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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those who may be looking for a block heater for the 2520, I did some research and found the Zerostart equivalent to the JD part. I got it online at less than 1/3 the JD price. The Zerostart part is #3100003 for my engine (2011 2520). It is equivalent (I believe the exact part) to the John Deere part number AR87167.


Cable Wire Technology Electronic device Hdmi


Cable Wire Electronic device Technology Electronics accessory


Hope this helps anyone looking for a 2520 block heater.


Cheers,

JDDave
 

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Great Find Dave!

Thank you for the tip. Are you going to show us how the install goes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Kenny. I did find this catalog but didn't see the exact cross reference to my Deere or Yanmar engine. I emailed Zerostart to get the number.

I started the 2520 in 21 degree temperature today and it took a fair amount of cranking to get started (I don't have the block heat installed yet). So it will be interesting to see how it does with the block heater.

JDDave
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Block Heater Install

I was able to do the install today. The instructions say to drain the coolant first but I chose to do the quick switch method (pull the plug, insert the heater). I didn't loose much coolant.

Here goes:

Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Engine Machine

Before the install

Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Engine Machine

Pulled the relay and fuse holder out of the way. Also removed the hydraulic suction hose and alternator battery line (after disconnecting the battery of course).

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Readied the block heater with teflon tape

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Inserted 1/2" drive into the block plug

Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Engine Machine

Couldn't budge the block plug with the ratchet. Needed a breaker bar.

Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Engine Machine

QUICKLY inserted the block heater. I positioned it so the power cord would route nicely toward the rear of the tractor. It can also be inserted to route toward the front of the tractor - more about this later.

Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Engine Machine

I inserted the block heater cord, re-attached the hydraulic suction hose and alternator battery line.

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Here's what the finished product looks like. I didn't have any corrugated conduit to protect the 110V cord, but I will add that later.

Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Automotive fuel system

I routed the plug end of the cord to the space under the fuel tank (out of the engine compartment). It will be handy to retrieve from here.

If anyone has the official JD install instructions I would be interested whether they suggest routing the cord to the front of the tractor, or somewhere else. Please advise if you know.

JDDave
 

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Great tutorial Dave, that will surely help someone in the future:thumbup1gif:
 

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If anyone has the official JD install instructions I would be interested whether they suggest routing the cord to the front of the tractor, or somewhere else. Please advise if you know.
Hey Dave
Great presentation!:good2:
As for the cord,mine is a JD heater,installed by my dealer.
The cord is very short. Where it disappears under the hood is basically all the longer it is.

Greg
 

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Very well done Dave!

Thank you for the update. Looks like she'll start in cold weather now. You gonna do anything for the tranny?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Dave
Great presentation!:good2:
As for the cord,mine is a JD heater,installed by my dealer.
The cord is very short. Where it disappears under the hood is basically all the longer it is.

Greg
Thanks Greg for showing how the dealer one is installed. Good to know. My cord is about 3' long. So I can either take advantage and route it somewhere convenient, or coil it up I suppose.

JDDave
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You gonna do anything for the tranny?
Randy, I'd be curious what the options are to heat the transaxle - but I don't think I'll go that far. I could be wrong, but I don't see the advantage.

For the engine, where it starts faster and at a warmer temperature, it make sense there is less wear and tear on the engine.

For the hydraulics, I don't see why the hydraulics should care about the temperature. What's the advantage of heating it? Is it a matter of running sluggish or something at cold temperature?

JDDave
 

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Randy, I'd be curious what the options are to heat the transaxle JDDave
JDDave, we used these in Alaska to heat anything from transmissions to batteries.

silicone oil pad heaters

All of my vehicles still have them. My truck for example has a 1000 watt block heater, 2 60 watt oil pan heaters, 1 60 watt oil pan heater on the transmission, and a trickle charger for the batteries. I used to have battery pads but a charged battery won't freeze. A fully charged battery was great for cold starting. My wife's car had a little interior heater too. It prevented the seats from turning into cold stone.:laugh:
 

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Block Heater Install

I purchased the Zero-Start block heater and have been trying to remove the factory plug.
I have 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar and I put a 12" pipe extension on that and can't get the plug to budge.
I also have a 1/2" Impact gun running on 175PSI air pressure and that could not budge the plug loose.

