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I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me find the following bolt sizes for my 1025r

The wheel bolts
The bolt that attaches the 3 bushel bagger to the hitch plate

The dealer was unable to help, I could not find it on JD part and I don't have anything with enough precision to measure.
 

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Are you looking for the bolt diameter, thread pitch, and length? Or the size wrench/socket that fits them?

Here is the rear wheel bolts:
LVU23280.JPG

When JDP does not list the details in the regular parts breakdown, copy the part number then go to the JDP home page (you must be logged in) and paste the part number here:
JDP Search.JPG

I also think you can do it from your shopping cart as well. If you still need help post the part numbers please, I really have no clue what bolts you mean on the bagger.
 

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Thanks Kenny

I am not sure how my dealer was not able to find this when with minimal knowledge and your help I was able to track down the info (I think). I was looking for the wrench size and think I got it. 19mm for the wheels and 30mm for the hopper bolt.

For some reason when I searched the model numbers I had I was not able to find it, but I eventually stumbled on this. 27 and 29 where the bolts I was referencing assuming I found the right hopper system.

hopper.jpg

Thanks for the help
 

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Thanks Kenny

I am not sure how my dealer was not able to find this when with minimal knowledge and your help I was able to track down the info (I think). I was looking for the wrench size and think I got it. 19mm for the wheels and 30mm for the hopper bolt.

For some reason when I searched the model numbers I had I was not able to find it, but I eventually stumbled on this. 27 and 29 where the bolts I was referencing assuming I found the right hopper system.

View attachment 26426

Thanks for the help
Over the years I've seen some of the parts personal , can find anything and everything just in a matter of minutes. Go back to the same dealer next day , a different person working the counter and has no clue .
I have learned through this site with Kennyd and others for a lot of great info .
When I find a parts person that knows what he is doing I start asking questions.
 

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Over the years I've seen some of the parts personal , can find anything and everything just in a matter of minutes. Go back to the same dealer next day , a different person working the counter and has no clue .
I have learned through this site with Kennyd and others for a lot of great info .
When I find a parts person that knows what he is doing I start asking questions.
When I worked on cars I would have to go to Ford dealer every once and awhile to get parts. Don was the man. He could quote part numbers from parts books that not been printed for 20 years. He was a true master.

I had to get a new vent actuator for the HVAC system on my TrailBlazer and I told the parts guy I need the servo that controls where the air comes out and just got a blank stare back. After a few uncomfortable moments the kid behind the counter asked if I meant actuator. I said yes the servo. All they can do is read a screen they have no idea what a part actually is. Boy times have changed.
 

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The bolts are metric? I would have thought standard.
Page kennyd posted shows, English,,,,Not metric.. I knew the size this past summer when I was getting my wheel spacers, won't say now.
 

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19mm is less than 2 thou under 3/4" (.74803 vs .750)

30mm is close to 1 3/16 but difference is bigger, a little more than 6 thou (1.1811 vs 1.1875)
 

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19mm is less than 2 thou under 3/4" (.74803 vs .750)

30mm is close to 1 3/16 but difference is bigger, a little more than 6 thou (1.1811 vs 1.1875)
Too much math! Now I know why so many people break out the Standard/Metric Adjustable Wrench (aka Crescent). :tongue:
 

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Are you looking for the bolt diameter, thread pitch, and length? Or the size wrench/socket that fits them?

Here is the rear wheel bolts:
View attachment 26419

When JDP does not list the details in the regular parts breakdown, copy the part number then go to the JDP home page (you must be logged in) and paste the part number here:
View attachment 26420

I also think you can do it from your shopping cart as well. If you still need help post the part numbers please, I really have no clue what bolts you mean on the bagger.
I’ve been scouring the f#$&*@! Internet for an hour trying to find out of 1025 lug bolts are a 1.5 or 1.25 pitch metric thread.

Does anyone know??

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but damn... can NOT find this info.
 

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I’ve been scouring the f#$&*@! Internet for an hour trying to find out of 1025 lug bolts are a 1.5 or 1.25 pitch metric thread.

Does anyone know??

