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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I've talked about it a bit in the GM thread. Time to start a thread for my shop. I'll start off with saying I about half know what I'm doing. Remember that, it will be important later.:mocking: I've remodeled a couple of basements and helped a neighbor build an evavated deck around his pool. It's not like I don't have any experience.

I'm planning a post frame building 50x99, on 9 foot centers. The cold storage area will be 27 foot. It will have 4 overhead doors, 2 man doors and 4 windows, infloor heat, make up units and A/C. I'm looking for a couple mini-splits that will work. My 2 boys and I will do most of the work from setting the posts to plumbing and electrical. I'm well connected in my community, so plenty of friends to help, including plumbers and electricians, builders and masons. Most will help for beer and food. If we get the building erected in time I'll pour the 6 inch floor before winter or I'll wait until Spring.

We got our building permit to start. I hired a local company to level the ground and create the pad. That's done, they said 2 weeks, finished in 3 days. I can't wait for that bill. At the low point it needed 5'2" of fill. 10 yards from there it was at 3' to almost nothing at the other end. As we talked and looked at the blueprint he decided he should bring it out farther to make the approaches for the overhead doors.

On Aug 9 I ordered the materials for the shop. They should be here in 10-14 days. Today I plan to take down a little more fence and set the batter boards and find the 4 corners. It might be a bit of a challenge as there is nothing to measure off of to set a line. I bought a Johnson self leveling laser transit to help. I make have to set it to vertical to make a line.

Here's a few pics of the process:



The area for the shop is just beyond the tractor.



Removed the fence posts.

'
Cleared and ready to strip top soil.


I striped some of the top soil myself with what we had to use.
The boys piled some dirt to use to fill a few holes.


Tommy did it faster with the tracked skid steer. He had all the dirt cleared in about 3 hurs on a Sunday afternoon.


Finished pad


Here's the south side where he added the 5' of fill. We'll finish the slop there with black dirt in the end.
 

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Heating the floor, that's good, how thick of concrete? I have had 2 shops built for myself with in floor heat. One with 6" other with 4".
It makes a big difference in heating. Boiler died in building with 6" floor in 10-20 degree weather. After a week it was still above 45 degrees.
More mass thats heated the longer it stays warm when doors are opened, power goes out, system fails.
How much insulation?, what kind?
Planning to keep the whole building heated/cooled?
Taking advantage of southern exposure for windows/doors?

Big space to heat and cool.
lots of heat loss on overhead doors.
My .02, spend some coin on insulation and air sealing, it will pay you back for as long as you own the place.
Spending money on higher end finishes has zero payback.

Good start, hope the 5' of base material was packed in lifts so it doesn't settle too bad.
 

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MDrew, 50 X 99 ain't no way a shed, that's a dang palace in my book. :good2: :laugh:
 

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Pole barn huh? Thats nice.

Now, am I seeing correctly?
You have a Struck and a Deuce and a half? Darn you.
I plan to make a Deuce my next pickup truck...lol.


Seriously though, the rest looks great.
Ive got no recommendations on the splits. I know nothing about that stuff.
As to the build, youll be fine. An old boss of mine, who was somewhat mechanically inclined, but had no prior building experience, built his own building. Looks great. Im sure you can do it even better, or at least faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Struck has a great little backhoe. The front bucket only lifts 300lbs. It has about 100 hrs and it seems to be vibrating apart.

Got a late start this afternoon. Got the drain tile all buried. Made the batter boards. I was going to put them in place, but couldn't find anything straight to measure off of.:banghead: The barn is off by 6 inches in 20 feet, the road by almost a foot in 40 feet. It was getting dark, tomorrow I'll make a right angle from a post so we have something to measure from.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Pythagorean Theorem, I used to measure roads and the surrounding area to create drawings. Planning on 60, 80, 100 to get my line. The post is the closest nonmoveable object.

