear hitch receiver and then use the Heavy Hitch weight bar for the 2" receiver with the suitcase weights. You would need to determine if this was a better solution for you verses the "Click N Go" weight bracket from Deere. Use the suitcase weights on this for rear ballast and you have a great set up.

In order of ideal solutions, my selections would be in the following order;

Number 4 would be the first choice.

Number 5 would be my very close second choice. The only reason it's second is it sure would be handy to have the rear 3ph arms if in the budget as it opens you up to a wide range of other implement options, which dramatically expands the utility of and your use of your machine.

Number 3 would be my third choice

Number 1 would be last choice and only if I had no other options. Ballast boxes are single purpose implements and dang heavy to move being so small and so heavy. You need your FEL to move it, but that's putting the FEL before the ballast (like the cart ahead of the horse..:laugh:..)

Note All of my suggestions and options assume using the rear wheel weights on your machine in addition to the number option.

Under no circumstances would I ever use the tractor with the FEL without the proper rear ballast, regardless of the terrain, etc.


I would also suggest removing the MMM whenever using the FEL for work, as its very easy to get the MMM into dirt piles, knocked crooked, when driving on rough terrain, etc. The MMM hangs too low for you to not risk negative consequences. Please note, I am not saying that whenever the FEL is on the machine, the MMM has to be removed.

I am specifically talking about using the FEL to move dirt piles, mulch piles, carry loads, etc. and doing things which take you onto or through terrain which is rough and risks negaatively impacting the MMM. At a minimum, have the MMM raised into the highest park positon when its not in use and the FEL is on the tractor.
 

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I covered a lot of this in your other thread.

x758 CTC FEL Tree Spade

Being you have a 3pt I would go the heavy hitch route. For what it is worth I also use it in the winter when plowing or blowing. However I have noticed that 6 weights on a HH is a bit much and it can become harder to steer. So I will move 2 of the weights and hang them off the side of the Quick Attach on the front of the tractor and 4 on the HH. This gives the front end more bite and more weight to the machine in general which helps with clearing snow.

I should mention there are a few negatives to using the 3pt. Again, like with the mower deck, the 3pt will go up and down with the dump/curl action of the FEL. You have to remember to lock it out or it is moving around back there. Not a safety issue but if you set the weights down on the ground they are not doing any good. You wouldn't have that issue on a Click n Go weight bracket. Also the Click n Go likely sits closer to the machine. While it is true that having the weight at the end of the 3pt arms plus the iMatch plus the Heavy Hitch moves it way back and provides more leverage and more effective weight, the issue is that adds a lot of length to a machine. Depending on how tight to quarters are you are working in, this may or may not be an issue. Only you can answer that. The Click n Go is likely a much more compact solution if that is a concern for you.

Bottom line there are lots of options, everyone will have a reason theirs is the best but don't forget to look at it in your application. For me I woudn't do a ballast box but others love them and have modified them to carry other tools like rakes and shovels that they might be using when doing FEL work.

Also be sure to read that other thread where we were talking about the CTC FEL. I went over some modifications I made to mine and why. I have tweaked the bucket and frame on it and have beefed it up in various ways. There is a link to that thread in your original post. Also I would highly recommend adding a charging port or cable that is accessible with the hood down. With the CTC FEL on you can open the hood but only 1/2 way. That is enough to check oil but you can't get to the battery. If you have a dead battery and can't get to it you will have to get creative. Better yet, just install some power leads to the battery for a battery tender or small charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the comments.
Great stuff here
I have a 3 point hitch, so I was thinking, but tell me if I’m wrong,
iMatch
iMatch bushings (I think I need a pair? For each attachment, I don’t think you can transfer them to each attachment)
Heavy Hitch (to hold the suitcase weights)
Suitcase Weights
Rear wheel weights
I was going to get the HH cart also.

Sound decent?

The lock out valve I have is a round valve under the front right side near the hydraulic couplers, does this work as good as a lock out valve? I have it from factory as I have a 3PH and snowblower since purchase.

