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Discussion Starter #1
I want to change my mechanical lift to the hydraulic for the MMM on my 1025r.

I found in JD literature that I need 2 parts kits, LVB26205 and LVB26206 to do this. I assume they will come with instructions, but I would like to know beforehand how big a deal this is to make the change. It's not obvious to me where and how the new hydraulic cylinder even mounts. Also how much if any tear-down will be needed to connect and route hydraulic lines.

Would appreciate any instructions, advice, opinions, etc., about making this change.
 

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The cylinder will end up mounted under the left floor board and the hose gets routed to the other side of the tractor to the loader valve.

You will have to pull the seat and floor board I believe is all so it shouldn't be too bad.
 

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Here's a few pics of the independent lift kit and what you'd need to remove to install it.

IMG_1512.JPG

IMG_1517.JPG

IMG_1520.JPG

Like psrumors stated, the floor board and a few other items need to be removed. Overall, it's a very easy job. Just be aware the assist spring is pretty powerful. Just don't smack yourself in the face with a pair of channel-locks when they slip off the spring during installation.

I wouldn't know anything about how that could happen......:unknown:
 

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I would advise that you strongly consider going with the Independent Hydraulic Lift option rather than just the Hydraulic Lift option.

When I ordered my tractor, I ordered it with the Mechanical Lift. To save a few bucks, I ordered the tractor with the mower deck crated and I would install the lift kit myself. When they delivered the tractor, they delivered the box kits for the Hydraulic Lift kit rather than the Mechanical Lift kit. It saved me a few hundred bucks, so I installed the hydraulic lift and was good to go.

A few weeks of working with the hydraulic lift left me wanting the Independent Lift kit; I was tired of getting hydraulic oil on my hands and on the mower every time I wanted to remove the deck and use the loader. Because of my limited parking space, that meant EVERY time I used my tractor I had to drop either the deck or the loader and had to get hydraulic oil on my hands. I ordered the kits and installed the independent lift just a couple weeks ago. Keep in mind that had I bought the independent lift in the first place, I would have only had to take apart my tractor once.

The independent lift is wonderful compared to just the hydraulic lift and well worth the extra $300. Now removing the deck is just a push of the button with no hose swapping.
 

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Like psrumors stated, the floor board and a few other items need to be removed. Overall, it's a very easy job. Just be aware the assist spring is pretty powerful. Just don't smack yourself in the face with a pair of channel-locks when they slip off the spring during installation.

I wouldn't know anything about how that could happen......:unknown:[/QUOTE]



Just use a muffler spring tool to attach the spring, then you don't have to put your beer down.....::beer:
 

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Just use a muffler spring tool to attach the spring, then you don't have to put your beer down.....:cheers:
Sad part was, I had one......:lol: Guess I had it coming.:laugh:
 

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I would advise that you strongly consider going with the Independent Hydraulic Lift option rather than just the Hydraulic Lift option.

When I ordered my tractor, I ordered it with the Mechanical Lift. To save a few bucks, I ordered the tractor with the mower deck crated and I would install the lift kit myself. When they delivered the tractor, they delivered the box kits for the Hydraulic Lift kit rather than the Mechanical Lift kit. It saved me a few hundred bucks, so I installed the hydraulic lift and was good to go.

A few weeks of working with the hydraulic lift left me wanting the Independent Lift kit; I was tired of getting hydraulic oil on my hands and on the mower every time I wanted to remove the deck and use the loader. Because of my limited parking space, that meant EVERY time I used my tractor I had to drop either the deck or the loader and had to get hydraulic oil on my hands. I ordered the kits and installed the independent lift just a couple weeks ago. Keep in mind that had I bought the independent lift in the first place, I would have only had to take apart my tractor once.

The independent lift is wonderful compared to just the hydraulic lift and well worth the extra $300. Now removing the deck is just a push of the button with no hose swapping.
I do have to agree with this, the independent lift makes everything just that much nicer and the changing of equipment that much easier.

This thread gives you an idea of what is required to do the independent piece. .http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/10569-installing-independent-valve-hose-kit-lvb26207.html
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Many thanks to all of you for the great responses, especially for the pics from dieselshadow and psrumors, and the pdf's from xcopterdoc. I wish JD would make these pdf's available when looking up parts.

