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I let a friend of mine borrow my 1025R a couple of weekends ago...might be the last time that happens. He was going through some trees on his property line and brought it back to me with a broken taillight assembly (Right Side as you sit on the tractor). It was broke at the mounts in addition to a small crack in the amber lens. He zip-tied it back in place and paid me the cash for a new one, but I was still annoyed.

Anyway, I ordered John Deere RH Taillight Assembly - LVA18273 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/Model-1025R_c_1017-3-3.html) and to prevent reoccurance I ordered John Deere Rollover Protective Structure (ROPS) Warning-Light Brush Guard Kit - BLV10400 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Warning-Light-Brush-Guard-Kit-BLV10400.html).

I went to install them this weekend and when I compared the LVA18273 to the one I took off I realized I ordered the wrong side. I don't know how. I know when I talk motorcycles, the right side is the side referenced as you sit on the bike or look at it from the back. I guess tractor-talk is backwards. I was disgusted and put it back in the box.

After some though, I wanted to look at it again to see if I could figure out a way to make it work and I realized the only difference was the red lens and the blackout lens were reversed. I got my trusty phillips screwdrive and blim-blam-boom I had a John Deere LH Taillight Assembly - LVA18272.

Not my tractor, but now I have this:
john-deere-1-series-warning-light-brush-guard-kit-blv10400-11656.jpg
 

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I let a friend of mine borrow my 1025R a couple of weekends ago...might be the last time that happens. He was going through some trees on his property line and brought it back to me with a broken taillight assembly (Right Side as you sit on the tractor). It was broke at the mounts in addition to a small crack in the amber lens. He zip-tied it back in place and paid me the cash for a new one, but I was still annoyed.

Anyway, I ordered John Deere RH Taillight Assembly - LVA18273 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/Model-1025R_c_1017-3-3.html) and to prevent reoccurance I ordered John Deere Rollover Protective Structure (ROPS) Warning-Light Brush Guard Kit - BLV10400 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Warning-Light-Brush-Guard-Kit-BLV10400.html).

I went to install them this weekend and when I compared the LVA18273 to the one I took off I realized I ordered the wrong side. I don't know how. I know when I talk motorcycles, the right side is the side referenced as you sit on the bike or look at it from the back. I guess tractor-talk is backwards. I was disgusted and put it back in the box.

After some though, I wanted to look at it again to see if I could figure out a way to make it work and I realized the only difference was the red lens and the blackout lens were reversed. I got my trusty phillips screwdrive and blim-blam-boom I had a John Deere LH Taillight Assembly - LVA18272.

Not my tractor, but now I have this:
View attachment 689492
Nice. I just ordered that BLV10400 from Amazon the other day for my 1023E. I do spend a lot of time in the woods with that tractor, but mainly I am looking for a place to mount some LED floods. I contemplate mounting them on the black plastic cover fender where they are on the 1025R, but I think higher up will work better (I did add the black covers LVU32985 and LVU30308).
 

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but Deere's guards bolt thru the ROPS and into the same plastic / threaded insert inside the light housing that originally affixed the lights to the ROPS. It's the plastic / treaded insert that is the weak point, so avoid any contact even with the guard or the whole thing will get torn off, light and guard. It's better then nothing though.

I ended up bolting my lights to the guards and then my guards to the ROPS. But it required a bunch of stainless washers, stainless bolts with the heads milled down and a wrench milled very thin to tighten them up. A big pain in the ***….
 

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You are correct in your thought that the tractor is referenced from the seat and anything on your right side is considered a RH part. And, you ordered the correct taillight according to JDParts.com. Maybe someone in assembly applied the lenses to the wrong side of the part. :unknown:
 

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My bride wiped out all four tail lights, of two tractors, in one summer by attempting to corner too close around trees with low hanging branches. It cracked a few lenses and pulled the steel mounting inserts out of the plastic housings. Utilizing a combination of a press and 3M structural adhesive, I was able to reset the inserts. So all I had to purchase was two replacement lenses. If you have a vise with enough jaw opening, you may be able to use that in lieu of a press.

We have Cozy Cabs for both of the tractors. This model of cab utilizes the ROPS mounted tail lights as its tail lights. So we just leave them on the cabs. I can't recall when I ever worked past dark in the summer and at my age now, that is not likely to ever happen. I remove the cabs in the summer and we just run without the tail lights. I figure it'll keep me married and the bride helping with the mowing if I do. Otherwise, I may bite my tongue off.

You can source the structural adhesive here.
 

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Here is the parts diagram and all of the parts numbers for the various components on the tail lights, plus it shows their assembly.

John Deere Parts Catalog

Some 1025r owners used to flip their lights around and place them on the inside of the ROPS to avoid them being torn off, which seemed to be the best way to protect the lights. It meant swapping the lens front to rear on the assemblies to keep them oriented as they came from the factory, but that is easy to do. That, and not loaning the machine to friends, family, etc.....:laugh::lol:

The ONLY way my equipment is ever loaned to anyone is with me as the operator and in control of it the entire time. Many people have no idea what this equipment costs and when they do break or damage something, the costs can rapidly escalate. Plus, people who don't operate these machines regularly can get themselves and your equipment into a real bind quickly with the short wheelbase, the narrow machine tracking, center of gravity with the FEL (and without it) and on and on.................

It doesn't take long to cause thousands of dollars of damage to these machines when bad things happen. The fact the friend paid for the damage is encouraging as some might have tried to deny the damage had anything to do with them. That's part of why I have a "No Loaner" policy now....

