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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
:banghead:
Its a 47...first production model.
Does run..quite well after some carb tuning and general cleanup.

Fixed the lose hubs in the rear ,cleaned brakes ,cleaned air filter (has the optional glass outer pre-cleaner).

Hydro oil is contaminated....more on this.
Draft control spring shaft has morphed into a 2 piece useless part......more on that later as well.

Came with a ford 5' brush mower that has seen better days and pukes oil out of every orafice....
Solution ......some combine butter/corn grease thing I read about somewhere . If you have a better Idea lets hear it??
No its not getting new seals...its older than dirt and the housing is rough at best. Goofy one-off blades. Its getting pumped full of whatever grease and will last long enough.

Tractor has 1 new rear(brand new by previous owner).with no ballast.....dumped the calcium outta the other yesterday and installed new valve stem . Its the 2 piece liquid style. Fronts look great ,hold air but are dated...prehistoric..there fine. This tractor needs front weight...NOT rear. No loader.Not getting one. The less traction the better as they are known to lift the front quite easy. The reason I own a jd 4x4 is cus I got spooked on a 9n.....This is a stepping stone to get my kid into a jd 4x4 scut. Learn the basics on something thats leaving...not the one your keeping.

Pto works ,looks like a new hydro pump was installed?? Plate on the bottom is spotless and shiney..either a rebuild or whatever...it has no paint like the rest of the Red Belly.

Drives....but we havn't....Had the old boy that we bought it from drive it over to the loading site.
He started it in N then somehow got it into 1st...it would try to die at idle when we showed up so this would have helped.
Or he bypassed the start in gear switch as there are bare wires everywhere to acomplish this. Its Home.

6v...positive ground...confirmed buy seller. Get it home and the battery is in backwards:banghead:

These tractors don't care...but Were scared to switch it back...Its working soo.. We'll get to that but of course being an early model it has the front Distributer:banghead:...PITA.

The BLOCK is Not cracked so were feeling good.

Ok we paid 800...tractor mower.running.



Who here has split a 2,9,or 8N...??

Any other good ideas for unsticking the clutch....??

Pulled starter and dumped 3 cans of brake clean on clutch....it appears that hydro oil is leaking out front of transmission.
Could be oil stuck...been stuck for a year plus. Pedal has been wired down and He mowed 10 acres with no sign of it unsticking.

No were not running it into a tree.
Not gonna jack it up ,wind it up in 4th and push it off the jack.
Tie it to a tree with a long chain and go like a bat outta h55l.

Other solutions are all welcome...pile on if you got a story that works ...or might.

Dan

:munch::munch:



Yes I've found a couple other forums...not a member of any.
I like it here but realize I'll have to look around a bit .
 

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:lolol:

Well you wanted a tractor with no brains.

This is gonna be a fun one to follow. :munch:
 

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I split one about 15 years ago. I don’t have any tips but I remember it was super simple, almost split itself.

Are they a live pto, ie: does the pto stop with the clutch? If so mowing 10 acres and not having it break free seems like more might be needed that something this simple.

The brake cleaner is a good idea but if it has a oil leak in that area and is still stuck, again sounds like something else going on.

Can you see the throw bearing and fingers moving when you push the pedal from anywhere under it or a mirror though the starter hole? It would be nice if it was just an adjustment problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I split one about 15 years ago. I don’t have any tips but I remember it was super simple, almost split itself.

Are they a live pto, ie: does the pto stop with the clutch? If so mowing 10 acres and not having it break free seems like more might be needed that something this simple.

The brake cleaner is a good idea but if it has a oil leak in that area and is still stuck, again sounds like something else going on.

Can you see the throw bearing and fingers moving when you push the pedal from anywhere under it or a mirror though the starter hole? It would be nice if it was just an adjustment problem.

You can't see s77t.

Clutch is adjusted proper as all that is external.
Pulling the starter gives you a peek....at the wrong side of flywheel. Not to mention that the starter falls apart as the mounting bolts hold it together.

I previously read this and was prepared...So RTGT...don't laugh it up yet. I'll surely give you a few more chances before this is over.

