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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A fine two hour project that took two days. I got the low profile oil pan with pump from Northern Tool (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200422329_200422329), got the 5 gallon pump so I could get the new fluid in (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200425429_200425429) and got 8.5 gallons of HyGuard, three oil filters and one air filter. I'm ready :cool:

After a pressure wash, the first step was to drain the oil. The main plug on the reservoir was easy to find. But I could not find the two plugs on the rear axles, one on each side. Looked at all the different bolts, and concluded that one of them was the drain plug. But the paint was not broken on any of them like it was on the mail reservoir plug. Now I had paid to have the hydro fluid changed twice- once at the Kubota dealer, and once at a local shop after a minor incident where I tipped the tractor over. Seems that neither place fully drained the tractor. I got about 3 quarts out of each of the axle drains. Not happy, but happy because this help justify getting the maintenance toys and doing it my self (doing it right).

After draining I get the filters off. One of them is not easy to get two, I had a filter wrench device that could get about 1/8 of a turn per positioning. I'm wondering how many times the Kubota engineers ever changed the hydro fluid on one of these tractors. Now it's time to get the reservoir wire mesh filter out. I look in the service manual, it shows that you disconnect a hose clamp and pull the tube off the filter. But the tube looks like it's metal, What the ???:dunno: The hose clamp is about .75" behind another hydraulic tube. So removing it with a 10 mm wrench is all by feel- you can't see a thing. I get it off, try to remove the tube, no luck, I'm convinced it metal. Then I get the idea to take a pair of vise grips and talk gingerly to it. Turns out it is a rubber tube, it's just got all the factory paint on it. So the Kubota dealer and service shop never cleaned the screen :gaah:.

I get the screen out, it only has a few very small bits of metal on it :thumbup1gif:. I clean it, the paper towel gets a grey color to it, that's OK. I go to put it back. There are two slots cut out of the screen holder, but only one O ring in the bottom slot. I fuss with it for a while, and sorta get it back in the hole but the O ring barely showing. I put the retaining clip on, screw it down, it bends a bit, not looking good, :banghead:. Fill it, have a slow leak.

So today I take it all apart today and fuss with it some more, and there is a magic point where the filter drops down into the tank. There must be some fitting or bump to align it. Only now, it's way down there. And I can't remember if the retaining piece of metal went in the empty top ring or on top of the whole assembly :slap-yourself-emoti. Of course I loose about 1.5 gallons of hydro fluid as all this goes on. End up putting the retaining piece of flat metal on the top of the assembly. I'm wondering if the original design called for 2 O rings and it was cost reduced to one? I went to the Kubota dealer today, exploded parts diagram shows just 1 O ring.

It's back together and not leaking. I'll order 2 O rings for it and next time I change the fluid put them both on. I'll have to watch it and see if it leaks. I posted a question on all this to TBN, just got one reply of "Musta crunched the O ring." Maybee I should have titled the post "Do missing O rings contribute to man made global warming" and then I would of had tons of replies....:laugh:.

Oil change went OK. The dealer gave me the wrong air filter, so I had to go back with the old one and get the right one :nunu:.

Cleaned and brushed everything, tomorrow I compress air blow, re-check all the linkages , look (again) for cracks and loose bolts and then lube everything before all the skin goes back on. There was also an electrical connector that was unplugged, will have to figure that out :think:. Did the antifreeze and fuel filter last year, after all this happens I should be good to go.

It know all such things are hard the 1st time, but, :flag_of_truce:. As for the Kubota engineers and this mesh reservoir strain filter: :rocket:.

Pete (not liking the 11 emoticon limit here either...)
 

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I feel your pain about changing hydro fluid and changing/cleaning filters and screens. My homemade waste oil tank is as low as it gets and my homemade funnel isn't deep enough to keep the oil from overflowing the funnel onto the tank and everywhere else it can find its way to go. On my last 200-hour service I went through 2.5 rolls of shop towels plus oil-dry cleaning up that mess followed by paint thinner. I need to find a way to my 4200 higher in the air than what my jack stands can do for me.
 

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That's quite a story Pete!
 

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Whew, I am glad you survived. Sometimes the simplest tasks aren't so simple. But it should all go a lot smoother the next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Brain, my day is made, tnx.

