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Hello. I have a new 1025r and have approximately 27 hours on it so far. This weekend, I dropped the mower deck and did some digging. Tonight, it was time to put her away and I went to connect the deck and was unable to. Before it got to dark, I noticed that the female coupler will not level out, it's stuck facing up. I'm not sure how to fix this. I also noticed a gasket sticking out of the rear area, with some oil. Not sure if this is the tranny, pto thing or what it is. The gasket flaked off when I touched it.

I'm going to call the dealer, but I'm pretty freaked out I screwed something up somehow. Any ideas on what the problem is?
 

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Some good detailed pictures will help a lot.

The "seal" that is coming off, is the seal on the pto output on the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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I can't guess at the gasket issue, however, I can take a good guess about your auto connect shaft issue...

Your shaft is stuck in the collapsed position. The shaft is supposed to slide freely and yours is stuck....

pics of shaft short and long....

DSCF7152.JPG

DSCF7151.JPG

Reach up and disconnect the shaft at the PTO out put... pull the collar forward... and pull...

DSCF7965.JPG

Once it's off, pull the shaft to the rear to free it up. It would be a good idea to grease the fitting on the shaft, and the ones at each end on the u-joints.

When you reattach the shaft, be absolutely certain the shaft has locked onto the PTO stub. You don't want it flying off and knocking off the hydraulic filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't guess at the gasket issue, however, I can take a good guess about your auto connect shaft issue...

Your shaft is stuck in the collapsed position. The shaft is supposed to slide freely and yours is stuck....

pics of shaft short and long....

View attachment 387722

View attachment 387730

Reach up and disconnect the shaft at the PTO out put... pull the collar forward... and pull...

View attachment 387754

Once it's off, pull the shaft to the rear to free it up. It would be a good idea to grease the fitting on the shaft, and the ones at each end on the u-joints.

When you reattach the shaft, be absolutely certain the shaft has locked onto the PTO stub. You don't want it flying off and knocking off the hydraulic filter.
Thanks! your last picture, where the bolts are at the bottom, is the gasket that is leaking, and where the gasket was sticking out. What is that part? aa.JPG
 

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If your tractor is under warranty you will need to have them split the case and fix the gasket, I've heard of other people here with those gaskets that were not installed correctly and squirmed out. Basically, they apply a bunch of silicone sealant, if they're not careful the gasket gets squished out during assembly. Not a big deal but should be fixed by the dealer.
 

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If your tractor is under warranty you will need to have them split the case and fix the gasket, I've heard of other people here with those gaskets that were not installed correctly and squirmed out. Basically, they apply a bunch of silicone sealant, if they're not careful the gasket gets squished out during assembly. Not a big deal but should be fixed by the dealer.
That's another thing I learned the hard way. You either use a gasket or silicone sealer but never both. The sealer acts like a lubricant and the gasket will squeeze out. However something like 3M weatherstrip adhesive can be used to glue the gasket in place.
Only exception is a very small amount in the corner of an oil pan gasket.
 

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That's another thing I learned the hard way. You either use a gasket or silicone sealer but never both. The sealer acts like a lubricant and the gasket will squeeze out. However something like 3M weatherstrip adhesive can be used to glue the gasket in place.
Only exception is a very small amount in the corner of an oil pan gasket.
They actually make a product to secure gaskets in place during the assembly process, it's often used on things such as valve cover gaskets to "tack" the gasket in place during assembly. You use it very sparingly and just a little dab here and there, enough to keep the gasket in place while handling the piece. You can also use a small dab of Vasoline or Petroleum Jelly to temporarily hold a gasket in place while assembling it.

I have also used Vasoline to hold the dozen small pins and springs in place assembling wet PTO clutch plate assemblies. Since the PTO clutch disc operates in the Hydro fluid, the small amount of Vasoline just dissipates once the fluid heats up and when you service the unit, you are removing any residue of the Vasoline when you change the fluid and filter.

It's very unlikely you should ever need to use a "sealant" along with a gasket. The sealant forms the seal and replaces the gasket and the applications which call for a gasket shouldn't need sealant.

Much of the rear end and axle assemblies (such as the Tuff Torq, used in many of X5XX, x7xx and many prior models of lawn tractors) uses a liquid sealant product which is widely available at Deere, O'Reilly, Autozone, etc. The applicator can makes applying the material very handy and easy to use. There are a variety of sealants for different objectives so if you are unsure which to select, either ask the parts person or research the choices on line to learn the differences.

When in doubt about a gasket or whether sealant is used, the John Deere parts illustrator shows the breakdown of every component on your tractor in great detail. ALWAYS use the gasket where required and the sealant where specified and avoid mixing and matching the two. They are designed to achieve specific outcomes and it's best to use them as designed. Many of the actual gaskets are multi layered and some even have stronger material sandwiched in the gasket between the outer layers.

Some of us "old School wrenches" keep gasket sheet material on hand so we can make our own gaskets if the need arises, but that's not something you see too often any more.

When you are applying the sealant material between two machined surfaces, you don't need to apply large amounts of sealant. It's not like you are caulking gaps in house trim or siding where you are using the sealant to fill the void. If you are unsure about how much sealant to apply, you can always apply a line of sealant, mate the two pieces up and then remove the pieces before bolting them to see how much the sealant has covered before torquing the bolts or fasteners. A little sealant generally goes a long ways.

It's very important to always torque the assembly correctly to avoid squeezing out the gasket or the sealant material by over tightening. The John Deere Technical Service Manuals include detailed bolt torque amounts and even torquing sequences for proper assembly. Also, many of the machined surfaces use much lower torque settings than you might imagine. You don't want to "good enough it" with an impact gun or you may end up removing sheared off bolts or even risk cracking a machined housing.
 

