Buying a used chainsaw advice

I've got a 362 and the 20" bar and that's a very good match. It might be a touch underpowered for a 24" bar. It would pull it but you might have to be a bit careful.

A 440 or 460 would pull that length chain and not think about it but finding one of those in good condition is tough. They are also a bit heavier and unless I need the extra bar length, I'll pick up my 362 9 times out of 10 over our 440. 30 years ago, I would have taken the 440 just so I could cut anything but I don't have the desire to run anything that's heavier than needed now. My strength or lack thereof is a bigger issue than the saw power.

Since you've got a saw that mostly works well for you, I'd take the time to find what you want. A pro saw will get you more longevity and better usability. Things like better anti-vibration technology, variable oiling, better air filtration etc. means you can use it for longer stretches between maintenance. You might get double dogs or a full wrap handle and/or a full chisel chain vs. a safety chain. The difference in the chain is significant both for cutting speed and safety. Kickback on a bigger saw is very, very significant especially with a full chisel chain.

If you have a good dealer in the area, I'd talk with them and let them know what you are looking for. Sometimes they will get pro grade saws in from people trading down. They buy a larger saw thinking bigger is better and it either wears them out or scares the heck out of them so they bring it back and trade down for something that suites them better. It doesn't happen everyday but does happen. People also forget these are two stroke engines and run straight gas with predictable results. A good repair shop will replace what's necessary on a pro saw- crank, piston, cylinder and resell it as a trade in which is fine.

Treefarmer

They don't pop up much used but if you come across a Makita 6401 saw give it a good look. I ran a 24" bar on mine for years and it was great. I dropped back down to the 20" bar it came stock with when it came time to replace the 24" bar. I don't have much need for the longer bar anymore.

The Makita is a stock Dolmar 6400 saw with different colored covers. Dolmar has been making saws in Germany for a loong time. The 6400 is a 59cc saw rated at 4.9hp. a common upgrade a lot of 6400 owners do is to swap the jug and piston out for the 7900. Dolmar uses all the same parts on 3 different sized saws except for the pistons and jugs. So the 7900 jug and piston are a direct factory fit. Taking the 59cc saw to a 79cc saw for $140 in parts.

Home Depot uses (or at least they used to) the Makita as their rental saw when you rent a chainsaw. You can sometimes find them for cheap as a used rental. Parts to rebuild them are easy to get.

I've got 13 years on my saw and it still starts as easy as it did right out if the box. They are worth a look if you find one.
Always been on my list to do the power upgrade but never needed to.

If a 440 or 460 is part of the discussion, their clones should be.


I actually heard positive reviews from reputable YouTubers and parts are interchangeable with stihl. For $140 I’d give it a try.

rydplrs said:

If a 440 or 460 is part of the discussion, their clones should be.

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I actually heard positive reviews from reputable YouTubers and parts are interchangeable with stihl. For $140 I’d give it a try.

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I dunno that thing scares me. It specs a 25:1 oil mix and recommends 20:1 for reliable operation. I can just imagine how much smoke that thing makes.

PikeCoGreenTractorMan said:

If the saw you're considering buying runs, start and hold the bar tip against wood while throttling up to ensure that the auto-bar oiler works, in addition to the other tips here.

The obvious advice is to not purchase another's headache or nightmare,

Brian

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Good advice but frequently if the chain isn't being oiled, it's just the ports in the bar are plugged up by sawdust. That's an easy fix but replacing the oiler is a bit harder.

Treefarmer

Pull the side cover and check the clutch for purple overheat coloring. When being overworked, they can actually melt the plastic around them. Taking out stumps at or below ground level will trash a saw in minutes. Same with trying to cut with a dull blade. Discoloration of the bar is another sign of abuse.

JAllen said:

All:

I'm in the market for a larger chainsaw - something that can run a 24-25" bar without too much trouble. My Husqvarna runs great but every once in a while, its just a little bit underpowered. I've been shopping for used ones and found a few used Stihl "pro" saws near me that I'm planning on looking at. I'm not looking to go into the professional firewood business - I would like to have something that is reliable, cuts fast and can handle the larger jobs that I've been running into recently.

Question 1: Beyond cosmetics, what are some items I should pay attention to when looking at them? BTW, the prices seem all over the map so I'm not sure price is indicative of condition. I'm willing to make a few repairs but I'm not sure I want to completely overhaul a saw right now. I can imagine the list would include:

1. Engine smokes badly or doesn't start.
2. Broken pull rope and can't test it.
3. Bar/chain condition.
4. Brake functioning?
5. Broken/missing parts.
6. Air filter condition.

Anything else I should look for?

