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Broken Taillight Assembly / Added Protective Structure (1025R)

14K views 44 replies 22 participants last post by  DanW 
#1 ·
I let a friend of mine borrow my 1025R a couple of weekends ago...might be the last time that happens. He was going through some trees on his property line and brought it back to me with a broken taillight assembly (Right Side as you sit on the tractor). It was broke at the mounts in addition to a small crack in the amber lens. He zip-tied it back in place and paid me the cash for a new one, but I was still annoyed.

Anyway, I ordered John Deere RH Taillight Assembly - LVA18273 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/Model-1025R_c_1017-3-3.html) and to prevent reoccurance I ordered John Deere Rollover Protective Structure (ROPS) Warning-Light Brush Guard Kit - BLV10400 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Warning-Light-Brush-Guard-Kit-BLV10400.html).

I went to install them this weekend and when I compared the LVA18273 to the one I took off I realized I ordered the wrong side. I don't know how. I know when I talk motorcycles, the right side is the side referenced as you sit on the bike or look at it from the back. I guess tractor-talk is backwards. I was disgusted and put it back in the box.

After some though, I wanted to look at it again to see if I could figure out a way to make it work and I realized the only difference was the red lens and the blackout lens were reversed. I got my trusty phillips screwdrive and blim-blam-boom I had a John Deere LH Taillight Assembly - LVA18272.

Not my tractor, but now I have this:
Transport Orange Lighting Vehicle Automotive exterior
 
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#2 ·
I let a friend of mine borrow my 1025R a couple of weekends ago...might be the last time that happens. He was going through some trees on his property line and brought it back to me with a broken taillight assembly (Right Side as you sit on the tractor). It was broke at the mounts in addition to a small crack in the amber lens. He zip-tied it back in place and paid me the cash for a new one, but I was still annoyed.

Anyway, I ordered John Deere RH Taillight Assembly - LVA18273 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/Model-1025R_c_1017-3-3.html) and to prevent reoccurance I ordered John Deere Rollover Protective Structure (ROPS) Warning-Light Brush Guard Kit - BLV10400 (https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Warning-Light-Brush-Guard-Kit-BLV10400.html).

I went to install them this weekend and when I compared the LVA18273 to the one I took off I realized I ordered the wrong side. I don't know how. I know when I talk motorcycles, the right side is the side referenced as you sit on the bike or look at it from the back. I guess tractor-talk is backwards. I was disgusted and put it back in the box.

After some though, I wanted to look at it again to see if I could figure out a way to make it work and I realized the only difference was the red lens and the blackout lens were reversed. I got my trusty phillips screwdrive and blim-blam-boom I had a John Deere LH Taillight Assembly - LVA18272.

Not my tractor, but now I have this:
View attachment 689492
Nice. I just ordered that BLV10400 from Amazon the other day for my 1023E. I do spend a lot of time in the woods with that tractor, but mainly I am looking for a place to mount some LED floods. I contemplate mounting them on the black plastic cover fender where they are on the 1025R, but I think higher up will work better (I did add the black covers LVU32985 and LVU30308).
 
#4 ·
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but Deere's guards bolt thru the ROPS and into the same plastic / threaded insert inside the light housing that originally affixed the lights to the ROPS. It's the plastic / treaded insert that is the weak point, so avoid any contact even with the guard or the whole thing will get torn off, light and guard. It's better then nothing though.

I ended up bolting my lights to the guards and then my guards to the ROPS. But it required a bunch of stainless washers, stainless bolts with the heads milled down and a wrench milled very thin to tighten them up. A big pain in the ***….
 
#17 ·
That's a good point and in my haste, I didn't really think about it that way. I may have to take some time and consider a similar approach.
 
#5 ·
You are correct in your thought that the tractor is referenced from the seat and anything on your right side is considered a RH part. And, you ordered the correct taillight according to JDParts.com. Maybe someone in assembly applied the lenses to the wrong side of the part. :unknown:
 
#8 ·
Either assembled wrong or more likely got mis-labeled when packaged. The left & right are exactly the same with the exception of which side the red & black lens is installed. I'm sure both part numbers are boxed in the same facility.

When I replaced my left side recently I checked JDParts to see if my dealer had stock on hand. If they didn't, I would have just gotten the other side & changed the lenses.

You did the right thing Zeke :thumbup1gif:
 
#6 ·
My bride wiped out all four tail lights, of two tractors, in one summer by attempting to corner too close around trees with low hanging branches. It cracked a few lenses and pulled the steel mounting inserts out of the plastic housings. Utilizing a combination of a press and 3M structural adhesive, I was able to reset the inserts. So all I had to purchase was two replacement lenses. If you have a vise with enough jaw opening, you may be able to use that in lieu of a press.

