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A few years ago my 1026R was due for its first 50hr service. I couldn't get the plug out. In fact I stripped it bad. Not wanting the mess with it, thinking this this first service was important, and having a bit of work to do that summer, I had the dealership come get it, service it, and bring it back. Now it's due for its 200hr service and I look under and the same stripped plug is there. Shame on me for not noticing it earlier.

I was worried they had only changed the motor oil but when they looked me up we saw I had paid for a filter and fluid, and then said they probably just drained the hydraulic fluid from the filter without messing with the plug!! I could've done that myself. So question is, is that ok? Can I do an effective hydraulic oil change by just draining it when I remove the fliter?
 

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A few years ago my 1026R was due for its first 50hr service. I couldn't get the plug out. In fact I stripped it bad. Not wanting the mess with it, thinking this this first service was important, and having a bit of work to do that summer, I had the dealership come get it, service it, and bring it back. Now it's due for its 200hr service and I look under and the same stripped plug is there. Shame on me for not noticing it earlier.

I was worried they had only changed the motor oil but when they looked me up we saw I had paid for a filter and fluid, and then said they probably just drained the hydraulic fluid from the filter without messing with the plug!! I could've done that myself. So question is, is that ok? Can I do an effective hydraulic oil change by just draining it when I remove the fliter?
NO!!

Thats why I don't trust anybody and do things myself...they should be embarrassed as heck...Unbelievable.
 

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When you say "stripped it bad" do you mean rounded the head of the plug off? Is so try using a wrench on the flats or a pair of vise grips to lock down on it and try to remove it.
 

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We need pics...you can buy a kit that will remove a rounded-off bolt, and I'm surprised it was that tight in aluminum of all things that it wouldn't come out?
 

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A few years ago my 1026R was due for its first 50hr service. I couldn't get the plug out. In fact I stripped it bad. Not wanting the mess with it, thinking this this first service was important, and having a bit of work to do that summer, I had the dealership come get it, service it, and bring it back. Now it's due for its 200hr service and I look under and the same stripped plug is there. Shame on me for not noticing it earlier.

I was worried they had only changed the motor oil but when they looked me up we saw I had paid for a filter and fluid, and then said they probably just drained the hydraulic fluid from the filter without messing with the plug!! I could've done that myself. So question is, is that ok? Can I do an effective hydraulic oil change by just draining it when I remove the fliter?
If the filter sits higher than the drain plug, then the answer is no. I would fix the stripped out drain plug and then worry about your service coming due. They sell wrenches that can deal with things like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When you pull the strainer out it will empty. FYI.. The drain plug is metric. Use the correct 6point socket.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
So I can drain it without messing with the plug? It's mangled good from trying vice grips. I bought an EZ Out kit but am apprehensive about trying it.
 

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The drain plug should not be in the oil pan that tight. Make sure you are turning it counter clockwise facing it. I have come across drain plugs on cars that were rounded out / mangled and locked on them "really" tight with vice grips to break them loose them replace the plug with a new one.
 

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If your drain plug is damaged that you can't get it out, another way is you can drain the oil when you pull the suction screen. It might be a little messier than pulling the plug, but this should let almost all the hydraulic oil drain from the transmission. Then, you can also clean the screen and magnet(s). Just remove bolt #23 and pull out #24 slightly without totally removing to do initial drain down of the hydraulic oil.




[HR][/HR] Remove and Install Oil Suction Screen


  1. Park the machine safely. (See Parking Safely in Safety Section.)
  2. Remove backhoe, if installed.
  3. CAUTION: Avoid injury! The machine can fall or slip from an unsafe lifting device or supports.
    • Use a safe lifting device rated for the load to be lifted.
    • Lower machine onto jack stands or other stable supports and block wheels before servicing.

      LVAL38341-UN-21AUG12

      A - Left Rear Wheel
      B - Jack stand Location
      [HR][/HR]
    Raise rear of machine, and remove left rear wheel (A).
    [HR][/HR]
  4. Lower machine onto jack stand under left side of transmission (B).
  5. Place a drain pan under left side of transmission. Drain transmission.


  6. LVAL38342-UN-21AUG12

    C - Hose Clamp
    D - Hose Clamp
    E - Hose
    F - Suction Pipe
    G - Lower Manifold
    Raise bottom hose clamp (C), and lower top hose clamp (D) onto hose (E).[HR][/HR]
  7. Remove hose (E) from suction pipe (F) and lower manifold (G).


  8. LVAL38343-UN-21AUG12

    G - Bolt
    H - Lower Manifold
    I - Suction Screen
    Remove bolt (H). securing lower manifold to transmission case.[HR][/HR]
  9. NOTE: If suction screen does not come out with the lower manifold, reach in and remove screen from transmission. Be certain all O-Rings remain on assemblies.
    Remove lower manifold (G) and suction screen (I).
  10. NOTE: Depending upon your machine, you may have one, two, or four magnets in screen.


    LVAL38344-UN-21AUG12

    I - Suction Screen
    J - Magnets
    Clean the suction screen (I). Remove the magnet(s) (J) from the screen. Clean magnet(s) and install into screen.[HR][/HR]


  11. LVAL38345-UN-21AUG12

    G - Lower Manifold
    I - Suction Screen
    Lubricate and install suction screen (I) to lower manifold (G). Make sure screen is fitted straight into elbow to aide proper alignment to transmission opposite side cover.[HR][/HR]
  12. IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Make sure that the free end of the suction screen is aligned and fitted to the socket in the transmission right side cover during assembly. Improper installation could result in crushing of the suction screen and subsequent hydraulic pump failure.
    NOTE: Suction screen must remain perpendicular to lower manifold as shown below for it to align properly into flange area (K) on opposite side of transmission.


