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Was out pushing back snow piles on the side of the driveway with the tractor this afternoon and had a loud "CLUNK!". Looked down and the tire chain on my left rear tire was lying in a pile. It was supposed to stay wrapped around my tire! :laugh:

The hook that holds the chain ends together on the inside of the tire bent until it was open enough to let the chain slip and things just unraveled from there.

I can bend the hook back as a short term repair but my guess is that once bent and bent back, it's just going to bend again and again until it finally just breaks entirely.

Tirechains.com sells the replacement hooks but is there any reason I can't just use a quicklink in place of the hook?

020418290725.jpg

Seems to me that the quicklink isn't going to come off unless I take it off.
 

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That should work perfectly :good2:
 

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That should work perfectly :good2:

Pffft! Well you're just easy. :laugh:

How many times do you figure someone could bend one of those hooks before it just snaps off?
 

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How many times do you figure someone could bend one of those hooks before it just snaps off?
Those hooks should not bend. It sounds like the Chineseum was not tempered properly. :banghead: :flag_of_truce:
 

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Was out pushing back snow piles on the side of the driveway with the tractor this afternoon and had a loud "CLUNK!". Looked down and the tire chain on my left rear tire was lying in a pile. It was supposed to stay wrapped around my tire! :laugh:

The hook that holds the chain ends together on the inside of the tire bent until it was open enough to let the chain slip and things just unraveled from there.

I can bend the hook back as a short term repair but my guess is that once bent and bent back, it's just going to bend again and again until it finally just breaks entirely.

Tirechains.com sells the replacement hooks but is there any reason I can't just use a quicklink in place of the hook?

View attachment 674938

Seems to me that the quicklink isn't going to come off unless I take it off.
Jim,

Those links are what I used to extend the side chains on my 2032R.

Not sure if you recall but I had a set of chains previously used on the 2320 w. R4's. I extended them and added five or six cross chains to fit the larger diameter R3's on the 2032R. This required lengthening the side chains and those repair links worked perfectly. I used the 3/8" diameter links.



 

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Was out pushing back snow piles on the side of the driveway with the tractor this afternoon and had a loud "CLUNK!". Looked down and the tire chain on my left rear tire was lying in a pile. It was supposed to stay wrapped around my tire! :laugh:

The hook that holds the chain ends together on the inside of the tire bent until it was open enough to let the chain slip and things just unraveled from there.
I can bend the hook back as a short term repair but my guess is that once bent and bent back, it's just going to bend again and again until it finally just breaks entirely.
Tirechains.com sells the replacement hooks but is there any reason I can't just use a quicklink in place of the hook?

Seems to me that the quicklink isn't going to come off unless I take it off.
I've been using those for years. :thumbup1gif:
Do yourself a BIG favor and buy them in stainless steel, you'll thank me when you need to remove them.
 

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You got lucky! I always think that if a chain comes loose it is going to wrap itself around something underneath then bind the wheel up making a royal mess - then have to try to get it off laying in the snow as the tractor won’t move.

I’ve used those links you pictured for lots of things over the years and have worked great. I keep a few in my tractor parts drawer.
 

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I have used bungee cords rather than snubbers to keep the chains taught on the wheel and used duct tape over the connector links.
 

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Wow... I cannot imagine something bending those 3/8" hooks. I had to remove a couple cross links to fix some that were twisted and even using the 34" long tire chain tool that tirechain.com sells it still took two men and a boy to lever those hooks open to remove them.
 

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Tirechains.com sells the replacement hooks but is there any reason I can't just use a quicklink in place of the hook?
Not to alter the subject but I was going to get a couple repair links from Tirechain.com to keep on hand but they will only sell them in quantities of 4 or 6 (depending on version). To make matters worse, their minimum shipping charge is like $17. So it would have ended up costing me over $50 just for an extra repair link. Considering that they are only a 130 miles from me here in PA paying $17 shipping is beyond ridiculous. Not sure why tossing a couple in a padded envelope and slapping on $0.85 postage isn't an option.
 

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Do yourself a BIG favor and buy them in stainless steel, you'll thank me when you need to remove them.
That, and since you are using this to replace the hook that will be used to remove the chain, a little anti-seize aka never seize may be a good idea as well.
 

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Not to alter the subject but I was going to get a couple repair links from Tirechain.com to keep on hand but they will only sell them in quantities of 4 or 6 (depending on version). .....
Check with your local auto parts store, they maybe to help you with OEM type repair links for your chains.
 

