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I am considering putting up steel liner on my garage ceiling instead of sheetrock. I am hoping someone can provide some insight

How does steel ceiling with sheetrock walls look? I can't find good pictures online.

Should the metal ceiling be installed before the wall sheetrock?

How do I close off the ends of the metal panels where it will meet the wall (corrugated metal surface vs smooth drywall surface)?

There are two big reasons for considering metal.
One, I will probably be doing this work myself, and I am not looking forward to hanging 5/8" sheetrock alone. Is the metal going to be as big of a pain?
Two, I need to get the attic insulated before winter, and I will not be able to start this work for a couple months. I am planning on using blown insulation, so the ceiling needs to be in-place. Could I use kraft faced batt insulation instead, and install it so the paper is seen when you are standing in the garage looking up? This would allow me to take my time on installing the ceiling finishes.
 

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Good morning, I'm no expert on this but I just had pole barn built. The builders use J Channel on the ends of the metal panels to give a clean finish look. See links below. The R&R Building guy has couple of videos on it link below. His videos are pretty good, plus he's got the best of everything when it comes to tools.


https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/steel-siding/10-residential-steel-siding-j-channel/white1550306-01/p-1444448461086.htm



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gf4w_R-M3rM
 

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I am considering putting up steel liner on my garage ceiling instead of sheetrock. I am hoping someone can provide some insight

How does steel ceiling with sheetrock walls look? I can't find good pictures online.

Should the metal ceiling be installed before the wall sheetrock?

How do I close off the ends of the metal panels where it will meet the wall (corrugated metal surface vs smooth drywall surface)?

There are two big reasons for considering metal.
One, I will probably be doing this work myself, and I am not looking forward to hanging 5/8" sheetrock alone. Is the metal going to be as big of a pain?
Two, I need to get the attic insulated before winter, and I will not be able to start this work for a couple months. I am planning on using blown insulation, so the ceiling needs to be in-place. Could I use kraft faced batt insulation instead, and install it so the paper is seen when you are standing in the garage looking up? This would allow me to take my time on installing the ceiling finishes.
Because you use j channel for the edge of the ceiling and it gives a 'finished' appearance, i would put up the wall drywall first.

You should put the insulationpaper side toward the heated space. If that is the garage then yes the paper side can be stapled to the ceiling joists prior to covering the ceiling.

If you have a drywall lift the ceiling sheetrock isn't that bad to do and will probably be much cheaper than the metal. HF has them cheap and you can resell it when you are done the project. I picked one up years ago but never got around to reselling it. It has been borrowed a few times which got me some rita's water ice and wawa coupons! :good2: i used it myself last weekend at a neighbors.
 

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you will love the metal ceiling,

maintenance free
good light reflection
quick
easy to remove for access
only drawback is it reflects sound more than sheet rock

MUST put up sheet rock first obviously higher than ceiling level

you can terminate it with J trim as mentioned but sometimes it can be hard to get in the J trim on both ends if your installing the ceiling panels as one piece ....you can also use a sheet metal angle

yes you can pre-install insulation batts in the spaces above with metal just like you could with sheet rock

biggest issue with a one man install will be physically holding the panels up and getting some screws in if your putting in long panels ...weight isnt the problem ....its the sagging ...full lenght panels look much better than end lapped panels
 

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Is this garage attached to the house or detached garage?
 

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If the garage is attached to the house or this is living quarters above, you'll need a firewall between them. This is why I utilized 5/8 drywall (must be also be rated as firewall). I taped and painted mine before anything got in the way. I have 8' HO fluorescent fixtures and all my wiring is conduit. Also, my air lines are also galvanized pipe and sloped for drainage. A drywall ceiling and walls made their installation easier. It is easier to repair when something gets rammed into it.

Pre-finished corrugated steel is easier to clean. With a little care, you can take a pressure washer to it. If you have a good coat of paint on drywall, you can spray it down with the garden hose, then utilize car wash brushes on appropriate length handles and rinse with the garden hose. With both of these methods, it is assumed you have the garage emptied out. Easier said than done. So the last time I did mine, I did it off scaffolding, on casters, with a bucket and brush and dried it with old towels cut in half. It was easier/quicker than trying to move every thing and it was winter. Way less collateral mess.

You definitely do not want unfinished drywall. You can only dry clean that with a broom/brush and it just gets dirtier in time. You want a finished white ceiling that reflects the light well and that you can clean so it will continue to reflect light well. I hate working in a dungeon.

Blow in fiberglass insulation will be far superior to kraft faced rolls. You really never want to cut corners on insulating, but even more so with ceilings as heat rises. It is not just cost, but heat loss into an antic will often create frost which, in turn, create mold and/or mildew when it melts. Not to mention you want an excellent thermal barrier between you and that summer time attic temperatures.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The garage is not attached; no fire separation needed.

After watching some youtube video, and reading here and elsewhere, I am going to stick to my original plan and use sheetrock. And then I can spend the winter mudding, taping and painting! Thanks
 

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For walls I prefer OSB or plywood. You can then put a nail anywhere to hold things... just my $0.02

Dad did ply walls (light blue, mom wanted color) and corrugated ceiling (white). No echo issue, great light reflection.
 

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And then I can spend the winter mudding, taping and painting! Thanks
When I finished my basement, I knew it would take me weeks to do the mudding and taping, as I'm too much of a perfectionist with some things and I would stress over the smallest of details.

They were building a house a few blocks away from here that I would pass on my way to work each day. On the day that I finally saw the sheetrock crew in there, I stopped in. I explained what I needed done and they came in with a surprisingly lower price then I had expected. (it was in the neighborhood of $350 as long as I supplied the materials)
On the first day 4 guys showed up and taped and mudded the entire basement (mind you, the basement was broken up to include 2 bedrooms, a living room and a bathroom) They were there for about 4 hours.

On the 2nd day, 2 guys came in, did the sanding and put up the 2nd coat. This took them roughly 4 hours as well.
3rd day, 2 guys showed up to do additional sanding and apply whatever thin coats they needed.....took them maybe 2 hours. On the 4th and final day, only 1 guy came, fixed any spots that they missed, sanded, and poof, it was done.

Anyone can do mudding and taping but, those pro's knew what they were doing, how many people they needed and banged it out like it was nobody's business.

Here it is 13 years later and I wouldnt hesitate to go find a crew to bang it out for twice that price.....it was well worth it to get it over and done with, and it was done right.
 

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When I finished my basement, I knew it would take me MONTHS to do the mudding and taping, as I can't do mudding and taping.


Anyone can do mudding and taping (no we can't) but, those pro's knew what they were doing, how many people they needed and banged it out like it was nobody's business.

Here it is 13 years later and I wouldnt hesitate to go find a crew to bang it out for twice that price.....it was well worth it to get it over and done with, and it was done right.
Hanging the drywall is easy.

A good mud and tape guy can make all the difference.

For what they charge, I don't mind not learning how.
 
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