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Bought a new sprayer today

620 Views 20 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  gdiman
It's funny how we accumulate attachments for our tractors after we buy them. This is for my 10 acre hayfield that I'm in the process of rejuvenating. It is a 60 gallon boomless Fimco. It seems pretty well made but we'll see in another week or two I suppose.

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We still have a lot snow covering our garden!

rob
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We have the Fimco 30 gallon for my wife’s Gator. Excellent sprayer.
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What's everyone's opinion on "Boom vs Boomless"? The description on the Fimco 60 say it will spray a path 30' with three nozzels. I would imagine a boom could get in the way and you could easily hit something with it if it stuck out to far. I have 18.5 acres that is mostly open in the center and spread out trees down both sides. I would guess you just need to take extra care with a boom, like pulling a larger mower.
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Yea, a boomless is only good for ditch spraying roundup for me. I need that boom for fire ant spraying and 2,4D/atrazine.
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Boomless more tricky to spray if there is any breeze.
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We have the Fimco 30 gallon for my wife’s Gator. Excellent sprayer.
Good to hear. I hope this one is too. I debated with myself whether to go boomless or boomed I decided on this because it has good advertised coverage but I also know that as a previous member said, they can be difficult in windy applications so I'll just have to be careful.
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I have both. The boomed sprayer is more accurate and I use it for fertilizing because you get very good coverage


The boomless sprayer is easier to use and does not get in the way, but is less accurate. I use it for insecticide type applications.

There are many variables. Is your lawn flat? How many trees and obstacles to go around? Are you concerned about overspray? What are you spraying? Is it windy? How big is the area you are spraying?

I have an easy disconnect and mounting system to switch between the two. Takes about 5-10 minutes.

AK
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Ok, that makes sense, my application would be mainly for weed control and I think a boom would have more nozzles spraying downward.
I’ve been looking at a 45 gallon 3 point unit for my 1025R. They sell both boom and boomless. I sent Fimco an email a few weeks ago asking what would they recommend for my few acres of nice turf grass. I was intrigued by the wide coverage of the boomless. I currently have a 25 gallon tow behind with a 8’ boom/swath. They suggested the boom (10’) width over the boomless as it sprays much more consistently and accurately for weed control products needing precision.
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When I bought my S-B-S 19 years ago, I added a 60 gal FIMCO boom sprayer with 7 tips (TeeJet TP8002). It has served very well spraying herbicide in the pasture, insecticide and herbicide in the lawn and various products in fruit trees by hand wand. I recommend the boom as it is much more precise for herbicides. My booms are spring-loaded and have impacted numerous trees, posts and buildings with no damage. The hose required replacement 6 years ago. The first motor/pump lasted about 10 years. One thing I recommend for any spray tank is using tank neutralizer / cleaner after each batch. Failure to clean and rinse inevitably leads to blocked filters and plugged jets. Oh yes, spray marker is worth the cost and trouble.

I hope you get similar service from your new sprayer. Congrats!
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When I bought my S-B-S 19 years ago, I added a 60 gal FIMCO boom sprayer with 7 tips (TeeJet TP8002). It has served very well spraying herbicide in the pasture, insecticide and herbicide in the lawn and various products in fruit trees by hand wand. I recommend the boom as it is much more precise for herbicides. My booms are spring-loaded and have impacted numerous trees, posts and buildings with no damage. The hose required replacement 6 years ago. The first motor/pump lasted about 10 years. One thing I recommend for any spray tank is using tank neutralizer / cleaner after each batch. Failure to clean and rinse inevitably leads to blocked filters and plugged jets. Oh yes, spray marker is worth the cost and trouble.

I hope you get similar service from your new sprayer. Congrats!
Great information! I appreciate that! Any recommendations on a brand for a tank neutralizer?
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Be very careful of your neighbor's flowers when spraying herbicides. Windy and windless days are the most dangerous for over spray. Windy obviously, but a windless day is prime for a temperature inversion...

A boomless sprayer is obviously less directed and more inclined to drifting
I personally run boomless and it has its issues and benefits basicly ....boom less requires bigger droplets etc to carry the 15' plus feet and is wind sensitive.......boom sprayer can spray a fine mist right on top of the plants for great coverage....booms do a better job overall of putting chemical in the right spot.....the boomless works great for me since I do a lot of wand spraying and occasional field work...if I ever find a deal on a boom sprayer for the field work I will buy it...or just put booms on mine
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Boom and boomless sprayers are identical except for the boom itself. Just a thought… it may be practical to have two booms and switch between them based on conditions and the task at hand.

I don’t like the idea of putting all the pesticide in the air while I’m driving around in it, although I don’t know if there is actually a real risk.
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To gdiman: I have used this brand for several years. I always buy a case for the price savings.

