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Brake Warning Chime Added to 2520

4316 Views 19 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  rgd, 
JDDave
I know most of you want to keep your tractors in good working order. But if you're like me you've probably driven off on your tractor with the parking brake on (everyone fess-up). The warning light is nice but it hardly gets your attention. It's probably not doing the brake lining any good to drive off with them engaged. After doing this one too many times, I decided to do something about it. I added a Warning Chime.

Interested in knowing how? Here we go. This took me about an hour and a half. I apologize in advance for the blurry pictures - Arrrrgh. Apparently my camera doesn't like to focus up close.

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Bought this chime at Radio Shack. It was prefect since it had a wide voltage operating range - 6V-18V.

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Removed screws for the dash panel. Removed the throttle control. Removed the dash panel. There was no need to remove the steering wheel.

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I determined which wire was providing the dash BRAKE light signal to the dash. It was the yellow wire with a green stripe (second from the left).

Since I wanted to make this a clean installation I decided NOT to slice into the dash harness. I noticed the brake switch was in view looking down inside the dash surround. So I decided to investigate possibilities at the brake switch.

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With the dash surround removed I could easily see the brake switch connector. I decided to add the chime wire here in a way that would not impact the 2520 harness system.

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The RED wire is IGNITION (+12V)(top), the YELLOW/GREEN wire (bottom) is the signal I want for the chime.

Now, making the chime wiring robust - several additions of heat shrink tubing.

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Notice the grounding lug on the green wire.

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Mounted the chime with two cable ties to the dash support structure. The same cable ties strain relieve the thin chime wires on the back side of the support structure. Nearby there was a convenient place to ground the chime.

Now onto the last step - tapping into the brake switch signal.

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JDDave
Continued from above.

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1) Soldered the chime wire to the stain relief portion of the female spade lug, 2) added cable tie for stain relief to the YLW/GRN wire of the 2520 harnes, 3) inserted female spade lug back into connector body and added second cable tie to the harness sheathing. Now we're good to go without any real impact to the 2520 harness.

Here's the entire installation. Also with the dash surround in place

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The chime sounds like your car does when you leave the keys in the ignition. If anyone knows how to link to a sound file let me know. I can upload one with the engine running and one without.

Dave
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Kennyd
Great job Dave!
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BethesdaEC
John Deere does not set the brake tension properly from the factory. It is nice and light and very easy for a woman to set but it cannot hold the tractor even on a moderate slope. I adjusted the brake turn buckles so now it takes a lot of force to set and lock the brakes (my wife can't do very easy now). I simply cannot drive off, the hydro whines but will not move. There are two turnbuckles, one on each side directly under the deck about where your foot rests. Move the brakes and you can see the rods move, these are the turnbuckles to adjust.
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smalltown
JDDave nice write up with pictures:thumbup1gif: I like the idea!

Can hear the alarm going off with the engine running and wearing ear protection?

Ya I'll admit I've left my brake applied a few times.

I'll also admit to not lifting my weight box a few times :banghead:
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JDDave
BethesdaEC said:
John Deere does not set the brake tension properly from the factory. It is nice and light and very easy for a woman to set but it cannot hold the tractor even on a moderate slope. I adjusted the brake turn buckles so now it takes a lot of force to set and lock the brakes (my wife can't do very easy now). I simply cannot drive off, the hydro whines but will not move. There are two turnbuckles, one on each side directly under the deck about where your foot rests. Move the brakes and you can see the rods move, these are the turnbuckles to adjust.
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Thanks BethesdaEC. I haven't considered tightening them up - I'm able to hold on my steep driveway, so I'm happy with the setting I have now. If I can't hold on a reasonable incline in the future I'll have to tighten them up. At this point the chime will keep me from challenging the drivetrain.
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JDDave
smalltown said:
JDDave nice write up with pictures:thumbup1gif: I like the idea!

Can hear the alarm going off with the engine running and wearing ear protection?

Ya I'll admit I've left my brake applied a few times.

I'll also admit to not lifting my weight box a few times :banghead:
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Yes, I tested it with the engine running and my earplugs in (inside the garage - reflected engine noise). I can hear it. Although the engine was at idle.

I'll have to try it in various real situations to make sure I can hear it.
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mjncad
Nice work Dave, and unlike me, you know how to wield a soldering iron.

Now you need to get your rig dirty! Around here, there is so much fine claycrete dust that it gets in places you never knew existed.
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JDDave
mjncad said:
Nice work Dave, and unlike me, you know how to wield a soldering iron.

