[Mike21]

It was probably bent in 2020 when I was fighting the landslide hard and furiously. The steel hole for the left lift bar pin was bent badly and cracked (should have taken before pic, sorry). I dropped off the 260B and put lift bars on. Used my single bottom plow to clean out some water diverter ditches. I put the forks on to move several big rolls of 5’ chainlink fence. So I scooped up the box blade and set(sat?) it in the front of the overhead shop door. I got the old faithful acetylene torch out to heat it up for bending snd straightening. Not only was it “Z” bent the metal was distressed and torn. I popped the bolts out of the upright mounting bars and loosened the lift pins.

Once dissembled to have room to swing a BIG hammer. Once heated cherry red, orang and bright yellow, I stuck in a pry bar to straighten the steel bar. I was able to beat it in a down back straight and square. The crack overlapped neatly. Heat, beat, tweak and repeat. To hold it together and gusset it up, I cut a couple 1-3/4 x 3”x1/4” plates.

Straight? Check! Plumb? Check! Nail that sucker. I cleaned up the metal then welded it up to reinforce the lift mount arm bend and welded up the crack. I cut out another gusset for the opposite side. Clamped positioned and welded it on too. I flipped the blade over on its back and burned some wire on the underneath side. The bar was 3/8ths and the plates were 1/4” mild steel. It turned out pretty nice. Straight edge and square were both happy. I should paint it but some ruddy red be like putting lipstick on a pig. Guys I’m not painting it green or yellow but may tackle that later.

 

[Gebada22]

Nice repair. Thanks for sharing the great pics.

 

[Kbar]

Nice job Mike. Are you going to weld those plates all the way around? Can you heat it up a little to get better penetration?

 

[Tooth Fairy]

Nice job Mike. Are you going to weld those plates all the way around?

Its not a good idea to weld across the plate as it will bend and warp the plate, better to weld down the long side only.

 

[Kbar]

Its not a good idea to weld across the plate as it will bend and warp the plate, better to weld down the long side only.

I disagree.

 

[Tooth Fairy]

I disagree.

They must teach things differently in the USA boilermaker schools to what they do in Australia.

 

[Kbar]

Don’t need schooling to understand welding. Put it in a vice and weld the whole thing around alternating sides. I wasn’t being a smartass I didn’t ask for smartass replies.
Looks good Mike. I’ll hold up your thread no longer.

 

[Mike21]

Nice job Mike. Are you going to weld those plates all the way around? Can you heat it up a little to get better penetration?

I was taught in school not to weld all 4 sides. It puts it in a bind and causes the weld to break. Actually those are just to cap it on top. I let the stick out down in the gap between the plate and the frame. It left a concave weld. I over lapped them and built it up. Then I ground it down almost flush with the top. It’s got good penetration down in the thin gap between the 3/8ths inch frame and the 1/4” plate. Once I got the bottom stitched up, it looked thin on top so I overlapped a couple quick runs down the top. I used my 120 volt Lincoln 135 with CO2/Argon gas on D, the highest heat. My wire may have been a little fast. I appreciate it but if that doesn’t hold as long as I’m here, I’ll cut and grind it off and redo it. LOL

 

[Mike21]

Don’t need schooling to understand welding. Put it in a vice and weld the whole thing around alternating sides. I wasn’t being a smartass I didn’t ask for smartass replies.
Looks good Mike. I’ll hold up your thread no longer.

No worries yeah, if you weld all four sides it actually weakens the patch. I used the box pretty hard to tweak it like I did with a little 25 horse 1R. If I do it again, I’ll fixer again. 😉

 

[Hall00]

Looks good, I agree with @Kbar ... I've never only welded 75% of a pipe before putting it in service, but you'll probably be ok with what you have.

 

[Tooth Fairy]

I wasn’t being a smartass I didn’t ask for smartass replies.

If my post triggered you then you probably need to get out and about more as my post wasnt in the least bit smart arsed, just sayin.

 

[Gizmo2]

I was taught in school not to weld all 4 sides. It puts it in a bind and causes the weld to break.

No worries yeah, if you weld all four sides it actually weakens the patch.

My father always told me not to make repairs too strong, something will break. Steel has to be able to give a little to hold up to heavy use.

 

[Mike21]

I welded it with my little 120 volt Lincoln 135 with argon/CO2 mix. I let the wire stick out go down in the gap between the patch and the frame. I welded it across the concave bead a couple of times then ground it flat with a couple of runs along the tops of the two pieces. It will hold for as long as I’m around. If it breaks or bends again, I’ve got the tools to cut it off, grind it down and Welder up again.