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but damn... can NOT find this info.
1.25 According to JD Parts:

Rear:
LVU23280Wheel Bolt

Part Number:
LVU23280
Part Price:1.68 USD
On Hand:
4 Check Other Stores
Description:Wheel Bolt - BOLT, WHEEL M12X1.25-6G

Specification
Weight:0.11 LBS 0.05 Kg
Thread Size12.000 MM
Thread Pitch1.250 MM
Length23.520 MM
Angle / Radius90.000 UNITY
Thread Length21.000 MM
Size19.0000000
Head Height8.000 MM
Material or Grade8.8
FinishB
Note

Front:
LVU23280Wheel Bolt

Part Number:
LVU23280
Part Price:1.68 USD
On Hand:
4 Check Other Stores
Description:Wheel Bolt - BOLT, WHEEL M12X1.25-6G

Specification
Weight:0.11 LBS 0.05 Kg
Thread Size12.000 MM
Thread Pitch1.250 MM
Length23.520 MM
Angle / Radius90.000 UNITY
Thread Length21.000 MM
Size19.0000000
Head Height8.000 MM
Material or Grade8.8
FinishB
Note
 

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Thanks guys!

I want to get a tap to run through the threads the next time I remove the wheels to make sure the threads are clean.

I think these extremely fine bolt threads are half the problem, they practically WANT to cross thread if you’re not careful...
 

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I think these extremely fine bolt threads are half the problem, they practically WANT to cross thread if you’re not careful...
True about cross threading but...

The potential benefits of fine threads are:

  1. Size for size a fine thread is stronger than a coarse thread. This is both in tension (because of the larger stress area) and shear (because of their larger minor dia*meter).
  2. Because of the smaller pitch they allow finer adjustments in applications that need such a feature.
  3. Fine threads can be more easily tapped into hard materials and thin walled tubes.
  4. Fine threads require less torque to develop equivalent bolt preloads.
  5. Fine threads have less tendency to loosen since the thread incline is smaller and hence so is the off torque.
 
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Thanks guys!

I want to get a tap to run through the threads the next time I remove the wheels to make sure the threads are clean.

I think these extremely fine bolt threads are half the problem, they practically WANT to cross thread if you’re not careful...

I don’t know of any wheel studs that are not fine thread. Fine thread is the standard for this application. The size 7/16”, 1/2”
Or what ever the metric size is are fine thread.

Chase thread taps are available for clean up. A regular cutting tap will work too. Good quality lug nuts, studs or bolts in this big a size should not be anymore susceptible to cross thread than course thread. Hand turn them the first couple threads. Don’t just start them in with air gun this is not a NASCAR application. A good idea to use lube on threads.
 

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Thanks Kenny

I am not sure how my dealer was not able to find this when with minimal knowledge and your help I was able to track down the info (I think). I was looking for the wrench size and think I got it. 19mm for the wheels and 30mm for the hopper bolt.

For some reason when I searched the model numbers I had I was not able to find it, but I eventually stumbled on this. 27 and 29 where the bolts I was referencing assuming I found the right hopper system.

View attachment 26426

Thanks for the help
Parts guy was lazy. No money in it either. It's all about the money. Keep that in mind.
 

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I don’t know of any wheel studs that are not fine thread. Fine thread is the standard for this application. The size 7/16”, 1/2”
Or what ever the metric size is are fine thread.

Chase thread taps are available for clean up. A regular cutting tap will work too. Good quality lug nuts, studs or bolts in this big a size should not be anymore susceptible to cross thread than course thread. Hand turn them the first couple threads. Don’t just start them in with air gun this is not a NASCAR application. A good idea to use lube on threads.
All great advice and I do all those things, it’s not guys like us that are the problem, it’s the overly-confident and hurrying young people at dealers, at the plant, who think they caught the threads and then throw the impact on it the bolt, thinking they are on a pit crew. :banghead:

I agree fine threads are generally not more susceptible to cross threading, but the fault in the JD design is using lug bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. If the wheel is touching it even slightly, it’s a cross-thread waiting to happen. A nut Is much much easier to start straight
 

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I agree fine threads are generally not more susceptible to cross threading, but the fault in the JD design is using lug bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. If the wheel is touching it even slightly, it’s a cross-thread waiting to happen. A nut Is much much easier to start straight
I think most will agree with you on this one. I've disliked those lug bolts since day one.
 

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I think most will agree with you on this one. I've disliked those lug bolts since day one.
The reason is it is CHEAPER to use a bolt. With the stud a nut is also required, two parts instead of one.

Another plus is the wheel stays on the hub with studs making putting the lug nuts on far easier.

Many cheap manufacturers don’t even provide a hub with the bolt design to hold the wheel thus not enabling ease of starting the bolts.

Sometimes modern ideas suck.
 
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