Question 2: Of the following, any thoughts on :

1. MS391 w/ 25" bar for $500: I know this is not a "pro saw." Seller says it is basically new - only used once in two years.
2. New MS391 from dealer is $639.
3. 038 AV Super w/ 20" bar for $600. Pictures show new bar and decent condition.
4. MS362 with lower vibrationspring for $350. Bar length not include. Seller claims it runs well. I assume one of the springs on the handle is broken. Could be indicative of some rough use or an accident? Or it could be just a cheap repair.
5. 038 AV Farm Boss w/ 24" bar for $350.
6. Stihl MS362 w/ 20" bar for $550. Pic show reasonable condition. Seller reports its been "tested" but I'm not sure what that means.

There don't seem to be many Husqvarna saws available in my area but I would imagine the advice will apply to them.

Any other thoughts/suggestions?

Thank you very much.

John

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I buy most things used mostly because i hate paying the 15 percent tax we have in Canada. Chainsaws are one thing i like to buy new because i run pro saws and when you find them used there are mostly beat. My thoughts on that. Kent

Carefully consider the difference between a used and new that's specific to your purpose.
If you are buying a used Poulan for roots and brush thats probably ok, but if you are buying a saw to log/timber/buck.. you may as well go new to avoid issues for somehting you will keep forever.
Look at Echo for "pro" features at reasonable expense.. I just got a CS490 and its more than I'll ever need and looks extremely well built.

I bought one saw used off Facebook, it had only a couple hours on it. That was my 550XP. It was a heck of a deal, on a heck of a saw.
My other two used saws I bought came from arboristsite. Id trust them almost without issue. My "big" saw is a 562XP, which came from a guy there, and it arrived looking new, though it wasnt. It will easily handle a 24" bar, assuming you arent trying to run full chisel chain in hardwood. Even then, slow down a bit, and it works fine. I run semi-chisel Stihl chain without problems on a 24" bar on that saw. Husky says it will take a 28", but Id bet youd want a skip chain for that.
The 362 would be Stihls equivalent, but Id spend the extra to get the Mtronic, which is their version of Huskys Autotune. That Autotune saves me a lot of time tuning with changing weather and fuel.
I have no issue with Stihl other than their handle is a different angle than Huskys, and maybe because Ive used Husky saws for so long, it just seems uncomfortable to me, but I would get a pro level saw for the extra features, although a properly cared for Stihl of any flavor should last you a very long time.

Another vote for a MS 362, great saws perfect for non pros like us that tend to use them like a pro would but not every day. I have a MS260 and a MS 362. If your just limbing a lot or have small trees it’s hard to beat a 260. The lighter weight is definitely noticeable over multiple hours of use. If you have larger logs and a bunch of them you will wish you had the bigger saw to reduce the time it take to buck. MS 460s are great saws but unless your working huge piles of big logs all day they are probably more than occasional users need and the added weight comes at a cost.

Used saws around me have certainly attained near-new-cost levels. I've managed to find many good deals, but generally at least half the saws I bought, even when they seemed pretty good upon inspection and ran well ended up needing major work (splitting for main bearings, piston replacement and cylinder cleanup etc., or just a bunch of smaller parts like fuel/impulse lines, carb kits, fuel vents, oil pickup grommets and lines, throttle cables and linkages, etc. I've only purchased 2 new saw in my life, but if you aren't looking for a project I'd probably just play it safe and buy new.

My preference for a 24" bar is my 385xp/390xp, my 046, or one of my 372s. My 562xp will run a 24 in certain situations, but I'm most often cutting denser wood. The 562 took care of a dozen 30-40" white pines with a 24" bar just fine, but if I'm cutting 24" ancient hard maple or hickory into firewood rounds all day it's the 390 or even the 395.

I like the 572 and 462, both run a 24 nicely. 362 and 562 will do alright as well, but if you'd like a great deal look at echo. The 590 is no powerhouse, but it's tough and cheap, and the 7310p is a nice 70cc saw that won't set you back as much as the 572 or 462 and will run a 24 well.

I have a Stihl MS260 that I bought about 20 yrs ago and love that one. I've cut about 25 16' trailers full of wood in it's lifetime and never had to have it serviced. Don't think I've even changed the spark plug, only the air filter. I NEVER let it run out of bar chain oil. It's a commercial entry one but has the horsepower to cut and run it with a 16" bar. I cut mesquite and oak. Do yourself a favor and do your research and spend the most $ you can comfortably afford. I'm glad I splurged a bit more back then because it has paid off. The salesman told me sadly I'd be the last chainsaw I ever bought and would outlive me. I think he was right...