We have Cozy Cabs for both of the tractors. This model of cab utilizes the ROPS mounted tail lights as its tail lights. So we just leave them on the cabs. I can't recall when I ever worked past dark in the summer and at my age now, that is not likely to ever happen. I remove the cabs in the summer and we just run without the tail lights. I figure it'll keep me married and the bride helping with the mowing if I do. Otherwise, I may bite my tongue off.

You can source the structural adhesive here.
 
#7 ·
Here is the parts diagram and all of the parts numbers for the various components on the tail lights, plus it shows their assembly.

John Deere Parts Catalog

Some 1025r owners used to flip their lights around and place them on the inside of the ROPS to avoid them being torn off, which seemed to be the best way to protect the lights. It meant swapping the lens front to rear on the assemblies to keep them oriented as they came from the factory, but that is easy to do. That, and not loaning the machine to friends, family, etc.....:laugh::lol:

The ONLY way my equipment is ever loaned to anyone is with me as the operator and in control of it the entire time. Many people have no idea what this equipment costs and when they do break or damage something, the costs can rapidly escalate. Plus, people who don't operate these machines regularly can get themselves and your equipment into a real bind quickly with the short wheelbase, the narrow machine tracking, center of gravity with the FEL (and without it) and on and on.................

It doesn't take long to cause thousands of dollars of damage to these machines when bad things happen. The fact the friend paid for the damage is encouraging as some might have tried to deny the damage had anything to do with them. That's part of why I have a "No Loaner" policy now....

Every U.S. vehicle I am aware of uses the "Standing behind the vehicle facing towards the normal forward direction of travel".....as the orientation for side reference. Left and right, port and starboard, Bow and stern, Fore and Aft, hood and trunk, FEL Loader and 3 point hitch, handlebars and saddlebags.
 
#19 ·
I appreaciate what you're saying, and I'll probably sticking to loaning myself with my tractor. In this case, I think it was an opposite problem. The guy I loaned it to was a heavy equipment operator in another life and I think he's used to larger, more rugged equipment.
 
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#9 · (Edited)
I'm sick of the big tree grabbing lights! They are always sticking out to be torn off, bent, or otherwise destroyed. I'm tired of spending time backing up and maneuveting around to preserve these crazy expensive lights. They might be fine for open flat fields that somebody has to drive over the road to get to work, but they're a total PITA. I'm seriously considering removing them, then maybe - just maybe - making some quick attach/release mounts (magnetic) and some wiring mods so I can put them on IF I ever need them on the road.

Seriously, how many of you need or use those lights? I can see snow plow work with them, but I don't do that (on purpose).
 
#10 · (Edited)
I'm sick of the big tree grabbing lights! They are always sticking out to be torn off, bent, or otherwise destroyed.

Seriously, how many of you need or use those lights? I can see snow plow work with them, but I don't do that (on purpose).
This ^^^^^^ . 100 % bang on. Unless you are on a public road driving from point A to point B or doing some sort of actual work in or on a public roadway/right of way... you don't need em period. Fancy little baubles waiting to break off and then more dollars to repair.
In the past 2 years of ownership of my 1025R... I can count how many times I've used the amber flashers on one hand and still have some fingers left over. YMMV.
... and I suspect the majority of tractor owners are in this camp as well.
 
#12 ·
I have a backhoe, so moving them inside the ROPS isn't an option. I'm seriously considering removing them.
 
#18 ·
That looks like your standard Countyline Cat 1 drawbar, available at your local Tractor Supply. I have several of them. Lol...
 
#14 ·
A friend has a 1023e. His son was mowing, hit a limb broke the light on one side. He moved the lights to the inside of the ROPS. Son mowing BACKED into a limb. ROPS was folded down. ROPS broke the lights. Now a block of wood is tie wrapped to lower section of ROPS as a stop for folded upper section to prevent it from hitting lights. Alternate solutions, remove lights, don't let son operate tractor.
 
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#15 ·
I will say Kubota seems to have a better handle on this with fender mounted lights. I'm thinking about taking mine off, and using LED tape, or maybe some running lights strung vertically on the back side of my ROPS.
 
#23 ·
The 11 hole bar itself is 26" without measuring the pins. The overall length with the pins is 31-1/2". Common size for tractors like the 1025. Here's a picture of mine. I added the bushings and lynch pins to fit my Imatch.

Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Tire Automotive tire


TSC...about $30
 
#25 ·
Personally I feel loaning out a tractor the equivalent of co-signing a note...nothing really good can come of it since borrower hasn't the resources to own his own. Now having said that I have some mixed emotions about the whole ROP matter and even the lighting issue. I have a 1025R and the ROP is totally in the way. I have it down to the posts and am thinking of removing them. From my previous posts I don't think the public at large is using seat belts anymore and per all my instructions the ROP is not effective unless seat belts are used. While I'm more than interested in safety...I majority conclude that "I'm the safety engineer" and decide if tractor is to be used inappropriately or not. I recommend only the appropriate use on safe terrain. I see 4 wheelers speeding up my local road at 40-50 miles an hour without any rops. I know manufacturers are always pushing every safety gadget or invention they can and add to the consumer but I'm not sure how effective these are. I'm not advocating any alteration of equipment but I see it being done daily with posts about items some of which is not being manufactured by corporations. But this is just one 74 year old tractor man's opinion.
 
#26 ·
Personally I feel loaning out a tractor the equivalent of co-signing a note...nothing really good can come of it since borrower hasn't the resources to own his own.
Here is the classic issue I see with loaning equipment......A neighbor, who has totally destroyed his own mower with a series of really stupid and negligent moves, asks another neighbor to borrow his John Deere x730 to mow his nearly 8.5 acre lawn. The neighbor who owns the x730 is very particular about things, as am I, and out of a sense of "friendship", he loans the tractor to the neighbor.

I come home today and I see my neighbors x730 mowing the other neighbors lawn, with the guy who borrowed the mower's 12 year old daughter driving it and dad is no where to be seen. Now, maybe the 12 year old is a better operator than her dad, because lord knows he has torn up a ton of stuff with fairly pointless stupidity, but I know the owner of the tractor well enough to know this is not what he had in mind when he loaned it. Even my wife says "that tractor will probably be damaged when **** gets it back" and I agree 100%.................

I don't loan equipment for the same reason I wouldn't buy rental equipment used by others. Many people just don't care about equipment and they care even less when they don't own it. I guarantee you had my neighbor known the plan was to have the 12 year old mowing with his tractor, he likely wouldn't have agreed.
 
#28 ·
As a comment on some of the posts with the modified drawbars...one needs to be extra careful with these as they "dramatically" change the center of gravity and will create a tire surfing issue very rapidly. They were communing used on the Ford small tractors and were very accident related. The center of gravity for all the tractors is at the factory belly hitch. I've known of several fatalities with these...but just a word of caution from an "old timmer".
 
#31 · (Edited)
Probably getting too far off topic, but the only way my stuff is going to be seen being used in a neighbor's yard, is if I'm the one using it. Now I know I've been seen using my 1025r with the loader and backhoe on my own property, but no one around me has ever asked me about it.
 
#32 · (Edited)
It doesn't take long for astute neighbors to see how efficient these SCUTS and CUTS are at getting a wide range of projects completed. If neighbors can see you on your property, they have likely seen you using your equipment. As I have said before, I don't mind giving people a hand, but I also don't think it's reasonable for others to expect the owner of the tractor or equipment to wear it out performing projects for others for free.

When neighbors will contact me and ask about doing something, whether it's moving top soil, mounds of mulch, etc. I always respond, "What's it worth for you to have me move all of the topsoil instead of you spending all weekend with the wheel barrow and shovel?" If they respond with a reasonable number, I will be glad to help them out. If they respond with Beer or something similar, it's of no interest to me since I don't drink any alcohol.

Each of us need to have a "value" in mind for what our time and our investment in our equipment is worth. Every time you use your equipment, you are consuming fuel, wearing out belts, reducing the remaining life of fluids, reducing the remaining life of the machine. It's wise to know what it actually costs to use your equipment per hour in not only fuel, but the reoccurring service costs (Oil changes and Hydro changes, etc.) plus the equipment doesn't have a limitless life.

Another way to determine these costs if you don't want to take the time to break them down is to simply see what someone would pay to rent comparable equipment from a equipment rental business. They know what the equipment costs to operate and eventually replace. In our area, it costs $275 to rent a SCUT (which happens to be a 3025e Deere with FEL) which they rent for $185 for 4 hours or $275 for 8 hours. Each machine hour over 8 adds another $20 per hour, plus fuel costs. The implements are extra, so a 3 point mower rents for another $85 a day, pallet forks for $45 per day. Plus they have to pay pick up and delivery costs or get the equipment themselves, but most don't have the equipment to pull a 5,000 lb double axle trailer. So a tractor and rear "brush hog" type mower rents for $360 per day, or $45 per hour assuming 8 hours of use.

If someone thinks they should be able to get you to use your equipment for less than what it costs to rent a comparable machine, then let them either buy their own or find someone else to wear out their equipment.

While I am typing this, I just got a text message from two different neighbors. They are both going to be out of town this week. Normally, they mow their own lawns (with a x730 and a x485 Deere, respectively). They ask me to mow this week if it dries out, so it's not a foot tall when they get home. I charge $50 per lawn for the mower use only, no trimming, etc and they are happy as am I.........It takes me about 30 to 40 minutes to mow each one.