BTW, if you have the pdf file for the LVB2607 kit for mechanical to independent lift I'd appreciate if you could post it also. I wasn't really considering going to the independent lift but you guys have me thinking about it now. That part looks a lot worse than just doing the hydraulic, but if I go into it... :crazy: ...that might be the thing to do.

I'll have to give this some more thought. :think:
 

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Unless you have some implement attached to the 3pt while mowing I don't see any need for the hydraulic lift. It actually seems less convenient to me. What am I missing?
 

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Unless you have some implement attached to the 3pt while mowing I don't see any need for the hydraulic lift. It actually seems less convenient to me. What am I missing?
For me, I pull an offset mower that requires the 3pt to be level with the tow arm. Also, I have some rather steep inclines that if the 3pt isn't all the way up (not towing the offset mower) the heavy hitch will drag.

Plus it is just one more item on the tractor to have and to play with. :lol:
 

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Independent Valve and Hose Kit LVB26207 must be used with the Hydraulic Lift Power Kit LVB26205.
Install Hydraulic Lift Power Kit then Independent Valve and Hose Kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Unless you have some implement attached to the 3pt while mowing I don't see any need for the hydraulic lift. It actually seems less convenient to me. What am I missing?
I am tired of trying to keep my manual lift adjusted so the Lock position on the height cam can be used. The whole deck setup on mine was all screwed up when delivered, the dealer only made it worse after 2 tries, so I finally re-did it myself as I documented here with pictures, the second one showing the finished gap -

Adjustment pics

After much work making this setup it had a perfect gap between height cam and rockshaft of 1/8" to allow maximum lift but give the cam room to rotate freely. Was working fine, later removed deck and used a tiller on the 3 point for awhile. When I next put the deck back on, the 1/8" gap was now closed up so that the cam could not be rotated to the lock position.

This is not a reliable setup having the deck lift piggy-backed onto the 3-point lift. Minor variations like this are not a problem with the 3-point, and in fact will not even show up there. But they are critical to the deck-lift side.
 

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I am tired of trying to keep my manual lift adjusted so the Lock position on the height cam can be used. The whole deck setup on mine was all screwed up when delivered, the dealer only made it worse after 2 tries, so I finally re-did it myself as I documented here with pictures, the second one showing the finished gap -

Adjustment pics

After much work making this setup it had a perfect gap between height cam and rockshaft of 1/8" to allow maximum lift but give the cam room to rotate freely. Was working fine, later removed deck and used a tiller on the 3 point for awhile. When I next put the deck back on, the 1/8" gap was now closed up so that the cam could not be rotated to the lock position.

This is not a reliable setup having the deck lift piggy-backed onto the 3-point lift. Minor variations like this are not a problem with the 3-point, and in fact will not even show up there. But they are critical to the deck-lift side.
I could not agree more. I spent 4 hours readjusting my deck again yesterday. What a hassle....left wheel off, left wheel on, left wheel off, left wheel on, left wheel off, left whee on again. This to find the "sweet spot" for the strap adjustment so when the deck was on the gap would not close too much. I don't think it's possible for me to hate a lift system more than this one. Right now I can get it into "lock" and I have 4" of maximum cut height but doubt that the adjustment will hold. Like you I have adjusted this thing and had everything working and then when I put the deck on again it won't go into "lock" position. I'm ready to spend the bucks for the hydraulic lift also which is why this thread caught my eye.

Update: Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered all of the kits I need for the change. I'm looking forward to getting them installed. Thank you psrumors for all of the great information you provided. It will help tremendously.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I could not agree more. I spent 4 hours readjusting my deck again yesterday. What a hassle....left wheel off, left wheel on, left wheel off, left wheel on, left wheel off, left whee on again. This to find the "sweet spot" for the strap adjustment so when the deck was on the gap would not close too much. I don't think it's possible for me to hate a lift system more than this one. Right now I can get it into "lock" and I have 4" of maximum cut height but doubt that the adjustment will hold. Like you I have adjusted this thing and had everything working and then when I put the deck on again it won't go into "lock" position. I'm ready to spend the bucks for the hydraulic lift also which is why this thread caught my eye.

