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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, all.

I have a driveway that's about 110' in length from garage door to the road. At the apron of the road, it's roughly 18-20' wide and continues like this about half its length. At that point, it sweeps out on one side, broadening to about 30' or so i width. It meets up with the cement pad of the two-car-wide garage and extends beyond it on one side by 10' or so.

It's pretty beat at the road end and maybe for the first 15' of its length. In fact, it's mostly deteriorated down to the sub-material with most of the asphalt gone. I clear snow with the bucket on the loader, and have absolutely no interest in having it resurfaced as the cost is just ridiculous. I'm seriously considering ripping out the asphalt and having something like crushed limestone trucked in to surface it with.

Here are my questions:

- Aside from having the driveway paved or cemented, what options are available that would give a "reasonably" smooth and hard surface to work with? And, how would it need to be constructed if materials need to be put down in layers?

- Assuming that I end up with some sort of stone/dirt material, would I be best suited to use a box blade for keeping it trimmed up nicely? If so, what width would make sense to drag behind my 2520 for this purpose?
 

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I used 2RC limestone for decades on our drive. It packs in well and doesn't roll out of place like 2B.
I never dressed it up once it was packed in place or had need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I used 2RC limestone for decades on our drive. It packs in well and doesn't roll out of place like 2B.
I never dressed it up once it was packed in place or had need to.
Thanks for the info. Did you put it in or have it done? And, if you put it in, what did you use to spread, level, and compact?
 

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Can't really tell you how to start from scratch as far as "building" a good base. As for maintaining,I pretty much took it upon myself to take care of our private drive (actually a farm field access road that us and 7 other homes use) which is a 3/10 of a mile gravel road. The owner/farmer keeps me stocked with a nice pile of 2RC (with powder) limestone. During the summer I usually just keep the potholes filled. I've only had to do it once this year,even with all the rain. It's going to need attended to for sure before winter though. Speaking of winter,that's what really tears it up. Springtime it's a real Ho Chi Minh trail. That's when I'll "remove" all the holes by running my box blade up and down the entire length. I'll do this while I still have my chains on,and it works awesome. I have a Woods GB65,and the 2520 has no problem pulling it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can't really tell you how to start from scratch as far as "building" a good base. As for maintaining,I pretty much took it upon myself to take care of our private drive (actually a farm field access road that us and 7 other homes use) which is a 3/10 of a mile gravel road. The owner/farmer keeps me stocked with a nice pile of 2RC (with powder) limestone. During the summer I usually just keep the potholes filled. I've only had to do it once this year,even with all the rain. It's going to need attended to for sure before winter though. Speaking of winter,that's what really tears it up. Springtime it's a real Ho Chi Minh trail. That's when I'll "remove" all the holes by running my box blade up and down the entire length. I'll do this while I still have my chains on,and it works awesome. I have a Woods GB60,and the 2520 has no problem pulling it.
I'm guessing that part of the "damage" incurred in the winter is from snow clearing - do you plow with a blade, or use a loader? My machine has R3s and I don't use chains. How much of a headache would you imagine that would create?

That's the second post showing 2RC, so I'll have to see what that will cost me to truck in. How deep do you have it set?
 

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I made a mistake on the box blade size. It's GB65.

I'm guessing that part of the "damage" incurred in the winter is from snow clearing
Actually no. It's from the vehicle traffic and a spring that constantly has water flowing along part of the road which causes some serious ice buildup and freezing/thawing cycle.
I do use a snow blade. It's a JD 380A that was modded (thanks to help from kennyd) to fit the 2520. Now that is the blade that should be offered for these larger tractors. Not that dinky little sheet metal thing that they figure is supposed to work on all their models. I can still pull the box blade without chains. Just a bit more traction while they're on is all.

How deep do you have it set?
Not sure what you're asking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I made a mistake on the box blade size. It's GB65.
Would that indicate 65"? And the other would have been 60"? I'm thinking a 5' box blade would be about the right size for me, and yours would be slightly larger if that's what those numbers mean.

Actually no. It's from the vehicle traffic and a spring that constantly has water flowing along part of the road which causes some serious ice buildup and freezing/thawing cycle.
I do use a snow blade. It's a JD 380A that was modded (thanks to help from kennyd) to fit the 2520. Now that is the blade that should be offered for these larger tractors. Not that dinky little sheet metal thing that they figure is supposed to work on all their models. I can still pull the box blade without chains. Just a bit more traction while they're on is all.
My biggest concern with all of this is that I will lose the inherent ice melting quality of the asphalt since I will no longer have a very dark surface to attract bits of warmth from the sun. And, since it's a porous material (at least, more porous than what I have now), freeze / thaw could certainly make a mess of things.



Not sure what you're asking.
How deep is the material you're working with in terms of a "base"? 2", 6", more? I'm wondering how much material I would need on top of the dirt and such underneath to provide the sort of durability I'm looking for.
 

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Would that indicate 65"? And the other would have been 60"? I'm thinking a 5' box blade would be about the right size for me, and yours would be slightly larger if that's what those numbers mean.

Yes,it's 65"


My biggest concern with all of this is that I will lose the inherent ice melting quality of the asphalt since I will no longer have a very dark surface to attract bits of warmth from the sun. And, since it's a porous material (at least, more porous than what I have now), freeze / thaw could certainly make a mess of things.

Snow does linger longer on this type of surface for sure,and yes the months of cold,snow,and ice does a real number on it.