Yea ..the worm hole...you a can " reach around".. the flywheel and feel the PP..spin flywheel o optimal area to squirt.
All this after you build a custom straw with a lighter and shrink wrap....the first one launched off the can never to be seen again. Second attempt was better but the dam straws are so short now...used to get 6" or so.

My next thought was wd-40.....it does dry up eventually.
There was mention of filling bell housing with diesel and running it. Fill through flywheel/ inspection/timing hole....
this is First year production....NO timing HOLE.....I could pull a steering box bolt and feed diesel through it but its tiny.


I've been looking into drilling the hole for the sherman trans shifter. That would give me good aim at the clutch side of flywheel and perhaps be usefull later.
 

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You can't see s77t.

Clutch is adjusted proper as all that is external.
Pulling the starter gives you a peek....at the wrong side of flywheel. Not to mention that the starter falls apart as the mounting bolts hold it together.

I previously read this and was prepared...So RTGT...don't laugh it up yet. I'll surely give you a few more chances before this is over.

Yea ..the worm hole...you a can " reach around".. the flywheel and feel the PP..spin flywheel o optimal area to squirt.
All this after you build a custom straw with a lighter and shrink wrap....the first one launched off the can never to be seen again. Second attempt was better but the dam straws are so short now...used to get 6" or so.

My next thought was wd-40.....it does dry up eventually.
There was mention of filling bell housing with diesel and running it. Fill through flywheel/ inspection/timing hole....
this is First year production....NO timing HOLE.....I could pull a steering box bolt and feed diesel through it but its tiny.


I've been looking into drilling the hole for the sherman trans shifter. That would give me good aim at the clutch side of flywheel and perhaps be usefull later.
At some point the spring will fall off the end of the starter when you bump it just right against the bell housing taking it out. Then you will split it but all you will need is longer bolts to slide it apart to get it to fall out. That might be a way to see if the throw out bearing is pushing against the pressure plate come to think of it or if the fingers that hold the throw out bearing are bent The fluid is only going to work so well because while everything else frees up the stuck part won’t have oil on it.

You might ask the old owner if it had been free and when.:dunno: Depends on him on how honest an answer you get.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The long bolts is a thought. But if it comes apart it needs a trans seal ,and might as well put in a clutch kit at that point:banghead:

Old boy...75ish...paid 2200 for it maybe 3 years ago.
Been stuck since last spring....I can see it in the google maps pic.
He seemed honest and babied it through last summer...Bought a nice 2040 to replace it.

Wasn't the sharpest stick in the shed but not totally illiterate.

While we "bought" a known problem...we bought it at a fair price , maybe a touch high but it was close and has a trashed but useable mower.

I did just find a used trans with the Sherman in it already not far from here..CL
Looks to be an 8n...but I gotta look a bit closer. Dude has a whole pile of parts.:bigbeer:


While they are nice to slow it down.....they slow the pto speed as well:banghead:

Still haven't figured out why they were even used...maybe a plowing thing????...more gear selection?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Marvel Mystery oil. Don’t laugh


If I can get it to the disk........I've got the air fillable wd-40 can...old school red one......google is retarded and can't find a pic.

Anyways.........if iI can build a snorkle to point it through starter hole and at clutch disk...its a maybe.
I can get like 100 psi in the can and may have to dilute it slightly.......

Keep the ideas coming.

Pulling the starter is a pita.
The drain petcock for the block is right in the path. Its not coming out of a 70 year old engine without a fight.
Dam starter has a 6" long nose and gear that engages the "back" of flywheel....:banghead:...yet mounts from front.

It should mount from the back....makes no sense. They could have used a standard ford starter as the gear is clearly visible.

I guess they invented that at a later date..............:laugh:
 

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:yahoo:eek:h boy---:munch:pics-pics.
 

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With the pedal depressed as much as possible, tap the pressure plate with a punch and hammer,,
then tap the edge of the clutch disk.

I had an old Satoh tractor that would stick,, this would unstick it,,
THEN, I learned to block the pedal for the clutch down if the tractor was gonna set more than a week.

The sticking is due to the shiny metal rusting a little, the rust glues the metal to the clutch disk fibers.

