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Yep plus a 1023
 

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Any opinions on the Curtis vs Tektite cabs? The Tektite seems to have more glass, which I prefer the look of. Any reliability issues?


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Any opinions on the Curtis vs Tektite cabs? The Tektite seems to have more glass, which I prefer the look of. Any reliability issues?


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Funny you mention that...... Just viewed a hard sided Tektite in Grand Falls a few days ago. It was a hard sided..... It was mounted on an Orange unit. "If" your a budget minded person, I would stick with a Curtis unit. The Tektite is a well built, sturdy one. Great looking heater in the cab. Lots of glass, Wing window to the rear of the driver to open and close for ventilation rather than the door glass up and down etc. Not sure If I liked it or not. Rear glass as far as I observed didn't remove for a back hoe application (could be wrong), which means the whole cab must come off for that implement.
 

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Funny you mention that...... Just viewed a hard sided Tektite in Grand Falls a few days ago. It was a hard sided..... It was mounted on an Orange unit. "If" your a budget minded person, I would stick with a Curtis unit. The Tektite is a well built, sturdy one. Great looking heater in the cab. Lots of glass, Wing window to the rear of the driver to open and close for ventilation rather than the door glass up and down etc. Not sure If I liked it or not. Rear glass as far as I observed didn't remove for a back hoe application (could be wrong), which means the whole cab must come off for that implement.
Tektite has a separate model backhoe cab.
 

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Thanks for that.

Even in just pictures, the Tektite does look nicer.

I tend to go for quality especially when it looks are a factor. I want to avoid having regrets and second guesses later.

Darn, this is going to be a tough call. I would prefer to support the local company.



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Funny you mention that...... Just viewed a hard sided Tektite in Grand Falls a few days ago. It was a hard sided..... It was mounted on an Orange unit. "If" your a budget minded person, I would stick with a Curtis unit. The Tektite is a well built, sturdy one. Great looking heater in the cab. Lots of glass, Wing window to the rear of the driver to open and close for ventilation rather than the door glass up and down etc. Not sure If I liked it or not. Rear glass as far as I observed didn't remove for a back hoe application (could be wrong), which means the whole cab must come off for that implement.
The Tektite is very well built, bolted directly to the frame, and I have not noticed any play anywhere since installation. For summertime operation the doors come off in a minute and the back glass pops out with three screws.

IMG_2027.jpg

For Winter operation it has a great heater and fan inside the cab (yes my tractor needs a bath) which is wired directly into the overhead console.

IMG_2144.jpg

The unit is extremely solid bolting directly to the frame. There are also lower panes of glass below the front window giving you a direct view of the front tires which I find very useful.

IMG_2141.jpg

View of door opening and close-up of door latch. Note the perimeter frame around the door and the solid construction of the latch.

IMG_2143.jpg
IMG_2146.jpg

And finally the back opening for backhoe operation with the glass removed.

IMG_2145.jpg
 

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The Tektite is very well built, bolted directly to the frame, and I have not noticed any play anywhere since installation. For summertime operation the doors come off in a minute and the back glass pops out with three screws.



For Winter operation it has a great heater and fan inside the cab (yes my tractor needs a bath) which is wired directly into the overhead console.



The unit is extremely solid bolting directly to the frame. There are also lower panes of glass below the front window giving you a direct view of the front tires which I find very useful.



View of door opening and close-up of door latch. Note the perimeter frame around the door and the solid construction of the latch.




And finally the back opening for backhoe operation with the glass removed.
Do the fender mounted lights on the 1025R have to be moved with the Tektite cab? I notice with the Curtis Cab, they move the fender lights to the outside of the cab which puts the lights sort of on the outside of the fender.
 
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Do the fender mounted lights on the 1025R have to be moved with the Tektite cab? I notice with the Curtis Cab, they move the fender lights to the outside of the cab which puts the lights sort of on the outside of the fender.
You can keep them on, I still have mine. You can see one of the side lights in the fourth picture (the one with the door open). I point them out the door, through the glass, towards the ground as side lights. I have an LED mounted up high on each side of the cab, this gives me good forward light and the fender mounted lights give me a pool of light to each side. I still have to add some more lighting to the back.
 

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I had a Tektite Backhoe cab installed last winter. It was a joy to plow snow in the warmth from the heater.

For the summer, I removed doors and rear window in about 5 minutes. The cab served as a sunshade and the defroster fan kept me cool when needed, especially when operating the backhoe.

The fit and finish are first-rate and visibility is more than enough with all the glass.

The Curtis cabs I've seen are a step down in quality from what I have seen but they probably do the job intended. If appearance and quality build are important to you, the Tektite is the clear choice.

It was expensive, to be sure, but I have no regrets whatever and would do it again.
 

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I had a Tektite Backhoe cab installed last winter. It was a joy to plow snow in the warmth from the heater.