This was on a cold engine, would a hot engine make it easier???
I work on cars a lot and never had to go that that extreme.
Other thought was to trying heating up plug with a small torch, idea here is to heat plug and NOT the engine.

Any thoughts???

Last winter had several very cold starts which engine started fine but oil pressure was slow to build up and Transmission really was noisy until entire Tractor warmed up.
I also purchases a stick on oil pan heater and JD Transmission heater AR94494 -- both were easy installs
The oil pan heater will keep the engine oil warm, the transmission heater simple takes the place of the rear drain plug in the screen cover.
I am hoping with a warm engine and transmission I can avoid the cold starts and some "startup wear"

I think the block heater is redundant here BUT for $35 I could not pass it up. Also it saved me $20 from purchasing the JD power cord for the trans heater.
I took the block heater cord and found an after market copy for $3.00


Thanks
Paul
 

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I purchased the Zero-Start block heater and have been trying to remove the factory plug.
I have 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar and I put a 12" pipe extension on that and can't get the plug to budge.
I also have a 1/2" Impact gun running on 175PSI air pressure and that could not budge the plug loose.

This was on a cold engine, would a hot engine make it easier???
I work on cars a lot and never had to go that that extreme.
Other thought was to trying heating up plug with a small torch, idea here is to heat plug and NOT the engine.

Any thoughts???
I have a 2720 and also had thoughts of installing the block heater. I purchased the JD part (same as Zero-Start). Like you, I failed miserably. It first made a mockery of my 1/2" impact gun so I whiped out the breaker bar and 'ahem' 5-foot cheater pipe. It required a short extension to get the breaker bar handle such that it could be turned. Well, it didn't matter because it snapped off my Craftsman extension like a twig.

I finally threw in the towel before I ended up breaking something (like the engine block).

We had mornings last winter down to 6-degrees and the 2720 fired right up in my unheated garage. Sure it stumbled for a few seconds but it smoothed out rather quickly.

Final score: Block Heater:1 Me:0
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As I explained in my original post I had to resort to a breaker bar with mine. It was very hard to budge. I like your idea about heating the engine up first. This should go a long way in expanding the threaded hole, and should make it easier to move.

Heating the plug makes no sense to me. Other than weakening the metal-to-metal contact (minor influence), it will expand the plug in the hole. This will be working against you.
 

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I bought this heater and have been debating the warm up as well after all the horror stories on here about force needed. I will report my efforts when I take the plunge. I have been thinking maybe I will just turn on the 155k btu torpedo heater for 15 min before I start it up instead, if I cracked the block it would ruin me.
 

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I put the zerostart heater in my 2004 4310 a few weeks ago. I was lucky that It only took a moderate amount of force with a breaker bar. I did it with a cold engine and no torch.

The guy in the build thread that i was reading before I installed mine used a propane torch and an impact wrench to loosen the plug. It seems some of these plugs are quite stubborn.
 

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I would suggest spraying penetrating oil on the plug first and let it soak in overnight then start the engine and warm it up good then shut it down and respray the plug with penetrating oil again and allow it to settle over night again. Lastly, warm the engine up again then shut it down and try removing the plug. Hopefully it will come out now without having to resort to a cheater bar. You sure eon't want to break the block or crack it in any way. Look for a high quality penetrating oil designed to loosen frozen or rusted bolts rather than a general purpose thin oil like WD40 meant to displace water as its primary function.
 

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Installed my block heater last night. Shot it with Sili Kroil a couple times over the weekend and it came out easily with a short breaker bar. Unfortunately it looks like I may need it in the next week.
 
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