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Hi everyone.

Well this happened today. Was removing the loader inside of my shed today (back end on the entrance ramp) and went to apply the parking brake to get off and disconnect the hydraulic lines. Foot went to the floorboard while pressing the brake pedal. Ending up leaving the tractor in gear and happen to have a wheel chock handy to keep it in place when I started back up. Upon inspection it looks like I broke item #28. Of all the things possible to break, (air filter being one of them) I never thought it would be this.

20201121_151412.jpg Screenshot 2020-11-21 211422.jpg

Now to decide if I should spend the $72 or make one my own that may be stronger, but then where could the next weakest link be?
 

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New enough for warranty?
 

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That. Is. A. New. One. Have never seen that part break before. If it's under warranty have the dealer repair it. If not, your call if you want to try to make one. My guess is the part had a flaw in it that finally cracked (if I recall that part is casted). I would check the rest of the linkage for any binding or abnormal stress applied to the lever. If none found, I'd chalk it up to a flaw in the casting, replace it and move on.
 
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I believe I broke part #37 a few years back on my 1026R, never did figure out why.
 
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That. Is. A. New. One. Have never seen that part break before. If it's under warranty have the dealer repair it. If not, your call if you want to try to make one. My guess is the part had a flaw in it that finally cracked (if I recall that part is casted). I would check the rest of the linkage for any binding or abnormal stress applied to the lever. If none found, I'd chalk it up to a flaw in the casting, replace it and move on.


Spot on!!!

I broke my actual reverse peddle few weeks back..It was cast,mine was new enough for warranty but It was my fault that it broke “in the wood messing around” so I just paid for a new one and fixed it myself

Anyway I will tell you ahead of time the best way to remove and install that piece is gonna be to remove the floor board..It’s not a hard job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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It seems to me we had another of this same part break on this site earlier this year.......But I could be wrong. The reason it seems familiar is I recall looking it up in the parts book. And I recall the manner of part failure because in the discussion on that other issue ,it seems like the operator was out in the woods or something when it broke, because there was come question if something could have helped cause the break underneath the machine, like a branch in the linkage, etc..... It seems like it was here on GTT, but if Moderator Super Kyle doesn't remember it, then perhaps it was elsewhere.........

In any event, its certainly not common. Personally, I would buy a new part or have it replaced with a new one if its under warranty. It would be interesting to see if this is covered under the Power Train warranty....which is 6 years for machines built after 2017. Based upon the language, I seriously doubt it would be covered outside of the 24 month, 2000 hour limitation.

""Power train:transmission, transmission case, differential and axle housings, clutch housings, MFWD front axle assembly, and all parts contained therein (does not include external drivelines, dry clutch parts, or steering cylinders) "

If your machine is within it's first 24 months and / or 2,000 hours, then its likely covered under the "full warranty". After the 24 months, the warranty becomes the "Power Train Warranty" which is the information I copied above and posted in red.

Make sure to report back on this thread as to what you ended up doing and the process to remove and replace it. I would call it a "Bell crank lever" for lack of a better description......even though it doesn't appear to have two arms at the common joint.....

 

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I don't know of this lever breaking before. The other lever I recall is the one attached to the trans, that has to do with the forward/reverse pedals and the damper.
 

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Not a very good way to make that part..
Cast it? Certainly cheaper to cast it out of aluminum.
Bad for the owner if it breaks.
Old days it would have been cast/ machined out of quality steel.
 

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Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions everyone. I could tell it was cast from the way it broke. I am out of warranty so I knew I'd be tackling this one on my own. Unfortunately, I did not have time to dig into it much this weekend, but I will keep everyone updated of the process for future reference. I have an 8kw fiber laser to my disposal at work that can cut up to 1" steel if I choose to fabricate. Not the first time I've reverse engineered something for the tractor (pics for reference).
 

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As a retired Quality Manager, I can tell you that any manufactured part can have a defect in the manufacturing process or materials that will lead to failure of the part. This is true no matter how well the part is designed. Sometimes it's one in a million on a simple part. But it is no less aggravating when you are the one to find the rare defect.

Because this part is critical in the safety of the equipment, Deere might be very interested and could spring for a new one at no charge. It's worth a shot.

Keane
 
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As a retired Quality Manager, I can tell you that any manufactured part can have a defect in the manufacturing process or materials that will lead to failure of the part. This is true no matter how well the part is designed. Sometimes it's one in a million on a simple part. But it is no less aggravating when you are the one to find the rare defect.

Because this part is critical in the safety of the equipment, Deere might be very interested and could spring for a new one at no charge. It's worth a shot.

Keane
As I figured as much, multiple air bubbles within the casting.
763245
 
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