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To gdiman: I have used this brand for several years. I always buy a case for the price savings.

View attachment 893197
I may have missed it but where did you buy it? Rural King? TSC? etc.?
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The best way to use the boom less sprayer is to measure it's spray width with the 3ph at different heights. You can restrict the width when needed or spray to 20'+ when you want, by knowing the spray widths of the unit when the 3ph is at different heights.

Fill the sprayer with water only and take the tractor and sprayer onto pavement and see the spray width's with the 3ph at different heights. Write the results in the sprayer manual or on the end of the spray tank, opposite the tank fill so the water doesn't wash off the information. Even with a perm marker the information should still be there, so they are easy to find. Saves time searching for the results next time you use the sprayer....

Having the 3ph fully raised is also going to tend to tip the sprayer forward somewhat depending upon top link, etc., which causes the boom less nozzles to spray Up and Out, verses straight down. This will provide the widest application but with the least control.

You can lower the 3ph down to where the spray width is barely wider than the width of the tractor. Using water on pavement is a great way to gather the data to make using this most useful. It's also helpful to see the impact on spray drift, etc with breezes. Once you know the actual spray widths, you can make the application quite targeted and accurate, verses what you can see watching the spray over the lawn, etc.

If you don't have a wireless remote control for the sprayer, get one. They make precision application much easier than a manual switch you have to reach, etc. Having the wireless fob in your hand while driving and you can turn that sprayer on and off with quite a bit of precision. You can add wireless controls which are universal for not much cost.

Also, until you get used the sprayers patterns, i suggest Using water to check the sprayers function and make sure you don't have drips, leaks, plugged nozzles, etc. as you don't want to have to empty a sprayer full of chemicals if you can't get the sprayer working correctly.

It's a major hassle to put 60 gallons of mixed chemicals in an alternate container should you need to make a repair, etc. Much easier to deal with water and then add the chemicals. Once its working, add the chemicals and recirculate the tank to blend it in and then get busy spraying.

Having a high quality hand sprayer with hose for the sprayer is also very helpful. Mine has this sprayer shown in the picture and its great. The nozzle is brass and adjusts like a fire nozzle, it can spray very strong streams or nice spray width patterns. The hand held sprayer nozzle and hose are more useful than I ever imagined they would be. You want high quality on the nozzle so it doesn't drip, ,etc.

.This is my sprayer with the hand held nozzle and hose and wireless remote, I just opted out of the booms and went to the 3 boom less nozzles and am very happy. It will spray 20' wide easily and unless you have a massive lawn your boom less sprayer should work quite well.....plus it allows you to get into tighter areas between trees, etc. Personally, I wouldn't want the booms, but obviously many people do.


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Cleaning the sprayer tank is a pain and hard to do well. I will fill the sprayer with water and the neutralizer / cleaner and let it soak. Then drive the tractor around so the water really sloshes around in the tank to help rinse it down. When you dump the neutralizer, etc if you have a stone area or where you don't want any growth, us that area is likely to be barren after rinsing the tank out there. And you need to try and have it close enough to a fresh water source the really rinse the tank down on the inside.

The tank drain is slow so you have to keep rinsing the tank as it drains to keep the inside clean.

When done, don't forget to run the boom less sprayers and rinse out the hoses and sprayer nozzles with clean water including the hand held hose and spray head.

One last tip, when I fill my tank with water, before adding chemicals, Often it takes some time to purge the air out of the lines to get the pump to push water through the lines. If you hold the pick up hose down in the water i n the tank and put the end of the fresh water hose against the end of the pick up hose line, the force of the fresh water will push the air out of the lines and cause the boom less nozzles to spray water, Another reason to use water only while getting started.

Purging the lines with clean water is fine. purging them with chemicals blended means you are reaching down into the tank etc with chemicals which I would rather avoid doing. I always wear rubber gloves when handling any chemicals including driving the tractor when spraying and then I throw away the gloves when done cleaning the tank.

Enjoy your new sprayer.........I am sure you will...........
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something to add to @SulleyBear s comments .......with many chemicals you need to know how many gallons of fluid your applying per acre .... so you need to figure out your your (spray width) (ground speed) (gallons) (tank pressure)

how i did that was do the width test sulley mentioned and get how wide your spraying and the best pressure setting for your nozzles if yours is variable ....and we know there are 43560sq ft to the acre .....so a little testing and math is in order to find out how many gallons you spray based on your ground speed

i do that by putting a set amount of gallons(water) in the tank and driving at a set speed till it runs out and use a gps to see how far i have gone then do a little bit of math ....maybe others here have a easier way but this works for me ......after a few tests i write all the info down and keep it for refrence as needed
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Farmer52 RE: BASF tank neutralizer source. I check prices when I run out. Last time I bought a case from DoMyOwn.com.
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