Green Tractor Talk banner

Changing tire width with wheel weights......

6886 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Caledon Hills
When i first got my tractor I switched the outer rim to give me 2 more inches of width on each side. I then added (2) 110 pound weights tot he inside of the rim and put everything back on. I have been out tilling and my tires are running over the same track as they run the edge of what I till with the 673 and its packing down the ground more than needed.

I want to move them back to stock so the tiller will sit outside the tire tracks rather than right on the edge. Should I attempt to keep the center of the rim on the tractor with the weights and just move the outside rim and tire, or should I remove the complete rim, the weights, then adjust, and replace everything?
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
I am going to try this and see how it goes. Worse case I will have to remove the weights and hub...
Assuming your tires are not filled, I would leave the hubs and weights on the tractor.
Well, I did it, by myself. Not sure why changing tires is so dangerous to me. This time a bur from the hub went in like a needle under the cuticle on my pinky finger and it tore a 1/2 inch open. :empathy3: No stitches this time :thumbup1gif:

So, I jacked up the back of the tractor and used the bucket to keep the rear level. I had 2 small moving roller boards that allowed me to turn the tire in order to remove them. The pictures suck as I was trying to hold the tire and camera at the same time. Once I rotated the tire about 8 inches it allowed me to pull it out over the hub. I did the same thing to put the tire back on.

I started out at 71" wide and ended up at 66". That should be perfect as the tiller will not ride on the tire tracks and should dig a bit more. 66" is stock for a 4x20 with Ag's.


Trust me, I was thinking about jack stands and how to use a second or third jack. Due to the height I had to raise it to and the limited items to lift on that were not in the way, I was stuck. I had about 800 pounds of Iron in the bucket to keep it level on the ground, but it sucked.

You have a very valid point and it was thought about. I would not suggest anyone do it how I did as safety was not first.

I hear ya on the old plastic chrome. I have built a few SEMA show cars and each one has my DNA somwhere on it..... The metal under the dash on cars is never cut clean and always gets me....
I love the weights on the inside. The good part to me is that they are not sticking out farther than the tire and they look better. The only con I can think of would be that it would be harder to take one off if I wanted to remove the weights, but I never will.

The PTO lever you see is to shift between 540 and e540. The normal on and off switch is inside the cab. I am unsure why they did it this way, but it works out well as I always decide what I am using when I hook up the implement.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.