If the tractor has sat for may years in a humid location,, the bond may be too great to break, then wrenches will be needed,,


I even block the clutch on the JD 650 out of fear of a stuck clutch,,, :flag_of_truce:

Oh, yea, a neighbor broke the stuck clutch free by driving the tractor with the clutch pedal depressed, and repeatedly hitting one of the steering brake pedals,,
that will work also,, up until the process breaks some other part,, like the transmission input shaft,,,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
With the pedal depressed as much as possible, tap the pressure plate with a punch and hammer,,
then tap the edge of the clutch disk.

I had an old Satoh tractor that would stick,, this would unstick it,,
THEN, I learned to block the pedal for the clutch down if the tractor was gonna set more than a week.

The sticking is due to the shiny metal rusting a little, the rust glues the metal to the clutch disk fibers.

If the tractor has sat for may years in a humid location,, the bond may be too great to break, then wrenches will be needed,,


I even block the clutch on the JD 650 out of fear of a stuck clutch,,, :flag_of_truce:

Oh, yea, a neighbor broke the stuck clutch free by driving the tractor with the clutch pedal depressed, and repeatedly hitting one of the steering brake pedals,,
that will work also,, up until the process breaks some other part,, like the transmission input shaft,,,

Problem.......there is zero access hole to even see the PP or edge of disk.

Next easiest step is to remove steering box. This opens a hole about 6" x 8" a bit aft of clutch.
Its got to come off regardless just to do the split so its a good starting point. Maybe with a long brass drift and a b uhhh Large hammer or perhaps air hammer we can rattle it loose.
Lots of stuff hooked to dash....most needs attention anyway. Throttle ,choke are easy. Oil gage should be simple if the line will cooperate. Then theres the battery tray that seems to bolt to everything and those bolts will likely fight back .
Lastly the wiring which is kinda spagettied @ the moment....needs cleaned up and none is attatched to anything..Its just floating around behind dash..some with wire nuts..most just twisted together. Voltage regulater is in the middle of the mess covered in oil from the oil gage yet part of the battery tray (i can't use the word)*.....Oh yeah..The Air cleaner seams to be a integregal part of the entire mess...it bolts to dash , battery tray ,VR ,Hood and no doubt something else.

Making room by the saw mill to do the work....its the only flat spot I have left.

Trying to drive it enough to play with brakes /whatever to free it up is just not doable. Ground is too steep ,driveway too long and narrow + on a hillside. These are man killers....Dad lost a Cousin to one back in the 60's...I remember the call and Him leaving for the Funeral. That one rolled sideways on a flat dirt road in east Texas. Probly going too fast and road was rutted...somehow it all went south.
Gotta teach my kid the right/proper useage...time is not a factor...safety is. He's 30 and has operated machines bigger than this...but back when He was 15....He forgets a lot. I know ,we work together daily:banghead:

Pics......I have zero luck posting here.....got a couple I can send to rtgt if He don't mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well... Some progress

More clean up...Removed Hood/tank/battery tray today.
Finally have access to steering box.
Kid had to go so I blasted the area with "gunk" carb clean /air...Its looking sanitary for removal.

Radiator is/was plugged bad.(in the fins).got 90% out..kinda spooked about messing with it much more for fear of damage.

Thermostat...WOW..its mounted in the middle of upper radiator hose...:banghead:

Its bad or has turned sideways in hose??..not sure on attacking that one yet. Has constant flow from start up...

Big plan is to unbolt steering box...block up...and see what we can of clutch area.

Possibly can knock it loose?...or its 8 more bolts to split it.

Sent some pics to rtgt....perhaps He can post them...idk


Got a short day tomorrow so something will happen hopefully.
 

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Since you have it taken down this far, take a good look at your steering box. They were originally filled with gear oil that leaks out leaving the bearings dry. Add in whatever rain water or moisture makes its way down the steering column and that makes for hard steering or even no steering if the bearings fall apart. I rebuilt my steering box with new bearings after the bearings came apart from water in the box then added a grease zerk to the fill plug and used JD cornhead grease to fill the box. It has been trouble free for the last 5 years or so now.
 