Now you need to get your rig dirty! Around here, there is so much fine claycrete dust that it gets in places you never knew existed.
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Sorry. It has just 5 hours on it. :mocking:
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J
smalltown said:
Ya I'll admit I've left my brake applied a few times.

I'll also admit to not lifting my weight box a few times :banghead:
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And I thought it was just me! :laugh:
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mjncad
JDGREEN4ME said:
And I thought it was just me! :laugh:
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Nope, I've done it more times than I care to think about.
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BethesdaEC
I did it too many times as well. I am glad I tightened my brakes, they were nearly useless and honestly dangerous. I applied the parking brakes a couple of times on hills and the tractor proceeded to roll backwards. The only way I could hold it was to shut off and leave it in gear, which is also dangerous. The hydro motor will mostly hold the tractor, but it will very slowly drift.
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Gizmo2
smalltown said:
Ya I'll admit I've left my brake applied a few times.
I'll also admit to not lifting my weight box a few times :banghead:
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JDGREEN4ME said:
And I thought it was just me! :laugh:
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Add me to the list. I do both all the time, thought you were suppose to:lol:.
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Gizmo2
JDDave,
So I would think the chime would be sounding if the brake was on with the tractor running while shoveling dirt out of the FEL?
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eepete
The preferred embodiment of this addition would be little board with a microprocessor on it. It gets the switched battery line, so it can tell that the tractor was just started because it got powered up. And it sees the brake pedal.

So it only chimes for say 1 minute after you start the tractor if the brake is on.

Then, for "extra credit", you tap into the sensor in the transmission that gives speed feedback and if you see movement with the brake on, you also chime. Of course, that's a little more invasive signal to get than the two battery lines and the break line.

So many projects, so little time...

Pete
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rgd
Here is another thought on a warning that might not be as irritating. I installed the Mark Parnes LED light block on my motorcycle with velcro . The LED module plugs into my radar detector...its hard to hear a beeping going 70 with a helmet on. These things are BRIGHT. I put tape over all but one led at night. I figure they will get your attention if you velcro it at the top of your dash. I plan to install a flush mount miniature plug on my 2520 to swap between the bike and tractor.Will probably leave it on the tractor most of the time as I mostly just ride my bike on weekend getaways. And...my wife is usually on the back...and to save my ribs from being bruised, I dont dare speed. I will need to double check to make sure the LED will handle 12 volts. Maybe eepete could weigh in on this?

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Kennyd
eepete said:
The preferred embodiment of this addition would be little board with a microprocessor on it. It gets the switched battery line, so it can tell that the tractor was just started because it got powered up. And it sees the brake pedal.

So it only chimes for say 1 minute after you start the tractor if the brake is on.

Then, for "extra credit", you tap into the sensor in the transmission that gives speed feedback and if you see movement with the brake on, you also chime. Of course, that's a little more invasive signal to get than the two battery lines and the break line.

So many projects, so little time...

Pete
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Well, if this home automation thing does not work out you can try tractor automation:lol:
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eepete
Any chance of getting a model number on those LEDS ? There's a bunch of ways those could be wired. Failing that, try them on a 9V battery 1st, then try a 12 and see if they are about as bright as what you see on your motorcycle. Without some idea of what they are, what voltage they are rated for, original intended use it's hard to guess. LEDS with a jack on them like that is kind of unusual.

This thread does kinda make you want to do a bit more than the park light. I suspect there are two kinds of people in the world, those who have driven with the parking break on and those who are liars :mocking:.

I'm going to look at my tech manual and see how the parking break switch is wired, and then get back here. It would be interesting to see if all the series tractors are the same way or not.

Pete
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JDDave
Gizmo2 said:
JDDave,
So I would think the chime would be sounding if the brake was on with the tractor running while shoveling dirt out of the FEL?
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Yes, the Chime will be on in this scenario. But (1) if you're that far away from the chime it will not be very loud - it is muted even when you're sitting in the seat. And (2), I turn my tractor off if I'm leaving the seat for any length of time. I'd rather replace my starter in several years then rack up hours on the tractor.

I'll repeat my offer - if anyone knows how to upload a .WAV file where everyone can get to it, I'll upload what the chime sounds like with and without the engine running.

Dave
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rgd
ooh..I'm on a roll boys...How about taking the OP's original buzzer idea,just like he has it wired....but then running a loop over to the seat switchso that these contacts would then be in series with the buzzer. That way ,it will only sound off when the brakes depressed and your in your seat!
Man....I'm brilliant...I do have an 8 lb brain...you know :bye2: :lol:
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