All others, tnx for the :empathy:. Yes, next time will be much faster if I can remember it all. I'm thinking I'll start a maintenance log for the B21 (have one for the 4520) and will make some notes in it for 4-5 years from now. Another good reason for maintenance logs.

Other lesson re-learned for me: Check any work you have someone else do.

Pete

UPDATE: Had a TBN user check his B21, so now I know I've got the screen back in there correctly. Yeah!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What was I thinking, no pix? :slap-yourself-emoti Here's a bad cell phone pix of the setup.

Pete
 

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You about wore me out just reading what you had to go through. Please tell me it will be easier to change out the hydro on my JD 3520 than it was on your Kubota!! Please.......????? I'll be doing mine soon.
 

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What made the change out a pain was that the reservoir screen filter was behind a hydraulic line and was very hard to see and get to. A lot of the work was totaly by feel not sight. There was also confusion about where things were due to the drawings in the manual and the fact that things that should have been removed before were untouched. Where there should have been signs of wear, all I saw was "factory paint new".

Don't know about your 3520, but on my 4520 I've looked and it's a lot clearer where things are and they are easier to get to. As randy pointed out, the 1st time you do something it takes a while. It took me a long time to get the backhoe off and back on the tractor the 1st time, now it's a few minutes.

The only other lesson here is look at things very carefully before disassemble. Because the screen was hard to see and had a lot of dirt around it, it was hard to see exactly how it was positioned. If I had had air in the garage, I would have blown the debris away. But by the time I realized it was a mess, the machine was drained and I could not move it to my air compressor at the house. Hard to see due to cramped quarters, and the hydro line in front of everything didn't help either.

Air for the garage is next project after I change my fuel lines in my 20 year old 318.

Don't let my problems and mistakes put you off from the task! Besides, there are lots of people here who have 3x20s and can help.

Pete
 

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You about wore me out just reading what you had to go through. Please tell me it will be easier to change out the hydro on my JD 3520 than it was on your Kubota!! Please.......????? I'll be doing mine soon.
The oil swap in a 3520 is easy peasy!
I found that with 2 - 3.5 Gallon buckets you can do it with only a tablespoon of oil spillage :good2:
And then have nice clean oil for less expensive things like wood splitters and chain cases! (Assuming your doing the 100 hr change)
 

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I've looked things over several times, kinda go through the steps mentally and looks fairly straight forward on the 3520. Seems to be something that needs doing when not in a hurry and able to pay close attention to what came off of what and how.
 

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Sorry for reviving a VERY old thread but it's one of the first Google results so I figure I should add some flavor to the post.

I just finished changing my engine oil/filter, hydraulic oil plus filters (x2), fuel filter.. as well as the headlights but that's not important. The whole process too around 3 hrs. A good chunk of that time was spent waiting for oil to drain, or oil to fill up the reservoir. Of note: I have the benefit of a lift/hoist which made removing the hydro filters quite simple. It also allowed me to remove most of the fluid from all of the cylinders as well since I could prop up the bucket/boom/etc. with a transmission jack, tie back the corresponding hydraulic control stick, and slowly lower the tractor which would extend and/or compress the hydraulic piston and push the fluid into the reservoir (and out the drain plug into my pan).

I used three 15 liter (4 gallon) oil pans to capture all of the oil, leaving only a tiny drip on the concrete floor when I swapped out pans.

Overall, for me, it was a very simple process that resembled an oil change on most any truck and/or full size SUV. If you're not concerned with getting all of the oil out of the lines and hydraulic pistons then this should still take the same or less time even without a lift. I do, however, recommend that you raise the tractor up as high as possible with the bucket and backhoe legs, then place 4 jack stands under the tractor, so that you have enough room underneath to work.

Filters Used:
PH3593A for the Engine Oil
PH3682 for the HST (behind the left tire)
BT8488 for the HST Reservoir (mounted under the middle of the tractor, immediately in front of the hydraulic oil reservoir)

Oils Used:
4 Litres of Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 for the Engine Oil
~30 Litres of Shell Spirax S3 TLV (Used to be called Shell Donax TD) for the Hydraulic Oil

Tomorrow I'll change out the axle oil but I dont see that being a lengthy process (other than waiting for the 90 weight oil to drain/fill)

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Automotive tire Drinkware Paint Gas Bumper
 
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