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Check with your local auto parts store, they maybe to help you with OEM type repair links for your chains.
Agree. I think TSC also has them for less than $2.00. I just need to stop by a store.
 

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From what I read, JimR needs to replace a hook like the ones here. Or something to replace it. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Busted the same thing on the 3038e last year when the "J" caught on the 3PH sway control. Just cut it off & replaced it with a quick link. Still there & used it this year ...
 

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Had to run to Tractor Supply to pick up chicken feed today so I did my shopping there and grabbed a half dozen stainless quicklinks.

Spent 45 minutes this afternoon taking the bent hook off and getting the chain back on the tire. DONE! Mission accomplished and back in service.

Pic of the bent hook is below. The end that still has a hook to it was the end I had to open to take it off this afternoon.


Hook.jpg
 

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Busted the same thing on the 3038e last year when the "J" caught on the 3PH sway control. Just cut it off & replaced it with a quick link. Still there & used it this year ...
That is exactly what I'm replacing.
Had to run to Tractor Supply to pick up chicken feed today so I did my shopping there and grabbed a half dozen stainless quicklinks.

Spent 45 minutes this afternoon taking the bent hook off and getting the chain back on the tire. DONE! Mission accomplished and back in service.

Pic of the bent hook is below. The end that still has a hook to it was the end I had to open to take it off this afternoon.
View attachment 675036
Is it possible that your hook caught on something like nikdfish reported. It's hard to imagine that hook just opening up. It those cases, the quick link would be the clear deal - nothing to catch.

My older 2032R has next to zero clearance between the tires and 3-pt arms. Not sure how I'd ever get chains to work on it.
 

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My older 2032R has next to zero clearance between the tires and 3-pt arms. Not sure how I'd ever get chains to work on it.

My 2032R is a year older than your's. With the wheels in the narrow position you're right. I put the chains on with the wheels in the narrow position the 1st time and there was no way I was going to run with less than 1/2" of space between the chain and the 3pt lift arms. But in the wide position there is about 2" of space.

There aren't any marks on the 3pt arm indicating that anything got caught on it.

When the hook bent and chain popped off I was being a little rough on the machine. The driveway has been getting narrower and narrower with each snow storm so I put my back blade on, flipped it backwards and started ramming into the snow banks in reverse (high range, full speed) to knock them back a few feet. I was doing that at a 45 degree angle across the driveway in 4WD with the heel of my boot stomped on the diff lock because as I backed into the snow banks the right rear tire would spin a little on the ice at the bottom of the pile. So the left rear tire was providing most if not all of my traction. And since the driveway is paved, it's possible that the wheel spun some and it just happened to be when the last cross link right where the hook was located was carrying the load for the entire machine.

I have no idea what that hook is rated for as far as load goes but I think it just realized it was losing the tug-of-war against the full power of the 2032R and gave up. :laugh:
 

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My 2032R is a year older than your's. With the wheels in the narrow position you're right. I put the chains on with the wheels in the narrow position the 1st time and there was no way I was going to run with less than 1/2" of space between the chain and the 3pt lift arms. But in the wide position there is about 2" of space.

When the hook bent and chain popped off I was being a little rough on the machine. The driveway has been getting narrower and narrower with each snow storm so I put my back blade on, flipped it backwards and started ramming into the snow banks in reverse (high range, full speed) to knock them back a few feet. I was doing that at a 45 degree angle across the driveway in 4WD with the heel of my boot stomped on the diff lock because as I backed into the snow banks the right rear tire would spin a little on the ice at the bottom of the pile. So the left rear tire was providing most if not all of my traction. And since the driveway is paved, it's possible that the wheel spun some and it just happened to be when the last cross link right where the hook was located was carrying the load for the entire machine.
Umm... I see you have a Gen-1 2032R, which is the same as a 2720. I would recommend not doing what you described above anymore. The 3PH on these tractors is a bit fragile when it comes to pushing things in reverse. The 3PH lower arms are supported by a shaft that runs through a little embossment on the drop-down aluminum axle covers. There have been several reports of these covers breaking and it can be quite expensive to repair. Below is a photo of a broken cover. The broken piece has been laid back in place to show where it goes. The arrows show the two places where it broke off.

I have a 2720 and this is one area of the tractor that doesn't give me warm fuzzy feelings. After each plowing session I always take a quick look at the two axle cases to ensure nothing has broken off.

 

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