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Hello Everyone,

I'm thinking of getting a dump trailer for the farm, as we always need gravel, dirt, firewood, or boulders moved. I was looking at the ones that have slide out ramps, as well as the side stow ramps. Has anyone transported their 3R series tractor with a dump trailer before?

Any recommendations on what type of ramps to get if I do get a dump trailer?

I am also considering a 14ft or 16ft. I would like to be able to transport it with the loader bucket and backhoe attached. I think the 14 might be slightly too short.

Any advice would be great! Thanks in advanced.
 

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I don't have a dump trailer but I do have a 3 series with a backhoe.

I believe you'll need at least a 16 foot trailer and you won't have much wiggle room to balance the load for tongue weight.

You are looking at some weight back there between the trailer and the tractor.

What are you planning on towing it with?
 

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I don't have a dump trailer but I do have a 3 series with a backhoe.

I believe you'll need at least a 16 foot trailer and you won't have much wiggle room to balance the load for tongue weight.

You are looking at some weight back there between the trailer and the tractor.

What are you planning on towing it with?
This was my thought, IIRC there was a thread, maybe the one above that detailed the length of a 2 or 3 series TLB, and the machine itself was something like 17’ long, not including and additional implements (box blade/tiller/etc, or loader tools forks/grapple/etc. The consensus was that something like a 20’ trailer was necessary just to have room to balance the load appropriately and longer was needed to haul extra stuff that I mentioned. Trailers to haul these machines get big pretty quick. :gizmo:
 

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Some...not all dump trailers have the axles set to the rear...This would help.

Can you lift the loader over the front of dump box to gain some room?

Going to a long dump trailer is going to bump the GVWR a bunch...and perhaps put you in a catagory you'd rather not be in.

Sales "person" may or might probly not educate you before you get your wallet out.

Dump trailers are extremely expensive up Here in OR.....Do you "really" need a dump trailer?

Ramps are a PITA...I'm done with them regardless of where they are stowed.
 

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I will just answer the ramp question. I have a PJ dump with slide out ramps and I really like them because they are right where I want them. I just slide them out and hook them up and they are heavy enough I don’t want to carry them. I would think picking them up on the side would be a pain in the butt.
 

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3720 TLB (same size as a 3046) on a 16’ trailer. My next one will be 18’ or 20’.
 

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3046R on an 18' Baron car carrier with 7-8,000 pound capacity. I have a 12' Parker tandem 10,000 pound dump trailer that I MUCH prefer using to trailer the 3046R (sorry no picture). I pull the trailers with my Ford F350 King Ranch single rear wheel with integrated trailer brake controls and engine/transmission breaking.

The car carrier has more room, but feels much less capable. When trailering on the 18' Baron car carrier, I do NOT have anything else on the car carrier trailer other than the 3046R with FEL/HD bucket. On the Parker dump trailer, I put everything in the box with the 3046R; heavy hitch, 8x 70 pound suitcase weights, 2x 5-gallon diesel cans, HD trailer ramps, trailer dross bar, etc and it rides so nice and secure. I extend the HD bucket over the front edge of the dump box which 1) makes the ride more secure, 2) transfers a little more weight forward in the box, and 3) blocks wind from hitting the tractor/hood.

The trailer ramps mount underneath the box on the dump trailer. I welded some brackets to the bottom side and they slide in/out without issue when the box is raised about 2 feet. The ramps are out of sight and secure and are not targets for thieves. If using the ramps with a load, just need to remember to remove the ramps first which you will naturally do because you needed the ramps to load your equipment up into the trailer. I simply throw the ramps into the back of the dump box or put in the back of my F350 truck.

Ramps are aluminum 10,000 pounds per axle pin-on ramp ends (I welded troughs with pin receivers onto trailer body gate end - you want that ramp securely held on dump trailer when three feet in air loading/unloading):
7' 6" L x 14" W x 4-1/4" H Aluminum Ramps with Pin-On Ends - 10,000 per axle Cap | Discount Ramps


On Trailer at House 20170313_154927.jpg

On Trailer 20170314_114707.jpg
 

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Get a B-wise like Tim!
Hydraulic ramp/tailgate makes loading a breeze!

I'd guess you would need at least a 16'.
You can go up to a triple axle with that, but I've heard tire scuffing in axle issues with those, especially if you do a lot of tight maneuvering.
 