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If you guys are interested in a VERY good sealant for crankcases, transmission housings, and the like, check out Yamabond 4. Used extensively in the motorcyle world, I have a tube and it's good stuff, IMO superior to Permatex.
 

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Boy, looking at the photos of the drive coupling hanging set up it sure looks rinky dink. One would think it was something that some guy cobbled up in his garage. I'm getting to the point of thinking that some of the smaller tractor personal at JD is less than acceptable as design engineers. I see total absence of good engineering practices and creativity. Durability and operability are just entirely over looked. Having been in product engineering and design for my entire life some of the stuff I see lately just makes me shake my head. Glad to be retired..............
 

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Boy, looking at the photos of the drive coupling hanging set up it sure looks rinky dink. One would think it was something that some guy cobbled up in his garage. I'm getting to the point of thinking that some of the smaller tractor personal at JD is less than acceptable as design engineers. I see total absence of good engineering practices and creativity. Durability and operability are just entirely over looked. Having been in product engineering and design for my entire life some of the stuff I see lately just makes me shake my head. Glad to be retired..............
It's a Marketing gimmick, in my opinion.
 

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It's a Marketing gimmick, in my opinion.

What's a Marketing gimmick? How can poor product design be a gimmick of any kind?

It's real simple continue to produce product, inferior junk at high prices and soon your place in the market will shrink or possibly END.

JD has no reason for not being #1 in everything including product design and implementation. Too many product complaints in just this SCUT area alone. They are by far #1 in high price.

Look at the reliability of appliances, JD should emulate those principals.
 

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It's a Marketing gimmick, in my opinion.

What's a Marketing gimmick? How can poor product design be a gimmick of any kind?

It's real simple continue to produce product, inferior junk at high prices and soon your place in the market will shrink or possibly END.

JD has no reason for not being #1 in everything including product design and implementation. Too many product complaints in just this SCUT area alone. They are by far #1 in high price.

Look at the reliability of appliances, JD should emulate those principals.
You misunderstood me, I meant the auto-connect is a marketing gimmick "wow look...you save 15 seconds of connecting your driveshaft! You can stay on the tractor!" This isn't taking into account the poor, delicate design or the amount of time spent adjusting it.

I'm totally in agreement with you regarding the shoddy design of it and that JD needs to stop straying away from the core principal that the best piece of equipment is the one that keeps working.
 

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"Rinky Dink", "Easiest to Manufacture", CHEAPEST WAY to achieve result (in this case less than stellar "Auto Connect"), and so on... I got my machine back today with it's repaired "trapeze linkage" which failed due to poor design and absolutely crappy rusted through cold welds on the "leveling plate tab". Crummy and excessively complicated design for an "ag use product" coupled with poor part manufacturing equals a big dent in my wallet and a bunch of thoughts about future green spent on green stuff.

Top dollar should not mean mediocre performing assemblies.
 

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"Rinky Dink", "Easiest to Manufacture", CHEAPEST WAY to achieve result (in this case less than stellar "Auto Connect"), and so on... I got my machine back today with it's repaired "trapeze linkage" which failed due to poor design and absolutely crappy rusted through cold welds on the "leveling plate tab". Crummy and excessively complicated design for an "ag use product" coupled with poor part manufacturing equals a big dent in my wallet and a bunch of thoughts about future green spent on green stuff.

Top dollar should not mean mediocre performing assemblies.

Exactly, I especially like your "trapeze linkage" description. The whole design has the look of a bubba in the barn out back creation from junk that was laying around.
 

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Exactly, I especially like your "trapeze linkage" description. The whole design has the look of a bubba in the barn out back creation from junk that was laying around.
I disagree. But that's just my opinion. I think it was a well thought out system that ended up needing some minor improvements, which they have done. There were many new parts that were better than version 1.0. Seems like Deere does that for a lot of stuff. Auto-Connect was an industry leading feature that everyone else had to try and copy to emulate on their product. I'd say that means it was a darn good idea. The vast majority of the new SCUTs being sold now have this feature. A lot of people are voting with their checkbooks.
 

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You misunderstood me, I meant the auto-connect is a marketing gimmick "wow look...you save 15 seconds of connecting your driveshaft! You can stay on the tractor!" This isn't taking into account the poor, delicate design or the amount of time spent adjusting it.

I'm totally in agreement with you regarding the shoddy design of it and that JD needs to stop straying away from the core principal that the best piece of equipment is the one that keeps working.
OK, got ya. The whole operability is stupid. The drive shaft connection is the only part you don't need to dismount the tractor for for hook up and release. They don't show that. But since dismounting for everything else why not connect of remove the drive shaft too? Yes, it does not make much sense for purchase of this option. Especially since it is such a piece of crap.
 

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I disagree. But that's just my opinion. I think it was a well thought out system that ended up needing some minor improvements. Seems like Deere does that for a lot of stuff. Auto-Connect was an industry leading feature that everyone else had to try and copy to emulate on their product. I'd say that means it was a darn good idea. The vast majority of the new SCUTs being sold now have this feature. A lot of people are voting with their checkbooks.

That's ok you can disagree. The concept to have automatic coupling is great. Buyers like the concept. No question about it. But you gotta be kidding if the execution of the design to accomplish it is even remotely acceptable.
 

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No problem with mine. I love it. Keep it clkean and maintained and no problems yet. I have had mower off probaly 15 times. :bigthumb:
 
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