Every U.S. vehicle I am aware of uses the "Standing behind the vehicle facing towards the normal forward direction of travel".....as the orientation for side reference. Left and right, port and starboard, Bow and stern, Fore and Aft, hood and trunk, FEL Loader and 3 point hitch, handlebars and saddlebags.
 

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You are correct in your thought that the tractor is referenced from the seat and anything on your right side is considered a RH part. And, you ordered the correct taillight according to JDParts.com. Maybe someone in assembly applied the lenses to the wrong side of the part. :unknown:
Either assembled wrong or more likely got mis-labeled when packaged. The left & right are exactly the same with the exception of which side the red & black lens is installed. I'm sure both part numbers are boxed in the same facility.

When I replaced my left side recently I checked JDParts to see if my dealer had stock on hand. If they didn't, I would have just gotten the other side & changed the lenses.

You did the right thing Zeke :thumbup1gif:
 

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I'm sick of the big tree grabbing lights! They are always sticking out to be torn off, bent, or otherwise destroyed. I'm tired of spending time backing up and maneuveting around to preserve these crazy expensive lights. They might be fine for open flat fields that somebody has to drive over the road to get to work, but they're a total PITA. I'm seriously considering removing them, then maybe - just maybe - making some quick attach/release mounts (magnetic) and some wiring mods so I can put them on IF I ever need them on the road.

Seriously, how many of you need or use those lights? I can see snow plow work with them, but I don't do that (on purpose).
 

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I'm sick of the big tree grabbing lights! They are always sticking out to be torn off, bent, or otherwise destroyed.

Seriously, how many of you need or use those lights? I can see snow plow work with them, but I don't do that (on purpose).
This ^^^^^^ . 100 % bang on. Unless you are on a public road driving from point A to point B or doing some sort of actual work in or on a public roadway/right of way... you don't need em period. Fancy little baubles waiting to break off and then more dollars to repair.
In the past 2 years of ownership of my 1025R... I can count how many times I've used the amber flashers on one hand and still have some fingers left over. YMMV.
... and I suspect the majority of tractor owners are in this camp as well.
 

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I have a backhoe, so moving them inside the ROPS isn't an option. I'm seriously considering removing them.
 

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A friend has a 1023e. His son was mowing, hit a limb broke the light on one side. He moved the lights to the inside of the ROPS. Son mowing BACKED into a limb. ROPS was folded down. ROPS broke the lights. Now a block of wood is tie wrapped to lower section of ROPS as a stop for folded upper section to prevent it from hitting lights. Alternate solutions, remove lights, don't let son operate tractor.
 

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I will say Kubota seems to have a better handle on this with fender mounted lights. I'm thinking about taking mine off, and using LED tape, or maybe some running lights strung vertically on the back side of my ROPS.
 

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I will say Kubota seems to have a better handle on this with fender mounted lights. I'm thinking about taking mine off, and using LED tape, or maybe some running lights strung vertically on the back side of my ROPS.
Interesting idea. I could see a set of parallel LED strips, red and amber, replacing the current lights with the strips running flush, stuck on the backside of the ROPS. IF one felt the need for taillights and turn signals at all on their tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but Deere's guards bolt thru the ROPS and into the same plastic / threaded insert inside the light housing that originally affixed the lights to the ROPS. It's the plastic / treaded insert that is the weak point, so avoid any contact even with the guard or the whole thing will get torn off, light and guard. It's better then nothing though.

I ended up bolting my lights to the guards and then my guards to the ROPS. But it required a bunch of stainless washers, stainless bolts with the heads milled down and a wrench milled very thin to tighten them up. A big pain in the ***….
That's a good point and in my haste, I didn't really think about it that way. I may have to take some time and consider a similar approach.
 

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Lark, that draw bar caught my eye. Where did you get tht critter?
That looks like your standard Countyline Cat 1 drawbar, available at your local Tractor Supply. I have several of them. Lol...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Here is the parts diagram and all of the parts numbers for the various components on the tail lights, plus it shows their assembly.

John Deere Parts Catalog

Some 1025r owners used to flip their lights around and place them on the inside of the ROPS to avoid them being torn off, which seemed to be the best way to protect the lights. It meant swapping the lens front to rear on the assemblies to keep them oriented as they came from the factory, but that is easy to do. That, and not loaning the machine to friends, family, etc.....:laugh::lol:

The ONLY way my equipment is ever loaned to anyone is with me as the operator and in control of it the entire time. Many people have no idea what this equipment costs and when they do break or damage something, the costs can rapidly escalate. Plus, people who don't operate these machines regularly can get themselves and your equipment into a real bind quickly with the short wheelbase, the narrow machine tracking, center of gravity with the FEL (and without it) and on and on.................

It doesn't take long to cause thousands of dollars of damage to these machines when bad things happen. The fact the friend paid for the damage is encouraging as some might have tried to deny the damage had anything to do with them. That's part of why I have a "No Loaner" policy now....

Every U.S. vehicle I am aware of uses the "Standing behind the vehicle facing towards the normal forward direction of travel".....as the orientation for side reference. Left and right, port and starboard, Bow and stern, Fore and Aft, hood and trunk, FEL Loader and 3 point hitch, handlebars and saddlebags.
I appreaciate what you're saying, and I'll probably sticking to loaning myself with my tractor. In this case, I think it was an opposite problem. The guy I loaned it to was a heavy equipment operator in another life and I think he's used to larger, more rugged equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lark, that draw bar caught my eye. Where did you get tht critter?
I seem to remember a discussion a post about his drawbar a while back. May be in the "What did you do with your SCUT today" post.
 
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