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Discussion Starter #1
Seeing the recent thread asking for advice about box blade choices for a 1026R it reminded me that I've been thinking about getting a blade for my 2520.

Based on what I've seen mentioned I think a 5' box blade would be fine on a 2520. But would a 6' blade work? My needs aren't huge. I have about 400' of gravel driveway that gets occasional use (from my main driveway to my shed). I want to rejuvenate it and then add some new gravel to firm it back up. Right now it has deteriorated to a 2-track in some places and there are areas that hold water and get muddy because of settling and the old gravel being driven down into the dirt below. After that the blade would just be used for annual maintenance on it.

To me, it seems better to get a wider, heavier blade for my needs. Something with more weight will make it easier to dig in and smooth out the bad areas. I won't be pulling a lot of material (I don't think?), so it doesn't seem like the bigger blade will be a problem for the 2520. But I have zero experience with using one so that's why I'm asking.

Also seeking recommendations for a good brand and good place to buy a box blade. I definitely don't need a Cadillac version but I don't want junk.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I guess there are 66" blades too. Maybe that's a good fit here...
 

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As long as it covers your tire tracks plus about 2” on each side. I wouldn’t try to go too big - it’s easy enough to make an extra pass here and there instead of having too much behind you.

The brands from the farm stores like Tractor Supply seem good enough for me - there’s nothing mechanical about them. Just look for good welds.
 

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I use this one. Very happy with it.

I bought it from a farm and garden supply in Michigan. A place called Rossell's. They shipped it to my place of work.
 

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I have the 65” wide Frontier behind my 2038R. I can load it full and keep moving, or stop and restart. Actually I’ve had it full enough to push my piece of railroad track off of the box blade. I added the piece of railroad track for weight because it wasn’t cutting hard material as well as I thought it should (too lazy to put the rippers down). I tried adding 2 pieces of track, but I didn’t like how heavy it felt on the 3 point.

Width wise, I really like the 65”. I have wheel spacers, so I think my track width is 60”. I think a 6’ wide box blade would be a little too wide.

Top and Tilt cylinders really improve the usefulness of a box blade.
 

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I have the 65” wide Frontier behind my 2038R. I can load it full and keep moving, or stop and restart. Actually I’ve had it full enough to push my piece of railroad track off of the box blade. I added the piece of railroad track for weight because it wasn’t cutting hard material as well as I thought it should (too lazy to put the rippers down). I tried adding 2 pieces of track, but I didn’t like how heavy it felt on the 3 point.

Width wise, I really like the 65”. I have wheel spacers, so I think my track width is 60”. I think a 6’ wide box blade would be a little too wide.

Top and Tilt cylinders really improve the usefulness of a box blade.
I leeally like your tool holder setup!


‘17 1025r w/FEL
(2) 80 JD carts
18 JD cart
Land Pride 4’ land plane
Land Pride 1258 tiller
Land Pride FDR 1660
Frontier ss1023 broadcast spreader
Victory EF155 flail mower
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tips, folks. I decided to go with a 60" King Kutter box blade. Gave it a shot tonight and it seems to work well. I'm new to using them so it will take a little getting used to. Pics later.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And I can say that even though King Kutter doesn't say that it is compatible, it works perfectly with my iMatch quick hitch. I just added a set of bushings to the lower pins to size up and everything else just fit. Well, I had to swap height of the top hook, but I have to do that between my KK tiller, middle buster, and Heavy Hitch too.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here are a few pics of the new blade before I started getting it scratched up. You can also see the driveway I'll be working on in some of them.






Rob
 

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I am very happy with my King Cutter Box Blade. I tore a Ripper thru the steel behind it when I hit a under ground rock but fixed it with a harden 1/2" thick cutter bar welded behind them. Can't blame the box blade the tractor was strong enough to do the damage to it something had to give! 100_0743.jpg 100_0804.jpg 100_0801.jpg After welding up the problem I painted it off JD Green cause it looks better that color behind the tractor.
 

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Looks like a perfect fit BigBlue - and a big plus that it works with the iMatch.

Now you will be wanting a top ‘n tilt........
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looks like a perfect fit BigBlue - and a big plus that it works with the iMatch.

Now you will be wanting a top ‘n tilt........
Yeah, I'm realizing that one would be very useful... :gizmo:

I was happy that the iMatch worked with it. Reading some reviews that said only the Professional line worked with a quick hitch had me concerned, but I measured my KK middle buster and then compared to the box blade before purchase and it was perfect. Didn't even need the big pin-on QA bushings for the pins since this has the clevis style. Just got out a couple slide-on bushings to go over the lower pins.

Nice job on the green paint job! I'm considering that for this.

Rob
 

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Yeah, I'm realizing that one would be very useful... :gizmo:

I was happy that the iMatch worked with it. Reading some reviews that said only the Professional line worked with a quick hitch had me concerned, but I measured my KK middle buster and then compared to the box blade before purchase and it was perfect. Didn't even need the big pin-on QA bushings for the pins since this has the clevis style. Just got out a couple slide-on bushings to go over the lower pins.

Nice job on the green paint job! I'm considering that for this.

Rob

With a little practice I found I could do fine without a top ‘n tilt. I just planned out my passes ahead of time to limit the amount of adjustments I needed to do.
 

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I use this one. Very happy with it.

I bought it from a farm and garden supply in Michigan. A place called Rossell's. They shipped it to my place of work.
Looks like the Woods Box Blade beefed up the area around the rippers! Don't think the ripper would pull thru that much steel. Nice Box Blade!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, after grading my old driveway and then spreading 18 tons of conbit (crushed asphalt and concrete mixture) onto it I now have a decent understanding of how to use a box blade. I have to say it worked really well for me. This KK unit is big enough to cut into the old driveway to deal with the sagging twin tire 'ruts' and then to pull and spread the new stuff around. I think the 5' version was a good choice for my 2520. When fully loaded with conbit the 2520 has everything it can do to maintain traction pulling it. A loaded blade does a great job smoothing things out though. I've gotten pretty good at dragging, spreading, and smoothing things.



Rob
 
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