These are just examples, but I do think its better to think about such issues as what you would need for the use of you and your equipment so you have an idea so when it does come up, you are fair to your neighbor and also of equal importance, fair to yourself.........

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with helping out a friend or buddy at no charge, but not everyone should get the "buddy deal". I always look at it and ask myself, "Would they offer to do the same to help me if I asked?" if the answer is no, they are charged, if the answer it yes, it likely won't cost them anything............
 
#33 ·
Well put, Sulleybear. I also live in a neighborhood where about 6 neighbors don't bear the expense of tractors and equipment. I have two, which are the 1025R with backhoe and a 4400. I also measure my assistance with neighbors, sometime charge and sometimes trade out activities. I passed the question of value many years ago and know how valuable the services are. Never let anyone put a guilt or obligation trip on my activities. This is an unreasonable burden to ever bear as it involves self respect and I am the only one to measure my charges or gifts.
 
#34 ·
I have use same system Sulley, with regard to charging or not.
I have one neighbor who is willing to help, but most times cant. I still do quite a lot at no charge for him. The issue I have at times is getting him to realize that rubbing the dirt off my tractor actually creates lots of little scratches in the painted surfaces, that I dont want scratched up...I remind him once in a while.
I dont loan out anything anymore. If the tractor, or anything else, needs to go somewhere, I go with it. If Im not available, neither is the thing that needs borrowed.
There are a few exceptions to that. VERY few.


Back to the OPs issue and the ROPS lights.
If you dont need em, take em off. Quite a few of us do use them on or near roads, where the warning lights are welcome, and generally not nearly enough.
In my case, Im adding LED strobes front and rear for that purpose.
They can be had fairly cheaply, especially compared to the cost of new lights.
One could add them directly to the ROPS bars, but a resistor would likely be needed, as others have mentioned issues when using LED replacement bulbs.
 
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#35 ·
I spend enough time in the woods at the back of my property that I figured the brush guards were probably a good idea, and I use the thing enough at dusk that I also opted for lights. I spend $20 for 12,800 lumens between the two lights, about $15 for a pair of magnets and a few bucks for two 2-pin flat wiring harnesses. I just mounted the lights magnetically on top of the brush guard. They're on plugs too, so I can disconnect and mount them elsewhere, turn them in whatever direction, or mount other lights (although I've found that 12,800 lumens is plenty for my needs). The system works great. The lights bolted up perfectly to the magnets without alteration, although I must confess that those 277 lb magnets are much more powerful than I need. Taking them off, even turning them, is a bit of a stuggle.



 
#36 ·
Has anyone with the backhoe actually tried the inside swap or is it just assumed that itll be an issue? I just took my backhoe off yesterday to add the 3 pt hitch. On getting it assembled I discovered that I was missing a pin. My dealer is about 1 minute from home so I stopped this morning to get one. While I was there I asked about the brush guards and they happenednto have a set in stock so I grabbed tje set. On getting home I looked again and not sure why I couldnt put them inside even with the hoe on but I didnt look real close. Id be glad to move them inside, return the brush guards, and possibly remove the ROPS mounted grab handle. One thing I like about the ROPS on the 2025 is that it wont interfere with the 3 pt center link if its folded down and bungeed tigjt to itself. The 1025 did.
 
#37 ·
I had to replace one of my light assemblies and added the guard set.
I must say I was a bit disappointed that in fact the nutserts imbedded in the plastic still take the brunt of the punishment if you hit a branch.
I did notice though that I was able to add one extra bolt to each lamp.
This bolt if I remember correctly only attached the guard to a nutsert that wasn't being used to mount through the rops, but I figured it was 50% more mounting than I had.
 
#38 ·
This was a great thread to find. I got one zip tied on as of last Saturday. I’m gonna have to guard them or take them off. Too many trees.
 
#39 ·
The ROPS guards don't really help protect the lights much. They bolt into the same plastic carriers that the lights themselves bolt into. Now, instead of just the lights ripping out of the ROPs attachment point, the whole thing, ROPS guard and lights, rip out. In this application, kind of a pointless exercise overall. From my standpoint, the only thing the guards did was give me a place to mount magnetic bases for the lights. They protect little or nothing.
 
#45 · (Edited)
I have to disagree with this assessment. The guard certainly helped protect my lights.

Gas Machine


It's true the guard bolts on using the same captive nuts molded into the light housing, but the nuts can't rip out of the guard, just the plastic. And if/when they do the guard is still firmly bolted to the ROPS. Without the guard I don't think I'd have the lights on the left side of my tractor anymore. As it was, all I had to do was unbolt the assembly, hammer the captive nuts back into the light housing and reattach.

Automotive lighting Automotive tail & brake light Light Automotive parking light Lighting


The guards didn't prevent damage, but they did limit the damage and save me from having to buy a whole new light assembly.
 
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