I was going to also buy the
THRV
Freewheel spindle
Shim kit and gauge (coming w the CTC)
 

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This may be an easy option for you... I just upgraded to a 3 pt hitch in the back. I have the Deere click n go ballast box. Excellent shape, only 1 year old. Located in RI. $150
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This may be an easy option for you... I just upgraded to a 3 pt hitch in the back. I have the Deere click n go ballast box. Excellent shape, only 1 year old. Located in RI. $150
Thanks for the shout out, but I think I like the idea of something I can load and unload with the 3 Pt hitch rather than putting my back in it, I’m not the biggest guy and my back and neck aren’t great so I think the combo of the HH with weights on the cart, and using the iMatch on the 3PH to back up into it and pick it up might be a good idea for me.

I can also use the same weights on the clock and go if needed. And on the front like the other guy suggested or other attachments

I just need to know what I need to order,
Is it the
iMatch
iMatch bushings for heavy Hitch
Heavy Hitch
Suitcase weights
Heavy Hitch cart

I already have the 3PH

Was thinking then of adding the rear only, wheel weights (not on front)
 

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You don't need the Imatch right away, having the Heavy Hitch and cart you can hook it up pretty easy. I just push it up to the tractor and mount it up.
 

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You don't need the Imatch right away, having the Heavy Hitch and cart you can hook it up pretty easy. I just push it up to the tractor and mount it up.
That is unless he already has some attachments for the 3pt. He did say he already has it for some reason but not sure what he is using it for. You don't have to have an iMatch but it is so much easier.

To cover his question about the bushings, while they can technically be moved from attachment to attachment, just get a pair for each attachment you have and be done with it. Way too much work to move them as they are pinned in place and not that expensive. I have a pair on my HH and a pair on my box grader.
 

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The lock out valve I have is a round valve under the front right side near the hydraulic couplers, does this work as good as a lock out valve? I have it from factory as I have a 3PH and snowblower since purchase.
The two things you may find yourself using are the round valve up under the right side by the hydraulic couplers and there is the 3pt limit adjustment at the back.

Keep in mind that the front round lockout will stop hydraulic pressure to the rear cylinder that lifts the mower deck and the 3pt hitch. This can be good. Lets say you are moving some heavy items around the shop and don't want to mess with removing the mower deck. Because you are not going cross country or over anything where the deck will get in the way, you can just leave it on. Well that lockout is how you can raise the deck and have it stay there and still be able to dump/curl with the bucket. Since you don't need the weights (3pt) going up and down this is fine for that as well.

Lets say you are doing things a little different. Since you are getting a Heavy Hitch you will see that they also have a 2" receiver as part of them. You may find it really handy when you are doing some work to have the ability to raise and lower that 3pt hitch while doing FEL work. Maybe you are spreading some mulch and you pointed out your yard is really flat. If you were careful you could back up to the trailer and hook it up by lowering your 3pt with the ball and then when in position just raising up the 3pt hitch. It is still advisable to latch it but I have seen plenty of people with really flat yards just move the trailer. Set it back down then go around and start picking up mulch again. In this case locking out with the front lockout wouldn't let you move the 3pt to do this so you are wrestling with the trailer to hook it up and move it. If you use your lower limit adjustment for the 3pt you can set it up so it lets the 3pt move up and down with the dump/curl function but not go so far to set the weight on the ground. I don't know that it would go down that far anyhow but if working on uneven terrain it might get in the way if too low. This is one of the bigger reasons I want to go up to a bigger machine. I want independent control over the 3pt hitch and am tired of it tied to the other hydraulics as we get with a H2 (2 hydraulic controls). Some people have gotten creative and made a H3 or H4 out of these machines by adding a joystick where the cup holder is. I have considered going that route but I think I want to go bigger.

Thanks for the shout out, but I think I like the idea of something I can load and unload with the 3 Pt hitch rather than putting my back in it, I’m not the biggest guy and my back and neck aren’t great so I think the combo of the HH with weights on the cart, and using the iMatch on the 3PH to back up into it and pick it up might be a good idea for me.
Since you are getting a HH and the cart here is what I do when I need to take my 3pt off (very rarely now). I will lift the 3pt up as high as it goes and put the cart in the 2" receiver of the HH. Then I set it down and rather than flipping the levers on the iMatch in your case, I pull the pins on the tractor side of the 3pt hitch. This disconnects all the arms from the tractor so that the cart is now supporting the heavy hitch, the suitcase weights, the (in your case) iMatch and 3PT arms. Now I can wheel the entire thing around the shop and put it aside for storage or whatever. I toss the pins in the little storage bin on the fender. This is not only easier in terms of not having to wrestle around the iMatch and other parts but keeps everything together. The cart from HH is very beefy and take the weight of the suitcase weights and the iMatch as well as the arms. The arms do hang off a bit but they do not make the cart tippy at all. You mentioned noting being very big with back and neck issues. I also have neck and shoulder issues and this makes the job much easier for me and keeps everything together. you may have to play with the length of the top link but other than that it is pretty easy.
 