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I will just answer the ramp question. I have a PJ dump with slide out ramps and I really like them because they are right where I want them. I just slide them out and hook them up and they are heavy enough I don’t want to carry them. I would think picking them up on the side would be a pain in the butt.
I can answer that question for you.

Yes, it is a pain in the butt.

My ramps store under the trailer from the side.

I would much prefer to just slide time in from the back.
 

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I like dump trailers. They kill two birds with one stone. I feel like they put all other trailers to shame. Load trail makes a very good trailer. PJ is good too, IIRC load trail was PJ before PJ broke up. The other brother then made load trail and the factories were right beside each other.
I can haul 4 cords in mine. It’s way overweight, even with the triples. 16’ would be the minimum, 20’ is better for the 3046. I have a triple axle gooseneck dump. When I load just the tractor I put the bucket on top of the hitch.

I’ve also loaded it with dirt multiple times and then loaded the old 1025 on top of the dirt. I recommend the gooseneck.




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I’ve also loaded it with dirt multiple times and then loaded the old 1025 on top of the dirt. I recommend the gooseneck.




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That's got to be WAY overweight! :hide:

Any issues with the triple axle? I've heard mixed reviews on tire scuffing, bent axles, and wrecked hubs when turning loaded.
 

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That's got to be WAY overweight! :hide:

Any issues with the triple axle? I've heard mixed reviews on tire scuffing, bent axles, and wrecked hubs when turning loaded.
No issues as long as you take care when turning. You just have to remember that you can’t turn sharp like when you only have two axles. I had to go with the triple because of the weight I carry.


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To the OP, I've been wondering the same question question and if it's possible to even fit the 3 series TLB in a dump trailer and if it's smart. At the end of the day I kept thinking that there will be a time I pickup a rear brush mower or forks or any other number of attachments that stick out farther than the bucket or backhoe, which means a trailer that's maxed with a TLB won't ever fit anything larger.

As convenient as it would be to have a dump trailer to do it all I don't think a tractor that size belongs in the dump. You're better of using a landscape trailer to transport and a dump trailer to move the material.
 

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At the end of the day I kept thinking that there will be a time I pickup a rear brush mower or forks or any other number of attachments that stick out farther than the bucket or backhoe, which means a trailer that's maxed with a TLB won't ever fit anything larger.
For my needs I would not want to be without a flat deck trailer.

I can see where it would be nice to move the TLB in the dump trailer to a work site where you need both.

I don't have the truck to pull a dump trailer that has the capacity to load a 3 series TLB. I would be giving up a lot of capacity in trailer weight. I could likely haul more cargo weight in a smaller dump trailer.

This is why I asked the OP what he was using as a tow vehicle.
 

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To the OP, I've been wondering the same question question and if it's possible to even fit the 3 series TLB in a dump trailer and if it's smart. At the end of the day I kept thinking that there will be a time I pickup a rear brush mower or forks or any other number of attachments that stick out farther than the bucket or backhoe, which means a trailer that's maxed with a TLB won't ever fit anything larger.

As convenient as it would be to have a dump trailer to do it all I don't think a tractor that size belongs in the dump. You're better of using a landscape trailer to transport and a dump trailer to move the material.
With my 16’ dump I have the same amount of rear hangover with the rotary cutter as I did with the 20’ landscape trailer. With the dump I put the loader on top of the neck but with the landscape trailer I could not so the loader was inside the trailer which eats up space.

On the dump I simply put a small strap on the rear doors to hold them closed against the cutter. So, it is possible and it is smart. The dump that I have has a much stronger deck than any landscape trailer out there and the D rings are much stronger. With it being a gooseneck it pulls so much better than a bumper pull and I don’t have to worry as much about balancing the load as I would if it was a bumper pull.

The one and only downside to using a dump trailer is that the deck is metal and gets slippery when wet. This is very easy to overcome with wood or abrasive pads laid down.


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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I don't have a dump trailer but I do have a 3 series with a backhoe.

I believe you'll need at least a 16 foot trailer and you won't have much wiggle room to balance the load for tongue weight.

You are looking at some weight back there between the trailer and the tractor.

What are you planning on towing it with?
My wife and I have been bouncing the idea of getting a trailer and a 1 ton silverado. We have just a 1500 right now, but if we make a trailer purchase we are also going to get a truck.

We have been helping our neighbor on a much larger farm that ours for the past three years, and I think it is getting to the point, that i'm no longer comfortable towing some of the equipment with my 1500.

It is mostly implements with hazard lights on 2 - 4 miles down the road to fields leased, but still the wear and tear is no good.

