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Discussion Starter #1
I'm building a ballast box for my new 1025R. Not at all interested in buying one, I'm enjoying the project. I have the JD iMatch hitch and understand the category 3 bushings and 1 to 3 converters. My question is, why would I NOT want to just buy some Cat 3 pins for it and weld them in place as part of the build? Seems like the way to go to me, but wanted to make sure I'm not missing something.
 

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There is nothing wrong with that whatsoever.
 
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I would do the same exact thing. Smart move. :good2:
 

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I’d say go for it. Once you go imatch you’ll never look back. I made a homemade bb as well and later had to modify it to fit my hitch.

Make sure you test fit and they’re nice and straight before welding them on. Ask me how I know
 

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The only concern I'd have is resale, if or when.
 
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The only concern I'd have is resale, if or when.
That's the only disadvantage I could see as well. It will be an implement that can ONLY ever be used with an iMatch. Given that you can get a set of bushing for $10 I'd just stick with a Cat-1 pin.
 

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I'm building a ballast box for my new 1025R. Not at all interested in buying one, I'm enjoying the project. I have the JD iMatch hitch and understand the category 3 bushings and 1 to 3 converters. My question is, why would I NOT want to just buy some Cat 3 pins for it and weld them in place as part of the build? Seems like the way to go to me, but wanted to make sure I'm not missing something.
When I built mine (here) I thought about doing the same thing. I've done it before on other things, I had the round stock of the correct diameters. In the end, I decided to make it dual mount, I welded a top pin in that was Cat 3, but also put a Cat 1 pin hole on the top and used pins and adapters for the lift arms. I didn't really consider resale part of my motivation, but more of just keeping my options open. Once you make it quick hitch only, that's the only option you have. I also like the mushroom design of the adapter for the lift arms.

If I'm ever without my quick hitch, I can still use my ballast box. I've loaned my quick hitch out with an implement when a friend had a big project and didn't own his own.
 

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That's the only disadvantage I could see as well. It will be an implement that can ONLY ever be used with an iMatch. Given that you can get a set of bushing for $10 I'd just stick with a Cat-1 pin.
I'd probably drill holes and use these in CAT 3...

se-006152-a.jpg
 

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Building a ballast box myself right now, trying to decide which way to go. :dunno:

Bushings would seem to be an easy solution that doesn't lock you in. :dunno:
 

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Depending on how wishy washy you really want to be, you could weld the nuts inside in a manner that allows you to change the pins. I'm pretty sure you can get cat 3 and cat 1 pins with the same threaded size. I know you can get cat 2 and cat 1 that way, I had to change my brush mower that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Building a ballast box myself right now, trying to decide which way to go. :dunno:

Bushings would seem to be an easy solution that doesn't lock you in. :dunno:
Yeah, I'm starting to lean that way too. Nice to have options. I guess there's no real advantage to going Cat 3 on the pins, anyway. Have to buy the bushings for a Cat 1, but I can get those locally for $12. Cheaper than the drill bit I'd need to make a hole big enough for a Cat 3 or Cat 2 to 3 pin.

I appreciate the input.

I'm planning on using some 1/8" steel plate I already have laying around. Is that thick enough steel? I'd sure think so, but I don't know how thick the metal is in the JD BB.
 

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I'm planning on using some 1/8" steel plate I already have laying around. Is that thick enough steel? I'd sure think so, but I don't know how thick the metal is in the JD BB.
1/8" is fine, just reinforce and tie together the three mounting points inside.

FYI here is the JD box dimensions:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Kenny. I already had the dimension from another thread here, but do you have a picture of how the mounting points are tied together inside the box?
 

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Thanks Kenny. I already had the dimension from another thread here, but do you have a picture of how the mounting points are tied together inside the box?
The mounting points aren't tied together.
 
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Thanks Kenny. I already had the dimension from another thread here, but do you have a picture of how the mounting points are tied together inside the box?
No sir, I don't, as JG wrote below in the OEM box they aren't. If you search some on google some you'll get some ideas, there are homemade BB builds on many different forums.





The mounting points aren't tied together.
In the JD box, that is correct, but the pin area has an extra plate on the side that extends the width of the box, and the top angle is welded to rolled steel for strength. Since I'm assuming the OP can't duplicate the engineered JD design with 100% accuracy, I made the suggestion to tie them together for strength.
 

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In the JD box, that is correct, but the pin area has an extra plate on the side that extends the width of the box, and the top angle is welded to rolled steel for strength. Since I'm assuming the OP can't duplicate the engineered JD design with 100% accuracy, I made the suggestion to tie them together for strength.
Agree this would be a good idea. Especially if working with single layer 1/8" steel. It would seem fairly easy though to weld on an additional strip of material to the outside of the box sides where the pins are to sort of duplicate what JD did.
 
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Yeah, I'm starting to lean that way too. Nice to have options. I guess there's no real advantage to going Cat 3 on the pins, anyway. Have to buy the bushings for a Cat 1, but I can get those locally for $12. Cheaper than the drill bit I'd need to make a hole big enough for a Cat 3 or Cat 2 to 3 pin.

I appreciate the input.

I'm planning on using some 1/8" steel plate I already have laying around. Is that thick enough steel? I'd sure think so, but I don't know how thick the metal is in the JD BB.
1/8" plate should be good enough for the walls, but I would beef it up a little where the pins and center link attach.
3/8" X 4" wide flat bar shouldn't cost that much.
Down here you can buy it in 10' lengths.

I'm going a different route because of the iron I have available and making the weight of it variable.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No sir, I don't, as JG wrote below in the OEM box they aren't. If you search some on google some you'll get some ideas, there are homemade BB builds on many different forums.

In the JD box, that is correct, but the pin area has an extra plate on the side that extends the width of the box, and the top angle is welded to rolled steel for strength. Since I'm assuming the OP can't duplicate the engineered JD design with 100% accuracy, I made the suggestion to tie them together for strength.
Got you, thanks again. I was going to weld the 3/8" steel on the sides, like on the JD box. Could just run one across the back, too.

So what thickness is the steel in the walls of the JD box? I don't mind buying a thicker plate steel, if 1/8" is not enough.

You could also get a draw bar of the correct width and put that into you design. They are harder to find in quick hitch width, but I know they make them because I have one. You'd still need the bushings, but it would solve any strength problems and give you a solid base if you wanted to put anything for pulling into the design.

Here's one after a quick search: Amazon.com: Northern Tool and Equipment 04010100 Pto Drawbar-Category 1, 26In.L: Home Improvement
Cool, thanks! I saw those at one of the local farm stores, and wondered what they were for. If I welded that on, it would both save me having to drill/weld pins on the sides, and strengthen the box. I'll have to give that one some thought.
 

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​I can find out later for you if no one does before that.
 
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