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Thanks for all the comments.
Great stuff here
I have a 3 point hitch, so I was thinking, but tell me if I’m wrong,
iMatch
iMatch bushings (I think I need a pair? For each attachment, I don’t think you can transfer them to each attachment)
Heavy Hitch (to hold the suitcase weights)
Suitcase Weights
Rear wheel weights
I was going to get the HH cart also.

Sound decent?

The lock out valve I have is a round valve under the front right side near the hydraulic couplers, does this work as good as a lock out valve? I have it from factory as I have a 3PH and snowblower since purchase.

I was going to also buy the
THRV
Freewheel spindle
Shim kit and gauge (coming w the CTC)
On the factory 3 Point hitch You Need to Lock Up the 3 Point rocker- Shaft depth stop( to keep the Ballast from Moving UP & down The Factory Lock Out Valve is Not a true Lock out Valve Its a diverter Valve so Some Hydraulic Oil gets Past it as Deere doesn't want the cylinder to dry Out. So evem with the Valve closed Your 3point will continue to move(though slower) The 3 Point rocker- Shaft depth stop(threaded Rod On Left rear side) of rocker-shaft will lock the 3 point Up and Keep it from Moving BTW I suggest Investing In One of these Kits as well Curl Lockout Valve Aftermarket Front End Loaders On John Deere Garden Tractors It will allow You to leave the Loader On and Use the 3 point with Out the Bucket Dumping or re-setting when raising and Lowering the 3point :bigthumb:
 

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On the factory 3 Point hitch You Need to Lock Up the 3 Point rocker- Shaft depth stop( to keep the Ballast from Moving UP & down The Factory Lock Out Valve is Not a true Lock out Valve Its a diverter Valve so Some Hydraulic Oil gets Past it as Deere doesn't want the cylinder to dry Out. So evem with the Valve closed Your 3point will continue to move(though slower) The 3 Point rocker- Shaft depth stop(threaded Rod On Left rear side) of rocker-shaft will lock the 3 point Up and Keep it from Moving BTW I suggest Investing In One of these Kits as well Curl Lockout Valve Aftermarket Front End Loaders On John Deere Garden Tractors It will allow You to leave the Loader On and Use the 3 point with Out the Bucket Dumping or re-setting when raising and Lowering the 3point :bigthumb:
Yeah that threaded rod is what I was talking about in terms of the lower limit for the 3pt. While it sucks to turn that dumb threaded rod constantly it is the best way I have found to limit the movement of the 3pt. As you mentioned it still moves a bit with the front lockout, locked out.

Another reason for that lockout on the front is if you don't turn it. I find I am waiting for the dump and curl function longer. It has to pressurize the entire system so you are waiting for 3 cylinders (2 on FEL and the rocker shaft on the tractor for the deck/3pt).

I haven't seen that curl lockout valve before. That is kind of interesting. So I take it that you would install this on the FEL. Where having the dump curl tied to the 3pt is really a pain in the rear is when I am doing work with the box grader. I will use the FEL to carry dirt to the area I am working and then have to mess with the dump/curl to get the box blade up and down when working with that. Where it really sucks is when you are trying to dump as you move like when spreading dirt. It will drop the blade when you may not want to. Sure I can get off and adjust the lower limit but when I go from dumping dirt to spreading it with the box blade I need the range of motion. Like I said, this is one of the things that bug me the most about FEL work on a X series and a big reason to look at moving up to a 1 Series or bigger machine if doing a lot of FEL work. The other being it is much easier with the auto connect decks and a FEL that is easier to take off and put on. I solved that for now by getting a dedicated mower and leave the FEL on all the time unless it is winter and I am dealing with snow.

One thing I was thinking about to make the lower limit adjustment easier was to get one of the drill adapters that people use for some camper stabilizer jacks. Our camper has the 3/4" bolt style but some are the T style which would be very similar to what the threaded rod is on my X585. Not sure if it is the same on the newer X7xx.