    LVAL38346-UN-21AUG12

    H - Bolt
    K - Flange Area
    L - Screen Assembly
    Install suction screen assembly (L) into transmission. Make sure end of screen fits into socket inside transmission right side cover.[HR][/HR]
  13. Install bolt (H). Tighten bolt to 28 N•m (248 lb-in.).
  14. NOTE: If upper suction pipe (F) was removed from hydraulic pump, replace O-ring (M) before installing pipe. Tighten bolts (N) to 11 N·m (97 lb-in.).


    LVAL38752-UN-05OCT12

    C - Lower Clamp
    D - Upper Clamp
    E - Hose
    F - Suction Pipe
    G - Lower Manifold
    M - O-Ring
    N - Bolt
    Install hose (E) onto suction pipe (F) and lower manifold (G). Secure upper with upper clamp (D) and lower clamp (C).[HR][/HR]
  15. Install left wheel onto machine. Tighten wheel bolts to 120 N•m (89 lb-ft).
  16. Raise machine and remove jack stand. Lower machine.
  17. Fill transmission with oil, Check for proper oil level.
KN52281,1003F27-19-20121005​

 

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Take it to someone who has a clue how to remove a damaged drain plug. If the inside threads are okay it shouldn't be a problem.

I have done it many times. Try using a small sharp chizel to spin the base of the plug counter clockwise. Just be careful not to hit the pan.
 

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I keep my broken sockets just for this purpose. When all else fails and the fastener is totally mangled, I MIG weld one onto the head of the bolt, insert a breaker bar and crank. The heat from welding surely helps. The bolt will either come out or shear off. Either result is progress!

Al
 

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I'm confused, the fixing the stripped plug is just a minor issue...Doesn't anyone else have a major problem with the dealer not fixing it? Or more likely to me the OP was charged for a filter and oil and never got it...Its unbelievable to me that any tech would

A) Change the oil without pulling the plug (Yes sure they could have just pulled the magnet strainer, but who would do that?)
B) They didn't fix the stripped plug at the 50 hour change, even if they charged for owner mistake, it still needed to be fixed when they found it!
C) They just ignored the plug and said nothing to the owner. Changed the oil through the filter? That is absurd.

That's what stuns me...:dunno:.

I do not think knowing the folks who post here, any of us would do any of these things...
 

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When the strainer is pulled 99.5 of the fluid comes with it. We are talking the STRAINER NOT THE SPIN ON FILTER!. Do not go to chiseling on the plug! When I see a stripped head on the plug I stop work. Call the customer and ask what they want to do.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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When you pull the strainer out it will empty. FYI.. The drain plug is metric. Use the correct 6point socket.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
IMO.. Yes. Just remove the suction screen and let er flow.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
I like this idea as I'm coming up to my 250 change. I had thought of raising up the front of the tractor a bit along with the rear right side to slide most of the oil back over to the screen opening...

I would have thought with the amount of force OP applied to the various methods of removal that plug would have either stripped out or cracked out the thread boss. That aluminum is pretty soft and should have given in long ago to a steel bolt...?
'
 

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I'm confused, the fixing the stripped plug is just a minor issue...Doesn't anyone else have a major problem with the dealer not fixing it? Or more likely to me the OP was charged for a filter and oil and never got it...Its unbelievable to me that any tech would

A) Change the oil without pulling the plug (Yes sure they could have just pulled the magnet strainer, but who would do that?)
B) They didn't fix the stripped plug at the 50 hour change, even if they charged for owner mistake, it still needed to be fixed when they found it!
C) They just ignored the plug and said nothing to the owner. Changed the oil through the filter? That is absurd.

That's what stuns me...:dunno:.

I do not think knowing the folks who post here, any of us would do any of these things...

Or worse yet. They removed the plug to drain the fluid. Then just put the mangled plug back in. Maybe because they didn't have a new plug in stock.

If it was my tractor and mistake. I would have told the shop to note the damaged plug on my work order. Then made sure they had a new replacement plug in stock and committed to said work order. Not just hope that the tech found it and did the right thing.
 

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I'm confused by this thread...that plug should easily be removed with a stripped bolt extractor and replaced with a new one.

with one of these:
 

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Certainly you can drain the box by pulling the suction strainer... And if I were King :laugh: I'd have D°mn sure made that foolish suction hose LONGER by making the suction pipe SHORTER (higher up the gearbox) imparting enough flex to get it off and on easily (length isnt a problem - its a suction hose)- at least more easily that the typical spinal laminectomy!!:gaah:
AS it is I have to lube it up, telescope it up the pipe and rethread on the screen flange - theres a better way!!
 

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Certainly you can drain the box by pulling the suction strainer... And if I were King :laugh: I'd have D°mn sure made that foolish suction hose LONGER by making the suction pipe SHORTER (higher up the gearbox) imparting enough flex to get it off and on easily (length isnt a problem - its a suction hose)- at least more easily that the typical spinal laminectomy!!:gaah:
AS it is I have to lube it up, telescope it up the pipe and rethread on the screen flange - theres a better way!!
What do you lube it with ? I wouldn't mind trying that but concerned lube would contaminate hydro oil.
 
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