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Discussion Starter #1
Really not sure where to put this, so I'll put it here. Mods, move it if you feel it needs to be.

I'm almost sure that this is a 50 amp breaker on the 220, but I'm not 100%. I'll post a couple pictures to see if you can tell. I want to make sure I don't have to change it out for a new welder. Not a big deal if I do, just don't want to if I don't have to.

Thanks
 

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Martian, that is a 20 amp double pole 220v breaker. You'll have to upgrade the wiring in addition to the outlet for a 50a welder plug.


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Like DS said, that is a 20amp breaker. The numbers on the lever part you flip is the amperage of the breaker. You have a 15 amp 120 breaker on one side of it and and a 30 amp 120 breaker on the other.

If it was done correctly you will need to replace wiring as DS said. But I would pull the cover and check what wire gauge you have before doing anything.

I would assume it not piped with conduit so replacing your wiring is going to be a lot of work. You might be better off adding a receptacle near the panel if that is possible or location is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, this is what I figured. My barn has no drywall or insulation, so it should be fairly easy to rewire. It's all open, unless I'm totally off the mark on what your saying.

I just checked the Miller specifications again, and it says
Miller said:
230 V, 25 A, 60 Hz, 1-Phase
120 V, 20 A, 60 Hz, 1-Phase
That to me sounds like I only need a 25 amp breaker. That right? Of course I'd still need to put a 25 amp breaker in, but am I reading this wrong?
 

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The breaker is to protect the size of the wire and not allow it to get too hot from drawing to much current. So it depends on the length of the run, what size wire you install to get to a breaker size. Personally, if it were a short run, (less than 50 foot) I would run 8 guage with a 50a breaker and future proof yourself. The cost difference wouldn't be dramatic. You could get away with 10 guage with a 25a breaker for a fairly short run.


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Thanks, this is what I figured. My barn has no drywall or insulation, so it should be fairly easy to rewire. It's all open, unless I'm totally off the mark on what your saying.

I just checked the Miller specifications again, and it says


That to me sounds like I only need a 25 amp breaker. That right? Of course I'd still need to put a 25 amp breaker in, but am I reading this wrong?
OK on drywall. You will jump to a 30 amp breaker. Your wire needs to be able to handle at least 30 amps to match the breaker. Since your wire is exposed, check the print on the side of wiring. Look for something like 10/3, 12/3, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm about ~17' from the box. I'll post a picture of the wire as well. But it says:
Type NM-B 12-2 WITH GROUND 600 VOLTS CIRTEX-1 (UL) 6/02/03 J2/1 KP/ BF 1000
What would you recommend?

Thanks again
 

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You can de-rate the wire on a dedicated welder circuit, that 12/2 could pass code with a 50 amp breaker. It is becasue of the welders duty cycle that allows this.

However, I would not do it, and I agree with the #8 suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. I guess I'll be making a trip to the Home Depot!
 

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I don't know how far or how much wire you need, but I get sticker shock every time I look at it, copper is really expensive. My land lord who is a electrician (he owns Bruton Electric for anyone in the Jackson MI area) told me to us #4 aluminum when I run 220 out to my shed for my welder, he said it save some $$$.
Just a thought, good luck.:drinks:
 

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Get the 8 gauge 3 conductor plus ground (8/3), the Nema 6-50R outlet, and the 50a breaker. You should have around roughly $50 into that. If you get the 3 conductor (two hots plus neutral) you won't use the neutral conductor for the welder, but if you ever needed to change the outlet back to an RV plug, the wire will already be in the box. Much easier to do it the first time.:hi: If you go this route, just be sure to land the neutral in the panel and cap it in the box.:drinks:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not too far at all. I did purchase the welder, so now I've got to get ready for it. Probably won't have a chance till next weekend, but I'll go based upon your recommendations.

I will look for the 8/3, but the 8/2 (assuming just no neutral) would do as well. I wouldn't think the price would vary to much, but just in case, it will work, correct?
 

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8/2 will be fine for just your welder outlet. 8/3 will leave you with the oppurtunity to change the outlet to different style if needed.


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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
8/2 will be fine for just your welder outlet. 8/3 will leave you with the oppurtunity to change the outlet to different style if needed.


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Thanks, I will definitely look for the 8/3, but I just wanted a fall back.
 

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Sounds like you about have this project wrapped up Martian:thumbup1gif: I look forward to hearing about the new welder and future projects.:drinks:
 

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1335145553.710926.jpg

Here's the welding outlet wiring I recently added to my shop. I used 8/3 landed the neutral and had it capped off in the outlet box.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1335145699.620814.jpg

Remember the ground is not counted but is included when you get the wire. For example 8/3 means 8 gauge, 3 conductors plus ground.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1335145896.438918.jpg


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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks has. I'm pretty excited about it. Certainly a lot more machine than I though I was going to get!

Nice looking job there DS! It's pretty much a straight shot right down the wall. The only screwy part is I'll have to clean under my work bench where I have piled stuff the last 10 years - needs a good cleaning anyway. Mind me asking about how much per foot it was? Just trying to guesstimate my cost.
 

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I think I saw $1.50/ft at a box store? Could have been as high as $2/ft. It was a while ago. If you go to an electric supply house, everything is much cheaper. IIRC I bought 8/3 there at about $1/ft. I'd be surprised if you had more than $50-75 for wire, breaker, and outlet.


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