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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for help! Bought new tractor this past Dec 20th for snow removal at my vacation camp in Tug Hill NY. Summer time will probably not see much use. Tractor had 1.5hrs at purchace and now has 10.5hrs being 70% operated full throttle at*PTO*speed for snowblower usage. I would like to wait till at Least 50hrs of operation prior to 1st oil change but that may take over 2yrs. At the same time I would love to run a thinner oil for extreme cold temps we get. I did have a hard to starting it at 0 deg. cranking over slowly. I cannot use a block heater as I drive 5hrs to get to camp and need to open driveway to get to camp ASAP. Would like to run 0w40 synthetic but worried engine is not broken in enough. Would love to hear your thoughts!
 

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I will offer you my thoughts. The 3025E manual states that regardless of hours, the engine oil and filter should be changed annually. On my 2720 I accumulated about the same number of hours as you. It's primary use is winter snow removal with a plow and blower. It's going on 6 years and I still only have around 130 hours. I change the engine oil and filter every year. I refilled with JD's Break-in Plus oil until the engine got to 100 hrs. After that I started filling with the 0W-40 synthetic for better cold starts.

Question - do you keep a battery tender on your tractor?

If not, I would be willing to bet that the slow cranking in cold weather has more to do with the battery than it does the 10W-30 that is in the tractor from the factory. If you have power in your storage building I would recommend something like a Battery Tender Jr. If no power I would recommend a solar battery tender. I started using one on my tractor 2 years ago and it has made a HUGE difference in the way it cranks in extremely cold temperatures.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will offer you my thoughts. The 3025E manual states that regardless of hours, the engine oil and filter should be changed annually. On my 2720 I accumulated about the same number of hours as you. It's primary use is winter snow removal with a plow and blower. It's going on 6 years and I still only have around 130 hours. I change the engine oil and filter every year. I refilled with JD's Break-in Plus oil until the engine got to 100 hrs. After that I started filling with the 0W-40 synthetic for better cold starts.

Question - do you keep a battery tender on your tractor?

If not, I would be willing to bet that the slow cranking in cold weather has more to do with the battery than it does the 10W-30 that is in the tractor from the factory. If you have power in your storage building I would recommend something like a Battery Tender Jr. If no power I would recommend a solar battery tender. I started using one on my tractor 2 years ago and it has made a HUGE difference in the way it cranks in extremely cold temperatures.
Sorry I did not mention that. I do have power and keep a battery tender on it always under tarped cover till I get unit under building. I also have a block heater but does me no good when I only go up every 1-3 weeks. Don't want to keep it on and attract critters and run electric bill up. So I am guessing you are suggesting to change oil yearly with JD 10W-30 break in oil till 100hr mark? I wonder if 50hrs enough to switch to synthetic oil?
 

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Sorry I did not mention that. I do have power and keep a battery tender on it always under tarped cover till I get unit under building. I also have a block heater but does me no good when I only go up every 1-3 weeks. Don't want to keep it on and attract critters and run electric bill up. So I am guessing you are suggesting to change oil yearly with JD 10W-30 break in oil till 100hr mark? I wonder if 50hrs enough to switch to synthetic oil?
There is no way of determining for sure. It really depends on the usage during the initial 50 hours. Owner's of other tractor models have reported switching to synthetic prior to 100 hrs. Most had 50+ hard hours of mowing or other engine loading tasks and felt the engine had been given a sufficient break-in workout.
 

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Ridgeracer, Everyone has their own opinion about oils, there type, viscosity, & when to change. Do a search, here or other forums, and you'll find this to be true!

That said, this is MY OPINION! Years back, like '82, I bought a 314 that made a horrible grinding/scraping sound when first cranked after sitting a day or two...summer or winter. I just started using syn oil in my Chevy pickup and tried it in my 314...NO more grinding/scraping on startup, summer or winter. I am a strong believer in syn oil.

As far as "when" to start using it, that's tough to say. Many vehicles come from Detroit with syn oil and 0 hours. It all depends on surface finish inside the engine. New manufacturing processes leave a finish that does not require any break-in period, so syn oil is good from day 1. Being a new tractor, your finishes could be (??) good enough to use syn oil, HOWEVER, it may also affect your warranty ! Check with your dealer.