Update: Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered all of the kits I need for the change. I'm looking forward to getting them installed. Thank you psrumors for all of the great information you provided. It will help tremendously.
Yours sounds exactly like mine. Need a quick-change hub on the left rear wheel. :lol:

I called my salesman today that sold me the tractor to see if they might give me a break on the kits for the change to hydraulic lift. He asked why I wanted to change and I told him basically what I have said here. He seemed surprised (?) and asked if he could come and look at the tractor to see what I was talking about. I said how quick can you get here?

He came out and I first explained all that I had done, showed him pictures of the gap I had set the last time I went thru the adjustment procedure, then told him to look at it now. We started the tractor, cycled the lift a few times, then tried turning the knob to the lock position. The first time it actually turned into the lock position although it was tight. Cycled it a few more times and tried it again, this time the cam hit on the side of the rockshaft and would not go into lock position. After that never would go to lock again.

He offered to take it in and see if their in-house tech could figure out anything to do to it. But I wanted to know first if I could get any help on the hydraulic change. He said he would see what he could to and would stress to his superiors that they should help me out because of all the problems I've had, and let me know. We left it at that for now.
 

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Yours sounds exactly like mine. Need a quick-change hub on the left rear wheel. :lol:

I called my salesman today that sold me the tractor to see if they might give me a break on the kits for the change to hydraulic lift. He asked why I wanted to change and I told him basically what I have said here. He seemed surprised (?) and asked if he could come and look at the tractor to see what I was talking about. I said how quick can you get here?

He came out and I first explained all that I had done, showed him pictures of the gap I had set the last time I went thru the adjustment procedure, then told him to look at it now. We started the tractor, cycled the lift a few times, then tried turning the knob to the lock position. The first time it actually turned into the lock position although it was tight. Cycled it a few more times and tried it again, this time the cam hit on the side of the rockshaft and would not go into lock position. After that never would go to lock again.

He offered to take it in and see if their in-house tech could figure out anything to do to it. But I wanted to know first if I could get any help on the hydraulic change. He said he would see what he could to and would stress to his superiors that they should help me out because of all the problems I've had, and let me know. We left it at that for now.
I hope they come through for you with some discount on the kits.:thumbup1gif:
 

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I could not agree more. I spent 4 hours readjusting my deck again yesterday. What a hassle....left wheel off, left wheel on, left wheel off, left wheel on, left wheel off, left whee on again. This to find the "sweet spot" for the strap adjustment so when the deck was on the gap would not close too much. I don't think it's possible for me to hate a lift system more than this one. Right now I can get it into "lock" and I have 4" of maximum cut height but doubt that the adjustment will hold. Like you I have adjusted this thing and had everything working and then when I put the deck on again it won't go into "lock" position. I'm ready to spend the bucks for the hydraulic lift also which is why this thread caught my eye.

Update: Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered all of the kits I need for the change. I'm looking forward to getting them installed. Thank you psrumors for all of the great information you provided. It will help tremendously.
Good luck! It isn't a hard job just takes a little time. Getting a couple of the steel lines in place is one of those jobs that looks impossible then they just kind of fall into place.
 

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No Issues With Mechanical Lift On My 1026R

Guys,

My 1026R is over 2 years old (350+ hours) and I've had no issues with the mechanical (3 pt) lift getting out of adjustment. I install and uninstall my 60D almost weekly.

I did get one nice tip on this BB though. That was to lubricate the mower height adjustment knob linkage with Super lube (purchased from my JD dealer). This is a spray can of
silicone or something like that and I'm really impressed with this stuff. I use it wherever parts do not move freely.

Again, let me stress that my mechanical lift has not given me any problems since I fine-tuned the mower setup (per the thread on this BB) about 2 years ago. My front yard is flat but my backyard is sloped in many directions so I'm always on a side-slope at one time or another. Gravity is always pulling my 240 lb. deck left, right, forward or back yet all my settings stay exactly the same over time.

I love this tractor!
 

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I wonder if there's a part or something that has changed or something effecting only the later tractors. :unknown:
 

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I wonder if there's a part or something that has changed or something effecting only the later tractors. :unknown:
No parts missing in my case. The only thing I can see that may make a difference is parts #15 and #16 have some rotational "slop" in either direction on the keyed shaft. Every part shown in the diagram is there and in the right orientation.


Mower lift linkage.jpg
 
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