In terms of the trailer, I was hoping to go the route of one size fits all thing. We originally talked about getting a smaller dump trailer 12 - 14 foot, and then a 18 ft equipment hauler, but after much talk we didn't think we would be able to justify the 18ft equipment trailer, as we only have the need to take the 3046r somewhere once or twice a year if that. Where a dump trailer we can use to haul grain to the elevator, gravel for all our access roads, firewood for the maple syrup evaporate ect. Therefore it was a hope and a dream to buy one trailer of the dump variety, and get the bonus of being able to take the 3046r somewhere if need be.
 

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I don't know jack about dump trailers, but we had some concrete work done a few years back, and the contractors had a dump trailer. They just tilted the dump bed and drove their skid steer in and out of the trailer. They said that was their favorite part of the trailer because they didn't need ramps. So as I was reading thru this thread I was wondering way nobody brought that aspect up. Maybe not all dump trailers can pull this off? :dunno:

Steve
 

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I don't know jack about dump trailers, but we had some concrete work done a few years back, and the contractors had a dump trailer. They just tilted the dump bed and drove their skid steer in and out of the trailer. They said that was their favorite part of the trailer because they didn't need ramps. So as I was reading thru this thread I was wondering way nobody brought that aspect up. Maybe not all dump trailers can pull this off? :dunno:

Steve

I have a dump and I run my skid in and out but on ramps. With the trailer dumped far enough to get it in I would be afraid of a wet spot on the floor and it chasing me back down when I got out of it. It would also be very hard on the hitch and frame with than much weight loss pn the very back. Mine has drop legs at the rear to support it when loading heavy items.
 

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I don't have a 3 series tractor so I don't know the length of it with attachments. I have a X738 with a 45 loader and a landscape rake I have transported in my 14' Iron Bull dump trailer. The back doors just close with everything moved all the way to the front so the machine and implements are 14' long including the 3pt hitch and I-match with Heavy Hitch in the middle. I have also transported a 1025r TLB in it. It is an extremely well built trailer. One of the owners of PJ trailers builds them in TX and it was better priced than a PJ trailer.

A couple of thoughts. First I bought a low height trailer. This means the deck of the trailer is only 24" from the ground. Loading angle is better than a standard trailer which is 26" or taller. I would suggest you get a 16' trailer as long as implements and tractor will fit length wise. Mine is a bumper pull and I have never tried or needed to pull the tractor with the loader over the front of the box. I pull with a 06 Ram2500 diesel. A 1500 won't pull your dump trailer with any kind of load in it. My trailer with dirt in it has weighed on the scales at 15,000 lbs. that was actually 500 lbs over weight. I use a Weight Safe hitch and the tongue weight was only 1000 lbs so the trailer was well balanced for pulling. I didn't realize I was over weight until I got on the scales.

I have had so many people over the past two years who own dump trailers tell me how much they like my trailer. It is better built than most of the trailers out there. It's details that really make the trailer. Having the tarp in a housing at the front of the trailer instead of exposed to the sun and elements all the time is one. Slide out ramps at the back are the only way to go unless you like carrying very heavy ramps around, I don't.

The dealer installed a spare tire using bolts through the frame and the bolts pulled out and spider cracked the frame. This wasn't a weakness of the frame. It was a very heavy spare bouncing on loose bolts that caused the damage. My dealer sanded, welded the holes closed, and welded the frame for a perfect repair. Then they welded the spare mount directly to the frame. No problems since so don't use bolts.

Look for a trailer with all the electrical protected. Also my trailer has like 20 zerk fittings to grease every moving part. Takes 15 minutes every spring and fall to grease them all. This means hinges and moving parts don't wear out or make noise.

My trailer came with a HD 12k lbs jack. I hated cranking that thing 200 times to get it to move 3" up. No joke, it's like 80 revolutions per inch. I thought I was going to wear out my rotator cuff cranking that jack. I spent $900 on replacing it with a 12k lbs hydraulic jack that freaking rocks! Press the button and your off the hitch in 4 seconds. I can lift the tongue 26" with the jack in 6 seconds so no need to have any kind of block under it. It uses the same pump as the trailer. Every dump trailer should have one.

My trailer two years ago cost me $8,100 out the door and with the jack I'm right at $9k. That included an extra toolbox mounted to the front. I like the size of it but you will probably need a longer trailer. This was not the most expensive trailer its size in my area but I don't believe there is a better trailer. I have been told the less expensive trailers do not hold up as well.
 

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