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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1026r FILB and I don't like ISO backhoe control pattern. A quick change of the stick and boom hoses will change the pattern but several people have commented there is a flow restrictor and float position that will be reversed when you do this leading to unsatisfactory results. Its a monolithic valve body so you can't physically unbolt each spool section and move them either. BUT you can swap the actual boom and stick spools in the valve body. This is how I went about doing it. Please note I'm just a guy on the internet proceed at your own risk.

A few speed bumps but its fairly easy to do. No special tools required. I would say this is medium skill level stuff. Take your time and ask questions if you are not sure about something.

Clean the valve before you take it apart. You don't want contaminants in the hydro system. Have the necessary oil containment towels, rags (old bath mats work great) etc on your work bench. Took me about 4-5 hours at a leisurely pace and that includes taking pics and trying to figure out if this would work.

ok lets begin...

first consult the JD exploded parts diagrams.
* Text Line Font Auto part

Label all the hoses with tape and magic marker. Note JD numbers the ports from right to left. I did it left to right and the factory marker numbers got me confused. Use some rags to sop up the fluid. I disconnected the Power beyond and return hoses. Didn't want to inadvertently drain the tractor hydro.
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Lay the backhoe down. Drop the stabilizers into a neutral position. Cycle the loader valves and BH valves. You don't want any pressure on the lines.

Remove the top cover to access the linkage and the valve body.

Three bolts (13mm) hold the valve body to the BH frame. An additional 2 bolts need to come off the valve control linkage. The linkage is very finicky to get adjusted nice and smooth after reassembly so take lots of pics so it goes back together correctly. Tighten up the linkage a little bit at a time making sure the spools still move easily. Mine kept binding at first but I eventually figured it out.
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Drain the oil out of the valve by cycling the controls. Then remove the valve and put it on the bench. Bonus points to your man card if you do this in the field and use your loader bucket as a bench haha had to do that in the past on some heavy equipment. :banghead:
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More pics of the linkage.
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Now that the valve body is on the bench. These are the two spools you want to concern yourself with. I labeled them #2 and #5
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You will be transposing these spools. Note the white paint marks in the pic. The boom position has float controls. number 19 in the JD parts diagram. Its the one with the longer spring assembly on the bottom. (the silver things hanging from the bottom of the valve body) The boom float spring retainer system takes I think a 24mm wrench. The stick spring doesn't have a spot for a wrench so you remove the bottom plastic plug and use an Allen wrench. Its a big allen key my metric keys only go up to 10mm. This is maybe a 12mm? A t60 torks will work in a pinch. Carful this is some shade tree mechanic stuff. Don't force it or you can round off the corners of the retainer. You might be able to get a pair of needle nose vice grips on this or take them all off working from the ends to the inside with a standard sized pair of vice grips or a monkey wrench. Any way unscrew the two retainers and pull the spools out the bottom. They should slide out easily.
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The spools pulled out.
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T-60 torx used instead of correct size allen key
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Put the spools into their new CAT/SAE position and re insert into the valve body. Tighten up the spool spring retainers. One gotch to look out for. On the top of the valve body there are covers that retain the oring seal for the spool. It is assembly 17 in the parts diagram. The front cap head screw is SHORTER than the others so the boom spool can go all the way into detent for float. My smaller screw is the rusty one. Its also a different (smaller) sized allen key. Make sure you swap the screws. In my case it went from #5 position to #2.
Auto part Engine Wheel Automotive engine part Metal

I had a hell of a time finding the flow restrictor because the JD parts diagram is not very clear where it goes. Its part #22 in the diagram. I thought it was part number 21 until I pulled it off and had to go hunting for it. Its underneath the bottom right angle port.
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The flow restrictor is just a screw insert that holds a ball bearing retained by a snap ring. Ideally you should remove the snap ring and use the correct spanner wrench to unscrew the insert. I'm fresh out of correct sized spanners so I ground down an old prybar.
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here it is removed
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reinsert it into the bottom port where the new boom position (the big one with float) resides.
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when you reattach the right angle port make sure you don't bottom it out onto the restrictor. Tighten it down till it bottoms out. Then back it off till its in the correct orientation and use two wrenches to snug up the bottom nut. These are made to be swivel ports.

ok hard part is done.
Reattach the control linkage. Attach the control valve to the BH frame. Then swap the boom and stick hoses to their new respective locations. Reattach all the rest of the hoses. Make sure the control linkage is free moving and nothing is binding. This was the longest step for me.

Check everything is tight and reattach your BH power beyond quick couplings to the tractor and start it up.

If you hear the hydro dead head or go into relief or make any weird noises immediately shut it down because you screwed something up :banghead:

Check for any leaking fluid and then enjoy your new BH set up for SAE/CAT pattern.

215 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
pressure relief valve

I took some pics of the pressure relief valve when I had it apart. Part number 7 in the diagram Auto part Automotive engine part Metal

It is definitely adjustable. Both are the same. I did not change anything on them. I may play with them at some point. I have a hydo pressure gage and line but I didn't want to mess with these just yet until I knew the pattern change would work for sure.

I also thought the caps in the middle of the valve were check valves. They look more like a spring loaded flow restrictor. If they are not check valves that would explain why the BH leak down so easily. Its relying on the hydro check valves I think. I didn't have the correct half moon fat driver tip so I improvised. I was also still looking for the flow restrictor at this point.
Auto part Tire Metal Wheel Rim
Auto part Tire Automotive tire Rim Metal

part 21 looks like this. Its some sort of flow restrictor I think. Maybe this keeps it from being too jerky like the cheap trailer mounted BH you see from harbor freight or Northern tool?
Tree Plant Shoe

I gave the BH the cursory once over start up and run. I have not tried to dig with it yet. But the stick speed seems unchanged. 7sec lock to lock. Boom speed is the same as well. Too fast like the factory set it up lol. I can still lift the tractor off its rear wheels with the boom. Float on the boom still works. No hydro foaming, weird noises, or anything out of the ordinary. Looks to be a success. If it ever stops raining I may get out to actualy digging with it.

The only thing I didn't like was the float spool seems to have a different style of O-ring wiper seal at the top of the valve. The part where I was talking about the different length screws. I did not switch this assembly when I changed the spool locations. Probably going to be just fine but if I was to do it again I would swap them. Nothing is leaking but I will keep a close eye for loose fittings etc. I also need to top of my hydro fluid.

475 Posts
Very cool, thanks for the pics and the detailed description:cheers:
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