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Haven't posted much yet, been too busy thinking up reasons to spend time in the garage with my 1025R. Finished hooking up the hydraulic angle tonight on my 54" blade. The blade hitch is mounted to a homemade quick hitch that is mounted to a homemade quick-tatch frame on the loader boom. My welding skills are still a work in progress but getting better with every project. Rather than adding another valve for the angle, I ran a couple hoses and am using the bucket tilt ports for the blade angle. I removed the blade lift cylinder and replaced it with a cat-0 top link which allows me to adjust the pitch of the blade for optimal contact on the shoes and cutting edge. I use the loader boom to raise and lower the blade, works like a charm. Now I just need a little snow to break it in. I guess I can push some rock if the snow keeps passing us by.
 

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I see no need for a tilt cylinder for the blade. Once you get the angle correct to "roll" the snow, it should never need to be adjusted again. :bigthumb: Good idea using the toplink
 

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I see no need for a tilt cylinder for the blade. Once you get the angle correct to "roll" the snow, it should never need to be adjusted again. :bigthumb: Good idea using the toplink
Perhaps the OP has to transition on several different surfaces, pavement, gravel and pushing piles back onto lawn areas seems to me to require or at least benefit from different angles of attack where a blade is concerned. With mine I like to barely use the shoes and let the cutting edge scrape on pavement, on gravel I roll back to balance the weight on the shoes while still removing most of the snow and on grass I want to float completely on the shoes to avoid scraping up sod.
 
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