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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have been using my 4610 for 17 yrs to cut and haul firewood. I have always wanted to design/build a chain saw holder to bolt onto the right loader arm, and I finally got around to it this week. I used scrap steel I had on hand. Everything is TIG welded.

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The loader arm had two pre-drilled holes, one near the top, and one near the bottom that I was able to use 1/2" bolts through to attach the holder. I cut the head off the top bolt and welded it in flush so the chain saw wouldn't hang up on it when inserting into the holder. I have Stihl and Husqvarna chain saws, and the holder works with all 3 saws.

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I like the genuine John Deere spray cans, but on a day like today where I was spraying outside with the temperature at 55 F, this Krylon paint is pretty amazing. The color match is good, and it goes on smooth with a good gloss, and dries to the touch (not tacky) in a couple of hours.
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Nicely done.
 
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That is really clean looking. I wish I knew how to weld.
I was saying that this time last year - It's never to late to learn and while (I think) TIG is a dark magic, MIG is very easy to learn and very handy!

OP: Great looking chainsaw holder and very nice welds!
 

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Very nicely done. Looks great! I've used that JD green KRYLON paint many times. It works great.
 
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Nicest setup I have saw. Great idea. Don’t know if it needs it or not but could you add a sacrificial 1/2 inch wood block at the top for your chainsaw dogs to bite into? Don’t know if the saw sits low enough to scrape them on the flat metal or not. Either way. Great idea. I like it better than anything available. Especially the flat bolt head on top.
 

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That looks amazing, very nicely done! I was just thinking the other day I’d like to figure out a way to hang a chainsaw on the tractor…. This level of fab is beyond my skill level though 😜
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nicest setup I have saw. Great idea. Don’t know if it needs it or not but could you add a sacrificial 1/2 inch wood block at the top for your chainsaw dogs to bite into? Don’t know if the saw sits low enough to scrape them on the flat metal or not. Either way. Great idea. I like it better than anything available. Especially the flat bolt head on top.
Alex,

Thanks!

Yes, that is a good idea and something I plan to address. I have some used conveyor belt, and I am going to cut and attach a piece to the flat "shelf". I also need to remove it and try to remove those ugly 17 yr old safety stickers on the loader arm that stick out in places behind the chain saw holder!

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That is really clean looking. I wish I knew how to weld.
I was saying that this time last year - It's never to late to learn and while (I think) TIG is a dark magic, MIG is very easy to learn and very handy!
I agree that it is never too late to learn to weld. Using a welder to make things is something you can enjoy for the rest of your life! Since this is a Metalworking and Fabrication forum - let's talk about getting you started!

When I was just a young kid on the farm I started using my Dad's old, crude AC only arc welder to make things out of metal - and I was hooked! I don't recall my Dad ever showing me how to use his welder. I just watched what he did and started using it and his cutting torch and grinder when he wasn't around. Yes, I was terrible when I started, but I still accomplished things I was proud of, and I got better. Today, it is much easier to get instruction to learn to weld with so many good videos available.

I have stick (arc), MIG, and AC/DC TIG capabilities in shop machines up to 225 amp, including a liquid cooled TIG torch. I use them all as needed, but 95% of the time, I am using TIG (with a self-darkening helmet). I just build a lot more small projects and repairs that need the finesse and control you can only achieve with a TIG torch operated with a foot pedal (heat control).

I have a portable, engine driven Miller Bobcat 250 (stick welder) with 10Kw generator that I use for fencing work and anything else that needs to be welded outside. I sometimes use it in the shop just because it is such a good arc welder and I like to hear it run!

A lot of people choose MIG as their first welder these days, and it is a good choice, but when one of my friends ask what they should buy to learn to weld, I always recommend a machine that does AC/DC TIG and stick (arc). Almost all TIG machines will support stick (arc) welding. There is nothing you can't weld (well) with TIG and stick, and these welders are now quite compact and much more affordable than they used to be. You really don't need AC TIG unless you plan to weld aluminum, so you can save money on the welder by just buying a DC unit, but TIG AC is a nice option to have. You definitely don't need AC stick (arc).

Let us know if you have questions about a welding machine that you are thinking about buying.
 

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Super clean execution and design.
I'm not sure if I want a loader mount position just yet. I've been noodling over a rops mount but have not gotten serious about designing it yet. I admire Ken's design but I'm wondering if I could produce something better for me on my tiny tractor, plus cheaper...
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don’t know if it needs it or not but could you add a sacrificial 1/2 inch wood block at the top for your chainsaw dogs to bite into? Don’t know if the saw sits low enough to scrape them on the flat metal or not.
I traced a cardboard template, then used a utility knife to rough cut a cushioning pad out of 1/4" thick conveyor belt. After that, I was able to quickly shape and smooth the edges smooth on the belt grinder.
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I drilled two 3/16" holes and used a couple of aircraft bolts I had on hand to attach. The next time I am at the hardware store, I will pick up a couple of black oxide button head #10-32 screws to replace these.
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I traced a cardboard template, then used a utility knife to rough cut a cushioning pad out of 1/4" thick conveyor belt. After that, I was able to quickly shape and smooth the edges smooth on the belt grinder.
View attachment 813877

I drilled two 3/16" holes and used a couple of aircraft bolts I had on hand to attach. The next time I am at the hardware store, I will pick up a couple of black oxide button head #10-32 screws to replace these.
View attachment 813878
Nice.
 

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Alex,

Thanks!

Yes, that is a good idea and something I plan to address. I have some used conveyor belt, and I am going to cut and attach a piece to the flat "shelf". I also need to remove it and try to remove those ugly 17 yr old safety stickers on the loader arm that stick out in places behind the chain saw holder!

View attachment 813852
Cheap plastic cutting boards from Walmart or Costco or someplace like that are good sources of material to make spacers, cushions or what not. Cheap, durable, easy to cut and work with material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Super clean execution and design.
I'm not sure if I want a loader mount position just yet. I've been noodling over a rops mount but have not gotten serious about designing it yet. I admire Ken's design but I'm wondering if I could produce something better for me on my tiny tractor, plus cheaper...
Thanks!

I also considered a ROPS mount, but being able to comfortably stand on the ground next to the machine and easily insert/remove the chain saw was a big plus to me.

My original design had the top of the holder level with the top of the loader arm to support much longer chain saw bars than I use. After prototyping that position, I decided it was much too difficult to insert/remove the chain saw (while standing on the ground), so I dropped it 8 inches and I really like using it where it is now. It also blocks the view less with the saw lower in the mount.
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