 

[Montana Dan]

It was probably bent in 2020 when I was fighting the landslide hard and furiously. The steel hole for the left lift bar pin was bent badly and cracked (should have taken before pic, sorry). I dropped off the 260B and put lift bars on. Used my single bottom plow to clean out some water diverter ditches. I put the forks on to move several big rolls of 5’ chainlink fence. So I scooped up the box blade and set(sat?) it in the front of the overhead shop door. I got the old faithful acetylene torch out to heat it up for bending snd straightening. Not only was it “Z” bent the metal was distressed and torn. I popped the bolts out of the upright mounting bars and loosened the lift pins.

Once dissembled to have room to swing a BIG hammer. Once heated cherry red, orang and bright yellow, I stuck in a pry bar to straighten the steel bar. I was able to beat it in a down back straight and square. The crack overlapped neatly. Heat, beat, tweak and repeat. To hold it together and gusset it up, I cut a couple 1-3/4 x 3”x1/4” plates.

Straight? Check! Plumb? Check! Nail that sucker. I cleaned up the metal then welded it up to reinforce the lift mount arm bend and welded up the crack. I cut out another gusset for the opposite side. Clamped positioned and welded it on too. I flipped the blade over on its back and burned some wire on the underneath side. The bar was 3/8ths and the plates were 1/4” mild steel. It turned out pretty nice. Straight edge and square were both happy. I should paint it but some ruddy red be like putting lipstick on a pig. Guys I’m not painting it green or yellow but may tackle that later.

View attachment 891249
View attachment 891251

View attachment 891250 View attachment 891312
View attachment 891310
View attachment 891311
View attachment 891309

That shouldn't go anywhere.

 

[theduke]

Have a freind that works for an outfit that builds a large portion of all the Substaion Electrical switches in the NW and beyond.

These are Big massive power switchs.
Most are structured from 6x6 tube ,plates etc
Some much bigger.

Everything is full welded..no air gaps ,no pin holes.
No place for water intrusion.......Everything is then sent to galvanizer.

Anything I do...is full welded...I hate rust leaking out of a spot that wasn't full welded.

Are there exceptins......sometimes.....Skinning a trailer deck with thin steel comes to mind.

 

[Montana Dan]

Within reason, I weld all the way around. The whole idea is to make the two pieces one. I'll even go a step further some times when the plates are larger and that's to drill or cut holes in the smaller plate so I can fill those in with weld to grab the parent metal even more, bucket lifting hook plates comes to mind. With the plate welded all the way around AND in a couple of places "in the field", there's no way they're tearing off. Same with splicing plates, more grab.

 

[Mike21]

Have a freind that works for an outfit that builds a large portion of all the Substaion Electrical switches in the NW and beyond.

These are Big massive power switchs.
Most are structured from 6x6 tube ,plates etc
Some much bigger.

Everything is full welded..no air gaps ,no pin holes.
No place for water intrusion.......Everything is then sent to galvanizer.

Anything I do...is full welded...I hate rust leaking out of a spot that wasn't full welded.

Are there exceptins......sometimes.....Skinning a trailer deck with thin steel comes to mind.

They are pros held to extreme specs and standards. Most of the EHV switches we used were copper or aluminum. Galvanization would burn off on opening and closing. But each company has its own standards. Myself, welding up a box blade on a tractor isn’t a critical piece. Lifting would put a bit of rotational torque on it while pushing and pulling would put stress on the larger frame. The patch plate is just something to hold it together and give me something to reinforce it with. I’m sure Arc Welding 1and 2 didn’t prepare me for NASA but I do remember my Dr. teaching the class going over not welding all four sides. As far as rusting, that’s what rustoleum and krylon are for. If on my Harley, I might dress it up some but for digging and spreading dirt and gravel not so much. Although a green and yellow paint job might be in its future.

 

[theduke]

The Copper ,ss insulators and the asembly of switch is done in a different building.

Most of this is for Bonneville..BPA....Big Power from Columbia River that gets sent to California

 

[Montana Dan]

They are pros held to extreme specs and standards. Most of the EHV switches we used were copper or aluminum. Galvanization would burn off on opening and closing. But each company has its own standards. Myself, welding up a box blade on a tractor isn’t a critical piece. Lifting would put a bit of rotational torque on it while pushing and pulling would put stress on the larger frame. The patch plate is just something to hold it together and give me something to reinforce it with. I’m sure Arc Welding 1and 2 didn’t prepare me for NASA but I do remember my Dr. teaching the class going over not welding all four sides. As far as rusting, that’s what rustoleum and krylon are for. If on my Harley, I might dress it up some but for digging and spreading dirt and gravel not so much. Although a green and yellow paint job might be in its future. View attachment 893131

2 sides or four sides is a mute issue imo. Your repair job is waaaay stronger than what a 1025R can break. Don’t sweat it. Green and yellow paint would be a welcome improvement, especially if you want to get on the cover of Better Homes and Gardens. I paint everything for rust regardless.