I know this doesn't help with your dilemma ! Bob
 

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I was thinking of possibly changing it before next winter (approximately 20hrs) to a thinner non synthetic like 5W20 till broke in more? But want to make sure it's compliant with JD. Thoughts?
 

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That sounds to thin for me. I’d run the weights the manual says in synthetic. My opinion is the traditional idea of breaking in an engine before switching to synthetic has kind of fallen by the wayside. I’d probably just switch to what you want on the first oil change.
 

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I was thinking of possibly changing it before next winter (approximately 20hrs) to a thinner non synthetic like 5W20 till broke in more? But want to make sure it's compliant with JD. Thoughts?
Check the approved blends that are listed in your manual. I don’t see 5W20 in any of my manuals.



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Discussion Starter #10
I was looking at the fact that JD break in oil is (heavier) 10W30 and JD synthetic is 0W40 that going with 5W20 (non synthetic) would be thinner than JD break in oil but not as thin as JD 0W40 synthetic. Of course I have to see if the oil meets the other tech data recommended by JD.
 

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I was looking at the fact that JD break in oil is (heavier) 10W30 and JD synthetic is 0W40 that going with 5W20 (non synthetic) would be thinner than JD break in oil but not as thin as JD 0W40 synthetic. Of course I have to see if the oil meets the other tech data recommended by JD.
Keep in mind that with multi-viscosity oils they flow like the lower number when cold and the higher number when warmed up. So while 5W is okay for cold weather, you are only going to have 20W once it's warmed up and they don't recommend any 20W oil in the diesels.

Don't worry about the perceived "thinness" of 0W-40 synthetic, it's lubrication properties at 0W are equal to or greater than the 5W dino oils. That is what makes it such a perfect blend (0W-40, not necessarily the JD version). You have the best possible flow at extreme cold temperatures yet as soon as the engine warms up you have all the benefits of 40W oil.
 

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Ridgeracing, I changed out my breakin oil at my 50 hour scheduled fluid change. Actually, 49.1 hours in August 2010. I put JD 15W-40 in. I ran it for a year, and in August of 2011 when I changed the oil, I put in JD 0W-40 full synthetic, and have been using it ever since.

In your case of not putting any hours on your machine, maybe you could wait until you have close to 50 hours. If it was my tractor though, at very low hours, I would still change the oil yearly, and continue to use the breakin oil until you were close to the initial fluid change. My opinion of course. It's all up to you and what you feel you should do.
 

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I have a 5065E that gets about 25 hours a year. Ive had it for 4 years and still on break-in oil. I changed it at 50hrs and put break-in plus back in it. Im now at 100 hrs and going to change to 15-40. The break-in plus basically doesnt have the anti wear additives that regular oil has, so the rings will wear in and seat. They claim if changed it could use more oil.
 

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I have a 5065E that gets about 25 hours a year. Ive had it for 4 years and still on break-in oil. I changed it at 50hrs and put break-in plus back in it. Im now at 100 hrs and going to change to 15-40. The break-in plus basically doesnt have the anti wear additives that regular oil has, so the rings will wear in and seat. They claim if changed early it could use more oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all replies! How does this sound, I purchased tractor at end of 2018 new (Dec 20th) with less than 2hrs on machine. Having put 10hrs on it this winter and probably 4hrs this summer, would it be ok to go through next winter and change it in spring, hopefully having 30+ hrs on it by then? I would still put JD break in oil in it. That would give it more hours in about 15 months of service since new.
 

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Thanks for all replies! How does this sound, I purchased tractor at end of 2018 new (Dec 20th) with less than 2hrs on machine. Having put 10hrs on it this winter and probably 4hrs this summer, would it be ok to go through next winter and change it in spring, hopefully having 30+ hrs on it by then? I would still put JD break in oil in it. That would give it more hours in about 15 months of service since new.
Reading the above it sounds like you are like me in that you put more hours on the tractor over the winter than you do in the summer. With that being the case, why not change the oil this coming December and use Break-in oil? That way you've changed it annually as recommended in the manual AND you have a fresh oil change going into winter when the tractor sees the most use?

I don't put many hours on my 2720 and always do the annual oil change. I change it in late November each year so that my oil is the freshest for the winter months when the tractor sees the most use.

However, I'm certain that nothing bad will happen if you choose to wait those extra 3-months and change it in the spring. :)
 
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