How deep is the material you're working with in terms of a "base"? 2", 6", more? I'm wondering how much material I would need on top of the dirt and such underneath to provide the sort of durability I'm looking for.

This road has been here for a long time. Over 70-80 years for sure. Not only the vehicles,but in the spring/summer it sees a good amount of large (6-7000 series JD's) farm equipment traffic too. I have the scarifers set all the way down,and I'll turn up 95% limestone,so it's probably a fairly deep base.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This road has been here for a long time. Over 70-80 years for sure. Not only the vehicles,but in the spring/summer it sees a good amount of large (6-7000 series JD's) farm equipment traffic too. I have the scarifers set all the way down,and I'll turn up 95% limestone,so it's probably a fairly deep base.
That's kind of what I had thought might be the case. I suppose I could plan for about 2" of material to set the driveway and then bring more in if I need it.

The other thing I'm considering is to only do a portion of the driveway. The section from the road in, for about the first 10-15', is very bad. The next 10' or so is poor, and the rest is fair. They're re-paving my street currently (they finished the grading today and may well put down the binder coat tomorrow). After the road deck is complete, the town will return to evaluate what portion of the apron they will replace to protect the new road. And, after they do that, I will have a much better idea of just how much of my driveway is "shot".

Depending on the situation, I may only open up a portion of the driveway between the new apron they will put in and the portion of my driveway where it's cracked but not all heaved and broken. At least that way, the area where we park will have the potential to eventually be clear with some sun. The only problem with this plan is that it won't be enough to justify getting a box blade. :brow:
 

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That's kind of what I had thought might be the case. I suppose I could plan for about 2" of material to set the driveway and then bring more in if I need it.

The other thing I'm considering is to only do a portion of the driveway. The section from the road in, for about the first 10-15', is very bad. The next 10' or so is poor, and the rest is fair. They're re-paving my street currently (they finished the grading today and may well put down the binder coat tomorrow). After the road deck is complete, the town will return to evaluate what portion of the apron they will replace to protect the new road. And, after they do that, I will have a much better idea of just how much of my driveway is "shot".

Depending on the situation, I may only open up a portion of the driveway between the new apron they will put in and the portion of my driveway where it's cracked but not all heaved and broken. At least that way, the area where we park will have the potential to eventually be clear with some sun. The only problem with this plan is that it won't be enough to justify getting a box blade. :brow:
I would just fix and/or replace the asphalt. It would be hard to get used to not having it...once you've experienced a paved driveway. Of course, I've never had one. I can only dream about life in the "burbs" I bet a paved driveway is nice:thumbup1gif:
 

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I would just fix and/or replace the asphalt. It would be hard to get used to not having it...once you've experienced a paved driveway. Of course, I've never had one. I can only dream about life in the "burbs" I bet a paved driveway is nice:thumbup1gif:
The problem is that it's ungodly expensive at somewhere between $10,000 and $15,000 for a driveway my size. I reached out to the company paving my road to see if I might be able to take advantage of them having all of their equipment here, and they don't do residential work. :thumbsdown:
 

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I think the key to maintaining any road surface short of paving is to crown the road so water doesn't lay on it in the first place. Do that and it will last a good time. If the blacktop broke up it would appear the base isn't solid or not well drained.
Just a guess here.
 

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Asphalt regrind is an excellent top coat for a gravel driveway as it kind of binds back together. It can be motivated to re-bind with a spray of old oil or fuel...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think the key to maintaining any road surface short of paving is to crown the road so water doesn't lay on it in the first place. Do that and it will last a good time. If the blacktop broke up it would appear the base isn't solid or not well drained.
Just a guess here.
I believe that the primary reason that my driveway degraded near the road is exactly the same reason that the road itself degraded - improper drainage of the road deck. I think that the road problems sort of "wicked" in under the apron of the driveway and cause it to go bad. I'm going to reach out to the town about this as they will be re-paving the aprons and I'm hoping that they may be willing to pave an extra couple of feet to at least cover the entire right-of-way portion of the driveway. That would get me a whole lot closer to a decent place with the surface.
 

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I would just fix and/or replace the asphalt. It would be hard to get used to not having it...once you've experienced a paved driveway. Of course, I've never had one. I can only dream about life in the "burbs" I bet a paved driveway is nice:thumbup1gif:
Actually I miss the gravel drive we had at out house in MT. It gave me something to putter with, even if it didn't need it, but I'm strange that way. :lol:

This is what I use(d) to keep up the drive. Serious work was done with a box blade but I used this as a mantainer. Run it though a few times just before a light to mild rain and the next day it looks like you put down fresh gravel.
 

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Another vote for the land plane... I used my box blade and rear blade and was fighting for every flat inch. The land plane was the opposite experience, you tweak the top-link a bit and then just run the drive up and back. All 1800 ft wind up perfect, the only thing I pay attention to is doing it 3 days after a rain. That number will change for you depending on soil drainage and shading.
 

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How about a landscape rake ? I know it makes short work of topsoil and small diameter gravel. Not sure about the larger gravel/stones.
 

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How about a landscape rake ? I know it makes short work of topsoil and small diameter gravel. Not sure about the larger gravel/stones.
I have an old York trailer type rake that I bought from the local municipal auction. They used it to maintain the dirt roads. It works great on my 1/2 mile driveway.
I also have a 72" land plane, and since I got it I haven't used the rake. I think the rake leaves a nicer finish, but the land plane does a better/faster job leveling and grading, and it leaves an acceptable finish. Ideally I'd use the plane first and then finish with the rake, but I dont.

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