One of these.

Amazon.com: BAL R.V. Products Group 21100003 Cordless Drill Adapter: Automotive

If you did this you want to make sure the 3pt is all the way up when making adjustments and I would use a drill with a clutch set to a very weak setting. Like 1 or 2. You don't want to torque anything down like with an impact drill or break the pin off. It is just that it is a little hard to get my hand in there and I crank and crank turning this threaded rod which isn't easy to hang on to or get my hand in there. Not to mention I don't adjust it often enough to remember which way to turn it and it will just spin and spin and not do anything if turning it the wrong way. You can't tell if your turning of the rod did anything until you try and move it. Never personally tried this but I have been thinking about ordering one to make this a little easier.
 

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Yeah that threaded rod is what I was talking about in terms of the lower limit for the 3pt. While it sucks to turn that dumb threaded rod constantly it is the best way I have found to limit the movement of the 3pt. As you mentioned it still moves a bit with the front lockout, locked out.

Another reason for that lockout on the front is if you don't turn it. I find I am waiting for the dump and curl function longer. It has to pressurize the entire system so you are waiting for 3 cylinders (2 on FEL and the rocker shaft on the tractor for the deck/3pt).

I haven't seen that curl lockout valve before. That is kind of interesting. So I take it that you would install this on the FEL. Where having the dump curl tied to the 3pt is really a pain in the rear is when I am doing work with the box grader. I will use the FEL to carry dirt to the area I am working and then have to mess with the dump/curl to get the box blade up and down when working with that. Where it really sucks is when you are trying to dump as you move like when spreading dirt. It will drop the blade when you may not want to. Sure I can get off and adjust the lower limit but when I go from dumping dirt to spreading it with the box blade I need the range of motion. Like I said, this is one of the things that bug me the most about FEL work on a X series and a big reason to look at moving up to a 1 Series or bigger machine if doing a lot of FEL work. The other being it is much easier with the auto connect decks and a FEL that is easier to take off and put on. I solved that for now by getting a dedicated mower and leave the FEL on all the time unless it is winter and I am dealing with snow.

One thing I was thinking about to make the lower limit adjustment easier was to get one of the drill adapters that people use for some camper stabilizer jacks. Our camper has the 3/4" bolt style but some are the T style which would be very similar to what the threaded rod is on my X585. Not sure if it is the same on the newer X7xx.

One of these.

Amazon.com: BAL R.V. Products Group 21100003 Cordless Drill Adapter: Automotive

If you did this you want to make sure the 3pt is all the way up when making adjustments and I would use a drill with a clutch set to a very weak setting. Like 1 or 2. You don't want to torque anything down like with an impact drill or break the pin off. It is just that it is a little hard to get my hand in there and I crank and crank turning this threaded rod which isn't easy to hang on to or get my hand in there. Not to mention I don't adjust it often enough to remember which way to turn it and it will just spin and spin and not do anything if turning it the wrong way. You can't tell if your turning of the rod did anything until you try and move it. Never personally tried this but I have been thinking about ordering one to make this a little easier.
Well I Bought the Curl Lock out This Past winter Finally installed it about a a month ago On the 45 Loader. In Spring and summer since Last year I leave the X748 set Up with Loader and 3 Point Hitch The X748 has Become more of a Small Utility Tractor. Because right Now I have the 2025R set Up In Backhoe Mode. It's Not always fun To Have to worry about the Backhoe when working In Tight areas(yes I could take it off and Put it On the dolly) But since I have the X748 I can Just use it for the every day Loader Projects such as Moving Mulch Or Moving dirt that I just dug Up with the Backhoe While leavening the 2025R In it spot to continue digging.

