[Marlin]

Never built chairs before . . . thought I'd build these for a FarmHouse Table I built some time ago.

They're 'rustic' and a little larger than I was thinking. So I'll finish these two and look for a plan for several more to go with the table.

A couple more coats of Arm-R-Seal for the seats and White Satin for the chair bodies.

 

[Sodman]

Nice work. I've also always wanted to try chairs. Perhaps this summer I'll have time

 

[Mackford13]

Nice. Those are gonna look really great with the table you made. Love watching your projects unfold.

 

[MattL]

They look great!!!

So does that supermax drum sander - they are a complete game changer!

 

[driveshaft]

Marlin,

Richard, great looking table and chairs. Whom ever they go to should be proud to have them, nothing like home made

 

[gsuders86]

Really nice.

 

[ironpony]

Very nice, why not consider a bench style for one side ? or maybe a double seat.

 

[shoot4fun]

Beautiful work. That table is gorgeous. Chairs will be a great match.

 

[shoot4fun]

Very nice, why not consider a bench style for one side ? or maybe a double seat.

That'd be sweet!

 

[DRobinson]

Nice work, as usual, Marlin.

 

[Kbar]

Nice work, as usual, Marlin.

X2

 

[flyweight]

I like them.

 

[etcallhome]

Marlin,, as usual ,, the chairs look GREAT,, same for the table...

 

[dodgeman]

I like the different colored boards in the table. Some darker, some lighter and some boards have some of both.

 

[Marlin]

They look great!!!

So does that supermax drum sander - they are a complete game changer!

Agreed, the SuperMax is a significant addition to any shop. I'm still learning to use it . . . like changing sandpapers. On the SuperMax it is not very easy, I supposed until you learn the technique of it all. One mistake and you destroy an $8 - 10 sandpaper. And some woods will 'gum-it-up' quite quickly, so you need to watch that. (Paint thinner works great.)

Very nice, why not consider a bench style for one side ? or maybe a double seat.

I like that idea, a bench with the two chairs . . . now if I have enough wood that will match for a bench?

 

[MattL]

Agreed, the SuperMax is a significant addition to any shop. I'm still learning to use it . . . like changing sandpapers. On the SuperMax it is not very easy, I supposed until you learn the technique of it all. One mistake and you destroy an $8 - 10 sandpaper. And some woods will 'gum-it-up' quite quickly, so you need to watch that. (Paint thinner works great.)



I like that idea, a bench with the two chairs . . . now if I have enough wood that will match for a bench?

Yea its got a learning curve, but I'd be lost without mine. - I've found when working a new piece of wood with unknown thickness - I'll raise the drum over the wood and while.its slowly passing through lower it until it barely "kisses" the wood. then I'll raise it up a bit and run it through again to make sure I didn't hit a high spot that wasn't the "highest" spot. On the harder woods - use very light light cuts .005" max that I'll usually follow with "spring pass" (same height setting, just allowing the drum to fully settle/get any material removed that wasnt due to what little flex/deflection the sander has. ) Assuming it's the same leadscrew on yours versus mine (a 2016) about 1/8th a turn will be somewhere between .004-007" of movement.

For changing paper - I agree not that easy. If using the SM precut paper, I start on the non-suspended side and try to get as much of the exposed end in the holder. Then slowly wind the paper around the drum keeping it tight against the drum and not overlapping the paper. Then jam as much as possible in the other, spring clamp that should hold it tight.

 

[Marlin]

Yea its got a learning curve, but I'd be lost without mine. - I've found when working a new piece of wood with unknown thickness - I'll raise the drum over the wood and while.its slowly passing through lower it until it barely "kisses" the wood. then I'll raise it up a bit and run it through again to make sure I didn't hit a high spot that wasn't the "highest" spot. On the harder woods - use very light light cuts .005" max that I'll usually follow with "spring pass" (same height setting, just allowing the drum to fully settle/get any material removed that wasnt due to what little flex/deflection the sander has. ) Assuming it's the same leadscrew on yours versus mine (a 2016) about 1/8th a turn will be somewhere between .004-007" of movement.

For changing paper - I agree not that easy. If using the SM precut paper, I start on the non-suspended side and try to get as much of the exposed end in the holder. Then slowly wind the paper around the drum keeping it tight against the drum and not overlapping the paper. Then jam as much as possible in the other, spring clamp that should hold it tight.

Thanks for the comments as it confirms what I've learned and do.

Have you run wide/long stock through it? The 19/38 is good and I'm suspecting I should have another person help with the management.

 

[MattL]

Thanks for the comments as it confirms what I've learned and do.

Have you run wide/long stock through it? The 19/38 is good and I'm suspecting I should have another person help with the management.

Long yes - about 10-12' no problems with long when properly supported. Wide, yes, about 35", however I wouldn't call the wide successful. I'm 98% confident it was because I had limited help (my not so strong bride and it was a heavy slab) and I didn't have proper support next to (open end) which I think caused the uneven ledge (it was only a few thousands .002-.003), but enough to not be perfect.

Most of the stuff I run now is short, so I don't have the infeed table on currently due to space, however plan to put it back on at some point in the near future, they do really help.

 

[Marlin]

Finished the two chairs. I'm thinking a bench would finish this set off.

 

[flyweight]

Sure came out nice.