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Saw the pictures. She's a beauty! Looks like there's a couple of new tools in your future. I was replacing the bumper on my truck last week and finally had the opportunity to use an air chisel I bought years ago before I discovered battery operated tools. I put the punch attachment on a rusted bolt and gave it a quick blip of air. It knocked the rust off and loosened the bolt. I can't believe that I overlooked this amazing tool. I don't know if it will work for your problem, but it's worth looking at.
My 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Since you have it taken down this far, take a good look at your steering box. They were originally filled with gear oil that leaks out leaving the bearings dry. Add in whatever rain water or moisture makes its way down the steering column and that makes for hard steering or even no steering if the bearings fall apart. I rebuilt my steering box with new bearings after the bearings came apart from water in the box then added a grease zerk to the fill plug and used JD cornhead grease to fill the box. It has been trouble free for the last 5 years or so now.

Great call on the steering box!

I guess I'm luck in that this is early production and actually has a plug in the side of box. Googled that info this am and found it finally.
Later units did not. Pulled plug ...its dry. Squirted some Lucas 140 in the bottom.
Picked up 3 tubes of the cornhead grease. Will install fitting where the plug was and fill it up.
Remainder of grease will go in the Brush mower gearbox....all its seals are toast And I'm not going down that road.
Grease is cheap.

Steering box off. Disk is stuck to flywheel but not PP..of course:banghead:

Soaked it with PB blaster /wd-40 /full can of Kroil...some other majic stuff in a can.
Rotate squirt......over & over& over.....Hit it with the Heat gun

NOPE

Air Hammer.......just dug it out....... Only spot I can get to is the clutch disk Hub area....I have no faith its going to help and may crack it ....idk

Its soaking.....gonna go dump a can of JD spray degreaser on it later....Only way to get aim is with can upside down.
Some work this way some don't.

Doing some measuring...if I split it about 3/8 th of an inch.....I'll be looking at edge of Disk.

Thats my plan B.......Gonna be smokin Hot tomorrow and JR. was late today. Provided He shows up on time to go get
The House up by "Marlins Place" done...( Guttered)..we'll have a chance to try plan B ..If not we'll go at it early Thursday.

Thought about hitting it with CO2...freeze it...If I had that type of FE...I'd have stuck it in there for fun.


Any other solutions...??
:munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pulled the Left floor board off and got the clutch pedal pushed down another 1 & 1/2"

Feels like the disk is seperating....possibly stuck to both sides flywheel/PP.

2 new ideas
1 lift rear of tractor with hoist....dump a couple gallons of diesel in bell housing area..spin motor to soak it all...pray.

2 buy longer bolts..try a mini split 1/2" plus and see if we can drive a putty knife?...whatever between the stuck parts.


To do a full split...We gotta move 2 dead trucks , the sawmill & partially reassemble tractor (steering box) to be able to move to a flat spot under the other 2 hoists.

Tryed air hammer....No Joy

2 more cans of brake clean/Jd Majic stuff........its got alot of pressure ( clutch pedal way down)....maybe it will pop by tomorrow.
 

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Pulled the Left floor board off and got the clutch pedal pushed down another 1 & 1/2"

Feels like the disk is seperating....possibly stuck to both sides flywheel/PP.

2 new ideas
1 lift rear of tractor with hoist....dump a couple gallons of diesel in bell housing area..spin motor to soak it all...pray.

2 buy longer bolts..try a mini split 1/2" plus and see if we can drive a putty knife?...whatever between the stuck parts.


To do a full split...We gotta move 2 dead trucks , the sawmill & partially reassemble tractor (steering box) to be able to move to a flat spot under the other 2 hoists.

Tryed air hammer....No Joy

2 more cans of brake clean/Jd Majic stuff........its got alot of pressure ( clutch pedal way down)....maybe it will pop by tomorrow.

I would try the mini split. Sounds like your on the right path. If you go senile your going to be posting in a year about all the oil in there but it smells like brake cleaner.:laugh:
 

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Try 50/50 ATF fluid and acetone. Heard from many that it is a great penetrating fluid.

I'm still laughing about all the things you're NOT going to try in the first post. Do people really try those things in this case???

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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. Do people really try those things in this case???

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Pushing against trees is quite popular with motorcycles and tractors.
 
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