For the summer, I removed doors and rear window in about 5 minutes. The cab served as a sunshade and the defroster fan kept me cool when needed, especially when operating the backhoe.

The fit and finish are first-rate and visibility is more than enough with all the glass.

The Curtis cabs I've seen are a step down in quality from what I have seen but they probably do the job intended. If appearance and quality build are important to you, the Tektite is the clear choice.

It was expensive, to be sure, but I have no regrets whatever and would do it again.
The Tektite are both about 5k base with the Tektite being in CAD. USD is trading at about $1.30 CAD... 30% off!

Did you install it or have a dealer do it? There's a video on YouTube of self install. Didn't look all too bad, but definitely a whole weekend of work.


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I had my dealer install my Tektite cab. I convinced him to become a Tektite dealer and I would be his first customer. I reasoned that a dealer installed job would be easier to handle if adjustments were needed dan the road.

My JD/Tektite dealer charged me for 8 hours shop time. The cab arrived from Manitoba, Canada with a shattered door glass which the dealer took care of in 2 days time. I don't know if he would have taken care of the shipping damage if he were not now a Tektite dealer.

I have not seen the install video but the job is pretty straight forward for anyone with some wrenching and basic electric wire skills. The cab is , however, quite heavy due to its strong build and I think a hoist of some kind would be required. If I had the time and workspace I wouldn't hesitate doing the install.

One thing I know if you get a Tektite: The first time you climb in and hear and feel the solid sound of the door closing and sealing you will be glad you spent a bit more for the Tektite. The first time you attack a snowstorm from the warmth of the cab you might be giggling like a fool as I was!
 

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Curtis Delux Backhoe Cab

My Curtis Cab with the rear removable panel for backhoe use was acquired through my Delaware dealer last March. I paid $4,600.00 (no tax) including heater, forward facing roof mounted LED lights and door mirrors. It arrived at the dealer in a 7' x 7', 2 ft thick box. The installation was almost a single man job until I got to the doors. The hinge pins are the same length so they both have to be lined up in mid air at the same time, but the doors are very heavy and big and the hinge pin holes are tiny. To easily rotate the seat for backhoe operation, I had to remove one arm rest. The Curtis is beefy and bolts up to the ROPS. You'll need a small drift to line up holes here and there. The rear panel has convenient handles and releases that make it's removal and re-installation painless. The front windshield swings out enough to ventilate the cab when both door windows on each side are opened. Then you can always remove the rear, but I haven't found it necessary unless I 'm using the hoe. With the 1025R FILB you will have to block off the radiator and install a higher temp thermostat to get acceptable heat. After doing so, your 1025 diesel will sing. Some disadvantages: Access to the fuse panel will require cab removal. The openings through the floor at the pedals and behind & beside the seat are sealed with velcroed rubberized fabric or vinylized fabric that is so chintzy that you will be inspired to purchase a 2 ft. x 4 ft. sheet of 1/8" rubber and make floor pans using contact cement and the provided sealing material as a form. If you have the Artillian Diverter valve installed, you will have a tight, but ultimately nice installation after some head scratching and elbow rotation. I punched a 1" hole through the firewall for the Teleflex snowblower chute control. The firewall is heavy gauge. I cut white rubber washers and used large green painted fender washers on the inside and outside and leave the Teleflex permanently installed by just routing it through the brass guide rings on the frame and ty-wrapping it until the 54" blower gets installed. The heater comments above do not mention the needed thermostat or the very cool temps normally showing on the gauge, but I can't see how the Tektite heater can be any different than the Curtis. My radiator is now completely blocked except for the top two inches and I'm running in the middle of the green on the gauge during 90 degree stump digging and grinding operations.

Hope this helps.

Ken R.
 

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My Curtis Cab

<SNIP>

My radiator is now completely blocked except for the top two inches and I'm running in the middle of the green on the gauge during 90 degree stump digging and grinding operations.

Hope this helps.

Ken R.
Are you saying you have to run with the radiator blocked even when it is warm out?
 
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The installation was almost a single man job until I got to the doors. The hinge pins are the same length so they both have to be lined up in mid air at the same time, but the doors are very heavy and big and the hinge pin holes are tiny.

Ken R.
I cut about 1/2" off the top hinge pins, much easier to put the doors on now.
 
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Yep, I leave the panel blocking the radiator on even in the summer. I have a higher temp thermostat also, and the dash gauge never gets past 1/2 green.

Ken R
I do not have to do that. I run within nominal operating temperatures without blocking the radiator at all.
The Curtis cab heater is 20k BTU, the Tektite heater is 15K BTU, that 5K BTU difference could be all that matters. At 20K BTU they are either compensating for a lot of thermal loss or it could be a 'bigger is better' thing. I always thought the 15K BTU would be a bit much but who knows.
 
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