My buddy still thinks I'm nuts. He told me that as he was taking screws out of the giant deck we built around his pool. He's taking it down because he got rid of the pool. He's throwing out the deck boards and salvaging the rest. It took almost a month to build with a number of people helping. He's taking it apart by himself, 1 screw at a time, and I'm crazy.:lol:
 

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Crazy and/or smart

Pythagorean Theorem, I used to measure roads and the surrounding area to create drawings. Planning on 60, 80, 100 to get my line. The post is the closest nonmoveable object.

My buddy still thinks I'm nuts. He told me that as he was taking screws out of the giant deck we built around his pool. He's taking it down because he got rid of the pool. He's throwing out the deck boards and salvaging the rest. It took almost a month to build with a number of people helping. He's taking it apart by himself, 1 screw at a time, and I'm crazy.:lol:
If you've got the time and inclination, you can certainly build that building. My dad built a 70 x 30 shed but the kicker was there were handbuilt 70' beams and the front beam was about 16' in the air to allow room to get a combine to set a header under the shed.

Depending on the height, it can be a challenge to set long poles and get them in line and vertical. It's not a problem with a crane or excavator to lift them but we didn't have either of those so it was lift as high as possible with the FEL on a too small tractor and then a combination of pole props under and rope pulling and don't forget to put a slide board in the hole so the butt end doesn't jam. If I ever build another pole shed, I might use concrete in the hole topped with one of the metal fixtures to join the pole to the concrete. Pour the concrete, align the fixture exactly. When it's hard, set the pole/post with one bolt and tilt it up and attach remaining bolts.

There's nothing technically challenging about a pole building but it is physically challenging, especially if you are building over 15' or so. Scaffolding or a lift would be much better than ladders but you'll end up needing both.

Have fun with it and remember it's not the fall that hurts, it's the sudden stop at the end.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Metal and poles are coming on the 31st. So much for 10-14 days like they said.
Not feeling too smart after last night. To make the porch meet the existing concrete I needed to move the building South by about 2 feet. No problem. When you place the batter boards that needs to be considered before pounding stakes into the heavily compacted ground, you moron. One should also consider that you originally measured out 100 feet and not 99 like the building is actually going to be.:banghead::banghead:
At least I got some practice and it will go faster tonight if it doesn't rain.:mocking:
 

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I saw an ad in the menards leaflet for a building like this one. Did you go with the Menards building package?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I laid out my own and ordered it.
 

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It's just boards, not a building

Metal and poles are coming on the 31st. So much for 10-14 days like they said.
Not feeling too smart after last night. To make the porch meet the existing concrete I needed to move the building South by about 2 feet. No problem. When you place the batter boards that needs to be considered before pounding stakes into the heavily compacted ground, you moron. One should also consider that you originally measured out 100 feet and not 99 like the building is actually going to be.:banghead::banghead:
At least I got some practice and it will go faster tonight if it doesn't rain.:mocking:
At least it's just the batter boards rather than the start of the building. If that's the only mistake, you're golden.

Treefarmer
 

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McDrew--nice building :good2::good2:now don't make the same mistake i made back in 03 with the heat in the floor. use the blueboard for underneath the lines for ur hot water. i got talked into the bubble wrap instead of blue board. back then my HDWE seemed not to have them little towers that held the pipe up in the air off of the cement fence( i don't know or remember the correct word for that:banghead:) in the end my tubing is too low in the concrete --to heat good say at 72*-crank it up to 76* and i can melt snow 3 ft away from the edge of foundation outside in winter. no one ever thought to put a barrier break between foundation wall and floor.
spme day going to install the old style iron heaters -and cut the in floor pipes. good luck with it--i wanted that in floor heat in the worst way-as it felt really good to me -and my arthritis back then in all the basements i visited.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Rain finally stopped. We moved 3 of the batter boards and got the strings squared up. Good to go to start laying out where the posts go.

Hope I measure that correctly.:lol:

Something tells me the batter boards won't be the only mistake.:hide:
 
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