But the Curl valve is great. It so nice To be able to leave the Loader On and Go till the Garden or Grade something with the rear Blade and Not Having to worry if I have set the Loader arms High enough so the Bucket will clear the Ground when It dumps and Curls when running the 3point Plus the Curl Valve Helps with the speed of the 3 point Hitch so I am Not robbing the On Board Hydraulic cylinder Having to actually do two Operations at once. BTW thanks for the Idea Amazon.com: BAL R.V. Products Group 21100003 Cordless Drill Adapter: Automotive I think I will have to try that But I'll have to Put the spring Pin Back in . I have a Key ring In My thread rod Currently which allows to to get about 2 More revolutions On the thread rod so that the Bolt Is tight against the rocker shaft . That's is the One thing I Like about the Simplicity Legacy XL You flip a electric diverter/ Lock Valve switch so You don't Need to worry about adjusting a Threaded rod to Keep the 3 point Up:bigthumb:
 

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BTW thanks for the Idea Amazon.com: BAL R.V. Products Group 21100003 Cordless Drill Adapter: Automotive I think I will have to try that But I'll have to Put the spring Pin Back in . I have a Key ring In My thread rod Currently which allows to to get about 2 More revolutions On the thread rod so that the Bolt Is tight against the rocker shaft . That's is the One thing I Like about the Simplicity Legacy XL You flip a electric diverter/ Lock Valve switch so You don't Need to worry about adjusting a Threaded rod to Keep the 3 point Up:bigthumb:
Like I said I haven't tried it but I think it will work. You will just have to play with the clutch a bit on the drill. I would be concerned about breaking the spring pin if it is bound up too much from lack of use. I haven't personally tried it yet but I should just add it to my cart in Amazon for the next time I place an order. I always do that where I am ordering something and sit there thinking if there is anything else I need and don't think of it until 5 minutes later after I place the order. The only gotcha I can think of is if the threaded rod is too thick to fit inside the opening. Like I mentioned our camper has the 3/4" style and I am not sure which ones use the spring pin but maybe it is a thinner threaded rod on those. :dunno: Worth a shot.

I have thought about doing some form of lockout for the Rock Shaft like what you posted a link to. That turns into doing a full H3 conversion, and that turns into heck I will just get a new tractor once the ZTrak is paid off.

I can see the advantage to keeping a small X Series with FEL vs a bigger machine. That is one concern I have if I do end up going to the 3025E. Additional lifting capability would be nice but it is a bigger machine and not as maneuverable. Part of the sales pitch to the CFO will be, "You know the kids are getting older where they can operate the tractor and I don't know if I want them learning to use a FEL without a ROPS." If we sell the X585 and all attachments it will fund about half the cost of a 3025E and the attachments I would need there and the payment is less than what we are making on the Z950R right now which we are used to making.

Since turning the X585 into a dedicated FEL machine 9 month out of the year, I will say I use the FEL a lot more. Before I would always have to ask myself if it was worth putting on the FEL and taking it back off to move this heavy thing. Many times I wouldn't take the 10-15 minutes that it takes to put it on and take off. Or more if I was messing with the mower deck since I don't have a drive over. Now it is there and I just turn the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi,

Can someone tell me if this would be a better option than the heavy hitch with suitcase weights and the rear wheel weights combo.
Instead of rear wheel weights I see Heavy Hitch have a dual weight hitch, it can load up to 16 suitcase weights...... and everyone says the weight on the 3PH is better counter ballast than the weights on the wheels.

So would the cat 1 heavy hitch with dual weight brackets be better than a combo of a single hitch with weights AND the rear wheel weights?

Does the cat 1 Heavy Hitch dual hold the John Deere 42lb weights or do they have to be Heavy Hitch brand 41lb ones?

If I dont get the iMatch, but just get the Heavy Hitch and the Hitch cart, someone said earlier just wheel the cart up to it and mount it, will it mount fine no issues? I cant put my back into it, so I am hoping you can just drop the heavy hitch onto the cart from lowering the 3PH.

Hoping thats it for ballast questions....I do have the rear click and go if you think I should mount some there, but if its better counter ballast to have them further back on the heavy hitch then maybe the dual is the way to go

Lastly.....is this a lock out valve? Or will I need to order yet more parts? Heres what I have on order, I dont want to screw this up and forget something

CTC loader
Shim kit and Pressure Gauge
THRV BW15044
Free Wheeling Valve Control Lever M146148

And heres what else I can add to that pending what you all think
Heavy Hitch Cat 1 Dual Hitch
Suitcase weights #amount?
Heavy Hitch Cart
Deere iMatch?? And if so a pair of iMatch bushings

I took a pic also of what I think is my hydraulic diverter, its behind my hydraulic lines (arrow) not sure if this will suffice or people are saying switch this one with a true lock out valve, or if that was back at the 3PH....im sorry guys, im so friggin lost to be honest...sorry
 

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