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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

My Engine on my Scotts/John Deere 2046H was back firing so I started investigating - after adjusting the valves, cleaning the carb, checking coils etc i was still getting the popping.
So I decided to strip her down and this is what I found - the governor shaft was broken in half.

My question is the block salvageable given the aluminum guide in the block is all messed up?

Thanks,
Adrian
 

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Is the hole oblonged? A machine shop can bore it out and install a bushing for you if it is. It’s an option.
 

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The major problem here is I don't think you can buy just the pin. The pin is pressed into the block. It must remain solid and the gear spins on it.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Actually I think the biggest problem is the damage to the block.

Although I don't know firsthand the cost of the parts or labor involved, which you would need to know to make a rational decision on what to do, I can point out that it is possible to repair. As already mentioned, you can have a machine shop make a bushing for you. It depends on the material, but a press fit for a part this size will be on the order of 0.0001-0.001 undersized. There are tables that, for a given material, tell you exactly how much undersized a part needs to be to achieve various degrees of fit based on the size of the part. The issue is that the block will need to be drilled out for the bushing and with those tolerances it will need to be done with a radial drill or milling machine to keep everything rock solid and aligned.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone here know if the intek V-twin blocks are interchangeable?
My block is a 406777 and I found a block on Ebay - 445777

Thanks
Adrian
 

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No the 40 means 40 cubic inches and the 44 is 44 cubic inches. Same basic block but with a bigger bore so your pistons are smaller.
 

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You could have a machine shop bore it and make it a slip or press fit. However why does it look like there’s the remanence of a needle bearing there to me? Maybe it’s just the photo. From the photo the bore honestly doesn’t look that bad just the top of it. Is the rest of the bore ok?

Upon further inspection maybe it does look bad.:dunno:
 

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Not knowing anything about your particular engine & going only by the photos, here's my thoughts:

1. I would think the governor gear is cast around the shaft. If not, it can be pressed out, measured, and purchased through an industrial supply house...McMaster Carr, MSC, Fastenal, etc. It needs an accurate measurement as it may be Imperial or metric. Is a new governor gear available through Deere?

2. The block NEEDS machining, and is NOT something you'd want to do "by hand" with a drill motor! It appears to have a needle bearing and this must be identified as to sizes: OD,ID, and OAL. Machine the bore oversize approx. 1/4". Get a steel sleeve made 0.001 LARGER than the machined bore with a bore in the sleeve 0.0005/.0001 SMALLLER than the needle bearing OD.

Bottom line is going to be availability of the gear and costs. Best of luck, Bob
 

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I may be butting in where not wanted...

But why did that shaft break in the first place? Seems odd to me that there would be enough side load to snap that shaft. Did something else break first that perhaps jammed between the teeth that would generate the load?

Also, seems odd to me that it wouldn't start just because the governor broke, I would expect it rev uncontrollably, not backfire.
 

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I'd tack-weld that sumthin'-sumthin', grind it a bit, and give it a whirl.


Seriously, some guys here are talking about pouring thousands of dollars on a (probably) well-worn, economy line tractor. That lawn tractor has exactly zero collector value.
 
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